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Found 5 results

  1. So, let me start off by saying that classiczcars.com is by far the most helpful, accurate Z Car website by far. Thanks to a write up by BlueisNow, I was easily able to swap the internals from a 280z tach into a 240z tach and now my tach reads PERFECTLY! Big up to the man like that.. So, now that I've swapped it, the backlighting will not turn on, neither will the blinker lights. Any of you fine gentlemen ever experienced this before? Thanks for reading, C
  2. My son has a 1973 240z with stock ignition, weber 40's and headers. We have purchased a MSD 6AL, Blaster 2 coil, and 1979 280Zx e12-80 distributor Does anyone have a good wiring diagram to use? After looking at the directions and searching the internet there seems to be a few ways to do this and we would like the Tach to work. It sounds like some folks use the 8920 tach adapter and some don't. Any help would be appreciated before we tackle the job. Thank you. Eric
  3. I am in information overload here and I am looking for setups that have worked for others. I have searched and searched and with all the info out there on all the Z sites I can't determine what actually worked under what circumstances. I mean seriously, you can prove and then disprove the theory of relativity within a post or two in some of these threads. The short of it is that I am in the process of connecting an MSD 6AL with MSD Coil to a 280ZX Distrubutor in a '72 240Z with the original tachometer. The more complete version: I recently picked up a somewhat used Rebello 3.2L with triple Mikunis and have already put it in place... along with replacing the entire driveline... ACT Clutch, T-5, STi R180 LSD, Wolf Creek Halfshafts. The ZX ignition module was not being used in the previous owners setup and it was running the MSD instead. The wiring for the MSD seems pretty straight forward... because there isn't a module the green/purple goes straight to the dizzy which is wired for it. The coil is straight forward. I "think" I need the 8920 Tach Adapter... but in a thread somewhere somebody was swearing up and down they were using the 8910... and then there is the 8910EIS. And in a few spots people are saying 8610, which MUST be a typo because that's CSB crank trigger kit. I'm pretty certain I will need one, but which? I remove the ballast right? Where do those wires end up? Aren't they going to the tach? Is this where the Adapter comes into play? Also, what is this about the ignition signal running through the Tach and if a wire somewhere is disconnected it won't start? I plan to connect the MSD up tomorrow and fire this baby up with or without the Tach, I just want to know that a solution is on the way. I've actually got a brand new Mallory Uni Lite in a box that will eventually find it's way on this motor, but I want to prove the engine works in this car with it's last known good setup before I start swapping parts. Thanks!
  4. Hey amigos, So, I've been trying to go through the car (a '78 280z Black Pearl) bit by bit to work out the electrical bugs (got the horn and the hi-beams working) and now I'm moving on to the tach. Since I acquired the car last September, it hasn't worked and has stayed frozen at 700 rpm. I've scoured the forum and found mostly things to do with 240z tachs, compatibility problems with aftermarket coils (mine is stock) and one thread that suggested a frozen tach was not wiring-related, but a failure in the tach itself instead. I've checked the connections at the back of the tach and they all seem clean and intact. I've also cleaned the contacts for the wires that connect to the coil. Here's my question (in 2 parts): Is the frozen needle a sign of a burned out board in the tach and thus the whole unit needs to be replaced/rebuilt, or could a wiring issue cause this? I'm hesitant to attempt to pull the tach if I don't need to because I have a dash cap and it's pretty tight up front. The second part of my question: can anyone tell me which wires to chase/test or where to start? I'm pretty new to Datsuns and haven't done much electrical work on cars. The mechanical stuff, plenty, but I'm kind of a rookie in the electrical department. I do have the FSM for the car, but the electrical section is pretty overwhelming. Many, many thanks in advance! - Paul
  5. This has happened at 50 MPH and when slowing down at a redlight. The tach goes crazy and then the car quits. If the car is moving, it restarts itself.... when I slow down for a redlight and it quits, I am able to restart the car and continue on. I have been told this means the Ignition Module is dying. Do ya'll agree? If so where can I get an Ignition Module for a 1977 280Z Coupe, base model. Thanks for any help Tommy 678-763-6939 jthill3@att.net
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