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Proof I made it! This is at the judged show. I wasn't ever able to register though because I think it was full. But the zcon organizers liked the car and told me to park it on the show field anyway. Im honored!!

Took the Z to a show at a local Chevy dealer. When I pulled in the dealership owner said "We never see these cars, I want you parked at the entrance".

Well I made it! Got in late and just laid low. Had a beer with my local Z buddy from home. We met along the way for the last leg near Nashville. Man was that a long trip. But we made it!!!!!! I'm not sure which surprised me more with the success... Me, or the car!!😃

Installed the freshly restored seats in the orange 72

The way my insurance policy is with Hagerty's if it catches on fire I'm breaking out the weenies and marshmallows and enjoy the bonfire. But my luck some dumbass would stop and put it out before a total loss.

So just a little progress of working on my 1972 240Z that I’ve resurrected twice now since I’ve owned it from 2005 or so ..it’s been a long project and not perfect but it was my daily driver . This is where it sat for 8 years untouched next to my 1988 Toyota pickup in December 2024 All loaded up for the 1500 mile return trip in my 1986 f350 diesel I pulled from a field for 500 bucks a year earlier Once I got it home I got it running pretty easy but noticed an immediate problem in the form a rattling noise from the timing cover to discover a broken tensioner and missing bolts . After that issue was fixed I decided it was time to install my big brake kit I got from a junk yard 260z about 15 years ago .. don’t know who made the brackets but the calipers and rotors are from a 90’s corvette .. 12 inch rotors too ..don’t worry about the wheel studs they have been replaced since It also needed the carbs tuned As you can see they were way off plus I discoved the carbs were loose too ..explained why the erratic idle lol I just had to get a star road shift knob Radio was full or rodent crap and figured why not add a wide band afr gauge from auto meter in its place along with my driving light switch ..I still haven’t cleaned the marker off Also had to make my own headlight relay upgrade to run flosser h4 90/100watt ralley lights It’s an L28 with N47 head from a 1979 280ZX upgrades include 45dcoe triple Webbers . Msa 3 into 2 headers msa stage 3 schneider cam along with schneider valve springs Holley blue fuel pump . Kameari Racing distributor and fidanza light flywheel with centerforce clutch . Also running a single grove dampener . I will get the engine rebuilt in the future and get it up to 10.1 cr so maybe I’d get more out of the mods I have ..but still runs great and sounds amazing .

A little late jumping into this conversation. I have been "out of contact" on holiday which I do every so often going internet dark for a few days in my effort to get away from it all. Often, I travel to Europe but I just returned from several days in coastal Maine and that northern wilderness. We were hiking and boating. Reading up on this discussion, I thought I would chime in on some of the issues mentioned. Nissan contracted with four private restoration shops during the Vintage Z program. Pierre Z in Hawthorn, California completed by far the most restorations, however Classic Datsun Motorsports of Vista, California, Datsun Ally of Signal Hill, and Old Car Service of Huntington Beach were also involved. Datsun Ally and Classic Datsun Motorsports prepared two cars each. I don't know how many Old Car Service prepared. Engines were rebuilt and provided by AER Manufacturing in Arington, Texas as transmissions came from Williams Technology of Summerville, South Carolina. Pierre Z rebuilt the units for the first restoration only as Nissan contracted thereon. They were assembled units, crate shipped, including everything except carburetors, generators, cooling fan and hoses, and exhaust manifold to the best of my knowledge. Part management was coordinated through Pete Evanow of Nissan N.A. and there were documents related to car assessment, part orders, and quality control however these were internal project documents related to the management of the project cars and not released with any of the cars. I actually have part order documents for cars that were never restored. Concerning CAD plating: The yellow / gold coloring that we associate with "CAD" is a chromate conversion coating applied over the plated metal, yielding the familiar gold color. A similar appearance can be achieved with a similar chromate conversion over silver zinc which is far less toxic and not easily discernible from a cadmium base electroplate. Cadmium electroplating on its own is not yellow. I believe that what we see on cars today is yellow chromate zinc. True cadmium electroplating is not easily found or inexpensive. We all seem to call it "CAD" but that's probably a term we use for the color and not AS 9100 certified or ASTM A165, SAE AMS 2400 specification. Finally, Nissan N.A. didn't just decide to restore a bunch of 240Zs; they schemed up an ad campaign to keep the Z legend in North America alive while Nissan discontinued their current model Z with only the promise to deliver a new design some time in the future. The goal was not to create 'restorations' but deliver complete, running examples of the original car with 12,000 mile warranties. They had to rely on private repair businesses to accomplish their goal with a parts inventory that could not sustain the project. But they pulled it off! Cudos to the businesses and people who contributed to the effort. The cars are quite valuable now, and it is always exciting to see one because the story behind it is one of the best automotive sales campaign stories. Especially after the blunder of dropping the Datsun brand, I opine. So, I did the research project / compendium in 2005. I have a huge digital file of stuff as well as a fairly good library of literature. I have a vhs video that Pierre gave me in 200? that has Mr. K's visit during the restoration program. I don't have any printed , bound copies at the moment. I hear some interest for copies of stuff I have. I'm going to get some copies of the compendium made. Stay tuned.

