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About Cooper260z

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    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Sf Bay Area, california

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    I got a 260Z that had been sitting in a garage for 25 years and am trying to get it on the road again

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  1. @Trnelson I don’t have any pictures or specs to help you out too much, but I found a threaded plug that was already at my house that fit. But there is still an open port on one of the manifolds because I ran out of plugs, but I’m pretty sure that the water passage is separate from the air passage so leaving the ports open doesn’t effect how the car runs
  2. @Frankenstein Yes this fixed my problem. With the booster off the car I was able to shake and look in it and eventually find the disc, then I used a long sewing needle to stick it and carefully extract it. Then super glued it back on to the push rod
  3. Took the booster off, thankfully it was much easier then what I’m used to with bmw 2002 boosters. Got the disc out, super glued it back on, put it back together and the brake pedal no longer goes to the floor! I’ll have to do some road testing and see if the push rod needs to be adjusted, but now I can comfortably start shaking the car down! Thanks for the help everyone, and I’ll keep faulty hydraulic parts in mind also.
  4. Thanks @Patcon a pick did the trick! Now I’ll see if I can fish the disc out without removing the booster
  5. so if I get the right grip and leverage on the pushrod, I should be able to just pull it out? It hasn’t come out so far from my pulling, and I obviously don’t want to damage the metal ring or rubber seal. If that’s the deal though then I’ll do my best to get it out. I do have an FSM, and it doesn’t mention pulling the pushrod out by this method, that I’ve seen
  6. so if I take the master cylinder off, this is the view of the booster (first picture.) is there a way to get further into the booster while it’s on the car, to see if that disc has fallen off? Also, I don’t know if it’s worth noting, but if I pull the rod out I can feel it slide out of whatever is inside there to guide it, and after that it just kinda flops around (second picture) i don’t know if that’s normal
  7. i have bled the master cylinder. I’ve put a total of maybe 50 miles on the car but I have not noticed any loss of brake fluid. I’ll have someone step on the pedal while I watch the fluid like that article says
  8. When the car is not running, stepping on the pedal provides the normal feeling of stepping on the brake pedal when a car is off, it’s harder to press and stops at some point. The pedal does slowly sink to the floor in this scenario. Though with the car off if I press the pedal as hard as I can, it gets stuck for like half a second before coming back up and a bit of a clunk can be heard. the booster is stock I believe and pumping the brakes with the car running provides no additional effects. Im interested in looking into the piece that Falles off of the push rod since that’s co
  9. @Patcon nope. If you press the brake pedal when the car isn’t running it feels like a normal pedal, but when it’s running it just goes to the floor and doesn’t change.
  10. Yes. No. No. Short answer, I can rule those things out. Didn’t know that about the brake light showing a pressure imbalance, that’s good to know
  11. if memory serves though, the rod won’t just come straight out of the booster, so I assume there’s some step that I’m missing to get it out. I’ll get out there soon but if you know what step I’m missing to get the rod out that would be great info.
  12. The soft brake lines I also replaced. I replaced with new rubber lines because I didn’t have the budget for stainless at the time and to the best of my knowledge they’re bled properly, brake fluid comes out clean. And I’ve adjusted the push rod, that was another step that got to my current scenario. @Terrapin Z I’ve heard about that disc in the booster before, how would I check for that?
  13. @Terrapin Z thank you, I hadn’t heard of that before. But I just checked and both bleed screws are on the top, so that’s not it.
  14. I’ve done some looking but haven’t found anyone describing this particular scenario. My car is an early 74 260z, I replaced the rotors, pads, rebuilt the calipers, new drums, shoes and hardware as well as new wheel cylinders and master cylinder. The brakes work pretty well though they don’t lock up the wheels but they don’t have very many miles on them so I don’t expect them to yet. The brakes work but the issue is that the pedal has nearly no resistance when depressing it while the car is running, it just goes to the floor. The braking force increases the further the pedal
  15. For anyone in the future, I bought the wheels and they clear just fine!
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