zKars

Just have examples.I can measure something

Here is an example for reference

Probably figured this out already, but M8x1.25.

Go LED headlights, reduces the current requirements to the point where relays are barely required to protect our sensitive old headlight switches. either Dapper OE7’s or LED H4 bulbs in Hella or Bosch (or similar) housings is the way to go. Dapper’s OE7 (and OE5) lights are astoundingly good and look OEM. Bright white light and sharp cut off. 2.1 Amp each on low beam. https://www.dapperlighting.com/products/oe7 BTW the blurry photo is caused by extreme speed and distraction of the photographer by the beauty of the subject matter...

Excellent source of new alternators as well! Double Wow! I would give anything for an alternator and starter I can trust rather than the endless replacement cycle I seem stuck in .

Wow! Datsun parts on AES! That is some impressive starter.

No! Get the hatch to hinge bolts out. No hatch line up on re-install. Getting tight flat head Philips screws out might be a bit of a pain, but use a ratchet with a power bit, not a screw driver.

Or dream big and keep yourself up at night imagine what is possible... http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalogs/full_line_catalogs/CBT_Catalog_2011.pdf

Pair of these? Price makes me wonder about quality.... But you get the idea

Here is a dual ANL fuse block with voltage monitor for you https://www.importel.com/product/00/SFMANLFB12PND/DB-Link-Mini-ANL-Digital-Distribution-Block-2-04-Ga.-In-2-48-Ga.-Out

IMHO there is nothing more important than upgrading the high current stuff in your Datsun, including those fusible links with some new items. Nothing goes to hell faster and leaves you dead on the side of the road than a dirty connection flowing 30+ amps. There are literally hundreds of MAXI, MIDI and other fuse options out there including breakers, which you never have to find a replacement for in a pinch. Blue Sea is one of my favorites, as most of their stuff is high grade SS intended for marine service. Little fuse/Bussman also have great high current breakers like this in amperage's from 50 to 200A. I swear they even one that has two breakers in one package.... I just posted this morning about a battery mounted fuse panel that might interest you as well.

$6.25 CAD in Calgary for a spruce 2x4x8' at Home Desperate. Was hard to even buy fencing materials this spring. Everyone was building something while stuck at home. This just in, Lowes has fake Spruce, (white wood!) SUDS (not studs). Wonder where they get it from... C h i .....

A friend pointed out a very nifty electrical accessory he found. It is a battery mounted multi-fuse box with various inputs and outputs.. Seems brilliant given the multiple fused outputs, both low and high current, and compact fit-on-top design. And the price! A hefty £37 British pounds. Shipping for two of them cost me an additional £14 pounds. Pretty cheap. Did not come with any fuses, but they common types. MIDI and MAXI Hang a couple of relays on the side of this thing, and you could have quite the nerve center for any well equipped resto mod Datsun https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1100 This outfit has lots of other interesting electrical bits too. Check it out when you have some browsing time

And masking tape on the roof around the hatch hole where the hatch might touch too. Hood is easy one man, hatch not so much... Take the hatch strut off first. Not that I’ve ever forgotten to....

Best Google found outfit that might make them https://www.henefelt.com/product-page/hex-panel-mounting-nuts/

You're going to make me go measure the threads aren't you? I can't stand not knowing.... All the nuts I've seen have the raised center. M8 x 0.75mm is the thread size.

I have the frost fighter grid on my 510 rear glass. It’s pretty tough yet thin. No problem cleaning it with a rag and invisible glass cleaner so far.

or just https://frostfighter.com/clear-view-defrosters-about.htm or https://frostfighter.com/defroster-repair-grid-kit-2100.htm They have a bunch of cool products

if you need a set of real Z head light buckets let me know!

never seen a z headlight bucket without the aiming adjusters, any year.

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/thread-size~10-24/18-8-stainless-steel-extra-wide-truss-head-phillips-screws-9/ I would have chosen M5 metric but they do not have a black oxide option, just SS silver

For reference, my rivnut upgrade to replace the stock interior rivets used 10-24 threaded rivnets and matching Truss head black anodized philips headed machine screws. Got them from McMaster Carr. Roughly a M5 equivalent size. They have a nice wide head. i'll see if I can find a part number

First make sure your clutch hydraulics are working well and your clutch friction material is still good before you blame the transmission. Just went through this with a friend. 2nd and reverse were hard to get. Trans was just fine when I took it apart. Clutch was worn out as were the hydraulics.

The one I previously offered is tentatively now slated for use on an early 70 project I’m working on this winter. If I can convince the customer to “upgrade” to the later diff position to straighten the axle geometry, then this isolator will become available, but I won’t know that for a few weeks or months. Maybe not much help, but at least there is some hope.

The holes on the Facet pump are 2” apart, and the two bolts that mount it to the frame are 60 mm apart. M6 captured nuts in the frame, M8 bolts to mount the pump to the plate.