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About Wally

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  • Member ID: 34853

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  • Joined: 10/02/2020

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    lumberton texas
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  1. got in my ultima alternator from oreillys. took it to them to test it....it failed. took it to advance auto and it failed there too. The alternators must be junk. Going to order a new one again. hopefully 3rd time is the charm.
  2. thanks. i have one of these
  3. Got in a new alternator. Got it from Oreillys. It an upgraded 280zx model so it has internal regulator, but that is fine. a few other members here said this would work fine on older models like mine. i have a new t connector somewhere, i've also seen this called a "pigtail" somewhere else. Anyway, there is another cable connection that goes on the back of the alternator for something. Looks to be a single wire connection. Would anyone know what that connector is called or who sells one, what its for? cant seem to find one anywhere. I dont remember this being hooked up on old OEM alternator when i first got my car. Maybe its not needed? found an article on another site: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html i am working through this, got a lot of detailed information there. someone knows there stuff for sure. btw, fyi, ZCD responded with a return label to refund damaged alternator i bought there.
  4. here is video. You can see me easily pushing this in and it freely pops out when i move my finger. Looks like it working, at least now. Good idea about just the nut and loctite. I have my thread kit out too...may see if i can add a couple threads to the bolt. IMG_3106.MOV
  5. yeah. i know. there was not enough threads on the rod to allow me to back off both of them on that one side. I put it like this to see if it might work and keep me from getting another rod or trying to thread the rod more. It appears to still work even though its admittedly jerry rigged.
  6. heres an image of it attached. i took it off and took a photo too. that round "rubber cap" is not what i thought. it is metal and i think supposed to be there like that. So, looks like all is well.
  7. Its a Beck Arnley, whatever that is. Here is an image of it. I am going to take it back of and look back inside....better safe than sorry
  8. my only real concern is when i put this in all tightened up, something happened. It felt like the rod broke through that inset, round black cup a little (hope that makes sense?) It only went back a little though and not the whole way and it is moving good. Not sure if i should take it back off to re-inspect.
  9. just got new clutch cylinder in. I dont see any pitting marks, so it should be good. This one looks different than my other. this has on inside a round black cap inset. its right below rod in image attached. i am supposed to take that out or leave it? my other one doesnt have that.
  10. Yep. i emailed them but dont expect anything. I was thinking to get (unless ya'll have another opinion) the 60amp upgraded alternator from motorsports. https://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=12-4068It has an internal regulator with it so wont need the external voltage regulator. I read that using the external voltage regulator was not nearly as good as having an internal one? If that is wrong then yes i would prefer to just by a 60amp OEM type as its only like $50 locally.
  11. thanks for the detailed instructions. They are so clear i think even i can do it 🙂 Had NO idea the spring should be used. it was on the car when i got it....so i just assumed.....
  12. the guy at Advance auto said something internal was bad. He said machine couldnt do a full test because something was shorting out. Guess that is one problem solved
  13. oreillys said alternator failed their tests. Here is a printout of screen. I have to say...i am not overall sure of their test though...maybe i will take it to advance auto to confirm results.
  14. here is a better image of my alternator connected up. The plug you see is the one made for the alternator. I looked at an older post i made on this and i believe i connected everything properly/as suggested. I am a little confused though (to say the least). Per the page of ZCD, in description it says, "the plugs red wire connects to switched 12V and black wire connects to the positive post on the alternator." I have the red wire connected to my yellow wire from my harness...This should be the ignition key on? I have the black wire connected to the white/black stripe wire which i hope is the "12v post (or positive post on alternator)?" On the ZCD page I'm a little unsure if these 2 are connected properly.. I double checked that this alternator is supposed to have an internal regulator thus use the blockoff for the OEM voltage regulator. I just got in the DC clamp ammeter SteveJ suggested. I will try to figure it out and post results of what i can. I dont really want to try and crank it just yet as i am down to my last fusible link and i am sure i will burn it up it i try to crank it now... i guess i will buy a couple more though. i can easily take alternator off and up to oreillys to get a free check on it though and will try to do so later today. Whole point of this alternator was i wanted to upgrade my sound system which includes -2 small speakers up front near where feet go in floorboards and 2 6x9s in rear. I have a nice head unit and a small/medium amplifier. THus, i figured i needed to upgrade from the OEM alternator which i was told was 40amps. Now i am looking it says they are 60amps. Maybe i should just order a OEM alternator if 60 would be enough. Anyone have any thoughts on power consumption and adequacy from the OEM one?
  15. its for my 71 240z. the clutch fork did have the spring attached btw.
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