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Everything posted by EuroDat

  1. In his video and ad you can see the red spring. It is what they call the stage three. What does stage I, II, and III mean? Basically it mean a lightish, medium and heavier spring which means more pressure and faster reaction time. There was quiet a discussion on the stages back in the nineties. Many manufactures with varying spring rates. If you don't drill out the ports, you will not achieve full "stage III" benefits because the porting will restrict flow. It will probably limit the benefits of the stage II spring. You could just fit the spring and not drill the ports. It will work, but to maximum effect. By the way. If you drive it normally, light throttled, you won't notice much difference if any. Full throttle gear changes is where it becomes very noticable. Remember, you are only doing the modulator spring. The torque convertor is still standard, so it won't be big changes. It will stillbe very drivable, just sportier.
  2. A little searching and I found Tim on Gumtree. Still selling these kits. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/gladstone/engine-engine-parts-transmission/vl-turbo-commodore-nissan-datsun-jatco-automatic-shift-kit-servic/1021151782 You are probably looking for datsun or nissan, but you might find more by looking for the VL commodore. If you want to know a little more about these transmissions, you could ask the guys on the justcommodores.com.au forum or seach their forum for more info.
  3. I think the shifter kit was originally design for the holden commodore VL with the 3.0litre inline six. Well the Holden guys were the ones that started playing with them, more than the Skyline guys. The 280ZX has the Jatco 3N71B and the VL commodoe had the RB30 and RB30ET with the 4N71B. The kit is basically a spring kit to replace the pressure modulator spring in valve body and therefore incease fluid pressure. You will also ned to drill some ports to accomidate the extra flow to aid the faster change over. Repco use to sell the springs back in the day and I can still remember a detailed write up in a magazine called "Street Machine Magazine" based in Sydney. The couple people I helped do back in the nineties were definitely happy with the "sporty" improvement. The transmission changes quicker with little slip in the change over phase. It can feel harsh if you are use to the original style it changed gear. The bands and clutches tend to wear less after the change. This is most probably due to the limited slip time in gear change. Less slip, less wear. There is a guy on youtube "VLTim" that made these kits. Not sure if he still does. He does not show drilling out the port in the video, but I'm sure there is a video somewhere on youtube. I might have some old photos somewhere. The kits made a noticable difference in the commodores. A lot of aftermarket companies use to make them in the nineties.
  4. In the workshop where I worked (a long time ago), we always used the plastigage and left that table for what it is. Far too easy to make mistakes taking measurements. I would torque it down to specs when taking the measurements. The gasket will still seal when you do the final assembly. Don't use any glue on the gasket went doing your measurements. If you are fitting the front cover + gasket + shim (0.4mm original) and getting a reading of 0.37mm on the plastigage, I would opt for a total shim size of 0.7mm. Don't go over the total measurement with your shims. The bearings have (small) clearances and with the pastigage you are pushing the bearing to the most rear position. You don't want to push the bearing into a pre-loaded position so a little bit of free play won't hurt.
  5. Good point, but in Patcon's case he most likely pushed it back as far as it would go when he tried the thicker shim.
  6. When you are calculating bearings, which is not an exact science, tolerances can effect bearing clearances. Too much interference fit etc and incorrect axial clearance. The C3 clearance specification is a radial spec, but comes close to the axial movement in the deep groove single row bearing. In this case you are in the 13 to 28um or 0.013 to 0.028mm range. The shim 0.003in is 0.076mm and that is binding the bearings. I would fit it without shims. It is beter to have a little axial clearance than actually having a axial pre-load on the bearings. That would shorten the bearing life. When you say "it locks the tranny up" you mean it makes it hard to turn and feels like a bearing is bad? It's not actually locking up and will not rotate at all. ISO Bearing clearances.pdf
  7. After all that work they put the old bumpers back on🤐 Gives me the impression that it really was a low budget resto. Under the conditions they were working in they managed a decent restoration, all be it the car wasn't in that bad a shape to start with.
  8. I'm not an expert on the issue, but my experience on the ZX distributors is as follows. There are two (three for Fed) "main" design differences in the 280Z and 280ZX distributors. 1. The 280Z Cal and Fed a 6 pronged star wheel would pass a single fixed magnetic sensor and induse a pulse to trigger the TIU. The Fed had dual fixed magnetic sensors. One sensor was retarded 7 degrees and the TIU used it during warm up phase. The magnetic sensor only gets one prong to induse a pulse. This gives a weak signal starting at 0.5 VAC at cranking and reaching somewhere around 8 to 12VAC above 3500rpm. Well 12 VAC was the best I could get out of three units in my dodgy test with a drill in a bench vice. 2. The 280ZX (non turbo) has a fixed magnetic ring with 6 prongs pointing inward and the rotor has a matching 6 pronged star wheel. When the rotor star aligns with the 6 fixed magnetic prongs it generates a magnetic pulse through the spool located under the magnetic ring. The voltage signal activates the TIU. Typical cranking voltage is 1.0 to 1.5 VAC and goes up to around 50volts as rpm increase. 3. Location of the TIU. The 280Z has an external bulky TIU located at the passengers kick panel. The 280ZX has a compact (matchbox) sized TIU mounted on the side of the distributor. The 280ZX is not the best location for the TIU. Heat is your enemy so lets mount the TIU between the radiator and the nr.1 exhaust manifold☹ Usefull info: If you are looking for parts. The pickup in the 280Z is the same as the early L20B (75-78) EI distributor. You can also use the L20B TIU LX507 or LX512, but on the 75 - 77 280Z you will need the TIU connector plug to connect it and replace the coil and ballast with a 12V version. The L20B after 78 had the matchbox TIU like the early 280ZX. It will work on the 280ZX distributor. Both types of distributor will trigger the GM 4-pin HEI module. The GM HEI requires a minimum of 0.3VAC to activate. Altough the 280Z has a poor (low) voltage pulse during cranking it will still be enough to trigger the HEI.
