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Everything posted by EuroDat

  1. I this photo you are looking at the piston. Going by your remarks it looks like you have not removed the piston to check if everything is clean inside and free of any machine filings. I would do that before going any further. You can push it out buy removing the two mounting bolts and pumping the clutch pedal slowly to push it out. When the piston comes out, disconnect the hose and clean the slave cylinder. Don't re-use the fluid that comes out as it could contain contaminants. A lot going on in this thread. Also refering to Zed Heads comments: This thread started with a new leaking slave cylinder. That is the first issue that should be addressed.
  2. His last photos are of the early (pre 73) type slave cylinder. You can see the tab next to the hose used as an anchor point for the spring. That early type slave cylinder does not have an internal spring. The rod should fit with the lock nut and dome nut on the slave cylinder side of the clutch fork. If that is not the case then there is an issue with the geometry. The first thing that comes to mind is a mis matched throw out bearing collar and pressure plate. These days it is a common probleem. Or the clutch fork has popped out of the spring clip and now not seated properly in the pivit ball in the bell housing. @Wally You now have the correct slave cylinder for your clutch fork. I would remove the slave cylinder and check the clutch fork is working correctly before going any further. Remove the rubber dust boot and check the pivot. If that is ok I would think about correctly the position of the nuts. Maybe cut more thread on the rod? To adjust the push rod: Adjust the nut until no free play. Push the clutch peadal in two to three times to settle everything. Adjust nut to remove any free play. Then back the nut off 2 full turns. Lock the nut using the thin lock nut. That will give you about 2.5 to 3mm play at the clutch fork - push rod. The bearing - pressure plate will then have about 2mm free play.
  3. Can you post some photos of the new slave cylinder. I'm not sure I understand what happened: "It felt like the rod broke through that inset, round black cup a little" Maybe the piston seal was damaged when the piston was fitted into the cylinder bore.
  4. HI Jeff, The size is not any standard O-ring size which makes it hard to find a supplier. You could try an AS standard o-ring. The AS568 standard is very common in the USA. Ask for a AS568-119 (23.47x2.62mm). The cross section is a little bigger, but the o-ring also has a slightly smaller ID which will compensate. If the cross section is too thick and you can't fit the adapter without damaging the o-ring an alternative would be one size smaller AS568-118 (21.89x2.62mm). When you stretch the o-ring out to ID 24 it will reduce the cross section size enough to fit. O-ring Standards Overzicht.pdf O-ring sizes.pdf
  5. It should be 24mm ID. O-ring are measurdd by inside diameter on a general rules. I have an international o-ring list. It might help with finding onethat comes close. Like @siteunseen said close is good enough as long as is is not too small.
  6. Your setup is now a little different from the original setup. You have a 71 clutch fork with the later version slave cylinder. I would remove the external spring and adjust it like I described above.
  7. You shouldn't be using the external spring with that slave cylinder. They changed the slave cylinder design in the 73 model 240Z. Up to 73 they used a external return spring. In 73 they went to a internal spring (in the slave cylinder) and it didn't require any adjustment during the life of the clutch disc. How to adjust it? Adjust the push rod until all free play is gone. Then screw the ball headed nut another two turns. Lock it with the lock nut. Check it by pushing the clutch fork into the slave cylinder. It should push about 10 to 12mm. When you let it go it should return and have no free play. Another thing. You will most probably have to shorten the push rod or cut more thread to get to a range suitable for the slave cylinder. If you want to keep the external spring do this. Make a plate out of 2mm steel to fit behind the slave cylinder mounting bolts. Bend it at 90 degrees directly behind the slave cylinder. The spring can connect to this bracket. I have a drawing if you want to do this. Once you have done that dismantle the slave cylinder and remove the internal spring. It will now work like the early version.
