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differential insulator early one

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I think they might be NLA.

there was a discussion similar to this a couple weeks back.

But I have late cars, maybe someone has some stashed away.

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I was hoping someone might have one left here as a spare or something willing to sell?

Really want to keep it original with a new strap. At least the straps are still sold..

I now welded the old mount together but this will give vibrations. It's just temporary to keep the diff nose in place.

If I can't find the early mount then i will have to look for a solution to insulate the early type mount another way. ?

 

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The one I previously offered is tentatively now slated for use on an early 70 project I’m working on this winter. If I can convince the customer to “upgrade” to the later diff position to straighten the axle geometry, then this isolator will become available, but I won’t know that for a few weeks or months. Maybe not much help, but at least there is some hope.

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How different are they?  Could somebody enlarge or move the holes on a newer one to get it to work correctly in the older application? 

If you have both maybe you could take some measurements and add to your modification program.

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On 8/29/2020 at 7:44 PM, Zed Head said:

How different are they?  Could somebody enlarge or move the holes on a newer one to get it to work correctly in the older application? 

If you have both maybe you could take some measurements and add to your modification program.

I will let it know here if it works. 

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Picture #2 (below) shows the bottom surfaces (front of car points up)... early type (55415-E4102) on the left, later type (55413 E8301) on the right...

Enter “differential insulator” in the search function, and you will find a wealth of information about these

insulators.

S30 Differential - Front Mount Insulators - OE - 240Z early vs late - bottom.jpgx

Edited by AZ-240z

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I remember trying to find an illustration for the diff mount and the transmission mount.  The best I could do was to assume that the mounts go in with the sloped side facing forward.  Like a snow plow or a wedge.  I only found one picture that showed that and had to rationalize that the diff mount would be the same.

It seemed to make sense when I was actually looking at the parts before installing.  Here is the only picture that seems to illustrate that, from 1976.  Nissan calls the transmission mount the rear insulator. 

image.png

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On 8/29/2020 at 7:16 AM, zKars said:

The one I previously offered is tentatively now slated for use on an early 70 project I’m working on this winter. If I can convince the customer to “upgrade” to the later diff position to straighten the axle geometry, then this isolator will become available, but I won’t know that for a few weeks or months. Maybe not much help, but at least there is some hope.

Seems “we” are staying stock so the one I have is off the table. 

Hmmm... I “could” chop the crossmember up and weld it back together with the center “offset” forward, that let’s me use the later isolator....  Done that to standard Z trans x-members to fit the T-5 transmission. Not exactly an invisible modification, but likely workable.

Or,  If it wouldn’t melt the rubber, I could weld/move/adjust the position of the diff mounting holes on a later isolator to let you use it. Very slow welding with rapid cold water immersion every 5 seconds of welding????  

Where there’s a will, there’s a way; and relatives.... 

 

Edited by zKars

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13 hours ago, AZ-240z said:

Picture #2 (below) shows the bottom surfaces (front of car points up)... early type (55415-E4102) on the left, later type (55413 E8301) on the right...

Enter “differential insulator” in the search function, and you will find a wealth of information about these

insulators.

S30 Differential - Front Mount Insulators - OE - 240Z early vs late - bottom.jpgx

 

Are you sure, because my early one, the front of the car is as I pointed in my picture above with the arrow. This drawing also shows that.

So with the later one, which side is pointed towards the FRONT of the car ? 

240early.jpg

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13 hours ago, AZ-240z said:

Picture #2 (below) shows the bottom surfaces (front of car points up)... early type (55415-E4102) on the left, later type (55413 E8301) on the right...

 

My later type is showing part no 55415-N4301 20/08/18 

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7 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I remember trying to find an illustration for the diff mount and the transmission mount.  The best I could do was to assume that the mounts go in with the sloped side facing forward.  Like a snow plow or a wedge.  I only found one picture that showed that and had to rationalize that the diff mount would be the same.

It seemed to make sense when I was actually looking at the parts before installing.  Here is the only picture that seems to illustrate that, from 1976.  Nissan calls the transmission mount the rear insulator. 

 

Yes..  The later diff was placed back due to vibrations problems, as I read. So if you look at below picture you can clearly see the later mount holes showing that, If I have them placed correctly now, which I assume. If not somebody correct me.

 

IMG_20200915_091908_1~2.jpg

IMG_20200915_091922_1~2.jpg

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We did some brainstorming, including heaving the early one remolded, but that would be way to expensive, they will only do it from at least a 1000 pieces. So I decided to modify the later one, back to the early one. I think it worked out. I will test it to make sure, just waiting for the strap to come in first.

I cut the purple, and added to red, so the " slope " is the same, and the holes are on the same spot as the early one. With the purple cut out, you can now put the M12 nut under there.

I could not just simply twist the mount 180 because that would change the angle.. so this was the only way.

