zKars

Assuming your threads are ok on your old nut, you can also just make a thin shim washer to put between it and the spacer behind it to move the place where the peen gap in the shaft lines up with the nut sleeve in a fresh spot when the nut torques up.

Aha

There is indeed someone making freshly locally machined RH main shaft nuts. Now I have to remember where I saw it...... Check godzillaraceworks first....

It’s a replacement washer pump. If you want to keep your windshield squirters working, yes, you need it.

Heard good things about damperdoctor.com doing great rebuilds.

Yes, no welded plate, you need the baffle. It’s a flat plate with two holes, bit of shape, but if didn’t have them, I’d make them them a sheet of 20 gauge sheet metal. Hardly worth the postage to send you a pair. I can take measurements and post that if you like

The early cars, have a welded doubling plate that serves the purpose of this plate in later cars. If you have that plate, (it has a 90 degree sticking out part at the bottom) then you don’t need this “baffle”. It won’t fit anyway with the welded angled plate.

https://zcardepot.com/products/door-panel-card-set-black-240z-1970-73-new?_pos=2&_sid=fa947020c&_ss=r

I shipped one of those once. I felt compelled to attach it (tape, screws, packing material support etc) to a thin sheet of plywood to ensure it arrived in one piece. Anything less and you are about guaranteed to have a “problem”. The repo pieces are nice and thick. ABS cement and fibreglass matt will work wonders. Then fill the crack(s), re-texture, SEM black, repeat until happy. Or get a new one.

Oh for heaven’s sake. 1. TC rods will be Techno toy tuning adjustable ones to gain the extra length. I just lengthened a pair of stock one so we can move the car around until the new ones show which might be a while given Xmas and shipping delays. Just cut a pair of stock ones in half and add a 5/8 ID tube welded over with about 2” overlap. 2. Sway bar mount is now a 1/2” thick 1.5x4” bar, with a pair of recessed holes to mount the bar to the stock in-frame captured nuts, then two holes 1” further forward, threaded, to accept the sway bar U-clamps in their new position. 3. Drill one new hole in the frame rail 1” forward of the rear existing hole, and drill one new hole in the K member 1” BACK of it’s front hole. Drill matching holes in the two re-enforcing plates top and bottom, actually shorten the top one by 1” since its that skinny thing. Re-apply K member to frame rail with stock bolts in new holes. New bolts are 1” closer together, K member is 1” forward. Fill abandoned rear frame rail hole with bubble gum. Juicy Fruit of course. 4. Re-insert engine and put the drive shaft, that how fits, back on. Done. 5. No wait. My fancy shortened/offset trans mount is now all wrong, get his original one and just cut a bit off the ends to get it fit in the skinnier tunnel, and drill two new holes closer together to fit the mount holes. Now done. Yes the next owner will have questions, but the current owner is likely to keep it for another 30 years. He is happy to have Caster adjustment he didn’t have before.

Okay, not only are Saturn and Jupiter aligned today, but also the suspension, engine and body on this poor little Z. TC rods lengthened, frame rail holes redrilled and K member moved ahead, sway bar mounts shifted, and yes finally the steering shaft fits as it should. Everyone can relax now. Back to regular programming. Nothing to see here.

The alternator isn’t charging strongly at idle, but seems to be fine above idle, and that’s not reason to do anything. Yet. Keep an eye on it. If you ever get into a “needle on the negative side” while driving around, then think about doing something.

Flywheel is fine. A 225 mm clutch penalty is extra weight over the 200mm version. Water pump fits front cover fine, BUT the pulley groove position is not the same as the L20 pulley. You can use a Z pulley if you also use a Z damper to get the grove in the same plane. Then you have to play with the alternator pulley position as well.

It’s a 4/70. I think a new set of K member holes, a set of extendable T/C rods, and we’re good to go. Don’t really want to cut off and re-attach the T/C pockets. Yuch.

I wish it were so simple. All these parts came out of this car, but now the driveshaft is too long. Been measuring and comparing to my other Z, and have a buddy with 2, and the verdict is in. The engine is an inch too far back in the car. The new front frame rails are installed an inch back too far. No big deal, just shorten the drive shaft an inch, and carry on. Except the wheels are an inch too far back in the wheel wells.....

Gang, I need another measurement, from several of you. Easy to get. Firewall to the back of the valve cover. Or firewall to block/adapter plate/front of trans, down by the starter. Trying to put the driveshaft back on and its too long, by, wait for it, an inch.......

Not sure. I’m going to be putting the old exhaust system up there today, we’ll see if it still fits. It has no resonator at least, so it shouldn’t be a big deal, but when I replace it with a system that has one, it might be a bit snugger. We’ll see. He can probably kiss any hope of a CD009 350Z 6 speed conversion goodbye.Not much chance of that though with this car. Turned out to be closer to 1.5” narrower between the mount holes. If it weren’t for the 1” front to back offset, I could have just lopped the ends off and redrilled new holes.

This is what a guy has to do to get by these days. Sheesh.

I find myself in an unusual situation today. I’m re-assembling a nice post body restoration early VIN 240 and put the engine/trans back in yesterday. It doesn’t fit. Well, the transmission mount doesn’t fit. The mount is now much wider (by two freaking inches!!!) than the transmission tunnel mount holes thanks to the lunk head that did the floor replacements couple of years ago. (Not me!) They’v even welded the old transmission mount plates on the side of the tunnel in the wrong position longitudinally as the holes are a good 3/4 inch behind the trans isolator mount stud. Custom trans mount here we come. I can’t even trust they welded the mount plates it back in the right vertical position. Can someone with an A type 4 speed mounted in a known stock position, that just happens to have the console out and the end of the shifter thingy sticking up, tell me how high the tip of it is above the tunnel sheet metal to give me an idea of where to put the end of the transmission before I build the new mount?? Purdy please. Here is a picture of where I currently have the trans lifted to. Not suggesting its anything even close. Just to give you an idea of the what to measure. To top of the bushing where the shifter goes in, down to the surrounding tunnel sheet metal, at the back, just cuz it’s closer. Thanks

I’ve had a 5 sp “B” trans that had a lovely whine in 3rd and 5th that magically silenced when I did nothing other than change the shift knob to a much heavier version. Changed the harmonics of the thing completely.

https://www.amazon.ca/Molotow-ONE4ALL-Acrylic-Marker-703-102/dp/B01E7EG3NM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1RMFWSO5SD0DS&dchild=1&keywords=chrome+paint+pen&qid=1608215841&sprefix=Chrome+paint%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-1 This stuff ain’t bad for doing the “chrome” lines on the console and HCP etc.

i am in love with the Jenvey’s. Having nicely tuned EFI is a blessing. Touch key, start, drive away. Running Haltech 750 for da brain. I have a local Haltech expert that owns a Z, so we put each other to good use. I am very lucky. But still love tuning nice SU’s a stock Z motor. Certainly simpler and infinitely cheaper.

Nope, sorry.

Oh yes. It ran that way for a couple of years. I’ve since changed it all to EFI using Jenvey Heritage throttle bodies. I’m not good at build threads.....

Then that's a bad thing. It is the correct design..... Sorry Let me see if I have a 23 tooth reverse idler...