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Jeff Berk

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Everything posted by Jeff Berk

  1. Last year I removed my banjo bolts and installed some braided hose junk. Now you made me feel bad... : (
  2. I like the clean engine compartment. Thanks for the picture. It looks like you used the intake manifold bolts to mount the extrusion. I'll likely do the same but come up with a thermal break somehow.
  3. The fuel will enter the fuel rail at the front and has two ports for the pair of SUs. Excess fuel flows out the rear of the fuel rail to a low pressure regulator mounted on the firewall. Fuel then flows to the return line which hopefully has no leaks in it. As for insolation, I'll likely wrap it with something.
  4. I'm installing a fuel rail with a gas tank return on an SU fuel system. A PO removed the original fuel rail and set the fuel system up as a dead head which is causing some vapor lock issues when the car sits between auto cross runs. The issue I'm having now is how to attach the aluminum fuel rail extrusion. There are four 10mm bolt holes on the cylinder head (circled in red), two wire loom screws, and valve cover bolts as possible mounting options. The cylinder head bolt holes would be a good option except that they are so close to the intake manifold flanges that I'm not sure they will be something I could use for mounting. Also, is there any off the shelf fixture for mounting the fuel rail extrusion or at least a design I can copy?
  5. OK, found the right one to unscrew. It was next to the one I unscrewed first.
  6. I just got my 260z back from the shop* just in time for winter storage and have a new issue to address. On the drive home, my temperature gauge showed +250 after a few miles. The engine was not hot so the mechanic suggested I install a new temperature sensor. Unless I pulled the wrong part off my car, something does not match up (see photograph). Just above the old and new sensors is the port it screws into. Do I just need to purchase a new retaining nut (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SCC13/16-7115) and switch out the blade connector to a female bullet on my wire? *Welded and reground failed camshaft, installed extra-thick exhaust manifold gasket due to a warped header mating surface.
  7. I have the same problem with Pinterest and it's gotten to the point where sometimes I add -pinterest to the search to try and filter out Pinterest results.
  8. I think if the clock has reached the point of requiring 21volts to run at all, there is a problem. Those old auto clocks, unlike modern quartz clocks, should be professionally cleaned and oiled (yes oiled) periodically. Oiling is needed at specific friction points and requires clock oil, not 3-in-1. I'd be a little concerned about dumping the whole clock in a cleaning solution. The clock has both a mechanical and an electronic part. In a clock, there are two plates with shafts holding moving parts pivoting or spinning on axils between the plates. Where the axils rest on the plates, there are holes that need to be kept clean and lubricated or the holes become elongated and would need to be repaired with bushings. If you have a grandfather clock sitting around, you'll notice that these holes in the plates actually have oil cups. You might want to try and clean these holes then use clock oil applied using a needle tip. A bit of advice, don't let the battery in the car run low. A low voltage can damage the "points" that trigger the winding mechanism. If all else fails, several people specialize in replacing original clock mechanisms with quartz which do not require maintenance. There is something about the tick-tick-tick which I like to hear (before I start the car and drown out all noise with my header exhaust). I was able to fix my '74 clock by cleaning and LIGHT oiling so repair is possible. This goes in depth and specifically shows where to oil and with what: https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/features/putting-the-ticktock-back-in-your-old-car-clock
  9. Well, I only had 400 miles on that camshaft so the mechanic is not going to charge me for the reinstallation and Bonk is not going to charge him (as far as I know) so I'm going to wait for now on purchasing a substitute. This driving season is shot since it's almost time to put the car away for the winter. Come spring, if I don't have the camshaft back, I'm likely going to find another and absorb the loss.
  10. Steve Bonk is on the Church of L Series facebook page a lot. I have his camshaft in my L28, well I had a set... It failed due to a casting flaw I think. He was going to take care of welding it and having it reground but the shop he uses is backed up and I've been without my Z waiting on the camshaft for going on two months now.
