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Jeff Berk

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Everything posted by Jeff Berk

  1. I have it up on a lift which makes the effort more tolerable. That extra-wide oil pan is a real PIA. I'm trying to get the maker space near me to make a couple of offsets but with C-19, I have to rely on students to fabricate the part. Their waterjet would cut these out in minutes. I might try a 3D printed wrench but I'm not sure a PLA wrench can hold up.wrench offset.pdf
  2. I'm at TDC, dip stick is out as are all but one bolt holding the oil pan. Unless someone can come up with an idea, I'm having a tool made because nothing I have or purchased can get to that one last bolt. The oil pan lip blocks access using a box wrench and the oil pan's budge doesn't leave enough room for a socket wrench. A flex head box wrench won't lock on possibly because of the pan lip. The exhaust is welded so I'd likely have to cut it to remove it but I gained an inch or two by unbolting the manifold. I'm trying to get a shop to make a short offset for a 1/4-inch drive wrench. The
  3. Could the slipping out of gear be related to a damaged shifting insert spring? That was a suggestion a mechanic gave me when I was having problems with 5th gear. On a side question... What is a reasonable price for a 5-speed that is sold as is with minimal opportunity to inspect it? I have someone who is considering buying a junked car and offering me the transmission if I throw in some money for the car. I'm not sure if there is an opportunity to pull the transmission first.
  4. You might try water-soluble UV dye. I've used similar dyes in oils and AC leak tracing. https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/uv-light-and-accessories/autopro-antifreeze-coolant-leak-detector-uv-dye-8-oz/835773_0_0
  5. I purchased a 1 1/2 inch crowsfoot wrench and attached it to my 1/2-inch torque wrench so that it was at right angles. This did not change the length of the torque wrench appreciably so the torque value I dialed in should be somewhat accurate. Maybe a little underestimating the torque if you consider the length from the center of the nut to the handle is slightly longer than the center of the wrench head to the handle. Lets see Pythagorean Theorem, a2+b2=c2, a 2 + b 2 = c 2 , can be used to find the length of any side of a right triangle.
  6. I don't have an engine hoist so this could be interesting. I can picture myself getting one nut on and dropping the second one several times. I'm going to be switching out my transmission as well so I hope that getting that out of the way will give me more room to slide it back.
  7. I'm going to be replacing my oil pan gasket and in reading up on it, I found a set of instructions that said: Knock pan loose with rubber mallet. Then loosen the two 12mm bolts on the oil pickup. So, do I drop the oil pan a few mm's and reach in with a 12mm wrench and loosen two bolts? Is that so I have some wiggle room to get the pan off?
  8. I'm looking for a R&P rebuilding or exchange service. I'm burned out from my transmission rebuild to do it myself. Can anyone offer a suggestion?
  9. PXL_20210426_183301294.mp3I took it out for a slightly longer drive and recorded the sound in 2nd gear with acceleration and then deceleration. I've attached the audio file. I also noticed that it is slipping out of 5th when I let up on the gas so I'm assuming that means it's not being pushed fully into 5th gear. If all else fails, I have a 4-speed of unknown condition I could try. PXL_20210426_183301294.mp3
  10. I only drove it a few minutes due to concern about the whine. I'm think that by dropping the transmission, if it landed on a countershaft end, damage the center countershaft bearing is reasonable. Next time I'll have my son tighten the vice while I'm holding the transmission while holding the aluminum vice jaws. I just ordered a replacement center bearing. I'll attempt to replace it without disturbing the main shaft. I'll drive it a few more times to see if I can get a little more information. Before starting this project, I purchased a transmission adapter for my jack. This really
  11. Zed Head I just found this in my search: It agrees with your thoughts on the root cause of the noise. I have to admit that I dropped the transmission onto a rubber mat when I was trying to fit it into my vice. If it landed on the countershaft, that could of damaged the bearing.
