AZ-240z

dspillman, I think I stand corrected. Wanting to confirm that the hood lock machine screws with embossed grade on my car are correct, I’ve done a little research. There are several cars that were sold on Bat that I believe to be stock original or restored to a very high standard, and they all had the hex head JIS machine screws. Still doing some additional exploration and will let you know if I find more proof. Dan

@dspillman, my car is a 1/71 series 1 and am pretty sure the fasteners for my hood latches are correct. Hope this helps. Dan

@DrFeelGood, while we’re talking originality, the rear deck carpet goes up and under the plastic luggage stopper and the screws for the luggage belt mounting brackets mounted on top of the carpet go through the carpet, often done incorrectly. Best of luck with your project and let me know if I can help.L

I think I can help with the carpet pieces for the plastic tool storage covers behind the seats. I am the original owner of a 1/71, hls30-20XXX, car. The original carpet was cut pile, not loop. There have been discussions here when loop and cut pile carpet was used on various models Years. I made my own carpet set copied from original OEM examples. I have included pictures below of those pieces. Dan

Hi Jan, The latch’s on the door and dash take a lot of fiddling to work smoothly. And, the three screws fastening the door hinge to the dash opening also take a tedious amount of adjustments as well. I found that if you tighten those three screws just enough to still allow the hinge to move for slight door adjustments, that helps. Let me know if you need anything else. Dan

Keith, My nos muffler section had a different solid chrome tip, for later style N3300, that was welded onto the 6 1/2” exhaust tubing that extends from the rear of the muffler. So, that tip was removed by grinding the welds, and the new chrome and black tip was spot welded onto that existing 6 1/2” exhaust tubing. There are three spots on the new tip, 2 on the rear of the tip at the 10 and 2 o’clock positions, and 1 on the bottom middle of the tip, where I spot welded the tip on. It’s been so long ago, I’m not sure if I drilled out the old spot welds or just ground them out. Dan

Keith, no, the tailpipe tip is NOS. Dan

Hi Keith, Not sure what you are asking but this is what I have on my 01/71. My center resonator is 20050 N3000, and the rear muffler is 20100 N3300, all appear to be directly interchangeable to the earlier E4100 parts. All parts are NOS and I had everything Jet-Hot coated to match the stock original natural finish. Hope this helps, Keith. Dan

Here is a picture of my 1971 car taken just after purchased new from Thoroughbred Datsun in Tucson. I add this to help clarify the colors of the license plate light as compared to the tail light finisher panels. The license plate light finish is a smooth semigloss finish whereas the tail light panels are painted in a textured, match scratch, finish. The same color paint on different textured finishes will always reflect light differently giving the impression of a different color. Just my opinion!

Gary, thanks for your reply, and would appreciate updates concerning the fan and fan clutch if you decide to go with individual sales. Best of luck with whatever you decide. Dan

SpeedRoo, I’d like to purchase one of your grease reservoirs. Let me know how you’d like payment and I can PM you my Mailing address. Dan

Gary, I am not aware of a test for functionality. It is a matter of resistants created by the clutch when spinning the fan. What are you thinking for a price, and I’ll see if I can find how to test this early fan clutch.

Hi Gary, My parts list shows the fan clutch (ie., assy-fluid coupling) Is: 21082 - E3200 The fan (ie., fan spider [steel] ) Is: 21060 - E3201 Is the clutch assembly functional, and are you looking to sell these? Dan

Hello SpeedRoo, I would be interested in one of your grease reservoirs. Just one question; are these reservoirs solid or are they fabricated to actually hold grease? Also, one of your earlier projects involved replicating the early Yazaki plug wire sets. Is that still a possibility? thanks Roo.

Richard, I have been using Vredestein Sprint Classic 175HR14 88H on my ‘71 series1 Z and they are pretty much a perfect size match to the Bridgestone Super Speed Radial - 20 original tires.

Glad it helps! I had the whole system Jethot coated, except the NOS black and chrome exhaust tip. All of the hangars are also OEM/NOS.

Don’t know if this helps, but here is a photo of the NOS/OEM exhaust system on my 1/71 car to compare with what you find in your search.

Looks like you are using paper masking tape. You might find it easier to go to your paint supplier and find some vinyl tape masking tape that comes in many widths for use on “curved” lines.

Me Too!

Inline, the back is OEM factory silver and in great shape so no need to repaint. The front needed repaint so had the front media blasted and put on 2 coats of 2K hot rod satin black, then 2 coats of the of the 2K clear matte, and waited 30 minutes between all coats to flash. The satin was a little too glossy so the clear matte gave it the perfect matte black finish. Spray max doesn’t make 2k “matte black”. At one time, I did have my local auto paint store mix the silver wheel paint for me to paint a splash pan. That silver nicely approximates the factory silver for the OEM original splash pan color as shown in this picture.

I have this early steel wheel and needed a spare tire to replace my NOS original Superspeed Radial-20 in the spare well for daily driving. So, knowing “matte Black” is the correct shade, and for those burdened with the need for originality, I wanted to share my results compared with my NOS original spare. I used two coats each of the black and clear products as shown. Love the 2K catalyzed paint, which yields a professional, easy to use, finish.

This is from my 1/71 series 1 car. Phillips screw with clear plastic washer.

Thanks bluez!

bluez, you are totally correct. I took the liberty of adding this decal to represent that this grapefruit alternator had been professionally restored. I, also, install the later plastic radiator fan when not showing the car as the original metal fan was prone to water pump failure due to it’s weight, and reproduced the emissions decal that wasn’t available after market in correct form. Please see attached photos.