gundee

Don't know if this was posted yet. $225K. Would only be worth $120K max to me. Just can't go that much. Way to many other cars on my list I would like. http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/1907-Nissan-Fairlady Z 432-2.0 Liter Inline DOHC 6-Cylinder

Came from Nissan Motorsports catalog a very long time ago. They are no longer available as far as I know. Try Japan or Australia for a JDM origional. Not likely to find one however. Just replicas.

This is the version I have. I used to have 2 of these but sold one on ebay several years ago unfortunately.

My 2/72 build did the same thing at the exact same spot. In my case the radiator had the core replaced as the origional was plugged up too bad to flush. A while after I got it back this happened so it could have been done poorly at the radiator shop. I took it back and they repaired it and never a problem after that. Over 20 years ago now.

So once tightened are you saying the lock pin is still necessary or not necessary?

I never considered brake and acceleration. I was thinking the up and down movement of the strut. The spindle cannot be solid as I see it. Some rotation is necessary as the arc of motion would require that. Is the lock pin required to only rotate inside the rubber bushing inner sleeves?

I am not sure why that lock pin is installed as well. I always thought it was to prevent the spindle from rotating in the strut housing.

2 more days. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-14/

Use Duct Seal. Best stuff ever. All electricians, plumbers and HVAC use it to seal penetrations. Never hardens. A 1 pound block will last forever. You will use it around the house too. Example here. https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-DS-110N-1-Pound-Compound/dp/B000BO8XD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472663530&sr=8-2&keywords=duct+seal

I do not see where JDMWerks lists Vogtland for the 240Z anymore. Who knows what anyone recieved. I may take a chance if they relist them.

Did you disconnect the tie rod end as well as the T/C rod? I did mine that way. Having the car on jackstands under the frame rails, the jack is now free to lift the strut back in to place. Once the top 3 nuts are installed you can then tighten the shock nut. Then bolt up the tie rod and T/C rod while compressing the strut with the jack under the control arm. Makes the job pretty easy.

I have been thinking about the same thing. I just don't enjoy driving it as much as I did. The main reason is everybody is in a hurry and not looking where they are driving. Somebody is always tailgating me. Its driving me nuts. This is why I only drive the Z less than 1,000 miles a year. More like 500 miles lately. I have had a lot of close calls recently just with my daily driver. At least daily drivers are easy to replace.

You mean like looking at a cell phone perhaps? I would have to have been restrained from hurting somebody.

I was going to say the same thing. I would cross that work off my list and not bother. IMO.

A very nice example from what I see. Ending soon. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-9/

$21,100 Hope you get more though. Good luck to you.

This is my install result according to the diagram. I wanted to do it this way so the tach got the same signal as origional so no issues would develop.

My 72 tach works good following this diagram. If this helps. Of course I am using the 1.5 ohm coil with ballast resistor.

What I am saying is, yes the 280Z had longer and heavier oem rate springs so they would be different than the 240Z. But the Design was the same for both. Not different.

The photos in post 20 show both springs with 9 coils each. The photos in post 32 show 11 coils front and 9 coils rear. Seems odd. I don't get what they are doing on each set.