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Im in good company!!

Todays event... I put a160 degree thermostat in. Didn't expect it would help anything, and it didn't. But just for completeness, I had to. So cut some gaskets from sheet with the scissors that came from the first aid kit and the hole punch borrowed from the hotel lobby desk. Haha!

Finally figured out what was up with my log ins . Anywho- went to ZCON . Me and a buddy drove down the 4.5 hours from Indiana . The Z drove great with the freshly tuned ITBS. Had most fun in the parking lots talking nuts and bolts . Finally got to meet Captain Obvious . Wish I knew he was there earlier and could have spent more time hanging out .

@Yarb Made a little progress today. I got the reverse lights fixed with the help of Yarb and my little helper was in town too. Yarb sent me a new switch he had. It's longer than the one I ordered Yarb, do you know the part number for that switch?

Proof I made it! This is at the judged show. I wasn't ever able to register though because I think it was full. But the zcon organizers liked the car and told me to park it on the show field anyway. Im honored!!

Changed out fuel filters from 2015 when I did all the work on my 240. Anyone that may be on the fence about Red-Kote fuel tank liner, done the right way it's fantastic from what these filters show or don't show. Heres the G2 right out of the tank. It looked great besides being 10 years old. Fuel came out clear to as I drained out about a gallon before my dumbasss realized the hose on the tank had to be clamped off. Lawnmower gas.😊 I haven't fooled with mine since a knee surgery sidelined me but after @Captain Obvious's heroic adventure got me fired up enough to at least do something. If that beer guzzling rascal can do what he did, ain't nobody got an excuse.😂

Thanks for the continued support guys! The car has a total of 71000 miles. And looking at the condition, it's a true 71000. So it's typical sketchy details when buying something like this used, but it appears the odometer has not rolled over. And of those miles, I've put about 1400 of them on since I got the car on the road. 400 before departing for Nashville, and about 1000 to got here.

I present to you, road weary from about 2000 miles of adventure... The OG:

So I'm home. The bottom line is that the car fared better than I did. Remember in the beginning, I was worried about two things... My radiator and my back? Well the radiator didn't get any worse, but my back did. By halfway through the day at the people's choice show, I was hurting. I'll survive, but it's unpleasant. The radiator... I had talked to a couple people about the troubles I was having and they put it out on the Z network that I was looking for a radiator to get me home. Well as a result of that networking, there was a guy coming to the people's choice show that was going to bring me a radiator. We found eachother at the show, and I snagged a rad. He wasn't sure of the condition, but was optimistic about it. Said it looked good, and as far as he knew, it was in good shape. That night, @madkaw and I swapped radiators after the banquet. Out in the parking lot, draining the fluid, pulling mine out and tossing in the replacement. Now remember that my back is pretty much shot at this point, so when I say "we changed the radiator", I really mean "he changed the radiator". So when he wasn't looking, I snapped a pic of madkaw working on my car: Bottom line? We had to do the job twice, cause the replacement rad I got from the guy at the show leaked horribly and wouldn't hold coolant. Sigh. So, we drained again and put my original back in. It holds coolant fine, but has a couple clogged tubes. I'll just have to watch the temps on the way home and adjust my speeds and load accordingly. My original radiator works fine until I'm going up a long hill on the interstate at 70 on a hot day. Thankfully as I drove north, the ambient temps dropped some and I was much better off. By the time I got to Maryland, the temps had dropped enough that I was able to maintain 70-75 on the interstates without worry. Thanks to everyone along the way that helped with the trip and glad for the chance to meet some of the forum guys!! @madkaw @Ninjaneer11 @zed2 @Parman @inline6

Great meeting in person too. And agreed.. Wish we had figured it out sooner and spent more time together. See what happens when you stop hanging out here? ☺️ I've got a pic of you working on my car. I'll put it in my adventure thread. Haha!!

@madkaw That’s pretty damned fancy madkaw……good to see you’re still alive! 🥳

VR1 10W30 $26.97 5 qt. jug, new filter $8 at Walmart. Cleaned and gapped ngk plugs $0. Adjusted valve lash $0. Idles smooth as glass. Took maybe 2 hours. Satisfaction for myself, PRICELESS! Beer:30 now.

Here is the SU tuning kit mentioned in post above. I just checked on eBay and they are available for $40. The small aluminum fitting laying on top of the gray package is the one I was referring to.

