zKars

Found it! Doing the SEEK thing is especially fun to watch. Guess there are at least 2 or three AM stations here to seek for….. AM_Radio.MOV

FIRST I MUST APOLOGIZE FOR POSTING INCORRECT PHOTOS. THEY HAVE BEEN CORRECTED TO THE CORRECT RADIO. AGE IS CATCHING UP TO ME FOR SURE. AGAIN MY SINCERE APOLOGIES. I have a used and fully functional early AM only 240z radio from a Jan 71 240. Model TM-1081ZB(s) Came out of a Z restored last year. Owner has had if many many years, pretty sure its original to the car. I have a video somewhere in my library with it working on the bench playing the only AM station we have left in Calgary. Some talk radio news outlet I think. Will post as soon as I find it. Don’t hold your breath as they say, if I have to I’ll make another one. Seen these at $2500USD when fully restored, happy to let this one go for $1500 USD plus postage.

Small update I guess as the tariffs seem to have shifted to a flat 10% now, according to Zonos messages I’ve been receiving. Since it is now possible to predict in advance what the tariff amounts will be as I ship items, I may be tempted to return to shipping items to the US via postal only. I’m posting one item for sale today as a test.

Negatory sorry

Little bit of brightness and contrast twiddling….. Shows up the cover better anyway Sure looks like an original cover at least, I’ say that due to the wavy distorted shape that is the common aging symptom. Anxious to see better pictures of the whole thing.

I found I like these SS studs from Amazon. Ford engine spec. I love the hex internal drive on the end, makes inserting them easy. Cut to length as you need to. I also like the price and quality. I do have a ton of their flange nuts left over, i rarely use those. Belmetric has m8 nuts with 12mm heads that are yellow zinc plated

The ring around the base of the switch has two tiny holes. Have to invent a tool to turn it, like a set of pointy tipped tweezers. More difficult is getting to the two electrical connectors at the back.

One very common culprit is the hazard switch. It is the central clearing house that affects turn and hazard signal functions. Try cycling it several times (like 20) and see if the symptoms change or if the problem solves itself. Remove it and open it to clean the 8 contacts

Also, US based VTSShipping and deliveryAll of our products are IN STOCK unless stated otherwise. We ship from the United States. Worldwide shipping available, please contact us for a...

Has anyone ever studied an original to see if it has a tiny vent hole? I shall certainly go look at the one I have squirreled away. I have trouble with the concept of a “grease reservoir”. Grease does not circulate around inside the rack, or wheel bearings for that matter. Its high viscosity and immense stickiness makes its job to stay put as a film on metal surfaces. I do not understand how having any grease in this thing is of any help to maintaining grease levels in the rack. Some might get pushed in there initially, but it’s never ever coming back out. Same with putting grease in the wheel bearing dust cap. Other than providing a barrier for dust incursion, it can serve as a reservoir for grease in the bearings. There is no way for it to get there. Engineering wise, I see some wisdom in providing a vent, and thus maybe a small volume to keep a small vented quantity from getting out to make a mess, but it would have to have a hole to function as a vent. No grease would go in if there was not a way to displace air in the reservoir. And they did abandon these reservoirs on later racks, so they do in fact serve no useful purpose. Sorry to go off track on the thread. The work of the reproduction is excellent, you should be commended. I love seeing a reservoir on the rack when it’s supposed to be there.

I just checked the sizes of the stock 82-83 turbo wheel lug nuts, and they have the same 18.xx mm shank diameter I have purchased the Dorman 611241 lug nuts in the past and they are decent quality. Rock Auto has them.

And there is that thread on the valve cover breather and trying to find something that will convert it to AN or NPT to run a catch can hose. Seen infinite discussions about it, what folks did to change it, and even some fitting for RB engines someone found that fits, but still waiting to have the actual size stated.

Yup, 7/16-20 for the seat belts. M12 is a valid spec as well from some DOT document I found 15 years ago when I was researching aftermarket replacement belts. No idea what manufacturers adopted world wide. Also curious what seat belt threads were used on the various early 60’s datsuns (411, roadsters etc). The 1/4-28 are on the two Z hood bumper . Craziest thing I’ve ever seen. Must have been supplier determined at the time.

