Jeff Berk

I've got a zip tie there as well. A Z specialist in my area put it on when he did some work on my car and I meant to ask him why, now I know.

Thank Jim, That should fix the problem. Jeff

I recently have an issue crop up with the car not returning to idle after I let up on the gas unless I tap the gas pedal a few times. I traced it to the front carburetor. The return spring attached to the heat shield is present but maybe I have it's attached to the wrong hole on the carburetor linkage or maybe something is missing. I've attached two photos. the close up one shows where there appears to be a mounting hole on the linkage possibly for a spring (note black arrow). If I reset this lever position manually, the front carburetor returns to idle.

It looks like there are two different filters sizes depending on the carburetor. You might try Z Car Depot. Early 1973 (2.36" Tall Housing) K&N E-2910 Air Filter Nissan OEM 16546E3210 Late 1973 (2.00" Shorter Housing) K&N E-2900 Air Filter Nissan OEM 16546-N3310

You might be right. I can mail it to you if you want to give it a try. I wasn't going to charge you for it other than shipping.

I thought I found it but I couldn't get it to fit on a counter shaft I had in my bin so I have my doubts.

Are you still looking for this? I just noticed this request and I might have one in a bin.

Nevermind

I just finished installing the molding after 4 attempts. It looks like all 4 corners fit properly. I just need to find out where I put the two corner and junction trim pieces. Once again, the molding came from Z Car Depot.

Got it... Thanks. I had the glass out while we were painting the car and I'm at the point where I need to put it back together.

Thank you. From the photos it looks like the molded bend is at the bottom and the stretched bend is at the top. But I could be wrong.

I might be late to the show but If its available, I could use the two seals 80935-E4101 Window crank and handle seating (79-038) I can send you a shipping label if you can give me the size and weight of the package or if it fits inside a post office padded envelope. Jeff

I went to install the stainless steel trim around the window first but I need some reminding. The rubber seal has two distinct molded corners. Do the corners go at the top or bottom of the hatch?

I was looking into doing this as well but does bundling plug wires result in cross-talk between wires.

I just received my gasket for my 260z from Z-Car Depot today. Its marked as being from General Parts in Thailand. I'm maybe a week away from installing it and will post how well it fits.

Is there any reason why the door card could be either thicker or warped? I had to extend my splined regulator shaft because I replaced the vinyl with leather making it slightly thicker.

Has any of you seen examples of an entire Z body from China being transplanted onto a rusted out Z?

I watched this video and was going to post it here and Zed Head beat me to it. The catalog ZH posted only shows a small number of the parts and unfortunately don't list as fitting the 260z's. I like the fact that the narrator apparently owns a 240z so he focused in on them being made.

Maybe you can wait out the zstore. https://www.thezstore.com/product/195/aluminum-rear-brake-drum-70-78-240z-260z-280z

To answer your question about mixing parts between 4 and 5-speed transmissions, the parts with the same part numbers are interchangeable. That said, mixing used parts from different transmissions is less than ideal. Parts will wear in differently and can result in more backlash and noise. I rebuilt a 5 using some parts from a 4 and it worked fine but I couldn't tolerate the noise in all but 4th gear. I ended up having a local mechanic who specializes in old Zs rebuild one of my 5-speed transmissions. What part of the country are you located in?

DrFeelGood, Love that video! Jeff

I might be using the wrong terminology here so bear with me here. I didn't see the right seat belt reinforcement suggested by Patcon, on my Z. Is this part to be used if part 5 in the CarPartsManual.com is damaged? If so, I think that anchor point for the seat belt looks fine so unless I'm missing something, I'm assuming I don't need it. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I was going to order the inner dogleg but I'm confused as to what purpose it serves. It will be a bit of a pain to remove because it has a wire threaded through the large hole and it appears to be spot welded in several locations. Does it add support? KFvintage shows a part (pictured) that I'm assuming was mostly destroyed by rust: https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/datsun-240z-rear-rigth-side-outer-rocker-repair-section/ Does this part go inside the rocker panel? A few responses up where I provided an image from a Nov. 2018 posting, there's what looks like this part but it has a hole in it that I'm assuming aligns with the seat belt bolt. I'm assuming that I need this part to reinforce the outer rocker panel.

I found this photo in a Nov. 2018 post. Other than the outer dog leg portion that I plan on buying, where can I get the other parts shown in the photo or do I need to fabricate them?

By middle reinforcing plate do you mean part 5 on this diagram I think its find. I've cleared away some of the heavily corroded metal and took another photo for a better look at the damage. There is a recent patch and blind rivets on the back and side wall I did 3 years ago to fix a hole that developed. I sprayed some rust sealing paint at that time. The sheet metal directly in front of part 5 is gone below the large nut but I'm not sure of its function and I cannot locate it on the CarPartsManual.com site.

I'm preparing to repaint my '74 260z had have a few rust issues to attend to. A few months back I went to Pete's Custom Coachbuilding near Chagrin Falls, OH for their Octoberfest. They specialize in full restoration of Porsches. I asked them why they always grind off all the old paint when they restore a car and was told "you never know what you'll find under the paint." Well here's proof. I have what I thought was a complete repair record for my car that had no mention of rust repair or painting except for back in 1982. The bottom of the right dog leg came loose from the pinch weld and when I moved the bottom around, all this rust poured out. I started grinding off the old paint and found body filler. Then I found the patch. I cut out the old patch and found a rusted cavity. I'm picking up a new dog leg from a local supplier but I could use some input on if I need to address the rusted mess behind the new patch other than to cut out and paint with rust inhibitor. (note the drilled holes are me trying to drill out spot welds) Is there anything that needs reconstruction?