Todays event... I put a160 degree thermostat in. Didn't expect it would help anything, and it didn't. But just for completeness, I had to. So cut some gaskets from sheet with the scissors that came from the first aid kit and the hole punch borrowed from the hotel lobby desk. Haha!

@Yarb has been trying to track down an electrical problem…

When you are walking back to your car at a rest stop and see a puddle under it. Then you get close and realize it's just a condensate puddle from the AC of the guy in that spot before you. Phew!!

Time for another update: I spent the last couple of days in the Workshop and installed all the hood alignment parts, so the body shop can properly align the hood. I also put back all bolts to the body panels, since they were missing after I had to remove a lot of things for alignment and rework. Not much to see, but all panels are now secured for transport. Slowly, but steady, t starts to look like a complete car again. Well - there is still a lot of work. Next, i decided to test fit the side markers, just to be sure the holes are still correct. I assembled to mock-ups from various used and NOS parts which I had. And installed: (Note plastic wrap on the NOS lens, to protect it) Now the big project. The rear spoiler. As you can see, the inner bolts are missing (compare holes with the missing bolt, left): I thought it had probably rotted away in the past, so they just removed it. That made me want to drill back a hole to install a new one, but it seems the previous owner just cut off the previous bolts and the metal part was still inside the spoiler mounting position. Luckily, I was able to drill out the remains of the old studs by starting with a very thin drill and then working the size up until the original 4mm: I made myself some new bolts from some M4 screws: While sanding off the area to glue back in the new bolts, I found a crack underneath the various layers of bondo, primer and paint, which the spoiler has collected over the years: Now also that glue-remains on the inside made sense:, which chipped off like nothing, once hammered: I was able to clean the whole area And then glue both the crack and the bolts back in with some two-component epoxy glue: The result is not bad, if you ask me. It appears to be quite strong, too: Next, I wanted to get back the holes for the original emblems. After sanding the areas, I finally found some black dots, which is probably black filler, which they used to fill the original holes: While trying to tap-mark the holes for drilling, the black filler bits just popped out. So I only used the drill to clean the holes to correct size. Lucky me :-) And the Emblems can go back again, as intended from the factory: Last but not least, I spent quite some hours today to sand off those dozens (!!) of layers of filler, primer and paint from all the years. You might wonder why? Because in some areas the paint and filler is so thick, that the spoiler almost has a different shape. I'm almost done, but still need to spend a few hours. But it appears I was able to save another Original part for the car, and I hope I can install it back soon...

Hi! Additional info, our cars naturally have power source for the fog lights in the wiring harness. Kats

With the additional pics, I stand by the assessment that it's a Fall 1970 car with a rolled over odometer. It'a no "survivor" requiring a minor wash and buff. It's got all the wear and modifications and aftermarket parts that are typical with such a car. Oh, and a poorly applied re-paint. The annoying part is that the seller knows that some of the major claims in his listing are false. And he hasn't changed it. I do think, however, if he cleaned it all up and took copious good quality pictures, it would do better. As it sits, I don't think it's going to sell. And I think the seller knows it. I think at this point, it has become a test. Just to see what happens. If I didn't know better and bought that car, and then found this thread later?? Man, I'd be upset.

