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Circling back as I just wrapped this up. My air compressor was having some issues and wasn't very consistent, so I had to do some repair work on that. After getting that fixed, spraying a few more test shots it looked a lot better. Ended up taping up the underside of the car and plugged the frame rail fuel hose pass-through with a piece of fuel hose with some tape wrapped around it to block the holes. Ended up spraying 3 coats, waiting about 10 minutes between each coat and I'm very happy with the results. It ended up being quite close compared to what was there.

Thanks Guy, but I am disinclined to follow someone else's work in this case. In his ebay post I noted that he "modified" plastic connectors and the metal base. With all of the switches I have refurbed I have not yet found a need to modify the OE components - sometimes replaced with new or from the parts bin but never modified.

Context? Where did that come from? It is Saturday night of course... 🤩

I'm older than that and I still work properly! Sometimes...Sort of...;)

There's some BS going on here. 13Ax14V=182W. I'm not sure whose backside produced a 13A figure. There are 2 (two/dos/zwei) 23W bulbs and a 3W bulb (on the gauge) in the circuit. Please invite the person who gave you that response to come here and show the testing. Until proved otherwise, I posit that someone is covering up for shoddy work. I am interested if someone can make me eat my words. I'll see if I can set up my scope with ammeter to look for transients that even come close to 13A

If you can get to Harbor Freight tomorrow, here's a coupon for the large and small picks: https://go.harborfreight.com/coupons/2025/07/184225-69592/

No biggie, just funning. There are some maybe's. I have a bunch of switches, just not marked as to what they are from. I rely on the visual differences. Graphics, plugs, wires, etc. They did change the switch plugs over the years too. I purchased the headlight and the parking/taillight harness from Dave Irwin long ago and have not had a problem since. I have H4 headlight bulbs and bright tail/ side lights. I did open and clean all my switches myself as well. Made all the difference. Still working well.

I don't think I have ever quoted myself in a reply 😂 New territory!!

Charles, here are some pics of the belt molding and squeegee rubber on my car. Hope this helps with your question and yes, the rubber does trim out inside the window frame.

I did a quick alignment on the front wheels today I mounted the air dam up to the car and test fit the turn signals I worked on the chrome trim sweeps for the door glass but I need some pictures of how they mount. Even with the rear of the door shell? Rubber trimmed inside of the chrome frame? I assume I will have to trim the rubber in place otherwise you might trim the front angle in the wrong place

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I think that's Al Allen, aka URGELIS.

@jfa.series1 can fix you up…..right Jim? Can’t understand why these things don’t work properly….they’re only 54 years old.

I like these shots best

Get a couple of 90 degree picks, 1 large & 1 small. Round off the tips so you don't poke through the hose. First, work the small one around the lip of the hose to break it loose. Then, follow up with the larger one. After you break the adhesion, put some silicon grease on the larger pick and work it around again. Try the tongue-and-groove pliers to twist back and forth until it breaks free.

Be patient. Space heater to warm the whole thing up? (Here, this time of year, we wouldn't be having that problem...) I wouldn't use pliers. I'd try prying the end of the filler hose away from the tank (or the tank away from the filler hose - which ever way you want to look at it.) with one or two long prying tools (whatever works to catch the edge of the hose without harm - thin or wide) Long screwdrivers? Flat pry bar? Regular pry bar? Non-metallic pry tool? But you do need to somehow break the "bond" that the rubber has made with the steel inlet tube. Then treat the filler hose with Meguiar's Hyper Dressing...

I've worked with both and they're basically the same but the 240Z switch has two arms and double the contacts plus an extra for the hazard switch bypass. They definitely figured a less complicated circuit starting with the 260.

Ha! That links back to a post I did almost 7 years ago about using pop rivets to secure the sqeegee rubber to the belt molding, similar to how I did the replacment fuzzy strips to the door panel. @Patcon Charles, If you need some info I can pull off a molding and get some pics of the pop rivets.

