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87mj last won the day on December 4 2016

87mj had the most liked content!


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  1. I have a 6/70 that I am restoring. The sway bar brackets that bolt to the bottom of the frame rails and hold the sway bar bushings seem to be the exact shape as my 5/71 in every way. Except on my 6/70 they were never painted. They appear as if they were yellow zinc. My car has been sitting for a very long time so I dont think the suspension components have been modified. I like the look of properly zinc'd parts but I am not a big fan when it is over done. Has anyone ever seen these brackets zinc from the factory or have you only seen black?
  2. Since I am digging into one of these, I thought I would add to it. The hood is different. I have a 6/70 I am rebuilding and the underneath side of the hood at both corners next to the cowl doesn't have as much stamped reinforcement as the later cars. Even compared to my 5/71.
  3. I am in the process of restoring a '70. I have gutted it and am in the process of putting it back together. My next step is to install a new dash. I have moved the dash wiring harness to the new dash along with all the gauges and I am about to plug everything back into the harness. The engine is still out of the car. I am about to plug a battery into the harness so I am very intimidated at the thought of burning something up. My ground is connected correctly. Assuming I am careful and connect the electrical components back together such as the lights, horns, etc. so that nothing is touching metal that shouldn't, I see there are 3 wires coming off the positive battery terminal. One is a thick black wire which goes to the starter. I assume that powers the starter motor. Since there is no starter right now, I assume I can put that one aside. That means there is a smaller gauge black wire going to the solenoid and another going to the fusible link. If I wanted to apply power to the harness to test the lights, horns, gauges and so on, is it safe to say I only need to apply power to the wire with the fusible link? I also thought I would pull all the fuses from the fuse box except the circuit I am testing. That should eliminate any chance of burning everything up. Agree? Any suggestions?
  4. I ended up buying an inexpensive Harbor Freight lift. I was able to get the engine out but the hydraulics in the lift were not strong enough to hold the load up for any period of time. When I put it back in, I am going to use my tractor and loader in the driveway along with two sons to guide it in. I read a previous post where using the two factory lift points was a bad idea. Someone said they are not strong enough and would break. From the pics, it looks like everyone is using those. Has anyone had any problems? BTW, the rope through the transmission tunnel is an excellent idea.
  5. Just curious. Has anyone successfully painted the engine bay without removing the engine, brake lines, harness, etc?
  6. I wanted to comment on this post. I never saw a wheel in person that is the same color as those photos. In fact, I would go so far as to say the years have not changed the color of the wheel at all. The finish may have wore off in areas and caused discoloration but the color hasn't changed. Like others have already mentioned, the knob and the wheel were two totally different colors.
  7. I confess I dont know the visual difference between a 350z and a 370 et al. but I am a little surprised how few S30 cars appear to be there. From the videos, it looked like there were far more later cars and very few S30.
  8. eek. That is tacky. And unfortunately, period correct. If you are taking votes, its got to go. What were they thinking? Nice car though.
  9. Those body side moldings were very common back in the day. Z seems to be very sensitive to different add ons based on the color of the car. Personally, I don't like the look of them on most cars. I have a 905 red car that I thought really needed them. So I put them on it. But they were adhesive type. No rivets. My wife and I both like the look but my younger sons don't. I have a 918 orange car that I wouldn't dream of putting them on. If it were me and I was going to send the car in for repaint, I would get those holes filled and install adhesive based moldings. Then the holes in the sheet metal are taken car of and if you ever change your mind and decide to remove them, it wont make you sick.
  10. I experienced the same problem when I painted my car 918. It was painted in several stages. Underside of the hood and misc small pieces. Then underneath, interior, engine bay. When I first saw it, it seemed way too brown. It actually had a purple cast to it. The body guy bought it from Napa but I don't remember the actual manufacturer off hand. The final paint job looked terrible. Quality, color, everything. So I had it redone with PPG. Then it looked "correct" to me.
  11. The thing I don't like about BAT is there are a few that say positives about the car. It seems to increase the bidding even though the comments are highly subjective. If you don't receive their comments, you don't get good bids. Strange.
  12. That is more like a history than a reputation. I am constantly amazed at how well 240zguild guy sells cars. During auctions, he is always dropping comments about some past transaction that implies expertise. If you look at past auctions that aren't even his, he always sells himself and his shop in his comments seemingly just to get his name out there. "When we do our cars...". He is very subtle about it. He blessed this one at the end of the auction to make the buyer feel that he got a good price. Its a pretty good business model if you know how to sell used cars. Give yourself a name that implies expertise and double the price of what you sell.
  13. I was a little surprised it went for $77k. If you look close, it appears as if the wheel arches are not straight. As if they are finished with bondo. The rocker seams are missing along with the rear valance seams. On the closeup shots, the paint job looked a little rough too. To top it off, the description says the seller hasn't driven the car since it has been restored. Does that mean it doesn't run or it has some electrical issues that haven't been worked out yet? It seems like a project at 60% complete.
  14. Regarding your doors, I aligned mine with the seals and latches off the car. The window frames were on the door. That gave me a good starting point. It allowed me to make the gaps as accurate as I could. Then focus on the latch afterward. BUT, I wish I would have taken a black sharpie pen and outlined the door latches. Then replaced the factory ones with cheap aftermarket Taiwan parts. Then tell the body shop to paint over those cheap aftermarket ones. Also, when removing the doors from the car, unbolt the doors from the hinges. Leave the door hinges in their factory locations. Then when I got the car back from the body shop, install the original factory door latches (the factory positions should now be easy to see). And the hinges would still be at their factory location. I wish. But too late now.
  15. I always thought the underneath side of the car wasn't finished at all. Jim's pics seem to support that. In other words, they were barely painted and painted mostly by overspray.
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