Over the last few days, I was busy in my workshop, getting some small tasks completed on my Z project. Time for a little update. After installing the partial gearbox to test fit the brackets and stuff, I realized that the gear lever is too much in the front of the hole: A quick look into the manual made it clear: I had mounted the lever the wrong way. So, gear box rear-end out, gear lever corrected: And back in, this time, correctly: Then I spent a lot of time at the rear end of the car. I had to clean the holes for the three taillight panels, so that the plastic rivets would lock properly. After that i re-installed the taillights, and ensured the sealing rubbers were set correctly, using my "string-trick": Next i have to finish the slightly worn chrome / metal trim around the taillight panels and get them back on: While working at the rear, i decided to install all those fasteners, stoppers, alignment pieces, guides, etc. Like those rubber spacers: And trunk dampers. I have a NOS set of everything, so the installed ones are only temporary, to not mess up the new ones: And the last bit at the rear end was to align the trunk / hatch. The body shop had installed some spacers to get it straight, but after all the parts got installed, I had to remove them again and massage a few areas lightly to have it all aligned: Next? Seat rails. I had those Bride seat rails from my Histrix lying around for a while and wanted to test-fit them. I'm most probably going to use something different setup in the end, but I wanted to ensure that the distance and position of the seat mounting brackets was right after all the bodywork. I thought the best way was to use the original seat rail mounting studs and spacers. Since I had several highly-damaged OEM seats, I hammered out the fasteners and used the plastic spacers after grinding away the factory spot-welds on the bolts. This worked unexpectedly well, so now I can do some trials with different seats, rails and setups - to figure out what will go into the car in the end. Next: I realized that I didn't have any upper rear number plate light in my part collection. Luckily, Florian from Datsun-Autowerk was kind enough to send me one of his broken ones including some other parts (more on that in a following post), for trials. After puzzling and glueing all the parts together... I could mock it up all together and drill the required holes. Fun-fact: I always thought that slight "dent" in the gray metal piece was a production fault of the reproduction panel, but it's actually there to make space for the number plate lighting bolt. After the holes were done and cleaned, I got the upper plastic part installed. And then the whole thing with the lens. Note all bolts and the light itself are temporary units for the mock-up only, final parts will be correct and fresh. Looks good if you ask me! Special thanks to the person who gave me the hint with the holes (I wasn't able to find the mail anymore, but you know who you are!) And then? Spoiler-Alert. Again. After i realized that the currently installed spoiler is beyond repair, I remembered that I had another one lying around. But it was bent in all directions and super wobbly: But all the brackets were still in good shape, so I gave them a little wire wheel brush and corrosion protection: I placed them on our terrace, which tends to get quite hot now in summer And let it take the heat every day. My thought was that the Polyurethane gets weak and goes either back in its natural shape by itself, or can be massaged. At the end, some areas turned out to be pretty stiff, even with heat and required some proper bending over my special bending bench :-) It didn't really work out. It's way better than in the beginning, but still super wobbly. I thought if i'd install it on the car, it might straighten itself a bit. Let's see. I have my doubts. The good thing is, there seems to be another spoiler on the horizon :-) I've seen worse ones, but yeah. Not good enough for me: I also went through my plated fasteners and sorted them a bit. I got various boxes over the years from various collectors and Z-specialists, so it was about time to ensure I find what I'm looking for :-) The to-do list gets smaller by the week. And there's not much left from my side, but some tricky bits. I guess I've earned my favorite Japanese "Hitachino Nest" beer for today.

Countdown!! I got 100 miles on it: And those 100 test miles made it clear that I need front struts:

Changed out fuel filters from 2015 when I did all the work on my 240. Anyone that may be on the fence about Red-Kote fuel tank liner, done the right way it's fantastic from what these filters show or don't show. Heres the G2 right out of the tank. It looked great besides being 10 years old. Fuel came out clear to as I drained out about a gallon before my dumbasss realized the hose on the tank had to be clamped off. Lawnmower gas.😊 I haven't fooled with mine since a knee surgery sidelined me but after @Captain Obvious's heroic adventure got me fired up enough to at least do something. If that beer guzzling rascal can do what he did, ain't nobody got an excuse.😂

Thanks for the continued support guys! The car has a total of 71000 miles. And looking at the condition, it's a true 71000. So it's typical sketchy details when buying something like this used, but it appears the odometer has not rolled over. And of those miles, I've put about 1400 of them on since I got the car on the road. 400 before departing for Nashville, and about 1000 to got here.

On the south side of Knoxville. Letting him cool off for a little bit. Anyone from the forum there who would like to have a beer with a weary traveler tonight?

I'm in Christiansburg, VA. About halfway to Nashville. Travel has been OK. Only problem with the OG is the temps keep creeping up. The radiator needs work. It's right at the borderline at about 65 mph. If I try to run above that, the radiator runs out of compliance and the temps creep up. So I'm finding that I have to keep the speed between 60 and 65. Not ideal, but considering this car hasn't seen the road in 45 years, it's doing great. More news as it develops.