Here are the thread rules. Again. For any hardware you are likely to encounter. 4 x 0.7 5 x 0.8 6 x 1.0 8 x 1.25 10 x 1.5 - bolts that thread into the engine block. Trans, head, brackets, 10 x 1.25 - All other M10 bolts, ie suspension and body are 1.25 12 x 1.25 - wheel studs, front spindle to steering arm, trans mount (later), TC rod ends, Flywheel , spindle pins 14 x 1.5 - diff strap bolts, front control arm pins 16 x 1.5 - Crank bolt 20 x 1.5 - Rear Stub Axles Threaded pipe fittings are all BSPT, A/C and EGR excluded. There is a 1/4x28 SAE thread somewhere for you to find as a test. There are 7/16-20 SAE too. Another test. And what the heck is up with those short fat rear control arm bushing bolts? And why do I have 2 or 3 dozen of them? The first 7 on the list are the ones you should have taps and dies for on hand at all times. Better yet the thread restoring kind, not the thread making kind. Print this out and post it on the shop wall.

Never seen the last type. Suspect it is a retro fit that someone did from some other car. The first one is 240, second is 280, though can’t nail down the change over date. Could be as early as the north american 260 in 74. The fiche might provide the date info

Well, it should be no surprise really, but we are all (well most of us) carrying a little device that is more spatially aware than we ever dreamed. The humble iPhone has considerable power to know where it in space, what is level and what is plumb, which way is north and how far away you are from the sales at Best Buy…. Built in apps already expose those powers. Check out Level and Measure. I’m not going to go to great lengths to describe what I found, I’m just going to leave a web link here to an company that has developed an app and some simple hardware that I think is incredibly good at what it does. Read their story and see what you think. It’s called: Gyraline https://gyraline.com/products/the-case It consists of a little flat 3D printed plate that you mount your iPhone into. The plate has nubbins that let you place it against your wheel’s rim lip in a dependable way so you can align your phone to the rim correctly. Fire up the app, place the phone in a few key spots, push buttons, BOOM. Out spits your alignment. I will say I have their version 1, been using it for about a year, and that it works. I can get a toe in and camber measurement in literally 1 minute. All four wheels. Yeah…… I’ve compared it to “Real” alignments and it’s very very close. I just had my Mazda cx70 done at the dealership and I plan on comparing it to what they said as well. Anyway, read, study, you decide. The thing is not cheap, they know what they have. They are challenging the big guys with their marketing materials. No more string for me…..

Wheel alignments. Never has there been such anguish in my car world surrounding a technical topic as with wheel alignments and how to do them “at home”. Strings, tape measures, levels, gadgets, do-dad’s, fads, etc etc. Check the aftermarket for all the gadgets you can buy. Nearly infinite. Never has there been such a technology gap between the professional whole-bay devouring laser powered machines you’ve seen at the dealers and auto shops and the home guy with a couple of sticks, a dirty string and a tape measure trying to get his toe-in vaguely correct. Well, I may have discovered a truly better way to do this. Read on.

Had to resort to the old drum puller once. Came off with a very loud bang. Putting on a couple of lug nuts loosely prevents it from exploding into your lap

Story #2 continued While I was at UPS, those lovely people suggested I try DHL. They “suggested” that DHL seems to be able to get anything to the US with less “questions” and “risks” but the costs would be likely double, Like $400…. So after frank conversations with the buyer, we agreed to go that route. Without saying too much, the DHL experience was easier. Their online shipping app still requires a detailed item description so they know what it is, but the only concern the guy at the drop off center had was that it didn’t contain any fluids or oil. It’s on its way for $418CAD….. And also worth mentioning, the cost story is not complete. For UPS and DHL, and I believe FEDEX as well, the receiver is on the hook for the Duty/Tariff/tax costs before they will release it to the receiver, rather than the shipper like Canada Post, and we don’t know what those costs are. Yet. Will get there in about 3 days. Hopefully he will share those numbers. Conclusion about this experience? Again, unless the need to buy my items is critical, and the buyer has deep deep pockets, I can’t see most US buyers actually buying anything from me.