Here's what I came up with. Sorry to be late Charles. https://www.google.com/search?q=chrome+door+trim+window+sweeps+classiczcars.com&sca_esv=4aa233782b511ba8&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&ei=sHp2aOugI72TwbkPlr_I2Qg&ved=0ahUKEwjruOPMnb-OAxW9STABHZYfMosQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=chrome+door+trim+window+sweeps+classiczcars.com&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiL2Nocm9tZSBkb29yIHRyaW0gd2luZG93IHN3ZWVwcyBjbGFzc2ljemNhcnMuY29tMggQABiABBiiBDIIEAAYgAQYogQyCBAAGIAEGKIEMggQABiiBBiJBTIIEAAYgAQYogRIpV9Q5QZYnztwAXgAkAEAmAGBAqABwhKqAQYwLjE3LjG4AQPIAQD4AQGYAhKgAqgSwgIOEAAYgAQYsAMYhgMYigXCAggQABiwAxjvBcICCxAAGIAEGLADGKIEwgILEAAYsAMYogQYiQXCAgUQABjvBcICChAhGKABGMMEGArCAgQQIRgKmAMAiAYBkAYJkgcGMS4xNi4xoAeNT7IHBjAuMTYuMbgHoxLCBwYwLjQuMTTIBzo&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Not saying the internal did not change along the way. Part number changes could just be partly related to the graphics on the switch as well. They never sold the internals as separate items that I have heard of.

For me at least, this has been an extremely common problem. On BOTH my personal car and many - if not all - the Z's that came through the shop and throughout the Z community here in Phoenix. Yes, there may be too much amperage going though those contacts as resistance builds up in the wire and connectors BUT: What I have found in every turn signal switch I've repaired (and that has been MANY) is - The original chrome plating on the solid contacts (non-moving) has worn off due to repeated electric arcing across the contact. When you clean the carbon off it leaves a nice brass contact surface that fouls MUCH more quickly. Therefore, depending on your use, you get another 6 months to a year or so before you have to repeat the contact cleaning process. Then your flashers work well enough for a time and have to be taken apart again. (and, you can only un-bend and re-bend those metal tabs that hold the switch together a certain number of times...) My flasher switch (which I have absolutely no idea if it was original to the car) worked well for a few years before I had to take it apart and clean the carbon fouled contacts. Then it became a 6-9 month cycle. I finally got tired of that and bought a different turn signal switch assembly off the internet. I was delighted that it worked well and lasted for quite a few years. I'll remind everyone that I daily drive my 260Z so my T/S get a fair amount of use. (I got this Z running and back on the road Spring of 2009) DROPPING THE AMPERAGE going through the switch will definitely help the contacts to last longer (foul less). But I don't think it's necessarily the ultimate answer. In my case, that didn't last forever either, and I am done with taking the stock switches apart and cleaning, and cleaning, and cleaning the contacts. SO, I followed another dudes post somewhere and replaced the stock switch with a standard metal 3-position rocker switch mounted such that the arm of the rocker is operated by the stock turn signal arm mechanics. Did it about a year and a half ago and I've been very satisfied with the operation. I can buy another one practically anywhere if I ever need to replace it. Under the clam shell you'd never know it was swapped looking at it. That was my solution. I will say too that MY 260Z IS HEAVILY MODIFIED and is not trying to be original in it's representation at all. In fact lately I have replaced my entire engine bay harness and replaced all the stock wiring connectors with Deutsch connectors. As well as a new engine harness built for a different ECU and sheathed with Raychem. The SECOND thing I will mention: IF you remove the actual switch from the turn signal assembly and push it's little "nubin" that sticks out from side-to-side you'll notice that it goes full motion and insures that the rocker piece(s - if you have a 240) inside will spring solidly onto the fixed contacts EVERY SINGLE time. Now screw it back onto the assembly and watch it's movement. Even when the assembly parts are NEW, they won't move the switch fully from side-to-side! That sliding piece of plastic with the hole moves enough generally to cause the rocker to fall one way or another, but NOT full motion. As that piece of plastic wears against the metal it makes that action more and more sloppy. It affects the action one direction MORE than the other. SO, your LEFT SIDE SIGNAL going away is common. Usually it won't just disappear - it'll become "finicky" and works sporadically usually requiring you to move the T/S lever again or wiggle it to get it engaged (and the V-shaped bar to teeter all the way to one side). I may have pictures of the turn signal switch disassembled but I'm sure they can be found on the interweb. I tried a few things to combat that problem as well, but in the end moving to a new toggle switch solved both problems.

It's a bit spotty... You may have to try it after a page refresh. I need to run some upgrades soon and I'll let you know if it's more reliable ...