Thank goodness for U-Haul and credit cards. At worst you rent a truck and trailer. I drove a "crotch rocket" to the French Quarter one time and there was no way in hell I was riding it back home. Got the smallest van and loaded that bike up. 😄

Been playing with metal laser sintered 3D printers lately and wanted to create a stainless 240Z gearknob. Went through a number of iterations and ended up with this design. It's the same size and shape as the original 1970 240Z 4 speed one. Will be running the first metal prints next week, will be interesting to see how it turns out. 3 Z logos are engraved on the main part of the body, the original gearchange pattern is enlarged in size to print more cleanly than the original smaller one.

@Patcon the exterior will print smooth, it's a graphics display issue and how SolidWorks saves the .stl file. When you slice it for printing the surface is rendered smoothly. Will post a picture of the first sample print when it's done, I'll do a trial piece in laser sintered nylon first. This is a sample off the Prusa 3D printer in SLA, much smoother than the graphic rendering. With laser sintering it uses powder to print the object so the layer lines and polygons are smoothed out. These are for my own use, I have no plans to sell them.

Sure I'm open to suggestions!! The T/C rod stuff looks fine. They are snug and there is rubber in there. And about the locks... Early car single sided keys, and yes, he doors, hatch, and even the glove box work!

Hello, I'm a new member here as of today. I've been driving and enjoying the ride for some 40+ yrs I worked (more like moonlighted) on the Restoration Program for Pierre in 1997 at Pierre Z Service Center in LA. I worked on the Rick Cole 240Z Car, that was auctioned in Pebble Beach which at the time was the first Japanese sports car to ever roll across the auction block. We used the best pieces and parts from approximately 15-20 Z's in the build cycle to recreate one Z car. That was the time of my life, building 240Z's by day and DC-9's by night working 16-18 hrs a day. Pierre, for those that don't know was co-driver to Paul Newman at BSR back in the day. One Saturday, the Shop went up to Willow Springs to test and to let off some steam. I was shown the racing line around the Streets of Willow by Pierre in my then stock 77 Coupe and how to actually drive a Z on a road course at speed. I will be forever thankful to Pierre and Daniel for the opportunity of a lifetime. Cheers,

@zspert can't you do one of your award winning restorations on your self and keep going for another 50 years! Don't forget the yellow paint marks on all your tightened joints and use NOS parts, I'd avoid the cad plating though! Roo

Thanks for the recommendation. I think my wipers work. My current plan is it's not going to rain while I'm on the road.

@SteveJ You are our “go to guy” in electric issues Steve. We appreciate someone who knows more than “It bites you, but you can’t see it”…….. like me. Live forever!!!!🥳

Silver is tough paint to spray evenly - even tougher to match ("even tougher" I said... nearly impossible). You want someone with a good deal of experience spraying silver metallic and that's not generally cheap. We always had very good luck with our supplier (Sherman Williams Automotive) and Datsun colors - what they had was very close to factory. I think we shot three silver Z's. Datsun metallic base paint is fairly inexpensive (for paint) and fairly consistent in price. It's the clear and hardener that will have a great deal of price variation. Be forewarned that cheap clear usually means greater LABOR cost or settling for a poorer outcome. Each painter you talk to will have a preference for the clear they use and they will have a reason they do so. If you go against their preference don't be surprised by additional labor or cost to get the clear looking the way you want it to. And please don't argue with the guy - after he's sprayed the paint you told him to. (Here in Phoenix our cost of just the final materials (sealer, base coat, clearcoat) of the brands we prefer would be just over $1,000 (using a very good clear but by no means the most expensive) and not talking of labor, fillers, or primers. We got a pretty good discount - and a painters discount may or may not be passed on to you. Paint cost is the very cheapest part of the job.) If you want the silver "to pop", spray dark sealer under the base. If you use a lighter sealer the silver metallic will look "washed out" and will not have as much character, For the most part paint IS NOT opaque. Underlying colors will have a visual effect - subtle but definitely noticeable. I personally despise masking around weather strip and trim. It may look acceptable at first but will eventually present a myriad of issues. Early on, we did one at a customers request and immediately afterwards made it a policy to NEVER do it again. You think you may be saving on labor cost to mask rather than remove but in reality labor saving is minute and the result is poor. We had several Z's come to the shop years after a "masked trim and weather strip" spray looking needlessly shabby. Pull the windows and trim and get paint underneath all the gaskets, trim, and weather strip. My last piece of advice - if you can't afford what the experienced painter quotes you just don't do it - don't look for a cheap quote. And, with a Z, you CANNOT hold him to an initial ESTIMATE (unless he doubles up). There are WAY to many unseen things that may pop up. (I said "MAY pop up"... Sigh... I can't remember a single Z in our shop that didn't have surprises unknown to the owner AND to us!) Oh,, ya,, we shot that. VVV

