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Last weekend we worked in the shop some Here is a seam in the leather fender covers. I made this with contact adhesive and clamps. I picked the padding out in the seam area so it was just leather to leather. We took Lily down off the cubes. A lot less sketchy than the way I put her up there. Still had to have a 6x6 on the jack saddle at this point Rolled her outside and it promptly rained... My windshield leaks and I will add some sealant under the weatherstripping soon. I also ordered tool covers for behind the seats from Zcardepot. They don't have the hinges. So they may not work for me... Since I don't have the old covers

Put on your party hats and toot your horns. Join me in celebrating the 54th Anniversary of the day I bought my 1971 240Z. Today, it sits in my driveway proudly showing its age. Unfortunately, I'm also showing my age and have a little more trouble getting in and out of it and working the pedals than I did in 1971. Great car, great fun, 54 years of great road adventures!

I offer two different versions of my conversion bell housings to do the reverse tilt. One for the CD009 and one for the TL70. Most of the people that buy my head end up tilting them so I offer the bell housings to assist in that.

I should have a lot more updates and pics here as I have finished my summer home projects. Also, I am hoping the body and paint will be finished in the next month or two, so we should see some good progress. I appreciate all of the input here. I am always open to advice and the knowledge of those that have seen and worked on these cars in the past. Personally, I will listen to the panel of experts and then move forward with what seems to be the best direction. Also, as most of you know, I own a pretty much un-restored early 240Z that I grew up with since I was 9 years old (in the family for 55 years) , so I have a nice reference vehicle. That being said, I find it interesting that there seems to be a tendency to hold the ZCON judging in high regard. Personally, I do not have a very high regard for ZCON judges. In reality, many of them have never owned an original Z car or examined one closely. As a result, they make a number of mistakes in their judging, none of which can be contested because you do not receive the judging sheets until several months after the show. One of these days I will start a thread here titled "ZCON Judging Errors" and see who weighs in, in addition to the items I would list. A few examples are the deductions on my early Z for the weld lines on my oil pan. (FYI 0042 has the same weld lines so they will probably mark this off too). Another good example is the Franklin mint car losing points for having the 'Silver zinc' coil holder instead of 'Yellow zinc' holder. I have heard of judges insisting the original brake lines were stainless steel, the rear diff cover was bare aluminum and fuel hoses were not the 'cloth wrap' style. I am sure that I am just hitting a very small portion of the errors as I am only familiar with the cars that I have been involved with and what I can remember off the top of my head. Anyway, just had to rant a bit about the judging issue. Don't even get me started on the non-Z show judging. Regarding the Exhaust manifold finish, that is an interesting discussion. For most of my restorations, I have always consulted Les Cannady at Classic Datsun Motorsports and never questioned his advice (He was just 10 miles down the road) . If I am not mistaken, I think only his shop and Pierre Z were the only shops approved to build the Restoration Z's. Because of that, I have always used the gray powdercoat that he recommended as the default finish. However, given the current discussion and comments, sounds like there are several other options out there that might be more true to form. After looking at a number of different options and comments regarding the color, I am happy with the graphite finish option. Two of the items that lead me in that direction are pics from the Nissan engine service manual and pics of my own motor disassembly that are pictured below. Both pics show a dark cast iron finish, not a light gray finish. So, I am sticking with the graphite and will probably go with that in the future as well. I installed the exhaust manifold and intake assembly to the engine. Pics below. (Also looking for a correct rear engine hoist bracket) I finished up the steering column, and replaced the connector on the turn signal assembly. The main shaft was sanded and re-painted and all the electronics cleaned up. I re-finished the steering wheel that now looks much better, but not sure I will stick with this. The wood finish should be more redish. Problem is that the wood veneer is very thin and I am not sure how much was removed in the restoration attempt from the previous owner. Previously, the nubs on the opposite side were sanded through unfortunately. I will let it be for now, but may revisit it. The center metal portion looks good though. I cleaned up the brake and cluth pedal box. Ready for install. I have no idea what is written on that silver can below.

