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I am not sure this is a good repair. I'm not worried about crumple zones in a Z car. Let's face it the driver is the crumple zone! John at Bad Dog rails makes a replacement piece for this exact area and is very insistent that they not be welded in continuously. Evidently that extra rigidity in the floor causes problems or cracking in other areas of the car. I believe it was in Atlanta he and I were talking to Matsuo San (?) about the lead joints at the A pillars and quarter panels and he expressed that it was so the car could "breathe" ie flex. So those areas are very important to the over all structure of the car. Overly reinforcing one area forces the flexing to a different area with unpredictable consequences. Caveat Emptor...

I'd just say that the first flare was practice.

Thanks for the mention Motorman. Your restoration on my Z has really cramped my style! It is too pretty to take on the Z Club fun runs through the back roads. So for now it is a show car, but after ZCON next year (in Ontario, California) it will be time to put on the original slotted "mag" wheels, maybe the louvers, the arm rest, and start driving it everywhere again. --Jayhawk My (motorman restoration) blue Z at the 50th anniversary of the founding of the Z Owners of Northern California (ZONC) last June. (Blackhawk auto museum) Note the relative number of folks checking out my 240Z vs the new Nissan 2023 Z😁.

My entire head, face and upper body were subjected to a huge flood of ATF that came out of at least two plug holes on an engine that had been literally FILLED with ATF as I attempted to crank it over. It was as if the engine had been filled to overflowing with ATF with 2-3 gallons worth to preserve it I suppose. The engine did eventually start, and I discovered that of course the exhaust was also filled with ATF and the initial start up caused a huge soggy mess of mouse nest and ATF to be ejected out the exhaust and directly onto the side of my Ford F150 that was parked across the open garage door. That Z smokes for weeks afterwards as the ATF eventually burned off. I have a picture somewhere

I had to laugh, probably because I was expecting the result from the title of the thread. I think we have all had the opportunity to say, "Well that was stupid!" while we were working on our cars. You just have video evidence.

For me, it's usually realizing I didn't put the insulator on the wire before crimping the connector.

Mine needs choke like I need coffee.

When you said you are getting it back on the road, does that mean you've never personally had it on the road? If you have driven it before, did you ever need the choke? Are you planning any engine modifications that could make starting more difficult? I have to use my choke for starting my 2.8L with SU's even in summer.

Looks like it finished at $165k @siteunseenyou missed low

All, Your comments have been very enlightening. Perhaps it is possible to create a sub group of members who would be interested in reviewing other member's cars (via photos) to provide feedback. My personal goal is to have a mechanism in place to evaluate a 240Z, or a portion of a 240Z (engine, suspension, interior, etc.) before the car is subjected to 'uninformed" comments/criticisms. There appears to be several 240Z previously sold that proport to be "restored", "refurbished" or "renewed" that lack some readily available parts. Had the sellers had their 240Zs reviewed by knowledgeable 240Z enthusiasts it is quite possible that their vehicle values would have been greater than they realized via a sale. By extension, the rest of the community would benefit by increased values and offer greater reward for our 240Z ownership. What are your thoughts on creating such a sub group of members? Keith

"ZCCA judges can tell it at one glance." Kats, you give them too much credit. Most ZCCA judges are Z owners just like you and me and are occasionally incorrect in their assessment. I am sure a number of the ZCON participants here can point out quite a number of ZCCA judge errors. Unfortunately, you usually don't find out until 4 months later when you get your official judging sheet.

I still think we are applying a slightly unfair level of scrutiny to it, and you yourself imply it was 'done wrong'. There's a big yawning gap between the new owner's comments on BaT and our nitpicking here. Where's the pragmatism? Winning bidder said: "I am convinced there isn’t another one in the world in this condition! I’ve waited a long time for the right one and I know I’m getting the best one!". I think BaT is something of an echo chamber in cases like this. This is why I still feel a patinated and lived-in unrestored car pleases me more than the average 'restored' car, in the same way that a lived-in human face - without surgery, 'fillers' and veneers - makes me feel. Done right? Only the original cars were "done right". Anything else is just simulation.

