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The original pump includes an inlet strainer, but I don’t think the O’Reilly’s E16078 has one. In principle it’s the same style as the Bosch 0580 254 044 that replaced the factory unit. If you want to add a pre-filter, you can install two 5/16" filters in parallel to avoid fuel starvation and prevent cavitation in the pump. Their only purpose is to protect the pump, the filter up front will protect the injectors. 280 Series Fuel pump Alternatives Rev 1.pdf

My new neighbors are smoking turkey legs today. I'm about to go introduce myself.

Mine were more crud from leaving old gas in them for too long. The tanks were good and solid after I pressure washed the outside of them. That muriatic acid made the inside like new but after sloshing around for 5 minutes I had to pour in about 3 gallons of mixed ahead of time baking soda and water to neutralize the acid then emptied that into an empty 5 and killed a lot of ant beds around my property. Then the acetone to remove the water, quick hit with the leaf blower and then the Red-Kote. Sloshed that around completely covering the tank and let that drain out into another 5 then direct sunlight for 30 minutes, then another round with the leaf blower. Then I put that bitch on a shelf and got drunk. It was very nerve wracking for this 'ol boy, but when all was said and done I was and still am proud of what I did. You see, I hate following directions.

Happy Thanksgiving to the Z family!!! I am grateful for this group!

Use the wheel to get close and the brake lever for final adjustment. Tighten the wheel until the drum barely goes on, then pump the brake lever a few times. If the self-adjustment is working the lever will only come up about half-way. As you drive the car occasionally you'll notice that parking brake lever got tighter as the wheel moves a notch.

🤣 OMG... I used to do that... Thank goodness I haven't seen a phone cord in decades!

Just got the harmonic balancer Back. Looks really good. Namerow asked for pictures.

Have you seen this? Inside a stranger's house with my parents and I was unwinding their phone cords.😇

Also check the vent hose seals from the fuel tank where they come through the floor. The grommet at the license plate light where the wires pass through the rear pan. The seal around the filler neck and the grommet at the drain for the radio antennae

The aftermarket hardware kit at O'Reilly's has 8 of those retainer washers rather than 4 retainers and 4 cup washers. One on each side of the spring to keep it centered and in place - would work.

Happy Thanksgiving!!! Fire up those ovens... I'm smoking some turkey this year... ;)

Submerge the sending unit in CLR (calcium, lime, and rust) for 24 - 48 hrs. It will come out clean and usable.

Good thread! I get to pick my DD based on need... 2000 Lexus LX470 (Landcruiser) But mostly drive this daily: 2014 BMW Z4 (E89) Manual

Years ago I sacrificed this Craftsman screwdriver to make a Z brake adjustment tool, it has worked very well.

Good question. Pull the parking light fuse and see if things change.

I've been using a set of FIAMM air horns for about 50 years, very Euro and VERY loud!!! 😲

Absolutely! Will take me a little while, but the quality and sound were great on the test run!

Steve, though I’m sure you’re not surprised, it worked! Thank you!

It will even both sides out. It affects the adjustment of the shoes so will affect the brake pedal. Can't remember for sure but I think that you will also feel the brakes apply a little higher on the pedal after a notch gets taken up. It's one reason that seems rational for converting to disc brakes if you're in to precise brake performance. Should emphasize though that you need to be sure the parts are clean, lubricated, and not worn, in order for the system to work correctly. You can test it with a drum off by pulling the cable by hand and watching the parts move, I think.

Green/White = Positive for gauge lights Red/Blue = Returns gauge lights to the rheostat (gauge light dimmer) Blue = Accessory (Key Switched) Constant power would be come from the cigarette lighter (Blue/White)

It's there strictly for water management (by design, it can't contribute to sealing off exhaust gases from the cabin because covers only the top and sides of the hatch opening, while remaining completely open to the outside at the bottom). If your Z is a later-model 240 (where there are no vents on the lower hatch surface), the most likely culprit will be your main weatherstripping ("the large weatherstrip that's been installed years ago"). It may have lost some of its original shape after years of living 99% of its life in a crushed state while the hatch is closed. IIRC, some owners also found that the gasket around their taillights housings had deteriorated, allowing exhaust gases to enter the cabin through the rear panel. If your Z is an earlier-model 240 (vents on the lower hatch surface), that's a whole different (and more challenging) ballgame. There are several threads on the CZCC site that discuss problems (several) and remedies for this design.