  12. Good point on the countershaft. I didn't know 4th was a direct drive. If it's an issue with one of the three countershaft bearings, is there a way to test them? They were all replaced so they should be fine but I installed and removed parts so often to fix errors, maybe I damaged one. Other than that should I check to see if gears are not properly matching? One issue I had with the countershaft was that I was unable to remove the countershaft drive gear. This required that I remove both the main and countershaft at the same time. After its removal, I tried a gear puller and an ultr
  13. I installed the transmission and give it a try. I'm getting a bit of whine; however when I let the clutch out, even in neutral. For some reason, no whine in 4th gear but it reappears in 5th. I checked the fluid level and it is up to the fill hole. Gears 1-4 are out of a 4-speed transmission. transmission.mp4 I might of put the wrong throw-out bearing (I had 2 different ones sitting out) in since the noise is only present when the clutch is out. Any suggestions? The attached video has the whine.
  14. I use https://smallpdf.com/unlock-pdf
  15. EuroDat, I think you spotted the problem. I took a few measurements and couldn't see how the countershaft would NOT fit so I was wondering about the input shaft. Nissan must of put the kerf in the input shaft where they did just to see what fool they could fool. Thanks all for your help. Jeff
  16. I'm not feeling a gap under the cover. I'm using a paper gasket without sealer. After disassembly again, and bumping the counter shaft in with a dead blow hammer, I got the following measurements of the protrusion of the bearings beyond the casting surface: Before hammering the difference between the protrusion of the main and countershaft bearings was 0.04 inches After hammering the difference between the protrusion of the main and countershaft bearings was 0.13 inches This extra 0.09 inches seemed to have helped although I'm feeling some resistance when I turn the input s
  17. I cannot move it any further in on the counter shaft. That gap you pointed out is a step on the shaft. Maybe I need to force the entire counter shaft in a few tenths of an inch?
  18. I've got up the nerve to install the transmission, that and my wife wants her half of the garage back so I had to move the transmission out of the way. I was just about to start the install when I tried to give the input shaft a spin and it wouldn't budge. I checked and I was in neutral so I started back tracking and pulled the front cover off and it moved freely again. I checked to make sure the spacer was in the counter shaft well and I reseated the main shaft seal so it was properly seated and tried again. As soon as I started to torque the bolts to about 13 ft/lb, the input shaft seized up
  19. I inserted an endoscope into the hole I drilled and realized that the striker was just short of engaging. I switch to another striker and this time it engaged and I was able to go through the gears. I could see the ends of the fork rods in the bell housing moving in and out as I shifted through the gears and the input shaft turned freely. Unfortunately, I need to disassemble the case since I didn't apply RTV to the adaptor plate yet but If it work once, it should work again. I've attached a photo from the endoscope showing the non-engaged striker. I knew that endoscope would come in handy some
  20. Just so I understand, I need to put the transmission in gear (example 1st gear) by pushing the fork rod, then drop the adapter plate into the front case/bell housing while making sure the fork rods haven't moved, then put the transmission tail on with the shifter set to 1st gear?
  21. It's me again. I solved the issue with the wedge pin stuck in the striker, I took zKars' suggestion and drilled a hole in the side of the transmission so I could tap it out. I then taped the hole for 1/2-inch 13 threads and bought a short bolt. I figure with thread sealer and an O-ring, I should be able to seal it well enough. Dropping the transmission into the case has been a problem. I think I have it all together properly (see photos on google drive). I installed the shifter, bell housing, and tried dropping the tail in place. I tried different shifter positions, twisting the tail a li
  22. zKars... I drilled a hole in one of my donner transmissions and was able to get the pin out of that one with a few hammer blows against a drift pin. I did that to get a better look at what I'm up against. I picked up an electrical conduit hanger at Lowes and I'm trying to come up with a tool to push out the pin by reshaping the hanger. Not much luck yet. As I said earlier, it's a very tight space.
  23. I was thinking the same thing. When I regain access to the maker space I'm going to see if I can make one. I like a challenge, owning a vintage Z, that should be obvious.
  24. Yarb... I removed the nut and tried to tap the screw out but it's kind of stuck. I threaded the nut back on a bit and tried to use a small hammer to tap it out to no avail. I'm assuming the striker needs to be removed to pull out the shifting bar. Jeff
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