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S30 parts are rare and expensive. Not enough competition or volume of sales to keep the price down.

Use the wheel to get close and the brake lever for final adjustment. Tighten the wheel until the drum barely goes on, then pump the brake lever a few times. If the self-adjustment is working the lever will only come up about half-way. As you drive the car occasionally you'll notice that parking brake lever got tighter as the wheel moves a notch.

The original pump includes an inlet strainer, but I don’t think the O’Reilly’s E16078 has one. In principle it’s the same style as the Bosch 0580 254 044 that replaced the factory unit. If you want to add a pre-filter, you can install two 5/16" filters in parallel to avoid fuel starvation and prevent cavitation in the pump. Their only purpose is to protect the pump, the filter up front will protect the injectors. 280 Series Fuel pump Alternatives Rev 1.pdf

Update for all of you. We very may be in business here and you were all right - the hydraulic line was crooked/not fully seated and once I took it out and reseated it, the leak was gone. Again, I still don't understand how it didn't leak over the course of 6 years and thousands of miles, but I guess that was a good thing. I am going to bleed the brakes tomorrow just to be safe but I did bleed the master after all of this and the pedal feels good. Here are pictures of the line screwed in before, the flange/nut's condition when I took it out this evening, and how the cylinder looks now with the line in straight.

I worked on the heat shield/ cable bracket some more today. Here is the current pattern An earlier template on a piece of coil metal I glued it to piece of 16ga I had laying around A little cutting We will have to clearance it around some of the header pipes. Since it's an equal length header, they intrude on the carb area more than some We will use some stainless exhaust tube to deal with the clearanced areas. Once I finalize a design I will have sendcutsend fabricate it for me

I also got the tool covers from resurrected classics and got them installed A little nerve racking to bend the plastic hinges to mount them

Agree with Yarb on rebuilt alternators. I make the store test them before I buy one. Been burnt before with a bad one, literally. Popped all my fuses as soon as I cranked the car. If you have a volt meter or can borrow one, check the fully charged battery without the trickle charger. Mine usually reads about 12.5 volts. Then crank the car and see what the alternator is adding, should go up to 13.5-ish. Check the alternator belt to make sure it's good and tight. I always use a broom stick or similar as a pry bar to get mine tight.

Good opportunity to learn how to use a multimeter. Check voltage at idle and while raising RPM. Some of the conversion plugs from MSA have been known to melt and fail. You can get a cheap meter for cheap at a place like Harbor Freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-Function-Digital-Multimeter-59434.html

Everyone on this forum I believe has had issues with rebuilt alternators and starters. Take it to the parts store and have it checked out.

The Kiwi girlfriend has lived with me for the last 10 years. She's great I'm lucky

Looks cross threaded to me, and seems it should be threaded farther in if it weren't.

Now get some sleep. 🙂

And the magic number is 11 rotations of the cam, or 22 rotations of the crank. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62752-bright-links-on-timing-chain-line-up-every-11-rotations/

