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Killl...kiiilll...KILLLL

The early 240Z had handed dove tails for the doors, a left and right sided fitting were required. Part numbers R 80530-E4101 and L 80531-E4101. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/body-side-trim-side-window/62 On later cars there were replaced with a symmetrical part that fit on either side. 80530-N3400 Biggest problems with the early ones were the tabs where the screws went through breaking off. Replacement factory parts haven't been available for years. Fortunately I have a set of unbroken originals which we modelled up and reproduced in aluminum. We added an extra 1mm around the screw holes to prevent the cracking and breaking. Just picked up the first samples to fit check and they work just like the originals. The original one is on the right, you can see the slight increase in thickness around the screw holes on the left one. Also modelled up and replicated the original plastic grease reservoir for the steering rack. I'll post details in a separate thread.

Looks like I have mostly parts candidates in the hoard. None of then work smoothly.

Here is how this one was wired: Main GND (B) is a male spade that pushes into a female held in that little box. Red/Black (RB) is the GND from the door switches. Red/Blue (RL) is +12V from the fuse box. And they're both female spades. You'll notice that the main GND can be interrupted by the switch and that the RB GND from the doors is independent of the dome switch. Now. To refurbish this one AND try putting it back together - so that it still works...

I was busy with sorting out some things in life, recently, so no big progress on the Car project side, aside from changing all family cars to winter tires. To keep my spirits up, the postal guy brought new stuff almost daily. The first was a nice delivery of an EU-spec front spoiler and a set of EU-spec front lower corner valances. Thanks a lot @HS30-H for your support, once again! One of them was even a NOS item with the Nissan stickers on it: Then, I also got a small delivery from 240Zrubberparts.com. I was looking for that KM-1520ZC replacement faceplates and I have to say it looks quite good. I was even gifted a set of label stickers for the radio, which I really appreciate. This will come in very handy when come to the planned restoration of the Radio. I hope to be back on the car project again soon. I've discussed a few next steps with a specialist and I hope the project gets a big boost next year, but I also hope to be able to finish a few things in the coming weeks.

And now he says - I’m out ! I had a hard time reading this guy but don’t think he was ever a serious Z owner/buyer . Good luck - I said Moving on

Did you see where this thread ended up? Once the thread's purpose is served why not use it to have a conversation? Nothing wrong with that.

We love having you here Cliff!

Now the gentleman has requested I find him a Z ! He says his budget is 35-45k . I should be able to find something nice enough in that range I believe .

If you're going to have a muffler shop do it why not them look at it and use their database to find one. If you're going to do it yourself, then trying the no muffler twin stack should be easy. If the dimensions are correct. Looks like what you have is clamped on, not welded. So trying some things should be easy.

I had a twin stack on a 240 many years ago. I don’t remember it being that loud. Your car should have a resonator already. Put it on and try it. No cost involved.

Sorry, but I kinda lost sight of the moving target... Can you make up a fresh picture sketch schematic of how you have things connected right now? Make sure to show both sides of the stock original four pin (not three?) connector. And include wire colors on everything?

I think that twin stack muffler will be way to loud without a serious resonator behind it. I do like loud cars and the Z’s sound awesome with some more noise but I think that muffler would be to much. But seeing as you already have it I would say it doesn’t hurt to just throw it on and see how she sounds. As for repairing the old muffler I wouldn’t really recommend it. You could try but the steel usually isn’t the best quality which makes welding hard and it won’t look that good. So if you can spare it I would suggest looking at a new one, maybe a JDM dual stake muffler? I know Zstory from France has some nice option for stock US and JDM look. I haven’t used anything from Zstory but I do find them very interesting. First up is getting my 280z on the road and then I can slowly move towards engine work for which I’m highly considering them.

Excellent analogy. That's a great philosophical thought exercise. Wonder what the right answer is.........