Thanks for the words of wisdom and encouragement everyone. I appreciate the support! I've been driving The OG around for a couple days ago, and my back isn't the happiest. I've changed not much else in my life in the past week, so I'm assuming it's the seats. There's no springs, and I assume all the straps underneath have turned to dust. I've got a couple car seat cushions on order from Amazon. They'll be here before the trip, and I'm hoping one of those options helps. I don't have time to do anything with the seats the right way. So today, I got my shift boot installed. Put the grommet in the right way (with help from @SpeedRoo): And then promptly folded it correctly down into the abyss where nobody will ever see it. Haha!!! So it's installed the correct way, but nobody except me will ever know. And, of course, all of you: 4 DAYS!!!

This should probably be in the carb discussion section rather than electronics.

It's a pumpkin (or some kind of squash) seed and a bunch of other small seeds. Apparently that can happen when you store your car for years with the radiator cap off. I don't know what was living in there, but it had quite a comfortable home. Here's some background history... I saw critter evidence junk in the radiator. Flushed out as much as I could with a hose. Drove the car. and the temps started out fine, but started to creep up the longer I drove. Drained the radiator looked in the top, and there was junk in it again. Apparently some debris was now circulating around the cooling system. So I pulled the radiator and dug/flushed/picked out as much debris as I could and put it back in. This time, however,,, No messing around. I installed a "filter" between the head outlet and the inlet of the radiator with the hope that it would catch debris coming out of the block before it got into the radiator. The filter was a metal screen sock that's used on your washing machine outlet so you don't dump lint into your plumbing. And it just so happens it fit's well into the radiator hose. Looks like this: Chain mail condom: Stuff it into the top radiator hose: Drive around for a couple minutes and I catch this debris before it gets back into the radiator: Rinse and repeat. This is the third time I cleaned out the filter. Probably an hour of engine run time. The amount of debris getting caught is decreasing: I've since pulled it a couple more times and it's almost clean. I can probably remove the filter at this point.

I hit 70 mph today. Seemed to like it just fine. Not sure how it would like it for ten hours, but it seemed to like it for five minutes. Temps started creeping up a little, which is somewhat disconcerting since it was a cool evening. I have previously been through a (critter induced) radiator calamity, but was hoping it was mitigated to the point of being OK. Maybe I still need to do more... Running out of time!!!

@jfa.series1 I've had good luck getting all the parts through amayama, partsouq or nissan parts deal. You'll have to assemble the kit yourself, that's what I did.

Don't forget about the bronze valve seats that came OE in the E31. They're not good with the gas we use now but you can have them updated to steel for not much money if you're not currently running the head.

It wouldn't be a Datsun if it didn't have a little rust!!

Well in the time remaining, I may have to pick and choose what loose ends I leave drag. Hope your Dad would approve!!

Be EXTREMELY cautious in bending any of the tabs, go slowly with very little pressure. The body is pot metal and breaks very easily. Ask me how I know. 😉

Sometimes you run across a hoard and get some good pieces.

Unless you have rebuilt the wiper motor and all of that, you should throw a bottle of Rain-X in the glove box just in case. If you go fast enough it works when the wipers don't. I kept a bottle in my Hardbody Nissan when I was driving back and forth to Destin after hurricane Opal.

The flasher for the hazard lights is the same type used for the turn signals. The hazard lights flasher is located at the passenger side relay panel. Since you hear a click with the horns, it may be that the horns are corroded. On my 73, I used a wire wheel on a dremel to polish the positive contact and grounding points. You should use silicone grease on those areas before re-installing to delay future corrosion. One way to reduce heat on the brake light circuit after you get the hazards working would be to swap out incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. LEDs draw less current.