Story #2. Big heavy Datsun part. So after story #1, Postal shipping is now dead to me for US customers. As luck would have it, I have an E30 head that a new friend in the US “NEEDS DESPERATELY” for a fair lady restoration. You may have seen the thread here recently. Ok, 60 lbs, big box, 2 ft + long, 9x9”, what to do. Decide to try UPS. On line estimate suggested ~$200 shipping to Ohio. Take box to local UPS Store. Beg for help, plead ignorance An hour later, paper work fill out by hand, much trouble describing the item and finding it correct HS code in the system to describe it properly, having to provide PROOF that the receiver is a US citizen (imagine him having to provide personal documents to a foreigner standing in a foreign shipping business!!!! No f‘ing way!) and FINALLY, being told that If I can’t provide commercial invoices that prove the source and valve of this item that i risk the item being ABANDONED if I try to ship and the US gov doesn’t agree with my valuation or paper work, I walked out without shipping it.

Story One. Shipping a personal gift to family friends in the US. I almost ALWAYS ship postal. Always cheapest, minimal or zero duty or brokerage charges (especially US to Canada shipping) Well, effective sometime in September I believe, there is a duty and taxes pre-shipping cost calculator application that has now inserted itself into the Canada Post shipping process. In a nut shell, shipping anything to the US requires you sign up with a company called ZONOS. This app sits between my Canada post shipping app where I make labels and pay for them, and my printer. I’ll explain. As I make the label, I (as always) I have to describe each items that I’m shipping. Now ZONOS gets in there and determines what specific trade type item each thing is and assigns a duty / tariff / tax amount to charge you. After you clear this hurdle it lets you pay for the shipping and lets you print the label. Now the fun part. First let me say, for Canada Post at least, THE SHIPPER (ME) MUST PAY THE DUTY/TARIFF/TAX, not the receiver in the US. So fine, I need to pass that cost on to the receiver by raising my shipping price. So I have to know what that cost is, right? Well I will know it, but not until I receive my monthly invoice from Zonos. NOT AT THE TIME OF SHIPPING!!! So, am I supposed to say “look, shipping is X$X today, but at the end of the month, I will ask for YY$$ more when I see your duty/tariff costs blah blah blah”. Oh I can’t ship that precious part you need for your restoration for 3 weeks while I wait to see how much that YY$ is and you send that $$. Oh and BTW, that YY$$ is going to be 500 times more than the 2$ part I’m shipping you. Are you a happy customer yet? What’s that, you don’t want that part anymore? Surprise!!!!: So back to specifics. We shipping a couple of hand made baby blankets and a bag of chips (don’t ask) to a family friend in US. Described it as a gift. Shipping costs were $25 bucks I think, but at the end of the month the Zonos invoices added $34 to MY visa. Sorry no more postal shipping to the USA

So. I have been honored to help many of you here with your projects by shipping parts to you that I’ve accumulated over the years. I’m not a business, I don’t do it to feed my family, I do it help friends with their projects and to maintain my social circles. Recently, and I know I’m not alone, I and my customers have been faced with a massive increase in costs and effort shipping items to the US. I’m about to consider abandoning this service as it appears to no longer be practical. I can’t imagine what devastation is happening to Canadian small businesses who’s customer base is US based. I’ve heard rumbling on FB forums from others about crazy costs shipping both into and out of the US. I’d like to use this venue as a place to share our shipping stories and perhaps what worked better for you, or what services or techniques to avoid. So, to begin, I’ll share two stories that I’ve recently had, to help to both illustrate the difficulties and demonstrate solutions.

I happen to have a complete E30 head that I have never been able to sell, quite a niche market for sure. I’m in Western Canada, send me a PM if you want to discuss getting it to you.

I have recently fallen in love (metaphorically) with a smoke machine lately. Very good at finding leaks. Used it on gas tanks…. Mine has an internal compressor that build lots of psi in the system of choice. Reasonable affordable. Uses mineral oil. Bit hard to see small amounts of leaking smoke, have to use a bright light and lots of different viewing angles, it doesn’t make the huge volumes of dense smoke I expected, but still very effective. I also envisioned using a thermal imaging camera at the same time to show a visual map of the leak location, will report on that some day.

Half shafts across all years are the same replaceable snap ring retained ujoints.