That's the fuel damper. It absorbs pressure pulses, from one end or the other. Not much to it and they seem to survive without problems. Don't forget that pressure after the pump is at least 36.3 psi. Those small plastic filters aren't rated for that. I made a loop in my fuel line after the pump to solve that sharp bend problem.

I'm fortunate that I have multiple daily drivers, rather than just one. In summer time the 240Z is my daily, along with a R53 Mini Cooper S, a 1999 Mazda Miata Sport, an Aston Martin V8 Vantage and a Toyota GR86. For load hauling and snow runs the Subaru legacy wagon gets the nod. Between my wife, my son and myself we need at least 3 dailies!

A work colleague of mine and I spent about an hour yesterday getting some video of the 240z I restored (got it on the road on Dec 31 last year). Unlike me, he has skills and talent for editing and creating videos. Have a look! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ3ieeuqjwI

Just got this back today from Sanderson's headers South Francisco it's ceramic coated inside and out $150. Nice people quality workmanship

My daily driver.

I have used an epoxy product from Caswell to coat a tank. It's very thick and would deal with pinholes pretty well. I suspect that tank will have quite a few pinholes once it's properly cleaned. It might be hard to do in an apartment setting...

What would you say the success rate is. I’ve seen both results reported here. The overall condition of the tank is probably going to be the deciding factor. I had my tank redone at a shop, keep in mind you’re at their mercy as far as the job you get. At the end of the day my tank began to leak from minuscule rust pit holes. That’s when I decided to purchase a new tank. Again it’s all about what shape your tank is in and you really won’t know until you remove it.

Saw this and I am tempted to purchase. We had Aurora slot cars growing up and they were a ton of fun. HO scale, so would fit with my trains.

What I have...the red/blue are flat head, the blue/clear are philips, and the black/clear are torx. This seems to be the standard from what I've seen in stores for decades. Maybe some older tools were different.

I am currently going through the various parts of the car and cleaning, re-furbing and painting (as needed) so that everything will be ready to install once the body returns. I figured I would post a few 'Unique to the early cars' parts here (or things that Rich has never seen before) on a 240Z. On the gas pedal there is a small bracket at the very top. I am not sure of the purpose of that feature. My guess is that it was intended to be used in tandem with the deleted throttle lever. The cover on the wiper motor is something I have never seen. Nice custom fit. The later bag covers were probably cheaper to produce. The steering column transition brackets have overmolded rubber in the locations where the shaft would be attached. I guess they decided that these were not needed. Interesting to see though.

Well, it should be no surprise really, but we are all (well most of us) carrying a little device that is more spatially aware than we ever dreamed. The humble iPhone has considerable power to know where it in space, what is level and what is plumb, which way is north and how far away you are from the sales at Best Buy…. Built in apps already expose those powers. Check out Level and Measure. I’m not going to go to great lengths to describe what I found, I’m just going to leave a web link here to an company that has developed an app and some simple hardware that I think is incredibly good at what it does. Read their story and see what you think. It’s called: Gyraline https://gyraline.com/products/the-case It consists of a little flat 3D printed plate that you mount your iPhone into. The plate has nubbins that let you place it against your wheel’s rim lip in a dependable way so you can align your phone to the rim correctly. Fire up the app, place the phone in a few key spots, push buttons, BOOM. Out spits your alignment. I will say I have their version 1, been using it for about a year, and that it works. I can get a toe in and camber measurement in literally 1 minute. All four wheels. Yeah…… I’ve compared it to “Real” alignments and it’s very very close. I just had my Mazda cx70 done at the dealership and I plan on comparing it to what they said as well. Anyway, read, study, you decide. The thing is not cheap, they know what they have. They are challenging the big guys with their marketing materials. No more string for me…..

I borrowed ideas from these two guys and added a few of my own from past motorcycle tank plus the instructions from Red-Kote. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/ https://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

I've done two tanks and it's not hard. You have to get everything together and plan it out as things have to be done pretty quick. 10 years ago it was $50 for all the chemicals. The only thing is letting it cure for about a month, most important. So if your in hurry to get on the road buy a new one. If not clean and coat it yourself. A gallon of acid, $5, couple boxes of baking soda, $5, gallon of acetone $10, quart of red-kote $30. Plenty of empty 5 gallon buckets and a leaf blower.