Me clearing a flooded cylinder...

The Jay Leno thing was exactly what came to mind, a little older than me (not much) and did something stupid as well. Life is really just a crap shoot, sooner or later you get bit, just have to hope it's not too terrible). I was kinda glad the camera was rolling so maybe someone else may see and learn to avoid my goof up.

I have achieved good result using JB Weld Plastic Bonder and reinforcing the back of the panels with sections of window screen to strengthen the area and provide a good base to fill any voids.

Even someone as old as Jay Leno.

I don't remember any yellow paint marks on my Nov. 70 build 240. The key word is remember.

Thanks all, I’ll just leave them in place and tidy them up as best as possible[emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gas lines, always good to make a curl in them.. say it's for taking up vibrations! 😉

THIS part is exactly the part that makes the jackpoints strong! Also when you put the car on a 2 post lift! Lots of people do this wrong because they don't trust that part you are refering to! The middle part in this beam makes it very strong, so strong you can lift your car with a jack without a problem.

I’m in the SF bay, I can’t run it without a choke in the morning/night…. Diff climate tho, it gets into mid 40s. It’s simple/maintenance free enough to keep around…. I don’t like sitting in front of the car holding the throttle open to idle it. I usually turn it on and clean the windows….

Not standard equipment, but period correct in terms of being available from aftermarket accessory companies like Amco.

My lesson learned is NEVER get near an open spark plug hole. Never know what may come out to bite, oh and always have GOOD eye protection, don't rely on reg glasses. I knew gas was going to come out, just did not anticipate the ferocity of the event as I was spinning the crank quite slowly.

If your tire spaces are currently even, I don't see how it couldn't help but change is you remove 1/2" from the height of the rear strut

I guess the question is why delete the choke at all?

I have no clue. I bought some engine parts from california datsun, had a little trouble, but nothing too bad. Feel lucky now.

Those early door dovetail strikers are made of cheap metal and they just disintegrate. And they are really hard to find! The stainless repros perform much better.

The BAT 240Z went for $165k plus fees. Who knows what one done right would go for, somewhere between this and the $310k Green one? Great to see a good 240Z holding their value.

Thanks for the response. That definitely makes sense. I'll probably just order prefabbed frame rails then.

Yes, but it may be difficult to start when the engine is cold and the mixture will be lean until it's warmed up.

Perhaps it is not so surprising that the heater inlet duct 'chimney' doesn't have 432-R style captive nuts? After all, this is an LHD car and there were no LHD versions of the 432-R's E72 'Cowl Top Inner' to use. Additionally, a Works rally car would most definitely need a fully operating heating and ventilation system (and more!). All the roadgoing 432-Rs I've seen had the fresh air ducts, flaps and cables. There's not much weight in them and they would certainly be a welcome presence on a road car driven in Summer. I don't know if it will have been done on xs10shl's car, but other (later) Works rally 240Zs had 'overclocked' fan motors with extra windings, allowing them to push more air. They also enlarged the ducts under the windscreen and put wire mesh in them to stop them swallowing up anything important... There's some evidence of Namba san's mentioned ventilation system mods on cars later than the '71 Safari winner. '7924' is the '73 Safari winning car of Shekhar Mehta. LHD, but it was originally built in order to take part in the 1972 RAC Rally (driven by Rauno Aaltonen) and it shows the much-modified heater box and blower motor mounting position they used. This Works rally-specific mod hides its light under a bushel, and its full splendour would only be revealed if the dash was removed...

Wintergreen is an oil made from mint. Have you never had a wintergreen mint? Used to get Canada Mints years ago, not so common these days. Round pink lozenges, delicious!

Thank you Steve for that explanation. Appreciate your feedback and I will be checking this out today and reporting back. It is a 240Z and I'm running a Pertronix pointless ignition.

