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87mj last won the day on December 4 2016

87mj had the most liked content!

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About 87mj

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    Northern Indiana

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  1. Does anyone know how to tell the difference between a Nissan replacement S30 front fender verses an aftermarket front fender? With the exception of the tabco replacement rockers & wheel arches, etc, front aftermarket fenders always seemed to be black at least from the pictures. And the Nissans were grey. Other than that, I wouldn't know how to tell the difference. I realize it has been awhile since they made them. Any way to tell? Thanks
  2. I have a 6/70 5300 vin that is a '71. :)
  3. I just bought one of those. The description said the left lever was the hood release and the right lever was for the gas tank filler door. No joke.
  4. A couple of years ago, I bought a '71 off craigslist. I already owned a couple of '71 cars so I thought I knew what I was going to see. Long story short, when I arrived and started looking the car over, I popped the hood and saw the 2400 valve cover. Then I looked at the vin on the door jam. Its vin was hls30-05305 with a manufacture date of 6/70. I am curious why such an early car is a '71 and not a '70? A friend of mine said back then, the cars were titled based the year they left the dealership. Not when they were manufactured. Also, since the price went up each year, there was a compelling financial reason to title the car later in the year. Does anyone agree or disagree? Thanks
  5. Theoretically, I might be installing emblems on a freshly painted car soon. I was curious what produced the best results when installing the emblems. Do you insert the barrel clips in the holes and press the emblem into them or do you insert the barrel clips over the posts and press everything into the holes? Thanks
  6. Someone with more knowledge than be might be able to chime in with an exact date but there was a period between the series 1 & series 2 cars that had vertical glass, the early seats, and the older style center console but still had the c pillar vents like yours. Mine was built in 6/71 and is one of those cars. It had the c pillar vents like yours does, the vertical defrosters in the rear glass, the older seats you mentioned, tool bins in the rear deck and the older style console & radio with the large antenna switch. If you really would like to know, I good clue is the location of the transmission tunnel opening for the shift lever. The later series 2 cars moved the shift lever forward an inch or two which meant the older style console doesn't fit. The nasty flat top carbs didn't come along until '73 & the rims are aftermarket.
  7. 87mj


    For what it is worth, I have an old series 1 I am restoring. My body mechanic blasted the inside, underneath and engine bay. Those things turned out fine. He didn't want to blast the body for fear of damaging it. He was very incompetent so I am glad he chose not to blast the body and sanded it instead.
  8. After you have exhausted (?) all other possibilities, remove the left rear quarter interior plastic panel and the interior rear bezel that covers the rear tail lights. Park it in a garage and with the lights off, and from underneath the car and behind the rear wheel, shine a mag light flashlight up and look for light inside the cabin. There is a flat piece of sheet metal there which extends from the wheel well, around the antenna and to the rear valance. I found a small gap there. There are also numerous rubber plugs around hoses in the back that can deteriorate after 50 years.
  9. Wow. Great observation. I guess they don't call you Captain Obvious for nothing. :)
  10. If you are new to Z cars, the one piece of advice I would give is treat it only as a fair weather car. The sheet metal was not very good. I don't drive mine unless the sun is out. I live in the Midwest. Mine sits in a heated garage in the winter and I only drive it on dry summer days. No rain. Also, try to put a light colored towel over your dash when it sits outside. Especially in your area of the country. :)
  11. 87mj

    Carb Balance

    Thanks Siteunseen. That post is very helpful. In my case, my idle adjustment screws are completely backed off so the linkage does not touch them. The front carb still draws much more air than the rear eve though the idle is backed off. Valves are adjusted and plugs are good.
  12. 87mj

    Carb Balance

    Thanks for the help everyone. I will open the float bowls and take a look. No I assumed not mixing the parts between the carbs was important. I made sure I did not mix & match anything between the carbs but as I write this, I cant say someone else didn't a few years ago. Maybe I will try switching the pistons and see what happens (keeping track of which parts belong to which carb). I just noticed the insulators are mounted upside down. There is a pair of holes at the bottom of them that are now at the top. Cooling perhaps? Maybe that is allowing airflow where they shouldnt?
  13. I am trying to balance the carbs on my '71. I warmed up the engine. Then I set the jets so they were flush to the bottom of the carbs and turned them both so they were flat with the bottom of the carbs. I backed off the idle on each carb so the adjustment knob was not touching the linkage. I also loosened the linkage so it wouldn't interfere with each carb and they could respond independently. The car has about 62k miles on it and it runs and drives nice. When I have the car running and look in the throat of the carbs, the front piston is much higher than the rear carb. Maybe by 1/2 inch. When I install a syncrometer to the front carb, the air draw is off the chart. There is no way I can turn the idle back because it is as far as it will go now. I can get the rear carb to adjust to anything I want. The piston is not stuck. When I shut the engine off, both drop down to where they should be. Any ideas from anyone would be appreciated.
  14. This probably wont be helpful at all but I had soft pedal. I bled the brakes numerous times and nothing helped. Finally I installed bleeder valves on the brakes and bled them again. That worked.
  15. I'm curious how accurate the bends in the steel tubes were. I saw in another post where someone was unable to use the rubber insulators in the brake line clamps. Did you still need to do some heavy duty bending to get them to fit correctly?
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