You can also bench test it before you reinstall it. Quite a few articles here on the site referencing that.

Good question (and my mistake). The research project that I reviewed involved the development of an app for a smart watch.

@siteunseen THANK YOU! This is the kind of info I was looking for. Much obliged.

Dang, that is pretty cool. BRE livery one of the greatest all-time in racing.

S30.World I wouldn’t give it another thought. Many folks on this site have purchased tanks from them including myself and were very satisfied.

My July '70 car, #6521 has all of those features as well. I knew about your points 1 & 2 but not 3. Interesting, I learned something today, thanks.

Wonder why some Craftsman's are red and blue and some are clear and blue? I've got a lot of both, even a set a of barbeque tools made with the red and blue handles. Best one I've ever used, found on the side of the interstate too.

Steve, I don’t think there is any confusion on the wiring. I was teasing my brother Yarb…

I recognize the beat, never saw the video or heard the whole song. A song about drugs, with a "don't do it" disclaimer in the middle. They even shout freebase, and (co)ca(i)ne... sugar. Drugs. rang dang diggity da rang da dang Of course, Eric Clapton turned an old blues song about cocaine in to a big hit. Rock and roll...

And, as I noted in 2023, that NAPA kit seems to be NLA. But do your own checks. You might just get lucky and find one sitting on some NAPA shop's shelves. I just re-checked my old files. The NAPA kit (PN 6601000) was described as a 'RANCO HTR-100' rebuild kit. It was evidently applicable to the heaters used in the Studebaker Avanti, so it's conceivable that it was used across the entire Studebaker line (Lark, Hawk, etc). A little snooping around a Studebaker owners club website might turn up a lead. RANCO appears to have been swallowed up by Robertshaw. Most of the focus for the RANCO product line these days appears to be in electronic temperature controllers used for commercial/industrial heating systems. I suspect that the 'RANCO' of 2025 may be nothing more than a brand name (i.e. it's unlikely you'll find a RANCO factory with a parts desk). Just one thing, though: I see that NAPA Canada lists something called a 'URO Parts Heater Valve Repair Kit'. A little checking indicates that URO Parts is a brand marketed by A.P.A. Industries (Simi Valley, CA). A.P.A. provides aftermarket parts (incl. cooling system parts) for a variety of European, Asian and North American cars and trucks. In their website, they say: "A.P.A. specializes in accurate reproduction parts for classic vehicles, including a wide variety of items that are no longer available from the dealer". Maybe there might be some leads there. The heater control valve design used in the 510 and Z probably wasn't unique to Nissan. In fact, the Nissan heater design bears certain resemblances to the British 'Smiths' unit that was used in so many UK cars back in the 1950's and 60's. A little investigation along these lines might turn up a British shop that specializes in heater restorations and has a back room filled with obscure parts like a little rubber washer that will fit your 510's control valve. Try this link for a starting point... The MG Experience - Smith's Heater Restoration

I would add some details of how, exactly, you are evaluating "spark". With a spark plug at the end of a plug wire, through the coil center terminal, with a spark tester...? Are you cranking the engine when you do this? Have you disconnected the original module by the fuse box or did you resintall it? And, or, but, I have noticed that you do not have any battery power going to the coil in your picture. You only have the coil connected to the module and no pwer to the module either. You need power to the coil positive terminal. Also, use your meter and make sure that the mounting screw of the module has a good ground. And make sure that it's the correct screw. Only one of the screws completes the ground through the module, it has a thicker ferrule. Looks like you have the correct screw but you might not have good contact through that screw head or where it seats on the TB. The TB is not the best place to mount it. That's where all of the coil current flows when the module is doing its thing. And, it you plan to run it for long you need a proper heat sink under the flat part of the module. It gets hot and heat will cause them to fail.

Ewwwwwww. They coated the boards. "Conformal coating" it's called. Looks like every place the coating wasn't perfect, the metal underneath corroded. So the P.O. commuted underwater to get to work every day?? ☺️

well, looky what I found.... Some carb cleaner and it will be good as new I guess I ll be having fun with the HEI