Welded the mount with the rubber part of it submerged in some water, so it wouldn't melt..

IMG_20200922_085314.jpg

IMG_20200922_085319.jpg

IMG_20200922_085332_1.jpg

IMG_20200922_085359.jpg

IMG-20200921-WA0014.jpg

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It's in, I did have to shave some more metal of the inside to fit the bolts through and the nut on top like the manual shows.

So it's possible to make the 72 mount to fit like the early one..

IMG_20200924_210707.jpg

IMG_20200924_210716.jpg

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That diff belt looks like a toothed belt.. like a timing belt of a modern car..    The original belt is much  more robust and stiffer! 

Someone sometime..  fell over that belt and thought: Hey lets use it as a diff arrester belt!   It has always been a bad solution to the problem and this is no improvement.. 

BTW my (Rest in peaces) 1972 240z had one and in good condition.) and my early 1971 does not have that at all!   Maybe someone has a better solution for this arrester belt as Nissan calls them?

 

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I’m late to this thread, but when the Z Doc in Roanoke, Virginia was still alive, he had a simple solution for the problem of the early mount being NLA. He said, if you take a Series 2 mount and simply rotate it 180 degrees, it works perfectly as a Series 1 mount. Give it a try and see if that works.

Guy

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On 9/22/2020 at 3:19 AM, bartsscooterservice said:

Welded the mount with the rubber part of it submerged in some water, so it wouldn't melt..

That's a clever trick, I'll have to remember that one.  The mount looks like it will work perfectly.

39 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

 Maybe someone has a better solution for this arrester belt as Nissan calls them?

Sure, it's called the R/T mount, https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html?

But if you want to remain original all you have to do is eliminate the space between the top of the diff housing and the bottom of the arrestor strap.  The last time I did it I used two layers of some old rubber conveyor belt I had on hand, it is only about a 1/2" gap so when you raise the diff into place the arrestor strap is snug against the spacer and there is no room for the diff to jump up and make that clunk.

 

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6 hours ago, Diseazd said:

I’m late to this thread, but when the Z Doc in Roanoke, Virginia was still alive, he had a simple solution for the problem of the early mount being NLA. He said, if you take a Series 2 mount and simply rotate it 180 degrees, it works perfectly as a Series 1 mount. Give it a try and see if that works.

Guy

See my pictures above. You cannot twist the later mount 180. Because it does not line up if you look closely at the picture. And it's also at an angle. 

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6 hours ago, grannyknot said:

That's a clever trick, I'll have to remember that one.  The mount looks like it will work perfectly.

Sure, it's called the R/T mount, https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html?

But if you want to remain original all you have to do is eliminate the space between the top of the diff housing and the bottom of the arrestor strap.  The last time I did it I used two layers of some old rubber conveyor belt I had on hand, it is only about a 1/2" gap so when you raise the diff into place the arrestor strap is snug against the spacer and there is no room for the diff to jump up and make that clunk.

 

Thanks. Yeah it works fine now. Took some modifications.  So it can be done without going with all the hassle of changing the mustache bar etc etc to the later 72 spec

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7 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

That diff belt looks like a toothed belt.. like a timing belt of a modern car..    The original belt is much  more robust and stiffer! 

Someone sometime..  fell over that belt and thought: Hey lets use it as a diff arrester belt!   It has always been a bad solution to the problem and this is no improvement.. 

BTW my (Rest in peaces) 1972 240z had one and in good condition.) and my early 1971 does not have that at all!   Maybe someone has a better solution for this arrester belt as Nissan calls them?

 

Well it's the same dimensions as the old one only a newer material and toothed So it should work Just fine ? I ordered it from the z store...

 

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Late to this and I know you wanted all original but I took my diff in and out about 4 different times trying to get something to work. I had a lot of extra late model parts so I used a later transverse link mount, later mustache bar and a RT Mount...but I had to add a bracket to the RT Mount towards the back so the bushing wouldn’t fall directly on top of the front yoke of the diff. Welded a piece of channel on the RT Mount and moved the bushing back about 3 inches and all is well. I also had the late model drive shaft so I’m hoping that makes up the difference. 

Edited by Clay C
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On 9/26/2020 at 3:01 AM, Clay C said:

Late to this and I know you wanted all original but I took my diff in and out about 4 different times trying to get something to work. I had a lot of extra late model parts so I used a later transverse link mount, later mustache bar and a RT Mount...but I had to add a bracket to the RT Mount towards the back so the bushing wouldn’t fall directly on top of the front yoke of the diff. Welded a piece of channel on the RT Mount and moved the bushing back about 3 inches and all is well. I also had the late model drive shaft so I’m hoping that makes up the difference. 

Yeah, basically what you did is go for the 71.8 > spec and add the RT mount. 

I wanted to keep it as original as possible myself.

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