I have taken the time to research this on the Japanese side, trawling through numerous Japanese market factory parts manuals for Nissan models made during the 1960s and early 70s period. I found some pointers. Dates quoted are the dates for the publication of the parts manual concerned: *Model 31 Nissan Cedric - 1963 - Both Zinc and Cadmium protective coatings applied to fasteners/components. *Model 310 Nissan Cedric - 1964 - Both Zinc and Cadmium protective coatings applied. *Model 410 Bluebird - 1964 - Both Zinc and Cadmium applied. Then, *B10 Sunny - 1966 - Zinc. *510 Bluebird - 1967 - Zinc. *T44 Nissan Miler (ex-Prince) - 1968 - Zinc. *T65 Nissan Clipper (ex Prince) - 1968 - Zinc. *Model 60 Nissan Patrol - 1968 - Zinc. *521 Pickup - 1968 - Zinc. *C30 Nissan Laurel - 1968 - Zinc. *A30 Nissan Gloria (ex Prince) - 1968 - Zinc. *SR311 Fairlady - 1968 - Zinc. *130 Nissan Cedric - 1969 - Zinc. *C10 Skyline - 1969 - Zinc. *C20 Vanette - 1970 - Zinc. *GC10 Skyline - 1971 - Zinc. *A-321 Cabstar - 1971 - Zinc. ...so, judging from the above, it seems likely that Nissan's use of Cadmium for protective coatings was discontinued around 1965. I also searched factory parts manuals of Prince Motor Co products (Prince were forcibly merged with Nissan in 1966) but they carry no data on protective coatings for their parts. Your move.

A fool and his money are soon parted.

Yeah, there's all kinds of things wrong with the description of that car. At the top of my list (besides the build date) is the claim about original paint. In my humble opinion, we're looking at a 9/70 (probably titled as a 1971) 240Z wearing a poorly done repaint. Probably with 107K miles. Don't get me wrong... It certainly has great potential. But it's not a very early car barn find with original paint and just 7K miles.

Cliff, here's another work of art for you. A.I. is a wondrous and amusing thing. 😎 But, not 100% accurate in all cases.

As an ex fire and burglar alarm engineer... i advice you a 2 ltr CO2 fire extinguisher, they leave no recidue as powder makes a MESS! I'm surprised that halon is still available, in europe i believe they are no longer legal!! (Halon is often used, or was used in computer environments.. halon just takes away the oxigen in the air so if your ever in a room when halon is coming in, leave as fast as you can you will not be able to breath in there!! BTW, yesterday i could not react or make a new topic, maybe some russians in the lines... :-o

I'm not about to wade into this discussion except to say that I think there's a lot to be said for the quoted comments. First, I like, and get in this context, the Shakespeare reference. Ouch! I'm betting it was a weak moment for 26th and he'll be back onside soon. But more importantly, if there's a community on the internet more dedicated to knowing everything there is to know about Datsun Z Cars, I haven't found it. This is it. Sometimes it takes a long, rancorous discussion to get to the answer, but down the road it's only the answer that will matter. Good for you guys for caring enough about this stuff to challenge each other to get to the right answers. Not everyone will care about whether it was cadmium chromate or zinc chromate, but a few will, and we stand a better chance of determining the answer today than we ever will in the future. Cheers to you guys for your dedication to the cause!

You say: switched tops but maybe you must switch top and piston on the other bottom part.. btw always keep the parts of 2 carbs ALWAYS apart.. they look the same but are very fine tuned parts..

Very cool! Looks like the new shop is a nice upgrade. Looks like you might have more acreage too...

Moved upstate to Ithaca NY back in April. Had the 350Z shipped up ahead of us, then took the 280Z on. a clear day. Still no work on the cars yet, still setting up the grounds, garage & house Garage was used as. workshop, so it has a couple of 240 circuits, air compressor lines & ports, and radiant heat. Little more cluttered now, still working on setting it up Added glass panels to each door for more light Outside garage back in April: Better weather Adding slabs outside the barn & garage for me to work on - there are no flat/level/safe areas on the property outside of the garage

Just for fun, I've dug out the JUNE 1997 edition of OLD TIMER Magazine - published in Japan - to scan some photos from the 8 page article in which they covered Vintage Z Program-related activities at Pierre's, Z World and the lobby of NMC USA. The original photos are many, small and scan up with a noticeable Moire pattern, but people still might like to see them. 'Donor' cars sitting in the parking lot behind Pierre's, waiting to start the process. Original caption says that they counted 13 in this row alone and that Pierre's had a total of 25 base cars and 8 cars for parts, so a total of 33 cars 'in stock' at that time. Any lack of ambience is made up for with Ambulance: Caption says this is a stripped bodyshell, waiting to be collected by the bodyshop: Caption says that this lineup of suspension parts have been stress checked and delicate areas taped up prior to collection for blasting and "powder coating": I'll scan and upload some more tomorrow...