Okay, so I've received various plugs and set screws from both McMaster and Bel-Metric. I ordered 1/8 and 1/4 NPT, 1/8 and 1/4 BSPT, M12 x 1.50 straight thread and M12 x 1.50 tapered thread, and I am still a bit confused! I won't hold you hostage until the end, I'll give you what I THINK the holes were from factory, and then I'll provide some pictures and notes from my "testing". I think the factory balance tube (US market 240Z) came with 2 ea. - 1/8" BSPT and 5 ea. - 1/4" BSPT holes BALANCE TUBE 1/4" BSPT HOLES it was clear to me that 1/4" NPT is too big, couldn't really even get a thread to start, so it makes sense that, 1) One COULD force 1/4" NPT into the holes in the soft aluminum and create some sort of "seal", and 2) a hole that had been "buggered by a previous (or current!) owner could likely be salvaged by tapping to 1/4" NPT. The 1/4" BSPT plugs I have encounter resistance at 1-1/2 turns and are fairly tight at 1-3/4 - 2 turns. This leaves them sticking out farther than I would like for a clean, plugged look as I would like them to be as close to flush as possible. The M12 x 1.50 straight thread, socket set screw I tried fit very loose initially, and threaded quite a ways in (farthest of the three options I tried) before finally hitting resistance. I feel like it MIGHT have finally created a "seal", but not ideal in my opinion. The M12 x 1.50 TAPERED plug encountered resistance at about 3-1/4 turns and was fairly tight at 3-1/2 turns in. This left it pretty close to flush to the surface and provided a good seal and I think this is what I will be using to plug 1/4" BSPT holes. (see pictures below) BALANCE TUBE 1/8" BSPT HOLES it was clear to me that 1/8" NPT is too big, couldn't really even get a thread to start, so it makes sense that, 1) One COULD force 1/8" NPT into the holes in the soft aluminum and create some sort of "seal", and, 2) a hole that had been "buggered" by a previous (or current!) owner could likely be salvaged by tapping to 1/8" NPT. The 1/8" BSPT plugs I have, encounter resistance at 1-1/2 turns and are fairly tight at 2 turns in. This leaves them sticking out more than I would like for a clean look (see pictures below) now I want to experiment with M10 fine thread (both straight and tapered) in the 1/8 BSPT holes INTAKE MANIFOLD WATER HEATING HOLES The outside (inlet and outlet) holes come from the factory with 1/4" BSPT holes Again, the 1/4" BSPT plugs don't thread in very far and sit proud. The M12 x 1.50 TAPER thread plugs thread in farther and sit pretty flush for a clean look. the inner holes (two holes on the inside of each part of the two-part manifold that connects the manifold halves with "bushings" and metal tubing) come from the factory with M16 x 1.50 STRAIGHT thread. I have some M16 x 1.50 straight AND taper plugs coming to try in those holes. I'm now thinking that a straight-threaded plug with a low head and Loctited, may be the ideal ticket for this hole since there is a machined spot to accommodate a bolt head. Heck, any old M16 x 1.50 bolt will work here! Keep in mind that these holes, if not being used (not connected to water lines), can stay open, they do not need to be sealed/plugged, as they will not affect anything other than keeping the intakes warm on initial start-up in cooler weather/climates. I just want to plug them for aesthetic purposes. Here's some pictures to clarify my rambling!

I get a kick out of a big horn sound coming out of a weee Z car. 😎

Good question. Pull the parking light fuse and see if things change.

To recap...I was looking for suggestions on replacement horns for now until I get around to rebuilding the original ones. I ended up buying and installing these from Z Car Depot: https://zcardepot.com/products/horn-set-hi-lo-240z-260z-280z-510?variant=50610208964920&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17820837536&gbraid=0AAAAADgHqXssZ64ffuRLMdHFQA1WVqNee&gclid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9Ju_aM-ViE06tUtzcGp1fUrYiM7OyJd_3WeMCCfgkuDa7cRHrPUPNNsBoCRM4QAvD_BwE They do the trick. Not sure when I'll get around to diving into rebuilding the original ones, though for now I can still drive around and let people know I there. :)

I've been using a set of FIAMM air horns for about 50 years, very Euro and VERY loud!!! 😲

Absolutely! Will take me a little while, but the quality and sound were great on the test run!

Steve, though I’m sure you’re not surprised, it worked! Thank you!

It will even both sides out. It affects the adjustment of the shoes so will affect the brake pedal. Can't remember for sure but I think that you will also feel the brakes apply a little higher on the pedal after a notch gets taken up. It's one reason that seems rational for converting to disc brakes if you're in to precise brake performance. Should emphasize though that you need to be sure the parts are clean, lubricated, and not worn, in order for the system to work correctly. You can test it with a drum off by pulling the cable by hand and watching the parts move, I think.

Green/White = Positive for gauge lights Red/Blue = Returns gauge lights to the rheostat (gauge light dimmer) Blue = Accessory (Key Switched) Constant power would be come from the cigarette lighter (Blue/White)

Okay, I'm going to assume the battery is disconnected. Put the key in ON. Put your meter on resistance. If there is more than one setting, put it on the lowest setting. Put the positive lead on the black/white wire at the ballast resistor. Put the negative lead on the white/black wire at the T connector. (Yes, you'll probably need some help. Record the reading and report back. Swap the leads and remeasure. Record the reading and report back.

I finished cleaning the cigarette lighter up today Straightened up the bracket and blasted it. Blasted the bottom ceramic with the prongs and polished the chrome rim

Here's an old thread about a similar problem. (Edit - man, I wrote a lot of stuff back then.)