This is for you, not your car.🙂 Something I figured out after getting older and working on these cars. You can help your back when doing all that tedious engine bay stuff by simply running it up on a set of ramps or raising it up and using jack-stands to get the motor up so you're not bending over all day. Another thing I had learn the hard way was resting my elbows on the fenders would cause dents I ended popping out with a suction cup from HarborFreight. Cover the fenders with anything like towels or paint drop cloths using magnetic bowls that hold all the fasteners. I'm about to adjust the valves on mine. I use a set of Rhino ramps to get my lowered 240 up to, looks like about 38". Just a courtesy bit of advice you probably figured out way before I did and it really helps. Have fun!

Not racing related, but Newman and Redford, back together again… RIP Bob.

Maybe this is the point where you decide which you want most - working tach or good running engine... Back when I learned to drive - and for years thereafter - cars didn't come with tachometers. They ran and we drove them all over the place anyway. (but, from the factory that car ran VERY WELL with a stock coil, a stock ballast resistor, a stock distributor, AND a stock tachometer. Just sayin')

Hi Site Been a while….not sure, but whatever adds .080 inches….if they are .040 inches, 2 would do. Don’t hesitate to call Eiji….tell him you’re my cousin and if wants to keep eating steak at our house, he needs to be nice! 🤪 He’ll sell you the right stuff.

First thing - the AFM does indeed have a wiring connector, it's of Bosch design (as is the entire EFI system in your Z) and it's, like most Bosch connectors of that era, a PITA to remove. If your AFM is in place it will be difficult to see as it's underneath all that. Second thing - you really need to make sure the injectors are opening. It's sort of easy if you have the right stuff, and can be done in place IF you know how to release and remove the BOSCH injector connectors... If for instance you HAD a spare Bosch injector connector with a pigtail, you could put it on each injector in sequence and use a 9-volt battery to quickly apply and remove voltage to the pigtail wires. Yes, a 9-volt battery will open an injector. If you hear the distinct CLICK of the injector opening you can immediately rule out the "crapolla, the injector is stuck closed". (here I have to say: one side of the battery needs to be permanently connected, the other (doesn't actually matter which) needs to be loose so you can just tap the exposed wire end to the bare pole quickly. You DO NOT want to hold voltage to the injector except for a very brief period of time - that's how they work, milliseconds... IF STUCK they in truth need to be pulled and cleaned (and flow balanced) by a professional shop OR replaced - BUT most of the time I can get a stuck injector opening again by rapidly tapping the wire for awhile (several seconds or more) until I hear it clicking. That may help you in your effort to get it running even if things are not all perfect. The injector is a coil (an electromagnet) so both of those spade connectors are actually tied together by the coil. You should see that when testing with an Ohm Meter - leads placed on the two should show a steady Ohm value. If that circuit is OPEN, the injector is bad and you can't fix it. Now, you can also test that the injectors are getting voltage - they should ALWAYS show battery voltage if the Ignition switch is in the ON (or Start) position. And, because it's a coil, you WILL see voltage on BOTH sides IF the harness wiring is connected to the injector. If the injector connector has been removed you will see battery voltage ON ONE SIDE of the connector an not the other. The ECU asserts a ground to the other side of the connector to open the injector and, like I said, this happens FAST. You will never see this activity with a meter (oscilloscope yes). Because they are basically a coil IT DOES NOT MATTER which side gets power and which gets a ground signal. Most people wire the "hot" side consistently to one side of the connectors, BUT they don't have to! There is NO "+" side or "-" side. If there was, the injector would tell you.

Of course I think of you every time I wear that shirt. Wish you could have made it to the show. Miss the opportunity to share a beer with you!

I got no words... This is right now. Couldn't be more appropriate.

Phoenix I think it will be in September...not like I have to work that week... :)

I went to a local glass place and they had clear windshields for 105$ each . I bought 3 !

ITS ALIVE. i decided to take off every electrical connection off and deep clean each pin. they didnt have bad corrosion but the copper had turned green where it wasnt connected for the last 20 years. I double checked each pin ohms coming through the ECU and finally got each reading within spec. Started it up and boom perfect idle. I appreciate all you're guys help. the resources and information helped a ton. now to bleed the clutch, find out why the break pedel is stuck and see if this thing can move!

@cgsheen1 made a suggestion, Are you not willing to try it? Takes 2 minutes.

