AZ-240z

Glad I could help.

I mounted mine in front of the passenger seat and held in place with a ribbon of Velcro which is passed through a hole in the seat foreward support and around the extinguisher. Pull the red Velcro tab and it’s free.

Kats, I have finally found all of the necessary parts for my differential relocation, and wanted to again thank you for helping me find a NOS diff. insulator. below, I wanted to include a picture of my restored mustache bar as I have, again, taken a lesson from you on how this should be done. Thanks again, Kats.

Given the condition of these D-medallions and the rarity of finding a set of these for sale sans entire wheel cover (hubcaps), I would say the price is reasonable. But, as someone so famously said, you can’t put lipstick on a pig, so the hubcaps that these would grace would need to be of equal or better quality or the value would not be realized. Just my opinion.

Mine is also a E3002 and measures 8 3/4" from the shoulder to tip as well.

Daughter came for a visit this weekend and sewed my 6 reproduction seatbelt manuf tags on. Beautiful!

You actually don't have to glue anything. If you are using the stock original style door weatherstrip, the inside, upside down U shaped edge of the weatherstrip fits over the door threshold pinch weld. The welting is then pressed down over this pinch weld, weatherstrip combination which captures the door weatherstriping securely to the car threshold. Hope this helps.

Kats, it's good to hear from you. Interesting that Tetsu was able to fit an E8300/8301 insulator on your car. I would be interested to know which front diff crossmember he used with it, and if he did turn it 180 degrees to line up the mounting holes. Was he able to fit the early composite exhaust hangar? Good find with the NOS E4102. That insulator in NOS condition can no long be found on this side of the pond. Dan

Also, good info on the stock exhaust hangar location. That would be the threaded hole just to the right of the insulator in your picture, above. Not sure what the threaded hole just to the left of the insulator, as pictured, is for, unless there was a dual exhaust setup for other S30 iterations. As luck would have it, I do have that NOS stock steel/rubber composite early exhaust hangar as well. Let the fun begin. Dan

WOW, Namerow, you have exceeded all expectation with your reply. Many thanks. Since posting my inquiry, I have gotten very lucky and have found all of the pieces, used condition so far, to make the conversion from post 7/71 series 2 differential rearward location to the pre 7/71 series 1 forward position. I agree, Namerow, that it "appears" that the later front diff mount insulator (55415-E8300) should Interchange with the earlier insulator, (55415-E4102). The club parts CD shows that the early (55415-E4102) insulator needs to be used in combination with the early diff front mount crossmember (55411-E4100), and do not interchange with the later insulator (55415-E8300) and mount crossmember (55411-E8300). From what I have been able to find, others have tried to use the later insulator to move the diff to the series 1 location and bolt hole locations just didn't quite line up without the need for serious modifications, if that were at all possible. anyway Namerow, you pictures are terrific only to be exceeded by your ability to do searches. Thanks Again, Dan

Sorry to revive an old thread, but have been looking for the impossible which is the early diff front mount insulator, ie., # 55415-E4102. Does anyone have a photo of this insulator and a photo of the later insulator, 55415-E8300? Just wondered if this later insulator could be turned around to work as #55415-E4102. Thoughts?

Manny, you have characterized these re-created tags as "awesome" in the result. As I have just received my order of these tags for my car, I would also add that, as I am aware of the definition of the term, they appear to be a "flawless" re-creation of the original. For those interested in getting the best products for there coveted cars, this is as good as it gets. Thanks 240Ziggy. Dan

Kats, you answer all of my questions, sometimes before I can even ask. The picture above of the correct tag location and orientation is just ------"Perfect". Dan

Thank you 240Ziggy, Mike B, and 26th-z for helping me get it right. Dan

Ziggy, after some soul searching, and inputs from Mike B, could you change my tag order for a total of 6, and make the date code 12 - 1970? Thanks, and let me know if that works for you. Dan

Mike, that is exactly my reasoning for asking the date code question, so thanks for your thoughts. I seem to remember earlier date code discussions used the same reasoning, and even two month before car production dates would not be considered unreasonable for parts codes. Dan

Thanks for doing this, Ziggy, but I have a question that you, or someone here may help me with. I believe my car had 6 tags in total, one on each lap belt, and a third on each shoulder harness. Mike Bs' picture above also shows a shoulder harness tag. Your offer is for a "set" of 4 tags, but didn't all 240zs come with 6? That being said, could you do 6 tags for me and I will gladly pay the pricing that you have established? I am also torn between using a date code of "12-1970" for my 1/71 production car instead of "1-1971" as it was said to have been made in the first half of January. Since I don't have the original tags on my car to confirm the actual date, any thoughts, anyone? Dan

Ziggy, here is a photo of a 1971 tag, but the month stamp is no longer visible. But, this would confirm that a 1/1971 tag would be the same format as the ones you are making.

Ziggy, looks like you really nailed it, from the correct font to accurate sizing and fabric texture. Any chance that you could do a set of 4 for me with a date of 1 - 1971? I am currently working on reproducing the early master vac decal, so I can definitely attest to the work involved in doing these right. Dan

Thanks Mike B. I would welcome a distraction right now. The shop I use is 100 miles away in Tucson, so, emails and phone calls would take care of everything in the reproduction process except the final choice of decal material. That's a match I would do personally at the shop. There are always corrections that must be addresses but that is challenge of an authentic reproduction. I'm sure zingy can do a fine job, but, should he not be able to get these done for whatever reason, I would be happy to give it a try. Dan

7TooZ, Captain Obvious, Zup, Jfa.series1, Your concern and best wishes for my recovery is very much appreciated. It is heartening to occasionally be reminded that this is not only a society of Z enthusiasts, but, also, of just real good people. Dan

Mike, I could give this a try, but would need a few things. 1. A high resolution picture taken as directly head on as possible to reduce distortion. 2. The best discription possible of the silver color and gloss level as this is the most difficult part of reproducing these decals for greatest authenticity. Even mailing samples back and forth may be worth the effort. let me know. Dan

Thanks! Took a header down my favorite hiking trail by catching my toe on a boulder and landing hard, and 2 feet down, on my right knee. That jammed right femur into pelvis causing multiple fractures. " Ouch" doesn't begin to describe the pain.

I just finished reproducing a '71 emissions decal for my car. It has the part number on the lower left corner and was done on gold vinyl decal material. I would be willing to see if I could have this decal reproduced, but won't be able to do any thing for a few week as I just fractured my pelvis in three places. Here is a picture of this decal on my car.

Thanks, Jim D. Sharing our all-too-infrequent successes is what this society of originalists is all about for me. As far as actually driving my car, I'm afraid a severe case of paranoia and OCD controls my Z driving habits these days. I do take it out on weekends though for a 60 mile tour of Phoenix freeways when they are pretty quiet to renew the spirits and keeps things in good operating condition. Dan