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Cooper260z

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About Cooper260z

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    Sf Bay Area, california

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  • Zcars Owned
    260z
  • About my Cars
    I got a 260Z that had been sitting in a garage for 25 years and am trying to get it on the road again

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  1. @Zup I do have the other thermostat housing and early water line. The water pipe you see in the bottom picture is just an extra one that’s sitting on the engine. The guy I got the engine from just threw that in there and I don’t usually say no to free parts. That whole l24 was free. So then to change the balance tube I’d just have to figure out how to block the hole in the exhaust manifold I think. Also I’m planning on to use the heat shield from the l24 because it has the hooks for the rerun springs for the round tops which I think my current heat shield lacks
  2. noted. Thank you guys so much. I don’t know why this change of carburetors seemed so daunting before. Guess I just got psyched out by reading about the problems people ran into. If there’s anything you think I should know about this, I’d love to hear it! Thanks again!
  3. I figured I’d leave the balance tube for now and go back for that later. But if you have some insight on what I should with those hard lines when I do want to change the balance tube, then I’d be happy to hear it! I do have the round top linkage, I think. The guy I bought the carbs from, gave me two different sized center linkages with the confidence that one of them would be the right one. So hopefully one is.
  4. Alright then, the blocked off port would seem to be the one that goes to the carburetors then. Thank you so much @Captain Obvious I think you’ve cleared most of questions! So I think I can start swapping the carbs then once I get new gaskets
  5. Wow, are forums not the best aftermarket car part there is? Thank you very much @Captain Obvious that clears up a bunch right there. Although I’m sure I’ll come up with a few more questions next time I look at the car. But what about that blocked off thermostat port? The previous owner told me that he or the owner before him has “blocked off the water to the intake” but I can see that the water still goes through the intake and even leaks onto the exhaust I think. So what should that blocked off port go to? Incase I should put it back.
  6. @Captain Obvious okay, That makes sense. Id recently seen a flat top carb by itself and saw that it had various holes in it, but I haven’t taken them off my car yet so I wasn’t sure if the manifold had water holes. The carburetor insulators I see for sale on zcardepot all have holes at the bottom, but I assume I can just ignore those and use them?
  7. Oh, and if I take the intake manifolds off I assume I should change the manifold gasket, which would mean also taking the exhaust off. Is that correct?
  8. I know this topic has been heavily discussed in the past but I am unclear on a couple things and am looking for some help.to set the scene, I’m working on an early 74 260z that to me looks like it’s bone stock and has almost everything in the engine bay that it came with. I have two sets of round top carbs and a mostly complete l24 sitting on a dolly. Also this my first Z car and I’m not too familiar with them yetNeither of the round tops that I have, have the holes on the manifold side of them that I think I are used to circulate water? So if I want to use these carbs should I use the manifold that’s on the l24 that also does not have the holes to circulate water, as opposed to the manifolds that are currently on the car? The l24 manifolds do have a water line going between them though, Incase that is relevant. As a side note, the round tops did not come on the l24.If I use the manifolds that are in the l24 it seems to makes sense to also use the balance tube that lacks the provisions for the egr diaphragm and such. But if I use the l24 balance tube then what do I do with the two hard lines that are coming out of the balance tube that are currently on the car? Those two hard lines seemingly being used for water and egr. The l24 balance tube has one port at the end of it but that port is currently blocked off and I don’t know what would’ve been there originally, if it would’ve been water or gone to the exhaust manifold like the 260 one.And on the thermostat housing on the 260, a port is blocked off and I’m wondering what that should go to.I’ll add some pictures of what I’m referring to and am happy to take more pictures if necessary.I’m trying to get at least most of the details of this conversion sorted out before taking the car apart, because even though it’s not registered and I’m not driving it around, the car does run and drive and occasionally needs to be moved and that’s obviously an easier task when the car runs.So if my questions aren’t too annoying, I’d appreciate any and all help anyone has for me. Thanks! The pictures in order of appearance show the blocked off thermostat housing port, the hard lines on the 260 balance tube and the single blocked off port at the end of the l24 balance tube
  9. Alright then. I’ll put those wires back and get another tachometer. Thanks!
  10. @Zed Head I thought this car should’ve had points originally? It runs quite well, it drives, idles great and starts right up. Just the other day I moved the wires off the ballast resister block (is that what it’s called?) because I thought that those were for points and I don’t have those. As for the gauge, the gauge lights work, the left arrow indicator blinks, right arrow doesn’t blink and the tach doesn’t move
  11. Right you are @Zed Head! So the pictures show the block inside the distributor and that there is no box on the outside of the distributor. (Disregard that water block off. Haven’t fixed that yet) the blue wire is on the coil negative, the inline resister for the tach is present and plugged in (previously wasn’t plugged in) and the tach has voltage at the positive and negative posts and the red and black wire. So I think the tach should be working unless the gauge itself is broken
  12. Disclaimer: I don’t know what exactly has been done to this car as far as modifications though I don’t think it’s much. And I’m not great with wiring At first I was thinking I had a zx distributor but if it was a zx distributor wouldn’t it have a little box on the radiator side of the distributor? But the igniter(?) Block inside the distributor doesn’t say pertronix on it so I don’t think that’s what it is And then my tach currently doesn’t work but I have voltage at the red/black wire on the tach, that varies with rpm so I think that means I’m getting tach signal and it should be working. So does that mean the tachometer itself is just broken?
  13. @Zed Head after reading what you said and looking at the mechanism multiple times, I understand how it should work now. When I Installed the new wheel cylinders, the adjustment arms that move the wheel did not contact the wheel at first. If I bend the arms so that they do contact the wheel do I run the risk of altering the point at which the arm will stop moving the wheel? Or as long as I’m bending the arm upwards to contact the wheel and not bending it inwards or outwards, will it still operate the way it should? my dad keeps Instilling the fear in me that the shoes will just keep adjusting out until the drums seize and then I’m stuck somewhere
  14. @Terrapin Z but if you turn the adjuster until it doesn’t turn anymore, would the drum not be seized tight?
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