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Put on your party hats and toot your horns. Join me in celebrating the 54th Anniversary of the day I bought my 1971 240Z. Today, it sits in my driveway proudly showing its age. Unfortunately, I'm also showing my age and have a little more trouble getting in and out of it and working the pedals than I did in 1971. Great car, great fun, 54 years of great road adventures!

A work colleague of mine and I spent about an hour yesterday getting some video of the 240z I restored (got it on the road on Dec 31 last year). Unlike me, he has skills and talent for editing and creating videos. Have a look! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ3ieeuqjwI

But the price of obesity drugs are much cheaper.

Well done! Congratulations from another OO.🎉

I offer two different versions of my conversion bell housings to do the reverse tilt. One for the CD009 and one for the TL70. Most of the people that buy my head end up tilting them so I offer the bell housings to assist in that.

Years ago I sacrificed this Craftsman screwdriver to make a Z brake adjustment tool, it has worked very well.

Well, I gave up trying to find it and just yanked it off with a puller lol

The next thing to attack is the firewalls . I can’t finish the passenger upper frame because I need access to spot weld the firewall panel . The firewall is sandwiched between the inner fender wall and outer . I also have an issue with the passenger side firewall panel from KF . The drivers side worked out pretty sweet and I should be able to do a decent job welding it in . The biggest obstacle is that I wanted to preserve the vin# that’s stamped on the wall so I had to cut around it . The passenger side doesn’t line up right as you can see but the pics . They said they will send me a new one . I think the panel wasn’t square on their stamping machine . KF has been really good supporting their products . I’ll also add that their drivers firewall panel does not include the doubler for the inside

It's been a whole year since the surgery! Can hardly believe it, time flies when you're on the better end of healing. Thanks for all the prayers and well wishes, they worked. Next is a mid-foot fusion that I'm dreading but the docs said after a year with the knee replacement they could do it. I had planned a day of relaxing in the driver's seat of the 240 but it has rained like a cow pissing on a flat rock. Maybe tomorrow?

There was a post around that had someone replacing the guts of the old module with the new HEI but I cant find it. I might do that, but mount the box on the firewall or something. I like that it would appear more period correct. @EuroDat did that to his '77

As I've been saying for some time now; the upper middle class collector car market has been depressed for at least the past 10 months. Yes, should have taken the 90K.

Too many projects are IMG_2691.movIMG_2691.movdelaying this RHD hs30… Heading to the wetblasting area to determine if anything is left to work with……

Submerge the sending unit in CLR (calcium, lime, and rust) for 24 - 48 hrs. It will come out clean and usable.

Good thread! I get to pick my DD based on need... 2000 Lexus LX470 (Landcruiser) But mostly drive this daily: 2014 BMW Z4 (E89) Manual

Saw this and I am tempted to purchase. We had Aurora slot cars growing up and they were a ton of fun. HO scale, so would fit with my trains.

What I have...the red/blue are flat head, the blue/clear are philips, and the black/clear are torx. This seems to be the standard from what I've seen in stores for decades. Maybe some older tools were different.

I am currently going through the various parts of the car and cleaning, re-furbing and painting (as needed) so that everything will be ready to install once the body returns. I figured I would post a few 'Unique to the early cars' parts here (or things that Rich has never seen before) on a 240Z. On the gas pedal there is a small bracket at the very top. I am not sure of the purpose of that feature. My guess is that it was intended to be used in tandem with the deleted throttle lever. The cover on the wiper motor is something I have never seen. Nice custom fit. The later bag covers were probably cheaper to produce. The steering column transition brackets have overmolded rubber in the locations where the shaft would be attached. I guess they decided that these were not needed. Interesting to see though.

Well, it should be no surprise really, but we are all (well most of us) carrying a little device that is more spatially aware than we ever dreamed. The humble iPhone has considerable power to know where it in space, what is level and what is plumb, which way is north and how far away you are from the sales at Best Buy…. Built in apps already expose those powers. Check out Level and Measure. I’m not going to go to great lengths to describe what I found, I’m just going to leave a web link here to an company that has developed an app and some simple hardware that I think is incredibly good at what it does. Read their story and see what you think. It’s called: Gyraline https://gyraline.com/products/the-case It consists of a little flat 3D printed plate that you mount your iPhone into. The plate has nubbins that let you place it against your wheel’s rim lip in a dependable way so you can align your phone to the rim correctly. Fire up the app, place the phone in a few key spots, push buttons, BOOM. Out spits your alignment. I will say I have their version 1, been using it for about a year, and that it works. I can get a toe in and camber measurement in literally 1 minute. All four wheels. Yeah…… I’ve compared it to “Real” alignments and it’s very very close. I just had my Mazda cx70 done at the dealership and I plan on comparing it to what they said as well. Anyway, read, study, you decide. The thing is not cheap, they know what they have. They are challenging the big guys with their marketing materials. No more string for me…..