Hello everyone! I'm from Azerbaijan and I specialize in making clear tail light lenses for the 1979–1981 Datsun 280ZX. I produce them in clear, smoked, and red versions. I’d love to hear your thoughts and feedback on which styles you prefer, or if you have any other suggestions or ideas. Thanks and greetings to all Z enthusiasts!

How about making lens for other Datsuns?

A true beast, so very well thought out. Awesome work! Safari Gold rules!!!

Daniel Parsignault is Datsuniverse and he's been an eBay player for a long time. I have sold him things and have bought a few things. I liken him California Datsun for "rebuilt parts" That is just my opinion of course.

Sounds like he's from the Al Allen school of parts restoration.

Per the recommendations from @Zed Head , here are two excellent upgrades you can make to improve your lighting situation: Headlight relay kit: https://www.thezstore.com/product/3861/headlight-relay-upgrade-harness-70-73-240z Parking light relay kit: https://www.thezstore.com/product/5031/parking-light-upgrade-harness-70-73-240z Take note of the fitment limitation regarding the Parking Light kit for the '73 240Z. Another improvement you can make is to switch out all of your small exterior bulbs to 3W LEDs. This would be front parking and turn signal, sidemarkers, rear tail light and brake, license. If you do so, rememebr to use LEDs that are the same color as the lens cover. If making this change for the turn signals, you will also need to swtich the OE flasher cans for the turn signals and hazard switch to aftermarket electro/mechanical units, a easy plug-and-play change. Your turn signal issues are possibly caused by the heat from high resistance in your wiring circuits: corroded bulb sockets, fouled terminals in the wiring, damage at the fuse block (check the underside), damaged wiring. Hope some of this helps.

Pace yourself guys!

There's also a keyway cut into the body. It was exposed once you took out the retaining bolt and the piece of metal that holds it in place. If you have a non-ZX transmission it sucks that it's on the top but you said you could turn it. It is a place that you could try prying... Honestly, I've never seen one stuck that bad - and we've seen a lot of transmissions over the years - even series one monkey shifters.

You are correct… That pan is thick aluminum and the baffles inside are just amazing. Not sure I will make it to the track. It’s a stage 4 build from Datsun Spirit. Eiji did an amazing job.

Almost every (almost... every, actually) oil pan we took off an L-series motor had over torqued bolts that dimpled the top flange of the pan. That of course ruins the sealing surface and the pan is thin soft metal so it's easy to dimple. It's also easy to flatten the dimples and it should be done every time the pan is removed and dimpling is present at the bolt holes. I've had the best luck doing this (making the sealing surface flat and level) and then using the "Frenchy" Dehoux "pinch permatex gasket maker on the gasket" method: a pea of permatex on your gloved index finger, pinch it with your thumb, pinch the permatex onto the gasket. Repeat until applied to entire gasket. That gives the gasket a very thin coat of gasket maker on each side as you go around the entire gasket. Immediately install the pan with gasket and TORQUE THE PAN BOLTS PROPERLY. (I run the bolts in until barely snug then follow up with the correct torque.) Wait the appropriate amount of time indicated for your gasket maker and then add oil. My L28ET has the two flange pieces for the back of the oil pan but they don't necessarily prevent over torquing damage to the pan. That's why there are so many bolts - VERY little torque needs to be applied. When done properly - with a flat upper surface - just the gasket is necessary. I use a very thin coat of gasket maker as a precaution. (well, OCD...) I'm probably the guy that really needs that aluminum, finned oil pan - Arizona, turbo, Arizona, lives in the same town... Couldn't dimple that thing.

Looks like a PO adjusted the sprocket already to position 2 or 3. If you put the timing mark on zero (TDC) (like you're supposed to) the notch will be after the groove. Like "after adjustment" in the FSM. It wouldn't be from chain stretch on position 1 because that would delay the camshaft mark (before adjustment). Make sure also that the tight side of the chain is tight. The left/driver's side. Another possibility is that your damper is starting to fail and the timng mark has moved. And, that looks like 16 degrees, not 12. If it was mine I'd remove the #1 plug and try to confirm that the piston is at TDC. Then see where the marks are, and see if you are on position 1, 2, or 3. You might be able to see the tensioner also to see if it is pushed out. p.s. it's a chain. Good luck.

You will probably bee surprised how it pops out. I’ve removed quite a few. There’s also a seal inside the cog shaft that prevents oil going into the cable. The ring and seal are still available.

Your prying on the captive nut not the cable.