  9. Ok, now I get it. It was dragging on the low clearance in the thrust bearing and after adjusting the clearance it turned freely. Nice work.
  10. Charles, I not sure I'm reading that right. You couldn't realy turn the crank without the pistons and now with the extra resistance (piston rings rubbing the bore) it's doable? I like your carefull approach to assembly and checking everything thoroughly as you go. Enjoy your rebuild with Cody.
  11. Just for the info. I'm on holiday in france and not online much atm. The GM HEI 4-Pin have current limiting abilities. It is designed for a 0.6ohm 12volt coil, but will run fine up to 1.5ohm. Any higher ohm rating will risk open circuiting the hei module. I used my HEI module for 5 years without every having any issues with it. My original module would give up when it was hot. Had to spray itwith circuit cleaner to cool it and it would run for another ten minutes. Location of your module looks good. Best to get as far away from external heat sources.
  12. Hi Charles, You are checking the clearance with a gasket? You have about 0.3mm difference. Seems a lot.
  13. Highly likely an Australian Skyline head. They wre also in Japan, but I don't know that market at all. Skylines in Aus used the E88 on the L24(E) engines and later the (M)N47 heads. The 260Z never had efi in Australia. They had the 260Z untill the 280ZX came along.
  14. I worked out a method to test the system for leaks back when I was having this problem. It ended up being the check valve at the fuel pump. Sounds like it could be your FPR, but new parts or rebuilt/refurbised parts can also leak. It's here in Resourses --> Knowledge Base --> Fuel system
  15. The alignment tool hangs on the spigot bearing and can actually mis-alignment. Insert the tool again and check the pressure plate finger around the tool are equally speced. Pay special attention directly above and under the tool are equal. If not equal, loosen the pressure plate and adjust accordingly. I wouldn't force it in. You can gently pull it in using threaded bar, but be gentle. You can scrape a thin layer off the inner side of the spigot bearing. That can cause unbalance.
  16. It doesn't need to be any larger than the the bushing for 5th. The shim is very thin so it would be best if it didn't rub on the neddle bearing cage. If you can get it down below the cage, that it would be fine. It should not contact the 5th gear at all.
  17. Hi Charles, Your photos are showing the input shaft or main drive gear. Looking closely at your 2nd gear measurement, you might be meauring 3rd, it's hard to tell. The 2nd and 3rd clearances are next to each other. You actually measure the gears clearance between the gears and the shoulder on the main shaft, in the same area. I hope that makes some sense. In the photo the feeler gauge should be in the same area for 2nd and 3rd, just either side of the shoulder. Push the 3rd gear forward to check its clearance and the 2nd gear towards the back of the transmiassion. I marked the exploded view in blue where the clearance is measured. The red arrows are the measurements in your photo. Hope my artistic scribble is clear. I'm on a tablet, well that will be my excuse😁 Your fab work on the shim looks great.👍
  18. Hi Charles. Not sure what you mean by this, but if it's the cluster shaft bearing or cluster shaft it should be in its most rear position when you use the Plastigauge to check clearance.
  19. The fifth gear clearance can be corrdcted by adding shim stock between the washer (pos 21) and overdrive gear bushing (pos 20). Shim stock thickness 0.01 (0.25mm) is easy to cut with tin cutters. You could try to find shim washers the right size. Google "shim washers din 988". Go for the right inner diameter if you can't find one with the right dimensions. Trimming the outer diameter is easier than the inner diameter.
  20. I just checked my plastigauge stock and the brand Plastigauge would be green (PL-C) for the clearance 0.175 to 0.5mm. It is easy to use. Just break off a couple of short 15mm lengths and place them on the bearing. Place the plastigauge on one of the cage humps across to the outer race. You can hold it in place with a dab of play-doe on the cage section. Bolt on the front cover with gasket to the correct torque. Open it up gentle and don't twist the cover. The section of plastagauge over the outer race will be flatter than the rest. Use the gauge setting on the packet to determine clearance. Plenty of videos on youtube. If you can't find any plastagauge, PM me.
  21. Easiest way to gain the right clearance on the rear gear is to add a shim between the large washer (in your photo you are holding it with your finger and thumb). If you buy the thin brass shim stock you can cut a washer with a good pair of scissors. Add the shim stock to the gear side of the washer to add clearance. When I'm home I will take some photos of what I mean with Plastagauge and how to use it on the bearing.
  22. The front bearing shim is important for distributing the axial forces over the two cluster shaft bearings. No shim and the bearing in the adapter plate has to carry all the forces and waer faster. You can determine the shim thickness using plastagauge. I thick the yellow (0,2 to 0,4) would be best choice I think. The clearance on 5th gear is very tight and will probably cause lubricating issues
  23. It's in the right way. It wont fit the other way. The other end where the selector rod passes through colides with 3rd and 4th when you fit the fork on backwards. If you feel comfortable wiring the forks it shouldn't do any harm. I take it you want to wire them because you're worried they might fall out or work their way out. They shouln't fall out that easy. I have only ever seen two 71B with them double pinned like @Zed Head said. One was for a rally car and the other was unknown.
  24. None of the original bearings were sealed. If you source aftermarket o-rings and seals, make sure they are NBR or viton (FKM / FPM).
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