The first two pics are some 510 4 door outer door/window trim pieces. The second two are 510 2 door outer door/window trim pieces. The rubber looks to be the same shape to me for each of them. The next two pics show the groove on the inside top edge of the door where the inner rubber w/s goes. It is a simple u channel. The last three pictures are of NOS inner rubber weather strips for the 2 door. The front and rear doors of the wagon should use the same inner and outer w/s from a design standpoint, right?

Let me take a look. I only have a 2 door, not a wagon. I have some NOS outer stainless strips. And I may have the inner strips as well. I will try to get some pictures for you.

toolman on Hybridz says that they'll be at SEMA Las Vegas in two weeks. Thought he had an account on CZCC but there are several toolmans listed here. They show what looks like a scrapped/stripped 240Z on a road in the desert. Facing the wrong way if it's meant to be in the States. On a road with odd yellow and white center striping. Combined with that Youtube short above with the cringey rap music, the whole enterprise seems strange. If anybody trys to buy a part from them don't forget about the tariffs. 57% now, could be 155% soon. If anybody is really interested it might be worthwhile to browse other car forums. They have an odd assortment of models shown. Here's one - https://www.carbody.com/product/classic-car/ford-parts/bronco-19661977-parts/ HybridZA COMPLETE EARLY MODEL 240Z BODY may be available soonA Chinese Metal Fabrication Company is planning to unveil a Brand New complete Early Model 240Z body at the 2025 SEMA SHOW in Las Vegas on Nov 4-7. They are looking for Distributors in North America.

I am trying to come up with a working dome lamp out of my collection None of the candidates have continuity across the spade terminals. One of them has continuity from the switch terminals on each side of the switch but not through the rivets on out. Any thoughts on how to repair the continuity? Any thoughts on where to find a replacement switch. I have two that need switches

Weird - it's a turn-y switch - it rotates into or out of contact by pressing the button. That little black disc (brass contacts on the bottom side that I didn't take a pic of...) gets turned by the shaft above it. So, it needs to turn freely, have an undamaged top side (the little ramp, triangle thingy's), and the entire mechanism needs to slide / move freely, and all the contact brass needs to be clean. I didn't notice any old grease or lubricant in this one. I was surprised that the "top" was just held on by a couple of clips on either side. Everything is PLASTIC and we don't have very good luck with PLASTIC here in the DESERT, so I was a little nervous. I heated the whole thing up a bit and used an extremely small screwdriver to pry one side at a time. First side was pretty easy - the second was quite a bit harder but eventually the "top" came off and revealed the underlying surprise. The switch is indeed simple and you can test continuity straight through on the rivets both sides or the brass the rivets tie down. Also check continuity through to the bulb holders to make sure corrosion hasn't killed the circuit between the switch and the bulb.

Hold on now people. Let's be positive. We all know that todays body work to repair a rusted z car can take a ton, no..two tons of time and dollars. So let wait and see.

Yeah, that's fair. It's real Ship of Theseus situation.

For the BEST rubber in your Datsun door..... simply use.. Rubbers - S30 World

That is true, but it could have been converted from auto. I'm just throwing out bread crumbs. Something is drawing too much current. Find the thing.

I can attest to the fact that the Kia Sportage weatherstrip requires no adhesive (even at the top rear corner of the window) to conform to the shape of the window opening. That's because it uses a more modern design, wherein integrated metal Z-coils replace the need for adhesive or a separate gripper strip. The Kia design also uses a 'lipped bellows' design that provides a more effective seal than the Z's old-fashioned (sorry) cantilevered-lip design. The recent arrival of Z Store's retro-design weatherstripping (i.e. cantilevered-lip design) presents a bit of a dilemma to restorers, because they (apparently?) don't also offer a repro of the gripper strip. If I've got this right, it means that you have to use an adhesive to make the weatherstrip not only conform to the window shape, but also stay that way for some reasonable period of time. If your definition of 'reasonable period of time' is 20+ years, then use just use epoxy and be done with it. Otherwise, I think that 3M's 'old-fashioned' weatherstrip adhesive will do just fine (provided that you read and follow the instructions). It will also offer some forgiveness if you happen to; a) screw up during the installation, or; b) decide, a few years later on, to try something 'more better'.