You've pretty much answered your own question there. And when it comes down to it, we'd have to judge it as a success in those very marketing terms let alone anything else. The press loved it. The project caught the imagination and support of influential figures in the North American Z 'scene' - including the kind who insisted it was a first for a major manufacturer (it wasn't) and "unique" in the auto manufacturing world (it wasn't). Those same figures still vaunt it today. We've certainly discussed the topic here on classiczcars.com many times over the years and our fellow member @26th-Z wrote what I believe is the definitive essay on the VZ cars. It was - when all is all said and done - a big deal in the story of the Z car's mid-life crisis. But as is often the case, the hype and commentary from offstage created unrealistic expectations. The misleading term 'Factory Restoration' was thrown around a lot and many swallowed it whole, including members of the specialist press. The VZ cars often get judged as though they were intended to be 100% factory correct concours restorations when that was clearly never the case. You can see the same thing happening in the current BaT auction. LOL. Another bunch of answers to your "why are the Vintage Z valued so highly?" question in there. It's the kind of people appearing in that video - and mentioned in it - who are part of the hype. High profile figures in the old Z car world, but often too the Typhoid Mary-like spreaders of bad information. Whilst looking in the engine bay of a VZ car we get the words 'Nickel' and 'Cad' plating thrown around (its mostly Zinc...) and a false story about the commissioning of re-pop braided hoses (Nishi san of Revive Jalopy in Japan was responsible for this and for many other previously unobtainable parts too). We even see a modern fuel filter pointed at as though it is some kind of ancient relic. Some typical 'Mr K Lore' thrown in for good measure when discussing early cars/chassis numbers. Larry Chen asks "why is it that the US got the early cars and how come Japan didn't get the early numbers...?" and Jaffe's answer talks about the '240Z'. Japan did get early cars (they got them earlier than the US too...) but the problem here is the congenital misconception that the 'US 240Z' is something over and above the whole S30-series Z family as conceived, planned, designed, styled, engineered and produced before the end of 1969. To the point that anything else is some kind of afterthought. We get Katayama's "PUSH" related as a one-man quest to get 'his' project made rather than the more realistic scenario of him lobbying for influence on something that was already happening. Apparently Mr Carl Beck ('Z car encyclopaedia') "can tell you how many went to England, Australia and its all very limited...", but there's no mention of Japan in their 'Z car' story. You can look at pretty much any volume - and non-volume - selling sports car of the 60s and 70s period and see the same story; volume sales in the USA. But I've yet to see any Triumph, Austin-Healey, MG or Jaguar being vaunted as 'Made Expressly For The USA'. VW shipped just shy of 400,000 Type 1 Beetles into the USA in 1968 alone, so 'Made For The USA'? Mainland USA was the biggest single potential market for just about any product of the period concerned, but I would like to credit at least some US consumers as being sophisticated enough to see through all the "we made this for YOU" type sales slogans. So, why are the Vintage Z cars valued so highly? It's in large part due to the influence of the kind of people who had eight of them, and sold six of them to somebody who now has eight. Larry Chen will make a video about them! People listen, and look up to, movers and shakers like that. Our old BaT friend Larry Stepp (he's a BIG fan of the classiczcars forum) made a prediction the last time this current BaT auction VZ car was up for sale. He said it would be worth 250k USD in a few years. There's the hype. It's not so much to do with the physical details of the object (which is not too shabby, to say the least), it's the perceived kudos and status within a fairly small cohort of people who are looked up to as sooth-sayers and mystics. Buy "one of the 37" and - hey! - maybe you'll even get the pleasure of putting the hose clamps on 'the right way round'...

Another way is to go through the tachometer opening if your hands are small enough.

I found that the two ends were different sizes... The tank end is very close to 3/8, but the fuel pump inlet is larger than that. Maybe even 5/8 or so? I bought some 7/16 fuel line and some 3/8 and I made a couple adapters to change sizes, but in the end, I changed my mind and didn't do it that way. Just as was suggested earlier, I found some 3/8 hose that was large enough to stretch over the fuel pump inlet even though it's not the "right" size. Interestingly though, when I started messing with mine, my PO had done the same thing, but HIS 3/8 tubing was obviously overtaxed by the process and had started to lose integrity because it was stretched beyond it's limits. Point is... Not all 3/8 fuel tubing is the same and you may have to shop around a little to find a manufacturer that works on both ends of this application.

Some noise.