@Mike Might want to have a look here.

OK so my girlfriend who has a New Zealand accent can get 50%. :) On another note, it's starting to look like there's a scammer in the community. bww 5325 who's only posted twice and joined November 15th Told me about Suly38B@gmail.com who claimed to have a gas tank and long story shorter I sent him $300 December 1st and he's gone radio silent on me.

If you get 95% STT you're doing great. I struggle to get 50% with my Southern background ;)

Yes, the front turn signals have gotten expensive and used ones can be rough because they're close to the ground

Sounds like you don't agree 100%. We're just offering possibilities. It's actually more interesting to some of us that the fitting was 3/4 turn loose and did not leak sooner. If it was mine I'd pull that line and make sure I didn't need more parts before starting the MC replacement. Might find out that you don't need a new MC, you actually need a new hard line.

Yeah, you're right, it does look crooked...I wonder how it didn't leak for 6 years if it was like this. I'll install the new master this weekend anyhow since I already bought it and report back on the state of the threads, etc.

The angle of the brake line tubing itself should be straight going in. You need to manipulate that line where its dead center going in. You mentioned it didn’t leak before but I think you may have had luck on your side.

Sure! It is leaking where the brake line bolt screws into the master cylinder on the forward reservoir (the one that manages the rear drum brakes)

That’s going to be the market price you will find for new reproduction’s. Try Resurected Classic.’s. This time of year you might find a deal but you will probably stay in that range.

The rear reservoir would be for the front brakes. Unless you mean the reservoir for the rear brakes when you say rear reservoir. Neither reservoir should be pressurized. The pressure should only be created by the pistons in the MC bore. If you had moisture in the brake fluid it wouldn't be a surprise to have corrosion in the bore after 6 years. Then when you pushed the pedal to the floor you might have damaged the rubber seal inside. So, loose fitting allows reservoir ro leak dry, pedal goes to floor because of it, damaging MC seals, new MC leak looks like old fitting leak. Should have got that fitting tight the first time. Seems like it was very loose. Oh well.

It's also possible that the metal to metal seal of the brake line was damaged when you changed the MC the first time. Pretty common for the tube to twist with the fitting when the fitting is loosened. The only way to be sure is to examine the parts. A magnifying glass and bright lights help. Take a close look and you'll see where the actual sealing surface is. A spec of foreign matter can screw things up. Something to be aware of if you do change the MC. The threads don't do the sealing, they just do the clamping. You can see the cone that fits inside the end of the tube in this image from Rockauto. That's the sealing surface.

It's more likely that your MC seals have blown.

The reason I mess up when talking about ChatGPT with my colleagues on campus…

The nut on the brake line into the master cylinder is a metal on metal seal. If you have factory lines or CuNi lines then you should be able to get it to seal. If they're stainless, they can be much harder to get sealed

If the paint on the booster below the mounts of the MC has been eaten away sounds like the master is bad. Start there. Seating the lines on the master cylinder can be tricky.

I made mine as tight as I could on the slack side, the one that curves. I pushed the tensioner in all the way and put a zip-tye on it then pushed the curved guide as tight as I could and tightened it down. For some reason I'm thinking there's a white plastic washer that goes on the tensioner between the housing and the pad but it's not visible in my picture. Maybe you can confirm that and don't forget the oil slinger that goes on the crank nose.

The FSM describes how to adjust the horn sound and its actually very simple (screw on the back with a locking nut). Not saying they'll sound like a Jag, but altering the way they sound is possible. I believe each horn is set to a different tone.

It was nice to see truthful information about this issue from another experienced person to cut through the character assassination that passes for knowledge from some of the members of this page.

It is also important not to mix adjusters from one side to the other, as I believe they are handed

You could get either in a 77. The numbers don't mean anything. Your picture is not very good. Here's some FSM stuff that should help.

Up front in the area of the console look for blue tape around the wire harness. That's where you should find the female plug with 2 wires. Put a jumper across the plug and you should then have power back at the tank for the electric pump. It's a good idea to put an inertia switch in the jumper loop to shut off the pump in the event of a crash.

🤣 OMG... I used to do that... Thank goodness I haven't seen a phone cord in decades!