IIRC, there may be something funky about the the cabin light's wiring and switching logic (even one of the terminals is 'different') that requires a special testing procedure. I'm thinking about how the lamp is controlled not just by its integral switch, but also by the door P/B's (wherein toggling the integral switch can override Door Open/Closed). Bottom line: You may not have a problem at all (emphasis, however, on the word, 'may') Perhaps we should ask CZCC's designated electrical expert (Steve ____? ) for some guidance before you add yet another cabin light to your collection.

Hmmm, that's one switch that I've never taken apart... Now you have me curious. I think I'll see if I have a spare and drill out the rivets.

I'm getting very close, one carb at a time. One photo is the view looking down the nozzle, which has been set to 10 turns. Once there is fuel, I can shine a flashlight down the hole and see the level, I'm usually either too high or too low, trying to find that sweet spot. The other photo is the rear float, you can see the weight that was added so when the bowl is at the proper level, the float is level, not canted, where it would hit the ceiling of the bowl. There has been a lot of discussion on that in this thread. One of the photos shows the weights that were fabricated. BTW, although the carbs are from a 240z, they are being installed on a 260z, getting rid of the flat tops. Jim emptech@surewest.net

Gotcha. In that case, try this. The tach won't work, but the car should run. If this works, we'll deal with the tach next.

Can you post a picture of your floats? It should not look like a ramp, more like a hump. They should look like this... Not like this...

😶‍🌫️

Well? Did you remember? 🤪

I might have something, I'll check later when its light out.

That person made a wise decision!!!

35-45 buys alot more car these days than it did two years ago

I'm with Zed Head. That thing is all kinds of wired wrong. There is no reason to have two ballast resistors. I'd start over and clean that all up. To help the process... Is the "three pin connector" a stock connector, or is that something that came with the unilite? Can you provide the wire colors going to that connector?

That crack is original, not aftermarket. lol

Great that you got your tank coated, hopefully it will work fine for many years. As far as your intake manifold goes, I've seen that rot hole happen more than a few times through the years. What I do is cut off the egr section of the intake and I weld an aluminum plate on top of the hole eliminating any problem in the future. I have to do that with the manifold on the bench, it can't be done while it's still in the car. Then you need to weld shut the tube going to the exhaust manifold or better yet install a header like you already did. If anyone wants me to weld up their intake you'd have to send it to me. See attached pics. I do have lots of used intakes in stock so I can weld mine up and send it to you, then you send me your old one. That way your car doesn't have to be laid up for awhile. Or I could sell you an intake that is intact and doesn't have a rot hole. As far as your header goes, as long as you don't have an auto trans you're best bet on the header is using a 6 into 1, not a 6, 2, 1. I have a ceramic coated 6 into 1 header with round ports in stock hanging on the wall waiting to be sold if anybody needs one. The one in the pic is just like it except that one is alumacoated whereas the one I have hanging on the wall looks like chrome. see pic Z man of Washington

Kinda makes me gag to look at the pictures. Is that Bat or Bird...patina?

Great patina. Clean the glass and give it a quick clear coat and it would be as good as new.............ran when parked!

That picture is wild and fun story - thanks for sharing

My 240 had almost a pound of rust and crud. Tank cleaned up beautifully and I haven't had any issues since I coated it with Red-Kote. I'd already done the tank on my 280 and was anxious to do the 240 then I realized all the hoses and the evap tank I needed to replace. What a job that turned into! For my 280 I think I bought the last Bosch OE fuel pump in 2011 thinking that was my problem. Oh boy was I wrong! A lot of other problems with the EFI were ahead but I got it all worked out and made a fuel rail for it and put in a 6to1 ceramic coated header. The EGR was clogged up and caused a huge rotting hole in my aluminum intake manifold. It runs good now but only after adding a potentiometer to add more fuel to the ECU's coolant temp sensor function. I've got the OE pump still and it works fine but newer is always better. I think it was $250? I say run it until it starts not keeping the pressure you need. These pics of my 240 tank are not indicative of the 280s tank from what I've seen with my cars.

