zKars

Let me know what you find out Richard. I can have my body shop guy tell me the exact mix he used. He has to mix some more too, there are couple things that need to get painted that didn’t get done.... Then you can compare to what your guy did. Here is a picture I took in crappy light (daylight at least) of the new paint job on the car. Same phone camera used for both at least. It is slightly less peachy than it was, and definitely more orange. Still not as orange as I think it should be but.... The pictures I see on my ipad here are really more orange than the paint really looks in person. The car was completed repainted from what the original body shop Used, that I commented on above. They used a 918 formula, they did not scan and try to match the paint that was on portions of the car. I had a chat with the shop owner about this, he told me, it greatly depends on the quality of the paint you select no matter how carefully you follow the code mix. Lots of experience, I believe his opinion. I have to go look if I have a tool bin door or something that is stock 918 somewhere.....

Glad you enjoyed today’s little treasure. Now off to google “How to make small coil springs by hand”

As I am today rebuilding another wiper linkage, I thought I would contribute some more detailed pictures of the fancy wiper park components for future posterity. Out of, ahem, "several" available wiper linkages, I have only a single one that has an unbroken spring. Thought I would include detailed pictures of it in hopes of some day creating new ones, as well as to show the assembly order and position of all the components Here is the little spring with oft-broken off hook engaged where it belongs Complete and broken example for comparison of where the break happens and how long the bent tang is Clever photography (ie move it around until you can see it), shows the shiny spots and wear on the bottom of the spring. All the bits and pieces in order from top to bottom. Top is defined as having the end with the (poor excuse for a ) snap ring/C-clip pointing up when you're taking it apart. I have used a real compatible sized E clip to replace that obnoxious soft C clip thing. This gives you a visual idea of how the eccentric cam part fits with the hole in the arm, effectively changing the arm length as the cam rotates. Another shot showing how the spring and the "millennium falcon" part with the slot are arranged in the assembly. Clearly this proves the designer of said space ship in the movie was a Datsun owner.

Found it! Better late than never I guess....

I feel a bit sad they didn’t pop the hood and show off the engine bay and make SOME noise about the performance objectives. If your audience is the enthusiast group they claim to be speaking to, then this should have been included. Maybe there is nothing under there..... The shape is pretty good. Except the face. Looks somehow childish or immature, or simplistic? Or something? Could use a bit more work for sure. But frankly, in the end, it’s the driving experience that will sell it to me, or not. It will have to evoke a memory of the 240z and just feel “right”, or at home, or something intangible that’s impossible to describe without being there to feel it. Maybe having a spritz of “old datsun plastic smell” that hits you when you first open the door and sit down. That would do it. Smell memories are the most powerful.

I'm impressed by the heartfelt personal presentation rather than a canned marketing pitch.

Seems “we” are staying stock so the one I have is off the table. Hmmm... I “could” chop the crossmember up and weld it back together with the center “offset” forward, that let’s me use the later isolator.... Done that to standard Z trans x-members to fit the T-5 transmission. Not exactly an invisible modification, but likely workable. Or, If it wouldn’t melt the rubber, I could weld/move/adjust the position of the diff mounting holes on a later isolator to let you use it. Very slow welding with rapid cold water immersion every 5 seconds of welding???? Where there’s a will, there’s a way; and relatives....

Just have examples.I can measure something

Here is an example for reference

Probably figured this out already, but M8x1.25.

Go LED headlights, reduces the current requirements to the point where relays are barely required to protect our sensitive old headlight switches. either Dapper OE7’s or LED H4 bulbs in Hella or Bosch (or similar) housings is the way to go. Dapper’s OE7 (and OE5) lights are astoundingly good and look OEM. Bright white light and sharp cut off. 2.1 Amp each on low beam. https://www.dapperlighting.com/products/oe7 BTW the blurry photo is caused by extreme speed and distraction of the photographer by the beauty of the subject matter...

Excellent source of new alternators as well! Double Wow! I would give anything for an alternator and starter I can trust rather than the endless replacement cycle I seem stuck in .

Wow! Datsun parts on AES! That is some impressive starter.

No! Get the hatch to hinge bolts out. No hatch line up on re-install. Getting tight flat head Philips screws out might be a bit of a pain, but use a ratchet with a power bit, not a screw driver.

Or dream big and keep yourself up at night imagine what is possible... http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Transportation/Resources/catalogs/full_line_catalogs/CBT_Catalog_2011.pdf

Pair of these? Price makes me wonder about quality.... But you get the idea

Here is a dual ANL fuse block with voltage monitor for you https://www.importel.com/product/00/SFMANLFB12PND/DB-Link-Mini-ANL-Digital-Distribution-Block-2-04-Ga.-In-2-48-Ga.-Out

IMHO there is nothing more important than upgrading the high current stuff in your Datsun, including those fusible links with some new items. Nothing goes to hell faster and leaves you dead on the side of the road than a dirty connection flowing 30+ amps. There are literally hundreds of MAXI, MIDI and other fuse options out there including breakers, which you never have to find a replacement for in a pinch. Blue Sea is one of my favorites, as most of their stuff is high grade SS intended for marine service. Little fuse/Bussman also have great high current breakers like this in amperage's from 50 to 200A. I swear they even one that has two breakers in one package.... I just posted this morning about a battery mounted fuse panel that might interest you as well.

$6.25 CAD in Calgary for a spruce 2x4x8' at Home Desperate. Was hard to even buy fencing materials this spring. Everyone was building something while stuck at home. This just in, Lowes has fake Spruce, (white wood!) SUDS (not studs). Wonder where they get it from... C h i .....

A friend pointed out a very nifty electrical accessory he found. It is a battery mounted multi-fuse box with various inputs and outputs.. Seems brilliant given the multiple fused outputs, both low and high current, and compact fit-on-top design. And the price! A hefty £37 British pounds. Shipping for two of them cost me an additional £14 pounds. Pretty cheap. Did not come with any fuses, but they common types. MIDI and MAXI Hang a couple of relays on the side of this thing, and you could have quite the nerve center for any well equipped resto mod Datsun https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1100 This outfit has lots of other interesting electrical bits too. Check it out when you have some browsing time

And masking tape on the roof around the hatch hole where the hatch might touch too. Hood is easy one man, hatch not so much... Take the hatch strut off first. Not that I’ve ever forgotten to....

Best Google found outfit that might make them https://www.henefelt.com/product-page/hex-panel-mounting-nuts/

You're going to make me go measure the threads aren't you? I can't stand not knowing.... All the nuts I've seen have the raised center. M8 x 0.75mm is the thread size.

I have the frost fighter grid on my 510 rear glass. It’s pretty tough yet thin. No problem cleaning it with a rag and invisible glass cleaner so far.

or just https://frostfighter.com/clear-view-defrosters-about.htm or https://frostfighter.com/defroster-repair-grid-kit-2100.htm They have a bunch of cool products