Easy test, take the ballast RESISTOR out of the equation: Take the G/W wire OFF the ballast, hook it up to the B/W that's connected to the other end of the ballast. Run the engine. Is it better? Is it worse? Don't notice a change at all? (Better: leave the ballast out - figure a good way to connect the G/W and B/W permanently cuz VOLTAGE. Worse: hook it back up the way it was. No diff: Hook it back up the way it was - if you're sure there was no change.) (I haven't said yet what I'd really recommend which is: replace all your harness wiring, especially the engine bay harness which suffers the most degradation over 50+ years of living on this Earth... Few people listen - even me - I'm just barely doing that in my own car (and it turned 50 last year).)

O.P., you should probably pull a spark plug or six and see if (how much) they are sooted up. The Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) on an EFI engine is "vacuum referenced" or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) referenced. Meaning it has a hose connection to the intake manifold. The FPR is supposed to maintain a fairly constant fuel pressure differential with the manifold pressure. Nissan uses 2.5 BAR or 36.3 PSI as the required differential. That means WITH the engine NOT RUNNING and fuel pump RUNNING the pressure to the fuel rail and injectors should ~36.3 PSI. When the engine IS running, the FPR will SUBTRACT the manifold pressure while under VACUUM or ADD the manifold pressure if under boost (positive manifold pressure). You don't need to consider boost. But, say you have 10 PSI of VACUUM while the engine is running at idle, your pressure at the fuel rail and injectors should be ~26.3 PSI (36.3 - 10 PSI). First: The ECU DOES NOT get the "tach signal" - that circuit if for the GAUGE ONLY. It is pointless to look for it. The Electronic Ignition Module figures out when to send a signal for the coil to fire - it gets the information from the distributor electronics (pretty sure - I haven't handled the original Bosch L-Jetronic for a blue moon...) Second: Have you tried operating the engine WITHOUT the cold start valve? Disconnected from wiring and/or fuel? (IS your engine only running on the cold start fuel??)

I’ve mentioned it some many times in the past about replacing each and every connector on the EFI harness and cleaning each connection in that arena. You will be amazed at the corrosion that you find on each connector and the wire itself. I had to shorten some wire by over an inch before I could find wiring that was suitable to crimp/solder.

How long since a new fuel filter up front on the passenger's side? Sounds awful familiar of a clogged up tank. You can run a hose before the pump to a gas can to bypass the tank as an easy test

That's a late one. Never heard it. I was listening to them on vinyl on a cheap record player with a penny taped on the stylus.

I have some OEM, two used and one NOS.

What do you think @Mark Maras , Raisin Bran or Chex?

They look better wet.😁 Mine has water allergies though. Now for some windshield time.

@Yarb has been trying to track down an electrical problem…

Glad to hear you made it home and the radiator didn't become a bigger problem. Glad we got to connect last week! Planning to get the cooling sorted so you can drive it to Pheonix next year? It's only like 2,500 miles haha.

Glad you came to ZCON and gave me some inspiration on my future engine! I got a pic of our cars together and one of yours at the show Saturday. Hope to see you again at a future event!

Today I didn’t do anything but drive it !!

Your clutch master and slave cylinders are probably corroded and have bad seals. If it's been sitting for ten years. Your brake master cylnder also, along with the rear wheel cylinders and maybe the caliper bores. It's just what happens. I would remove the brake master cylinder before trying to use it, before you squirt brake fluid in to the vacuum booster. If you're lucky the brake booster is dry and still usable. Nickels and dimes...

The engine can run off puddled fuel in the intake manifold. If the injectors were opening the engine would continue to run. cgcheen's suggestion about testing with a 9 volt battery was a good one. You can run separate jumper wires if you don't have an EV1 connector. With a 9 volt alkaline battery you don't have to worry about melting wires if you accidentally short them. You'll hear a click when you connect the 9 volts, if they're opening. Also, with 9 volts you can leave the voltage connected while you tap them. You'll have the solenoid pulling them open if you can get them to break loose. Pin 1 at the ECU is the ignition signal that the ECU uses to monitor engine RPM. It's connected to the negative terminal of the coil. It should read battery voltage with the key on. But it also needs a certain type of voltage pulse. There are things that can screw it up. You're making great progress.

Have you read datsungarage p79 modification? You shave 80 off, shim cam towers 80 higher and use the valves from the N head. https://datsunzgarage.us/p79/

Grab another tach off eBay and go from there.

Couldn't help you with that, but I doubt either part would keep the tach from operating if it's wired properly (the tach and coil) . And if it's running - and running well - why would you think there might be an issue between the MSD coil and Pertronix module? The distributor module (Pertronix, points, 280ZX "matchbox", whatever) gathers info from the crankshaft and sends a "signal" for the coil to fire. It momentarily asserts a Ground on the coil "-" terminal. The rotor "distributes" the released coil energy to the various spark plugs at the appropriate time. If any of that isn't working properly there would be no well running engine.