And, as I noted in 2023, that NAPA kit seems to be NLA. But do your own checks. You might just get lucky and find one sitting on some NAPA shop's shelves. I just re-checked my old files. The NAPA kit (PN 6601000) was described as a 'RANCO HTR-100' rebuild kit. It was evidently applicable to the heaters used in the Studebaker Avanti, so it's conceivable that it was used across the entire Studebaker line (Lark, Hawk, etc). A little snooping around a Studebaker owners club website might turn up a lead. RANCO appears to have been swallowed up by Robertshaw. Most of the focus for the RANCO product line these days appears to be in electronic temperature controllers used for commercial/industrial heating systems. I suspect that the 'RANCO' of 2025 may be nothing more than a brand name (i.e. it's unlikely you'll find a RANCO factory with a parts desk). Just one thing, though: I see that NAPA Canada lists something called a 'URO Parts Heater Valve Repair Kit'. A little checking indicates that URO Parts is a brand marketed by A.P.A. Industries (Simi Valley, CA). A.P.A. provides aftermarket parts (incl. cooling system parts) for a variety of European, Asian and North American cars and trucks. In their website, they say: "A.P.A. specializes in accurate reproduction parts for classic vehicles, including a wide variety of items that are no longer available from the dealer". Maybe there might be some leads there. The heater control valve design used in the 510 and Z probably wasn't unique to Nissan. In fact, the Nissan heater design bears certain resemblances to the British 'Smiths' unit that was used in so many UK cars back in the 1950's and 60's. A little investigation along these lines might turn up a British shop that specializes in heater restorations and has a back room filled with obscure parts like a little rubber washer that will fit your 510's control valve. Try this link for a starting point... The MG Experience - Smith's Heater Restoration

@siteunseen The infamous Librarian. Please do your due diligence and bail Charles out of the issue at hand. You Da Best!!

Oh, that was no accident. That was desperation and frustration right there!! Cutting wheel on a 4 1/2 angle grinder, and then a BFH to crack through the center portion that I only cut through partway (so I didn't cut into the axle flanges).

Had to resort to the old drum puller once. Came off with a very loud bang. Putting on a couple of lug nuts loosely prevents it from exploding into your lap

I didn’t make the larger pieces of upper frame rail. Same car I bought my roof from I also bought all his straight scrap pieces . It was enough of a challenge to make that 1” filler strip between the pieces he sent me - ha . I don’t have the tools to do that complex of bends and curves. The tool is just a right angle air grinder with a Roloc sanding discs . I use that tool more than most . I have cut- off wheel mandrel and scotch bright disc options . I actually have 3 of them with different mandrels on each .

Actually...

We’d need the @Yarb inator to help us with the electrons.

Winner winner chicken dinner, we have spark Now im gonna look into some heat sink and stew on where i want to mount it. Time to move on to the fuel system. I know the fuel is toast and the tank will need to be cleaned. I’ll probably start on removing that and see what condition the lines are in. I’m excited!

Yeah, hopefully it should be easy to tell. In any event, it's got to be better than this!!! Hahaha!

When I spoke with Sean @ ZStory, he recommended the Street-sport or Race-sport for my build. I'm leaning towards the street-sport, but as my build increases in cost, I may just re-use the MSA header I have for now and get the ZStory later, especially with the tariffs and all...

I'm installing new KYB's I like the idea of a light coating of lube on the inner walls.

Sold for $101K on BAT in 2019... Adjusted for inflation, to break even it needed to sell for $129K in todays money. Nonetheless in todays market - $90K was a pretty strong offer.

To get my plug out I used a small pipe wrench and a bottle jack to loosen mine. Situated the wrench so I could get the jack under the handle then pumped the jack a few times and it loosened up.

Yes you're correct. However, will a customer accept an exhaust manifold that will start to show corrosion almost the minute he leaves my shop after spending X amount of $ for a Y operation? Asking rhetorically as the answer is obvious. Everyone and I mean EVERYONE was very happy with the Jet-Hot cast look including, but not limited to, the Franklin Mint car.

I had her up on jack stands and stood about a 12" piece of 6x6 up on the jack and lifted her up. But the block and jack wanted to slide out once she was up high enough. I had to hold the jack in place while someone put the cubes under the tires

What would you say the success rate is. I’ve seen both results reported here. The overall condition of the tank is probably going to be the deciding factor. I had my tank redone at a shop, keep in mind you’re at their mercy as far as the job you get. At the end of the day my tank began to leak from minuscule rust pit holes. That’s when I decided to purchase a new tank. Again it’s all about what shape your tank is in and you really won’t know until you remove it.

Good question (and my mistake). The research project that I reviewed involved the development of an app for a smart watch.

@siteunseen THANK YOU! This is the kind of info I was looking for. Much obliged.

Dang, that is pretty cool. BRE livery one of the greatest all-time in racing.

My July '70 car, #6521 has all of those features as well. I knew about your points 1 & 2 but not 3. Interesting, I learned something today, thanks.

Wonder why some Craftsman's are red and blue and some are clear and blue? I've got a lot of both, even a set a of barbeque tools made with the red and blue handles. Best one I've ever used, found on the side of the interstate too.

Steve, I don’t think there is any confusion on the wiring. I was teasing my brother Yarb…

I recognize the beat, never saw the video or heard the whole song. A song about drugs, with a "don't do it" disclaimer in the middle. They even shout freebase, and (co)ca(i)ne... sugar. Drugs. rang dang diggity da rang da dang Of course, Eric Clapton turned an old blues song about cocaine in to a big hit. Rock and roll...

This was solved today by retarding time! Thanks

Was that an accident or wanting them off? BFH love!

Lol!! The Yarbinator. Love it! ☺️

There's a hole in the brake drum. Had a rubber plug in it. Might still be there.

I assumed he was mourning the loss of another turbo block to N/A..............

well, looky what I found.... Some carb cleaner and it will be good as new I guess I ll be having fun with the HEI