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882993md

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882993md last won the day on February 19

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About 882993md

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    Rockville, MD

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  1. Ok thank you. I’ll give that a try. Howard
  2. Hi, My plastic choke cable sheath is broken. The cable inside is fine. Does anyone have any suggestions for alternative replacement sheath? All the Z car parts houses sell cable and sheath together which I don’t need (and is expensive). Thank you. Howard 1974 260z
  3. Hi, What do I do with the metal cylinder that came with my new throttle linkage boot? Howard ’74 260z
  4. 882993md

    Speedometer cable can't reach shaft on gauge

    It seems that’s what happened as there is a kink or split in the jacket. I ordered a replacement. Howard
  5. Would anyone know the screw size? I’ve bought so many bags of screws that wont work I can start my own screw store. Thank you. Howard 74 260z
  6. Hi everyone: I thought my speedometer was broken so I removed it from the dash in anticipation of having it sent out for repair. I spun the drive shaft on the back of the gauge and it worked perfectly. So I thought maybe the speedometer cable was broken and I tested by spinning it and it and saw the other end spin just fine. I then realized that the square shaped head that goes into the slot on the back of the gauge was actually not long enough slot into the back of the gauge. I tried pulling on it with needle nose pliers but I can't get the cable to extend out any further. It's a steel cable so I don't think it shrunk any. I can't think of any other any other way to remedy this than to bite he bullet and order a new cable? Howard 1974 260z
  7. I did bump the pedal and the idle increased by a couple hundred rpm when sitting at a light. I reached down and pulled on the pedal and it moved towards me (maybe 1/16th of an inch?) and the idle returned to normal. I see some slop in that plastic spherical bearing, but I can’t see anyway of replacing it. Howard
  8. SOLVED!!! (And Happy Easter!) I just came back from a 30 minute drive and no more idle surge of any kind. I don’t know if it was the vacuum leak or the floppy unsecured throttle rod (or a combination of both) but the car is a pleasure to drive. I pulled plug 2 and 5 and if wondering if someone may provide feedback. I’m at 2 1/2 turns mixture on both carbs. Howard
  9. Hi everyone: I haven’t had a chance to drive the car due to busy work schedule. However I did take some time to look at the mechanical parts of the throttle links. I checked both throttle return spring‘s on the SU’s and they are new and are very strong. The only thing I could think of is something is mechanically preventing the butterfly’s from returning to resting position, or unwanted air is entering the system. I did find missing pieces on the throttle arm. I believe there should be a spring, washer, and cotter pin? It was mentioned that a vacuum leak may be the cause of the surge to 3000 or 4000 RPM. I don’t have that many vacuum lines on my system. I have new lines coming off the brake booster to the balance pipe. I double checked those connections and they are good and tight. I have the vacuum line from the vacuum advance to the front carb. Hose is in great shape and connections are tight. Finally I have the heater control flap line also going to the front carb. I checked that and found the end had split. Apparently this tube is too small of a diameter to go on that carb. vacuum nipple. I have capped off that nipple for now. I’m going to run to the store for a spring and washer and cotter pin then take her out for another test run. I also turned the mixture screws up back to 2 1/2 turns each. When I was trying to set the the mixture it was about 30° outside. Now that we have some 60° weather the car started easily at 2 1/2 turns. I cleaned the spark plugs and once I have the above parts installed I’ll drive and report back with results in a few hours. Howard
  10. Thank you I'll try this tomorrow Howard
  11. I'll try it tomorrow and report bank Howard
  12. Hi: I've been driving my car and adjusting the jets and checking the spark plugs after my first attempt at tuning the 3 screw SU's. When shifting gears the RPM will sometimes not drop and I have to blip the throttle to get it to go down. I have my idle set at ~750 rpm and timing at 10 degrees. My plugs show I'm running very rich and I'm four turns down on the mixture for each carb. Would the stuck/surging idle be a mixture issue, or would that be a mechanical possibility somewhere in the throttle chain? I did sync the carburetors at idle and at 3,000 rpm. Thank you. Howard '74 260z
  13. I used the clear tube on the rear carb to check the fuel height and it seems I'm actually a little high by 1.5-2mm (I didn't bother adjusting the float at this time). I started the car with choke and the rear carb was backfiring until the car warmed up and I synced them using the (snail type) synchronizer. At roughly 1,040 rpm both carbs were synced to the 12 mark. I tried to get the rpm down to 750 but then the carbs would go out of sync with the front at 5 and the rear at 11. Lift the rear pin-slight decrease in idle to approximately 950rpm Lift the front pin-immediate stall Both jet adjusting nuts at 2.5 turns. I checked plugs 2 and 5 and both were black. I cleaned them but forgot to check them again before calling it the day. I will check tomorrow. Howard
  14. Crazy busy last few days no time to work on the car until today. I did spray carb cleaner on both throttle shaft bushing and no change in engine rpm. Howard
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