AZ-240z

Couple of question for the experts about this car. Picture #230 in the auction shows a very early oil pan. This was the pan that was susceptible to cracking from vibration which required a brazed patch reinforcement. Does anyone know when this pan was superseded with the newer design? An 8/70 car sounds a little too contemporary for this pan change. Also, there was a question as to whether this should be a 1970 car as opposed to the auction stated 1971 car. The model year change over usually occurred in august, and this is a 8/70 build. That would tell me that this car could be either a ‘70 or ‘71 model year car. Don’t want to be too nitpiky, but I’m in the “too rough for a 31M mile car” camp.

Picture #2 (below) shows the bottom surfaces (front of car points up)... early type (55415-E4102) on the left, later type (55413 E8301) on the right... Enter “differential insulator” in the search function, and you will find a wealth of information about these insulators. x

Conedodger, I am so very sorry for the loss of your friend. Please trust me when I say that I know how you feel. After turning 78 last week, you and I share very similar life experiences, and, with age, comes the accumulation of life experience ghosts which can be, at times, overwhelming. Thank you for sharing and remember the good.

Jerry, not quite sure what you want to do. The filter housing just pushes on the air pump. is this the filter, or silencer, that you reference? As you can see in the photos, there is a rubber O-ring that will resist pulling off the old silencer. Dan

Randalla, when I needed to get to the gage mounts, I found that removing the heater control panel allowed best access with no damage to glove box liner, or anything else. You will need to remove the radio knobs, and the 3 heater control cables, one on the drivers side and two on the passenger side under dash. When removing the heater control facia panel, the map light will want to fall out and hang by it’s power wire so just unplug it, but be aware that the wire lead is short and can be difficult to fish back out. You can now pull the heater control panel out far enough to get behind the dash gages. I use plenty of rags and masking tape on sharp edges so as not to scratch up the center console or anything else. Let me know if this is helpful. Also, this would be a good time to replace all of the gage light bulbs which you can find at Banzai motorworks if originality is important. Dan

I have a NOS antenna mast but don’t want to screw off the tip for fear of scoring the top mast segment. I can tell you that, with the mast fully extended, there is 13.75” of mast filament exposed from the bottom end of the extended mast. hope this helps.

Nope!

Just wanted to add my .02$ to the conversation, but with no absolutes. As my car was also restored by Pierre in 2002, I was also made aware of a total of 200 proposed VR cars but can’t recall the source of this information. I did find an old clipping in my archives which did reference 200 to corroborate what Chris mentioned, but this obviously is not documented by Nissan or the VR program.

Cast iron black, Jerry.

+ 2 on all of the above. This is mine which must have been judged to be correct at the 2012 ZCON.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-1973-only-Emission-and-Weight-Decal-Sticker/274386640417?hash=item3fe2b7de21:g:dKMAAOSw4CRe1~AX

Bart, the fan and clutch shown by Zkars above, is what came on my series 1 when purchased new. These fans were heavy and often caused premature failure of water pumps. It was fairly common for dealers to switch these out for the later plastic fan and clutch assembly when they became available on later Zs. I have the plastic fan assembly on my car and only put the metal fan on for shows. If you use this metal fan, I would make sure it is well balanced and has the correct resistance in the clutch.

Perfect! Couldn’t have said it any better! For the past 18 years this site has provided me a sanctuary into which I could retreat when ghosts from Viet Nam, or loss of wife, or loss of parents intrude into my life’s thoughts. These experiences are certainly not unique to me, but I always knew I could come here, or to my ongoing Z restoration project, to chase those ghosts temporarily away. I will forever be appreciative of the depth of knowledge of a select few here who have contributed to my restoration project. If I want anxiety or contoversity, I will just turn on CNN or FOX.

Just had to say something. I thought we were about our Classiczcars, not a forum for political biases!

Kats, motorman7, CanTechZ thanks for your clarification. Seems like the collective here as solved another Z mystery, and the auction can proceed for an amazing find.

I have one more observation about the bat car that others may be more knowledgable about. I would rather make my observations here rather than commenting at the auction site so as not to bias prospective bidders with unsubstantiated observations. In photos # 97 - 101 on the auction, I noticed that the rear window defogger electical connector and its sleeve are “straight”, or “in-line” with the wire leads. All of these electrical connectors with their sleeves that I have seen are made with a “90 degree” wire fastener incorporated with these connectors to accommodate the originating location of the defogger wire leads. Would this “straight”connector possibly be particular to ‘69 - ‘70 cars, or is this possibly a purposeful modification? What say you! Dan

I agree with all of 26th-z comments, and that a 5/70 car should not have the air filter flapper snorkel system, which this car does not. Chris, are you saying that you see the air filter flapper snorkel system on this car, or did you mis-speak? I was excited to see all of the original yellow paint markings, the spring tension clamps and not wire clamps on the fuel hose connections to the fuel filter, a very original feature, and the very early master vac decal which no one to my knowledge, other than me, has reproduced, and I haven’t sold any. The hazard flasher switch is also missing the ON-OFF decal. If this car had its original exhaust system, I think it could compete with the Franklin Mint car. Just my take!

Why bend the float arm to compensate for inaccurate readings. If you look closely at the float arm pivot point, you will see a small set screw. This set screw, when loosened, would allow you to change the sweep of the float arm in relation to the pickup contacts thus changing the tank fuel level readings.

Here are some posts from an archived thread started by Kats, whom I consider one of this sites authorities when discussing the S30’s restoration. Dan

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4432194#

I believe you are correct. The left and right pieces go in the driver and passenger foot wells. The T-shapes piece goes under the seat. There should be two of these, one under each seat. The two top right center pieces go behind the seats and under the plastic tool covers. The shape will dictate which side is which. The small piece below those, bottom right center, is a piece that fits in the right rear deck behind the right rear wheel housing. Not sure about the gray piece. Hope this helps. Dan Edit: Do a search for “Jute” and look for Kats posts to find correct orientation of footwell pieces.

Both of the emissions decals that I had reproduced are gold. And the real decals shown that I used to copy are gold. I was not able to find any gold repros, thus my need to make my own.

DannDZ, when I restored my car, I needed the correct emissions decal for my 1/71 car which was imported through Los Angeles I ended up having the correct 71 emissions decals for both car that entered the country through California, and all the other domestic ports of entry. These decal are very correct and have not been offered for sale yet, but would sell to anyone interested. The first picture is a reproduction of the third picture, and the second picture is of both the original and reproduction California decal. Dan