zKars

The Fiche definitely would be a go-to source of From/To date information for most parts history, but it does not give you anything resembling a decent picture of many uniqueness's between parts, or fine details. Only modern color pictures of real parts from several angles sometimes can show the level of detail. Here is one picture where I try to show the difference between the 74-76 door panels and the 77-78 along the back edge to show the subtle angle difference. (77-78 in front). No way the fiche is ever going to give you that.

As an example, here are the three styles of seat slider. I happen to have been embroiled in this discussion recently. S30 1970-1978. North american Left, 240Z, 1970-1973 Up to 7/73 Center 260Z and 75-76 280Z. (Date range....) 8/73 - 7/76. (?) Right 280z 1977-78. 8/76- 78 Rear of the slicers is at the top of the picture. Sorry about that. 240z. Studs in sliders go through holes in seat base. Nut/lock/flat attach (awkwardly !) from underside of metal frame. 260/280 . Round headed hex M8x1.25 chrome bolts attach through slider into captured nuts in seat base frame. Notes that come to mind: Since the way the sliders attach to seat bases is different as well, I should include pictures of the seat bases, but only from the perspective of the way the sliders mount, Not the webbing, or upholstry differences. That’s another thread. I will copy of all this into a new thread In the new forum if and when it goes live.

That is one “H-e-double hockey sticks” bite out of those pulley flanges. Ouch! Maybe just take similar sized chunks out of the other side to keep it balanced? Sand over the edges a bit so it doesn’t catch and tear the belt? Or PM me for a replacement!

Dearly Beloved. I find myself explaining over and over again to various Z owners (all Datsun owners really) about the differences in various items and what year range they belong to. I am tired of doing so, and tires of hunting down pictures and URL's of stuff for them, and would just like to point them to a single URL where they can look up the answer to their question. What better place than our beloved CZCC forum, and what a better way to entice new members! Note this fatigue does not apply to the membership here, but mostly to the ones I try to help on that blessed piece of crap FB....... There are just SO many more soles pleading for help there, than here, I cannot but help wanting to draw them all into our little cult, er, I mean "family".... I understand this is a vast and highly detailed area of discussion, but at the very least, I would like have a basic picture library of items, one item type per thread, in a forum group I think would be aptly named "One of these things is not like the Other". For example. pictures of the three basic gas tank types, pictures of the fuel sending units from each, pictures of the three types of seat sliders, pictures of the 240, 260/280 early and late door cards (my personal bane)..... Door internal/regulator glass/frame differences, etc etc. The list is endless. I am blessed with a decent selection of many of these common items and will start this off by taking representative photos of each of the unique items I have. I will apply date ranges, and will love to have clarifications from the peanut gallery (or any fancy nut you claim represents your level of knowledge) to further refine either date application or other clarification on the topic. We will clearly label each as applying to North american, Japanese , European etc product lines, although for the beginning lets stick to the North American stuff. I suggest the new forum be in Car Talk > Z > One of these things is not like the other @mike , please chime in and let me know if you believe there is a better place or organization structure for this. Others let us know if this is something you'd like to see or contribute to.

@Rerbset58 please post a picture of your pulley. There are several styles. I may have one

Group 24F is what I’ve always bought. https://www.batteryequivalents.com/bci-battery-group-size-chart.html The stock battery frame internal dimensions are 10-3/8 x 6-15/16. In my link above that suggests that a 24F is too wide at 10-3/4, and that 24H and T are better at 10-1/4. I’ve never had a problem with a 24F fitting a stock frame, probably a manufacturer specific shape thing, or the max width is at the base, not around the perimeter of the top. Can’t comment on the correct height, no Z’s in reach at the moment, sorry. Just spotted a good battery picture in one of the threads here. Kinda shows the stock frame and mounting tab at the firewall.

Well my first impression is that the seals in the end there are likely different than the B type 4 and 5 speeds, as the mechanicals are different. Never seen a kit for the A type. You’re going to have to take it apart and look what is in there for seals and then go hunting. If it’s o-rings, finding new ones is likely not that hard. If there is an oil seal, then maybe a bit harder. I have a couple of these transmissions, one of which I plan on recycling, so if worse comes to worse, I can send you the tail housing and maybe it won’t leak. As to the sloppy shifter, I used to put a 1/4” bolt through in place of the pin/C-clip and tighten the bolt down to draw the fork together to remove some of the play. If the fork is worn down and rounded over, you might be able to take it to a welder to build it back up. You can get stiffer poly bushings for the shifter rod receiver too to remove some of the softness there as well. If I get a chance, maybe I’ll tear down that A type I want to scrap today or tomorrow and let you know of any tricks, but usually its just that you get the trans in neutral then push the shifter rod to the left to cause the pin that sits in the shifter forks to move away from them, allowing you to pull the tail shaft off. Just wiggle and twist until it separates.