Well done! Congratulations from another OO.🎉

As I've been saying for some time now; the upper middle class collector car market has been depressed for at least the past 10 months. Yes, should have taken the 90K.

Too many projects are IMG_2691.movIMG_2691.movdelaying this RHD hs30… Heading to the wetblasting area to determine if anything is left to work with……

I had her up on jack stands and stood about a 12" piece of 6x6 up on the jack and lifted her up. But the block and jack wanted to slide out once she was up high enough. I had to hold the jack in place while someone put the cubes under the tires

I stole this cassette from my step-a s s hole when I was a kid. When cassettes where still off white colored, before the clear ones. I listened to it so much I still know every word to all the songs but this was my favorite.

I had their greatest hits album when I was a kid. In retro my parents were probably concerned.

That rubber glue may be the least of your problems! I've done a Z dash pad restoration, starting with something that had only 25% of the deterioration that yours has. Even at that, it was a time-consuming job. Not only does the pad surface need to be levelled (not easy to get right, given the multiple contours), it's also necessary to 'V' and then feather-edge all of the cracks so that the filler won't crack along the seams. I'll bet it would take you 20 man-hours of effort (or more) to level, edge-treat, fill, sand, and paint a dash pad like yours to a decent level of final finish. But before you even get started down that road, you'll need to convince yourself that what's left of your original pad has enough structural integrity to prevent the pieces from moving around independently when the cabin temperature goes up or down. With its many full-depth cracks, I don't think I would trust your badly broken-up dash pad to meet that requirement. As a litmus test, it would be interesting to know whether a professional dash restorer like Just Dashes would accept your dash for restoration. Maybe you should send a picture and ask them. IMO, your best path forward will be to either: 1) buy a used dash that offers a better starting point for a DIY restoration (as Siteunseen suggests), or; 2) buy one of the replacement dash pads that have recently become available. In the latter case, you unbolt the old pad from the underlying steel structure (known as the 'armature') and then bolt on the replacement pad. There are a couple of threads on this site that discuss these replacement pads. As a third, lowest-cost/effort alternative, you could just replace your old plastic dash cap with a new one.

A few dollars a month will eliminate the ads. Well worth it IMO.

When I spoke with Sean @ ZStory, he recommended the Street-sport or Race-sport for my build. I'm leaning towards the street-sport, but as my build increases in cost, I may just re-use the MSA header I have for now and get the ZStory later, especially with the tariffs and all...

I'm installing new KYB's I like the idea of a light coating of lube on the inner walls.

Sold for $101K on BAT in 2019... Adjusted for inflation, to break even it needed to sell for $129K in todays money. Nonetheless in todays market - $90K was a pretty strong offer.

To get my plug out I used a small pipe wrench and a bottle jack to loosen mine. Situated the wrench so I could get the jack under the handle then pumped the jack a few times and it loosened up.

Yes you're correct. However, will a customer accept an exhaust manifold that will start to show corrosion almost the minute he leaves my shop after spending X amount of $ for a Y operation? Asking rhetorically as the answer is obvious. Everyone and I mean EVERYONE was very happy with the Jet-Hot cast look including, but not limited to, the Franklin Mint car.

Yes, nice shade of yellow. Looks a lot like mine. This is a Chevrolet color...'Rally Yellow'

Cody continues to make progress on his car. Thanks to SteveJ for helping us sort the engine bay harness @SteveJ He has the harness in and has started sorting out the electrical issues. There are quite a few We think we have a solution for the throttle control. It's loosely based on Ken Firch's cable system. His bracket won't work but we are working on making a heat shiel that will also hold a throttle cable and hooks for the throttle return screws. It will mount to the two lower studs on the SU's. The smaller SU's only have two studs and they are set diagonally. We are planning on using the the mounts at the balance tube to add a different 10mm OD tube with a donor part from a 240z. Which will supply a ball end for the cable to connect to I worked on a template for the heat shield today. I don't have a good way to brake the sheet metal so we will need to sort that out. We are leaning towards using 1mm stainless sheet...