Bruce, how many miles have you driven now as i got no idea, a 1000? In my country you can't drive 350 km, you run out of land! :-) Mart.(in)

Horror House on Highway Five (1985)

What a fantastic shot! That could be a poster.

Went on my first road trip of the year with my BC Z club friends. About a dozen of us left from the Vancouver area, I joined from Chilliwack and we made our way to the BC Okanagan. Our original plan was to take the Coquihalla Highway to Kelowna, but a large sinkhole closed that route. We ended up taking the more scenic Hope-Princton Highway. For me it was a 436 mile (700km) return trip. My1970 Zed performed flawlessly, even in high mountain terrain and temperatures in the mid 30's C, (93 F), Our first stop was in Princton, for fuel, and to meet up with a few more Z club members. Here's a pic of a few of us in Princton. Our end destination was Kelowna, where Kelowna Nissan generously us hosted for a welcome event. They put on a great BBQ and offered up some Nissan swag. With other club members that met up with us along the way, there was close to twenty Zeds. The Zed to the left of me is fellow forum member @Chickenman, with his 1976 280Z. Thanks Richard, for the "way home" route ideas. The next morning, quite a few had decided to stay an extra day and enjoy the awesome wineries in the surrounding area. I and others, make the trek back, with most taking the faster, more direct Coquihalla route, as sink hole repairs had been made. I like to take the road less travelled, so I did a solo drive on a longer but more scenic route. This route included highway 5A from Merritt to Princton, that runs beside a seemingly endless series of beautiful lakes. Another bonus was that I was almost the only car on the road, with that route. 🙂 All in all, it was a great weekend. I'm looking forward to the next road trip.😎

Missed 2 car shows yesterday because of rain but made up for it today as did others. A lot of classics out around here on a beautiful day. Car ran great! Here's to the rest of the day fellows, it's drinking time, all driving is over. 🍻

I figured I would let the cat out of the bag. From September 2020 at the unveiling, I thought that Nissan finally designed a Z I would want to buy new. I was too young to buy an S30 or S310 new. I was young and broke when the Z31 and Z32 came out, and I never was really taken by the Z33 or Z34. Yes, the RZ34 is a Z34 with a new wrapper, but I really liked the heritage touches. To me it looks more like a GT car and less boy racer. When I talked to a couple of Nissan people during the pre-sales road shows, they confirmed New Sight Orange would be coming. The first Z I remember was a 260Z in New Sight Orange. It was owned by a former NASA test pilot, and I lived down the street from him. A friend's father bought the car and got it back on the road. My friend got to enjoy it for a few years before the car was hit by an uninsured motorist. My first Z, a 73 was originally New Sight Orange, though someone with questionable taste had it repainted a color similar to Metallic Gold, though it looked worse than a MAACO paint job. I still have that car and hope to return it to New Sight Orange some day. I was excited to hear that Nissan was holding to its word that orange was coming back, but my excitement diminished when I learned it was on the Heritage Edition only with a sticker of $62K (plus whatever the dealers think they can charge for a special edition). So I set about looking for an alternative. I noticed that dealers were finally coming off sticker price for the Z. On the other hand most of those Zs were Gun Metallic. While I don't worry too much about color, I didn't really want grey. No blue Zs with manuals were popping up nearby, but finally a Z in Sport trim showed up at one of the closest dealers sporting Ikazuchi Yellow Pearl paint. I took it for a test drive, and the wife loved it. It felt right for my new daily driver, so a couple of hours later I drove it home. The new Z has very good acceleration as one would expect with 400HP on tap. The steering feels extremely light at low speeds, but the feel improves as speed increased. With no limited slip, it's easy to spin the tire a little getting into traffic. The seats are comfortable, and the shifter is in easy reach. The clutch engages higher than I think it should, but I am just going to live with that. The blind spots are huge, but the blind spot warning system seems to work well. The view out the rear window is small, too. I have an Android phone, so one of the USB slots is taken by the phone if I want to use navigation. If you want more creature comforts, or if you are planning on tracking the car, go for the Performance trim. The yellow pearl paint stands out, but it doesn't look like a taxi, even with the black roof. I have experienced one problem with the car so far. Yesterday, the TPMS monitoring system lost communications with all 4 tires. I drove the car around for a while, and the system found the left front, though that didn't last. I guess I'll see how good the local service department is.

What did you do for the muffler? How does the race header compare to Sean's other headers?