  11. I don't think he's too terribly far away so I can just drive out there and measure its length. Thanks for the input
  12. My 260Z started life with a 4-speed manual. In the early 1980's, a new engine and a used 5-speed was dropped in. The 5-speed began having problems and was beyond rebuilding. I tried to replace it with another 5-speed and it was too beat to be rebuilt. I attempted to get the 5-speed up and running with some components out of a 4-speed but the gear lash made more noise than my exhaust so I went with another 4-speed I purchased for $23. My car is in the shop for the next few months waiting on a camshaft (but that's another story) but in the mean time, this has popped up on facebook marketplace: Also have a (83) 2wd long tail fs5w71b 5 speed trans and a (85) short tail fs5w71c for a 4x4, $100 obo a trans. I e-mailed him and obtained more information. This hasn’t been out of the truck more than 4 months, been inside this whole time. I have a short tail from a 4x4 with 212k, and a long tail with about 70k on it. I used Lucas in the long tail and when hot 5th would give a little buzz as it went in, but first 35 years of its life it never went more than 35mph or even used 5th. It was a maintenance truck till I bought it. The seller told me that there may be a difference in the bell housings between the pickup and Z car; however, I have a couple of bell housings sitting around. Considering how rare 5-speeds are getting, would it be wise to pick this one up at $100? Note, I won't hold it against anyone if this transmission turns out to be another dud. Jeff
  13. I think I paid around $50 or so for my junk-yard wheel and it wasn't even the Faux Wood variety.
  14. I think you're right. I'll need to retrace the Z.
  15. Dutchzcarguy... My intent was to make it narrower, but I liked the feel of it. This wheel is really heavy, I guess because of the epoxy. CO... I've not used the Haas mill yet but its available so its on my bucket list. I was disappointed when I pulled out the original steering hub coin and found it to be chromed plastic. My prototype is attached. If successful, I'll powdercoat it and then buff off the coating on the raised "Datsun Z". I've got Case Western Reserve University within 25 miles that provides community access to all equipment. Cleveland Public Library 30 miles away has limited equipment. Kent State University within 15 miles that plans on giving community access in the next few months. There is a third makerspace around 40 miles away but its too far away. These are all free except for materials and there are at least one more that requires a subscription to use. What I'm getting at, if you check around, your likely to find a community-access makerspace in your area.
  16. I've been working off and on to make a wood steering wheel from a donner. 1) I stripped the old foam, sanded and powder coated the steel hub and spokes. 2) Cut up some walnut that sat around for 25+ years, soaked it in Cactus Juice wood stabilizer under vacuum, then let it soak up the juice for a week before baking it. 3) Resawed the wood and created two hexagons from the pieces, glued them together. 4) Made a router jig to cut circles, then cut a grove in the wood for the steel rim to fit in, then used the jig to cut the outside and inside diameters. 5) Glued up the two circles, sandwiching the steel rim and a 1/8-inch sheet of blood wood (also treated with Cactus Juice. 6) Routered a round over on the inside and outside of the steering wheel. Screwed up once breaking a 1/4-inch router bit and ripping out a bit of wood. 7) Sanded, sanded, and sanded. 😎 Finished with wipe on varnish. Now I'm waiting on someone to train me in using a Haas Mini Mill to make a new center coin for the padded horn button.
  17. When I made mine (no longer own), I had machined a pair of flats and they came in handy. Taking bits of various designs, I had used acme all thread and thrust bearings instead of NC thread and a used throw-out bearing. One last thing, I drilled and tapped both ends of the all thread so if one end became damaged, I could use the other end. This is one of those tools that hopefully you only need once. It would be great if one could just borrow the tool from a tool library.
  18. zKars... What is the length of the loop on either side? About 8" (20 cm for everyone outside of the US)? I need to make one of those. Jeff
  19. SteveJ: I like that belt wrapped around the seatbelt from the transmission hump. My car does not have this (yet).
  20. I'm looking into stabilized wood (see https://blog.woodturnerscatalog.com/2014/02/wood-stabilizing-v-2/ ) I found a piece of 20 year or so old black walnut that I might cut up and stabilize with clear epoxy. I'm taking photographs and will post the procedures in the future unless it is a complete fail. I plan on generally following the instructions posted on an MG forum. https://www.mgexp.com/article/diy-wood-steering-wheel-part-1.329
  21. Your pictures I'm sure has made many of us very happy about the condition of our cars. You might need to visit this site in the future: https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/datsun/
  22. Here's what my transmission looked like after adding the access hole.
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