Yes, they are separate wires. I'll assume you have a 240Z. In the start position, the green/white wire and black/yellow wire get voltage. The black/yellow goes to the solenoid. The green/white goes to the tachometer and comes out black/white. The black/white wire goes to the coil positive. You don't say what ignition you are using. If it's points, make sure they are opening and closing. Here is the procedure to verify it's an issue with the switch. Put the key in ON. Verify you have voltage at the ignition fuse. You can do that by seeing if your turn signals are working. Measure voltage to ground at coil positive. If you have voltage to ground at coil positive, it is likely there is an issue with the start circuit around the switch. Inspect the switch and wiring the the steering column. If you have turn signals but not voltage at the coil, you need to start inspecting connections. It could be at tachometer or the connections between the dash harness and engine harness.

Wintergreen is an essential oil. What it is essential for, I don't have a clue. I think it's used in homeopathic medicine. Strong smell. Maybe it will keep exhaust smell at bay!

Looks good, love the " Vredestein " tyres.. Dutch brand The choke knob is not the correct one, Dash looks re-sprayed or something, middle console to, and door panels are not original to, partly refurbished. But it is done nicely. For the rest.. really nicely done early 240Z

I always assumed the inner rocker reinforcement was due to the rockers being a jack point? Anyone?

Hi Dan, I didn’t know that ! Need five screws on the scuff plate, I need to have them correctly on my cars. Hi SpeedRoo, I have never expected that newer NISSAN logo on the windshield, it means we were able to buy the windshield from a local Nissan dealership quite recently? The door glass would be supplied from another car , ZCCA judges can tell it at one glance. Kats

A couple of things I noticed, not to be critical but in the interest of correctness on this early car, can be seen in picture #113. The lower door rubber seal appears to be installed with the seal flange outboard instead of inboard of the door bottom. Also, the door dovetail striker below the latch is the later, universal dovetail with the beefier mounting hole opening. The earlier dovetails had thinner mounting hole openings which tended to crack under use. The earlier dovetails were also side specific, ie., left and right. In picture #115, the inner rocker scuff plates should be mounted with 5 Phillips screws, not the three used on later series cars. A drill will remedy this. And, the door weatherstripping appears to be a replacement tubular seal as opposed to a more accurate reproductions available in the market. this is indeed a beautifully restored car touched by Pierre, the master of Z reincarnations.

Thank you so much xs10shl ! I imagined how many hours were taken to see only the duct opening, thank you. This fact makes me think of that Works rally car , it needs ventilation system (I mean motorized), so they need to be opened like other public cars. Also I remember Mr. Namba ( general manager of works team) said in the magazine “ for preparation of 1971 Safari , we were making a stronger ventilation system for dry dusty conditions. Works cars were going to be equipped with filtration system - inlet air from cabin to engine. In the end, we didn’t need to do it “. How were they going to do it?? Is there any trace which we can see it today ? I am curious about it. On the other hand Z432-R, they omitted the heater box/blower motor to stay light in weight. I asked about it Ando-san who restored at least 5 road going Z432-Rs but he has never seen an original parts that attached to the brackets. Some Z432-Rs have just added a blower motor and a heater box , some Z432-R just don’t have anything around the opening. Ando-san usually makes a rectangular plate for the duct opening because customers always complain about too much cold in winter driving. It is fun to imagine, if a works Z432-R raced in winter, would mechanics have added a delete panel to prevent excessive cold air coming into cockpit ? How about two inlets each side of foot well ? Does a Z432-R have a duct and flap operated by single cable like public cars ? Sorry this is not related, not proper to ask here.I will continue to search for these. About the mounting bracket for the igniter, thank you so much for checking it. So, we see only S20 cars have them on the cowl top panel. LHD cars have only one cowl top panel(no brackets for igniter and inlet opening) for all variants including works rally car, RHD cars have three types i.e. L- series cars ( no brackets for igniter and inlet opening) , S20 Z432 ( brackets only for igniter), S20 Z432-R (brackets for igniter and inlet opening). As reading your observations, I believe the wiring harnesses are original to your car. Just great ! Thanks always, I really love this topic here. Kats PS I think this picture is your car.

If you are referring to the middle piece of the rocker panel sandwich. It's a reinforcement. Probably because that part of the rocker would bulge and shear without it. Always remember automotive manufacturers don't add pieces for no reason! They try to make everything as cheap as possible