He sold it yesterday for 1500$ He did good !

I'm working on a knowledge post about the S30's automatic transmissions, and for that, I tried to update my document collection. Since I don't have any Auto transmission and don't plant to install one ever, it was obviously never a priority. So recently a few things arrived again from all over the world. Some of them are pretty cool and rare: First, a set of original Nissan Japan 3N71B Auto transmission service manuals from 1971 and 1973. They're not specific to this car, but they have some good general information about that specific transmission. I also got the English version of the earlier 3N71A transmission manual. This time specific for the 240Z. Nothing crazy inside, but good for some reference data if you're a nerd like me. Speaking of Automatic transmissions. I got this cool troubleshooting guide slider, which was issued for both the A and B transmissions by Nissan USA in 1972: The delivery also included some Mikuni triple carb-setup parts: And i also came across this Mikuni PH level gauge for 2 bucks, so I had to get it: It even came with a nice little operation manual leaflet and padded pouch: Then I also got this nice booklet called "Z-car" by driver magazine JP. It's basically a collection of all their S30-related publications from their monthly magazine. I still have to read through all of it, but so far it has some very nice stories, including the original designers of the car. The only downside so far is the overload of praise for Mr. K as the sole man behind the Z, which is of course nonsense. But as said, i only read two pages so far. Speaking of documents. I made a copy of that original Nissalco 240Z special service toolbox manual, as it was falling apart. And I have to say it turned out pretty good for my first attempt at something like this. I picked up a load of tool-related things yesterday and have a lot of pending orders. so stay tuned for another update soon.

Cats can stop up and restrict the exhaust

to be honest i havent even looked at the exhaust. Im assuming it does have cats. I did have a 10K potensiometer laying around and tested this hack from siteunseen and it did work when setting the ohms to ~1000. Car reved to 4500-5000 before shifting without any hesitations. im not planning on driving aggressive at all. but just trying to get the car running well.

Very much agree but at the end of the day interesting to see.

I wonder if it’s within factory specs.

I noticed my OE muffler had a leak so decided to tackle replacing it. Only thing I could find that was near OE was a Bosal 280-520. this has a flange that goes from the Catalytic back to the muffler tip. Cheap at only about 50$ with various discounts. 1st thing I noted after pulling the OE was the pipe from the flange back was not as long as the OE before making the bend down the diff. It was about 4" too short. I am guessing that the CAT converter on my CA car maybe short than a standard resonator. Since I don't have a resonator to compare its only a guess. Anyway bought some pipe and various fittings thinking I would fabricate a joiner and use U clamps to connect it all up. After sleeping on it, and think how hokey a bunch of U clamp would look I decide welding was the answer. Now welding is something I have not touched since back in HS shop class back in the 70's and that was arc and gas, but figured it would be fun to try. Got a cheap 170amp HF mig and some gear to go with it, did not have enough gas to try the shielding gas so used the flux wire. Tried a few beads on the scrap pipe I had left over after cutting out the needed joining piece. Wow this is not easy, no granted I prob had everything working against me, cheap welder, flux wire, thin gauge steel , running a bead around a radious, but after a while I was at least getting consistent arcs and wire feed. I unplugged the ECU and put the pieces back on the car, using the big welding magnets to hold in place I managed to get a few tacks in place so I could remove and finish weld. I ringed it with small tack welds and then tried my best to bead it. I prob ground off 90% of my work and would re do until it looked like I had managed a solid unit. I pressure checked it with some soapy water, fixed a few leaks, painted the whole area with some high temp paint and reinstalled. The fitment with the 4.5" added was perfect, too bad I had to add that extension. Exhaust was quieter than before (I would hope all this was done for a purpose) and I know the exhaust gasses are now all coming out of the tail pipe and not from the front of the muffler like before. I clearly need to practice a LOT with the welder but it was fun and a nice learning experience. I cant recommend the BOSAL 280-520 only because I don't know for sure it would fit on a NON CA car, if it did then I would say its a great value. As is its still a good value if you have some welding ability.