What's the most needed Z part that's currently NLA?

[Namerow]

I thought that our CZCC members might like to contribute their thoughts here.  Who knows?  We might inspire someone out there to start making some of these items.

My nomination would be:

Differential Mount Insulator for the early-design cars with angled rear halfshafts (Nissan PN 55415 E4102)

This part was used up until 71-06, so it was installed on about 30,000 Z's.  If 5% of those cars are still in running or restorable condition, that would mean there's a ready market for perhaps 1,000 of these early-style diff mounts.  To the best of my knowledge, there's no way that any of the later-style mounts can be modified to fit.  Typical owner solutions seem to be either:

• replace all of the diff carrier pieces with conveniently-available, newer-design parts (expensive, and not correct for a proper restoration)
   
• ignore it and pretend that running with a worn-out original mount isn't a problem

Given that the metal parts are usually quite salvageable, perhaps all that's required to restore the mount is for someone to reproduce the rubber core.  With a new core, it would be a fairly simple matter to burn out the worn-out original, clean up the metal, and then glue a new core (should be fine, given that the bonding area is big and the joint wouldn't experience any shear loads -- just compression/tension).

 

  Early-style mount on the top     Early-style mount on the left

(apologies for not being able to provide photo credits)

Edited April 21, 2020 by Namerow
1st edit: a few added thoughts

[CanTechZ]

Replaced that diff mount on my 1970 in 1998 and still have the old part. I have contacts in eastern Europe that produces rubber and rubber backed steel parts. When I get time, I will try to make a drawing off my old parts and look into making these. I paid $37.44 in 1998, it will be hard to meet that price.

 

 

[zKars]

AM I crazy? (Ok, we all know the answer to that, but listen to me for a sec.)

If I’m reading the original drawing thing, the diff moves back 35mm in the new “better” configuration. Like an 1-3/8 or better. Since the big steel cross member is not moving, the center M10 stud on the isolator has to be in the same spot, so it must be the two holes that bolt the isolator to the diff that are offset forward 35mm. Sure doesn’t look like that much when you compare the two isolators side by each. Or are you bolting through the “other” pair of holes on the diff to make up this massive difference?

Or is the mount rotated one vs the other so the holes are at the front or rear of the cross member? That must be it...

Clue me in!

 

Edited April 19, 2020 by zKars

[Gav240z]

I'm not sure I see the merit in restoring to include the defective diff position myself. Although I understand wanting to be "original". But for me it's like keeping the oiler bar when they later had the internally oiled cam design which was better and for the most part both won't be seen once installed..

In terms of hard to find parts.

Ashtray's (early ones) because they were made of bakerlite plastic and so no reproduction exists. 1 drop and they shatter into a bajillion bits.

I also think the original sound deadening material cut to appropriate shapes would be great. (I think material still exists but you gotta cut to spec).

Original Jute underlay and loop pile carpets are another..(still haven't found great sources for those).

Then rear 1/4 panels, roof skins and rear valance sections would really kick things along.

[S30Driver]

Hatch & door window glass.   Getting difficult to find in acceptable to pristine condition.

[Namerow]

29 minutes ago, zKars said:

If I’m reading the original drawing thing, the diff moves back 35mm in the new “better” configuration. Like an 1-3/8 or better. Since the big steel cross member is not moving, the center M10 stud on the isolator has to be in the same spot, so it must be the two holes that bolt the isolator to the diff that are offset forward 35mm. Sure doesn’t look like that much when you compare the two isolators side by each. Or are you bolting through the “other” pair of holes on the diff to make up this massive difference?

No, you're not crazy (although we should perhaps let your wife comment on this  ).  The answer, I think, lies in the fact that there is also a difference between the 'old' vs. 'new' designs for the diff's front crossmember.  The locations for the bolt holes changed. 

I have never seen anyone produce a proper sketch in plan or elevation view that makes the differences in all of the bolt hole and mount stud locations obvious (and I'm not about to try).  However, I have never heard anyone come up with an easy fix for replacing the early-style front diff mount (and don't forget that this issue has been in play now for about 40 years).

According to my notes, here's what needs to be replaced in order to 'fix' things so that the newer-style mount can be used:

·         Diff Front Crossmember

·         Diff Arrester Belt Brackets (lhs & rhs), bolts, and sleeves  (the design of the belt itself was not changed)

·         Moustache Bar

·         Suspension Lower Transverse Crossmember (new design was dished and bowed outwards towards the rear so as to clear the rear of the diff case)

·         Driveshaft (the S2 driveshaft is 20mm longer)

·         Moustache Bar Rubber Bushings, sleeves & hardware (might not be mandatory, but the PN’s certainly changed)

[Namerow]

1 hour ago, Gav240z said:

Then rear 1/4 panels, roof skins and rear valance sections would really kick things along.

A few of the well-known Z-car parts suppliers offer a rear valence panel that might meet your needs.

However, I recall reading recently that the existing replacement panels aren't 100% accurate in certain details (e.g. shape of the cutout for the exhaust tip).  Maybe that's what you're alluding to when you say that the panel isn't available?

Edited April 19, 2020 by Namerow

[87mj]

Door weather strip.   The Precision version requires you to slam the doors.  Personally, I would like to use my factory welt strips too.

 

[grannyknot]

19 hours ago, zKars said:

Or are you bolting through the “other” pair of holes on the diff to make up this massive difference?

This, 

Roll back up to the drawing at the top of the page and you can see in the later "better" position that the front of the diff is being supported forward of where it is supported on the earlier configuration.

[dutchzcarguy]

On 4/19/2020 at 4:41 PM, Namerow said:

ignore it and pretend that running with a worn-out original mount isn't a problem

I had a laugh..  About 10 years ago it made some noise and i welded a U-type/piece of steel with some rubber IN it around the old diff mount just to get it ready for APK (this is the dutch MOT).  Bought also then a new diff mount.. and guess what… it is still laying around in my garage!  The repair i did still functioning and the last 10 years no problem for the APK!  ?  (I'm to busy with my other cars i guess….)

Don't know if i have the newer part or the older correct ( for my car 2-72) part.. 

EDIT: this should be  "my 2-'71 car!!!  sorry!

Edited April 21, 2020 by dutchzcarguy

[Namerow]

If that's an early-style diff mount and still in as-new condition, it's worth $$$ .   But if it's, "correct for my car 2-72", then it's the new style mount and can be safely left laying around in your garage.

[siteunseen]

Horn pad mount, the hard plastic on the backside of the black pad.  I have mine jimmy rigged but it still falls off.  MSA sales the pad itself but not the locking ring.

From https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08d18/40-3140

Description
This is the genuine, original equipment (OEM) replacement horn pad. The outer ring and word "Datsun" are chrome and the background is satin black. This is the pad only and does not include the plastic ring that holds the pad in place.