Wally

i have message this person. no response as of yet. i will update with ETA's and price if he responds

i see. no it wasnt warped. it was in good shape. i think the just machined it down to make sure everything was even and pretty but he said it was in good shape overall. i am thinking that what you said about valves sinking too deep it more likely the culprit. He said earlier today a valve job would make everything 100% but he's already put it all back together, timed it etc. and it gonna charge me to take it apart and put it back. My thought was he shoulda checked the lash pad and valve stuff before putting it together...So i dont think our meeting Monday will be very polite

thanks. This is all over my head a bit. I am not sure whats going on. he did machine the head i know that much. i will drive up there monday and measure the lash pads. He keeps saying there are .120" but i am not sure they are. i thought they were .160". Anyway i here is the place and link i bought them https://zcardepot.com/products/lash-pad-cap-valve-rocker-arm-guide-oem?_pos=1&_sid=0f0a8f018&_ss=r unfortunately it doesnt say what size they are just OEM...

If the lashes aren't "100%" (whatever that means) what could happen? my machinist can't seem to explain the possibility to me

My engine rebuild is killing me....UGG So my machinist just told me the OEM lash pads i ordered were too thick...they are .120" He said he needs about .080" Can anyone help here? Not sure if these are even available. Only thing i saw was https://zcardepot.com/products/isky-valve-cap-lash-pad-custom-racing-cam-l24-l28?_pos=2&_sid=d43713ea7&_ss=r They say .080" for something but i am not sure if they will work with everything else being OEM (not a performance cam) and such thanks

so gloss black on metal and an "wood" some lacquer i assume?

thanks. took everyones advice. lot of penetrating oil. it finally broke free and i got the proper length set now.

from what i see on youtube i am supposed to turn the little nut on the end to extend it out (its not long enough). Can someone confirm this is correct. I put vice grips on it and the wrench wont budge it....it could be its frozen up, just nervous to put too much force. I have broken things previously doing that 🙂

I have 2 steering wheels. I would like to get at least one refreshed like new. I dont think i have the skills to do that and make it look 100%. Any suggestions on who could do this? LIke should i call local carpenters?

good advice. i went after it on one seat. a lot of brushing.... It looks 50% better so far.

Here an image. on the left by finger is what i am talking about. looks dirty all over. I sprayed small section on right with a cleaning product. it looks better or will until it drys.

My seats are not torn or ripped and not brittle or breaking. However, they look like the have dirt all over them. When they are wet with product they look fabulous. When they dry they go back to the dirty/faded look. Anybody have a good product they use on seat to refresh them?

thanks ya'll. The bolt that came with the kit has a 1" spacer built in to it. That might be enough to do the deed.

Would this be correct? I dont have my trim on so i am not sure if something else is supposed to go in this hole or not....the bolt does fit though.

I am just now installing these i bought a while back. the instructions they came with are junk. I was able to determine where everything goes but i ahve 2 concerns. 1. The retraction box goes behind the seat and through the floor pan. Isnt this a pretty weak spot. Did anyone reinfroce it? My pans are in great shape too and it still seems weak. 2. In image 1 you see the bolt that attaches somewhere up in the area of image 2. Normally i would put a nut on something like this....not sure if that is even possile. Has anyone else upgraded and solved these issues? thanks!