  8. O-ring size is 24x2.5mm (ID x Cross section). NBR or Viton material. O-
  9. Yes, totally agree with @Zed Head The quality of these after market parts is low, as is the assembly of said parts. It sounds like they damaged the piston cup seal during assembly. Whether the cup seal lip caught on the side during assembly or machine sworth damaged it you will only know by dismantling it. If you take it back for another, make sure you dismantle the new one and clean it properly before use. Ask them for some grease suitable for EPDM rubber, it is usually red in color, to lubricate the seal when assembling. You are using a spring on the fork. Is the slave cilinder for the 240Z or the later 280Z version. You can't use a spring on the later 280Z versions because they have and internal spring and the two springs work against each other. You can use the adjustable fork with the later 280Z version, just needs a little attention on how to adjust it properly.
  10. I think you mean 5th to Reverse. The reverse lockout was developed to stop people hitting reverse when coming back from 5th to 4th gear. That is one of the reasons reverse gears are zo badly chipped in the ealy model 5 speed.
  11. I'm no expert at rust repairs, but the floor does have a degree of structual rigidity and riviting the patches may compromise that. @grannyknot has done a couple of S30 restorations and knows more about this than I ever would. Maybe he can enlighten me at least.
  12. My wife took my 280Z for a test drive once and I doubt she will ever do that again. We almost missed the driveway. When she finally parked is and rattled of your top ten plus "stupid car has no power steering". Her last remark was; I can't beleive you wasted all your time on that...
  13. Does it make any other noises. It still could be a broken transmission mount or front engine mount. The knocking you are hearing could be exhaust pipe banging against transmission cross member.
  14. A couple of photos. One of the old brewing house (no longer in use) and a filler carousel getting a new main center bearing
  15. That is a nice system you have John. I don't think there is any true bolt in system. They all need tweeking somewhere. I have an abart system and it will need some mods to connect to the down pipe.
  16. Indeed, could be a mix up with the mustache bar. According to the parts manual they changed in 73, but after that they should be the same as the ones in my photo. I also have a 1977 280Z, but can't garantee originality. You can search for parts on this site. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-suspension/21
  17. Hi @280zxSpectrum Don't be too offended by the comments on this forum. It's just some members having a little fun. It's known as "posting to a zoombie thread". I made the same misstake on another forum and the admin, name starting wit T and ending with D gave me a trashing. Anyway, welcome to the club. Once you get use to us, some of us can be a little like the two old guys in the muppets, you will be fine. I see on your profile you are a brewer. Hobby, boutique of commercial brewer? Just being curious, I work for, dare I say, Heineken.
  18. Did you change the compression rod achor points? Pos 21. See two in center of photo.
  19. Yeah, That is the thread alright. I remember first reading it about ten years ago and made a copy for my own use, just can't seem to find it I have not found anything serious dating before this thread. It looks like this might be the first seriously thought out explanation. @siteunseen Thanks for posting the link.
  20. Yeah, I like his fix for the idle. Attack the AFM with a dremel to increae air flow at idle. And then fix the next problem you created when the AFM vane drops to low and cuts the fuel pump....
  21. Yeah, I got that too. Kind of doctor Jekyll and mr Hide theme. Sorry officer, I just lost control for a minute. Not the car, just lost control of myself.
  22. I remember a guy on Hybridz that did a lot of testing and wrote an instruction on how to tune the standard L28 efi system. His conclusion was the standard efi manifold was your biggest challenge to improving the horsepower performance. He measured the internal diameter of the runners and his conclusion was the runner were somewhere around 55% of the intake valve. The N42/47 being maginally worse than the P82. The turbo manifolds being slightly better. I don't think he was saying the efi system was not tunable, just the intake manifold was already at its limit and would limit the benifit of any "more than moddest" modifications. I think he went by the naame Braap on Hybridz, but it's going 10 years back. I think I coppied the tutorial he wrote. I'm on holiday atm, can't seem to find it on my tablet.
  23. Im 100% with dutchzcarguy. It looks a lot like reflection and hone cross hatch and that is a good sign. If you can't see any vertical scores in the bores, it shouls be ok. Nissan had a good reputation with the iron they used in the blocks.
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