This one’s got four wheels!

dzcg might be having seller's regret. 🤢 Everyone knows about ad blockers. They work. Good luck.

FWIW.. subscribing to a VPN like Surfshark or Nord, etc... eliminates at least 90% of the ads.

Yeah, hopefully it should be easy to tell. In any event, it's got to be better than this!!! Hahaha!

Seat cover fit might suffer. In essence, you'll be increasing the height of the side bolsters by 1 inch. The centre panel of the seat cover would end hanging in space above the carved-out foam. Occupant weight will force the cover down onto the foam, but the look (baggy) when the seat is unoccupied might make you wish you'd never tried it. I suggest that you run the idea by an experienced auto upholstery pro before you break out the carving knife

Just leave the condenser disconnected. You don't need it for now. You can also just connect both of the wires from the ballast resistor (the block) to the coil positive. You don't need it when you use the HEI module.

I would add some details of how, exactly, you are evaluating "spark". With a spark plug at the end of a plug wire, through the coil center terminal, with a spark tester...? Are you cranking the engine when you do this? Have you disconnected the original module by the fuse box or did you resintall it? And, or, but, I have noticed that you do not have any battery power going to the coil in your picture. You only have the coil connected to the module and no pwer to the module either. You need power to the coil positive terminal. Also, use your meter and make sure that the mounting screw of the module has a good ground. And make sure that it's the correct screw. Only one of the screws completes the ground through the module, it has a thicker ferrule. Looks like you have the correct screw but you might not have good contact through that screw head or where it seats on the TB. The TB is not the best place to mount it. That's where all of the coil current flows when the module is doing its thing. And, it you plan to run it for long you need a proper heat sink under the flat part of the module. It gets hot and heat will cause them to fail.

Look between 1st and 2nd spark plugs to see what head you have. Should be an E88 or N42, maybe N47? That will tell us what exhaust port shape you have and whether or not you have the injector notches. If it's an E88 you can use the 240 gasket. Fel-Pro has a universal diamond shape exhaust manifold gasket but it has the injector notches too. From what I remember it will work with carbs but I've never used one so maybe someone can tell us? If it's the OE E88 I would use the right gasket with round intake holes and square exhaust ports. I bought mine through Nissan dealership but zcardepot.com has them too.

Congrats and keep going! All the best to you and your "Z"

I believe that all the tapered fittings are BPT. Probably dictated by world manufacturing climate at the time. Some of the BPT and their respective NPT counterparts are different enough to easily tell the difference, and some of them are really similar. For example, with some thread sealant, it usually seals if you stuff a 1/8 NPT plug into a hole threaded for 1/8 BPT. But, I think the BPT is correct. There also does exist some locations where a straight thread was used (temp gauge sender unit for example), but I've found them to be straight up metric thread, not BSPP.

Ok, I got the race-sport header and can confirm that it will not clear the oil pan with the heatshield. I of course learned this after the engine was in the car and was not about to remove it so I rolled up under the car with a Dremel and cutting wheel to cut the heatshield off. Once that was done the header fit just fine. Hope this helps keep you from being covered in sparks cutting the heat shield off after installation like I was. :)

You can get them for a 4-wheeler at your local motorcycle shop. They have those metal bands that work great instead of the e-bay ones that send you zip-ties.

It will be interesting to see how the BaT S30.world/Garage 44 auction goes when it is (eventually) listed. Im guessing the 240-Z has been shipped to the USA to sell rather than be passed in.

Yep. Been down all those paths and I STILL don't know (for sure) what size they actually are. I see what you used, but I don't think you used what was intended to go in those holes. I've seen more references to BSPT than anything else, so I suspect that is what it is. There are MANY holes that can be plugged on these cars; holes in the block, holes in the exhaust manifold, holes in the thermo housing, etc. Looks like some may be just metric threads (which are a parallel thread), some are BSPT (I'm presuming, will confirm) and some others may be BSPP. I also googled, "240z balance tube plugs" as was suggested in the thread you linked to, and many of the resources provided by Google were links to places where one could purchase said plugs, but they were not identified as to which size or threadform they were, in fact, a couple of the sellers provided two different plugs with two different threadforms and said both, "will work". Call me picky, but I prefer to use the proper fitting when a threaded hole is provided.