For the sake of reference, here are pictures of the resistor's where-abouts and appearance in the harness. And a picture of my Fluke VOM showing the resistance value. located just inside the firewall grommet. ok, 2226 ohms. Nominal 2200 ohm. If you were to go buy one, the color code is RED RED RED (2, 2, X100) (then one more band for tolerance). Blue taped to the harness Labelled as a resistor

I'm going to ad a detail about the 280z tach swap that I don't see mentioned here. There is a 2200 ohm resistor in line with the line between the negative coil terminal and the tach signal pin. Here it is in the 76 FSM. Now it would appear from the above discussions that many have not had a problem with getting the tach to work without it, so maybe it doesn't matter, but in the case where you have trouble, adding it might help.

People keep bringing me 5 speeds with chucks of bearing cage on the magnetic drain plug. Been the mid plate countershaft bearing in every case so far. At the very least I’d replace the bearings. Wish I was closer. Aren’t the balls supposed to be inside the races? Not always I guess. The good news is that the cage pieces haven’t reaped havoc with the rest of the rotating parts in any of the examples so far....

Well I dug around in the pile-o-parts and found a couple of old style diff mounts. One shot, the other in decent shape, though not new I did a bit of measuring between the old and the new, and I think I found a way to get the 35mm offset to work out. If you line up one edge of the inside of the mount so the parts that go over the cross member are in line, and turn the new mount to get the maximum difference between the location of the diff bolt mount holes, you get about 1-3/8 or 35 mm offset. There you go. Here I've blasted the good old mount and lined them up again with a straight edge. There is the 35mm diff in the diff bolt hole location. I suppose that old mount is available is anyone wants it...... I can just imagine.....

Yup, those rails are 77-78. The 74.5 to 76 have 60 degree tabs on both ends, like the front tab on those. 240 rails have studs on both ends that fit your holes. I have lots of the 240 rails, let me know if you want a set. Send me a PM.

These are the basic 280zx alloy rims. 14x6. Very light. In fact we just put a set of Falken Azenis R615kt. 195/60 -14’s on a set of these. Sticky (200 tread wear) but fairly soft side wall. Haven’t put many miles on them, but a pretty decent 14 tire performance and ride quality. Good wet weather as well. $105USD or so on Tirerack, $150 CAD here in Alberta.

Always a silver lining. Now it’s easy to drill the holes for the speaker wires and grommets. Do it BEFORE you paint it

I have never had consistent, repeatable, long term stability fuel gauges in any Datsun regardless of how clean the wiring, how new the sender or how stable the voltage. You just learn how much you use for how far you travel and how much is left when you fill up. The gauge just means “yep you just filled up” or “got some still”, but that’s about it. Pretty much gave up and went to modern senders and aftermarket gauges that you program.

10-90 ohm (F - E) is the spec I’ve always worked with. I can test a few senders....

Does it run? Be happy!

The box-o-boat-bits on their way to a new owner. Must own a lot of boats.... He does live near Puget Sound!

The 2+2 tail light trim panels are subtly different in shape in many ways. They are not interchangeable with the coupe. It’s not obvious until you lay one over the other. The 2+2 body shape is really unique from the doors backward. I too wondered about the function of the dual nubbies but I’m convinced its entirely esthetic. Either to fill a perceived visual void or just to make a “this isn’t your usual Z butt you’re looking at” statement.

Ok, ok, Dn’t mind that either.

Yup. Stock 2+2 rear end, other than the over rider bar. Interior is someone’s creative upholstery job. I myself prefer a good quilted velour interior. Pink or baby blue.

Been buying Moog parts through RockAuto for some time. No problem getting outer tie rods, ball joints etc. Summit pricing is pretty good though, very much like Rockauto.

Just like your wheel studs.

Bolts are splined into the pedal box. Just tighten the nuts. M8x1.25. When you puts nuts back on or take them off, and the bolt spins, THEN you worry. Not before.

Jim, you are welcome to any item or items you want off of this pile-o-stuff. Shipping in your direction is surprisingly in-expensive. I’ve been quoting some people about shipping a full E31 head south, and a 28x10x8 55 lb box is ~$80-100 depending on how far it’s going, so just a pair of these carbs would be pretty reasonable at around $30. Just let me know what you want to do