Cannon Manifold and three 40 DCOE 151 (spanish pedigree) weber 151s. I have had these apart and cleaned them but they still need to be gone through and verified. I had them on my Z car running since 2012. Pulled them off and need the space in my garage. Comes with oversized rod ends, and throttle arm mounting bar (less deflection), which is a modification of my own. Carbs are complete. I am pretty sure I have the air horns that came with them. I can ship to anywhere in the CONTIENTAL US, but shipping will be on the purchaser. I will box them up in a protected WEBER carb box individually. For the manifold and carbs I am asking 800 dollars plus shipping. Please give me an email at sdamico555@Gmail.com

A little doesn’t hurt to prevent rust in the tube.

Any oil will do.

I mailed the balancer to the guys in Reading this AM. $300. Thanks for the tip🙋‍♂️

They have a 15mm square socket available on Amazon. Works like a champ with a 1/2” pull bar. I chose the Harfington model. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=15mm+socket

Fifty-year-old rubber exposed to heat, cold, vibration and air pollution. Aftermarket replacements are available. Your chances of finding a NOS unit are low. Your chances of finding a good-condition used unit are better, but will require you to rely on the quality of the seller's photos. There are a couple of businesses (Damper Doctor, Winslow Mfg) that will re-core your old unit.

@cgsheen1 I was going to post in another thread but didn't want to thread jack, I'm hopeful to make it to Zcon in your area next year and check out your cars

The difference is modern bumpers are TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin) and a urethane bumper is different. I routinely plastic weld TPO bumpers for my cars I repair but Urethane bumpers can't be plastic welded. At least not in the traditional meaning. TPO is also stiff and takes paint better because it's more solid and less rubber like than urethane. Some TPO bumpers for 240z's would be very interesting

Not a "snark" - just a sigh from a bona fide Turbo Swap and EFI Enthusiast... Always have been and never apologetic. And although I sigh, I never fault anyone else's decisions concerning their own vehicles. A comment is just a comment, everyone has their own opinion, and some have greater experience in a certain sphere than others.

You might also consider using vinyl paint. I used it to re-colour my Z's interior (from black to butterscotch). Pix below should give you an idea of the flexibility and adhesion characteristics (I've seen zero evidence of paint lifting over the ten years since I originally did the application). It sprays on easily using an HVLP gun and doesn't require much in the way of surface prep. It took me three coats to achieve full coverage over the black soft and hard trim pieces. We had a supplier in the Toronto area (Parasol) who would custom mix colors from a customer-supplied paint chip (my results we spot-on, based on a small piece that I snipped from the hem of my new butterscotch seat covers). I expect you'll be able to find a comparable supplier somewhere in the U.S. south-east.

I used this on my front air damage prior to paint. Can't remember who recommended it, but seems to work.

Yes, the plan is to paint the airdam too. Hopefully it will stick...

Thank you, Buddy.

Too dark, black really. I looked again of my pix of the Franklin Mint manifold above and the true, not light distorted, color is at the extreme ends.

Update. It's been several months when I posted questions about a soft feeling brake pedal in my 79 zx. I checked the vacuun check valve and found it to be defective. I didn't even use my vacuum test equipment but instead just removed it and blew and sucked through it and knew it wasn't holding vacuum. I replaced it and now have very good, stock brakes again.

Yes, take it a lock smith. If the core can be removed from the cylinder it isn't that difficult to make a key. Key blanks are common. I can't recall if the core is wafers or pins. Come to think of it, it's a double cut key, so it would be a wafer lock. To remove the core from the cylinder without a key, not a big deal to pick the lock. I have no idea what a lock smith would charge, but it's not a big deal. When I closed my business I kept all the key blanks, I probably have what you need. Jim