Leaderboard

I don't see any posts about EGR on your car on this forum either. Maybe you're getting your forums mixed up? As far as the FSM goes, these early FSM's are like school textbooks. Much more educational than today's FSM's. I have to say it, even though it won't make you feel better - the title of the thread is mirronic. I just now made that word up, because "ironic" is used incorrectly so often. Anyway, don't get caught up in anybody's comments, if you think they're negative. There's plenty of positive here to destroy the negativity.

Worked on wrapping up my flooring this weekend. Started off with POR15 base coat which was silver. I used their fiberglass fabric to fill in any extra pin holes I had laying around. No longer in the stone ages like the Flintstones! Then used the gloss black for the second coat. This helped a ton with finding where I missed a second coat. If I were to leave the floors raw, I would use their top coat. It adds UV protection and a satin finish. The gloss black shows every imperfection! But it does level extremely nicely. No brush strokes in site. Lastly I used Killmat as my sound deadening. I started off with just trying to hit the main flat spots of each panel but I have way more material than I though I needed so I started to fill in the blanks. Overall I’m happy with how it came out. Not that it matters since it will all be covered with carpet 😅 But boy what a nice change to be able to sit in the car and not worry about getting tetanus or dragging dirt into the house. No more smells of musk and I won’t hear every rock and pebble 😊

Some outside photos of the Z.

I'm-a-lookin... I'm-a-lookin. So far, I got close, but no cigar: I haven't gotten to Memphis yet...

Since a GRAND MASTER is never wrong, the disparate response above was referring to earlier comments by both Patcon and Siteunseen. However does anyone have a picture of them together in the same place at the same time as proof they're not the same guy?

Classic old style Blues

Word.

We need to look into having GRAND MASTER shirts made. 😎

Based on what I saw I assumed it would be taken as a compliment. Oh well. The funny part is I'm not really interested in the Proto-Z or the 0-60 times, or the physics, or the math. I was just making an indirect comment about the hijacking. Thread-jacking is rude.

I'm wearing my Back Forty shirt right now. I think of you every time I see it.

I have pulled my dash out of my '75 280Z to replace the heater control valves and heater core. Before doing so I tried to get a better idea of which wires that needed to be undone before removal. I have the Factory service manual and have watched several YouTube videos but none do a very good job of identifying exactly what the wires look like and where or how that can be gotten to (is it under the dash or after the dash is pulled out a little). I realize that this may be a little basic for all those who have already pulled their dashes and pretty much know what and where to find these wires. The bolts are pretty much no brainers. The speedo cable was located in an area that I could not get my hand up into and then be able to turn the knurled base to unscrew it. I was able to undo the two screws that holds the tac in and simply pulled it out far enough to get my other hand in there and with both hands I was able to unscrew it. The wires on the passenger side were straight forward, just unplug the five connectors just above the passenger's right knee under the dash (first picture). On the driver's side, you must unplug the two bullet connectors for the brake light switch and a white plastic 6 prong connector just under the edge of the dash between the steering column and the headlight switch. These are shown in the second picture. The white 6 prong plug is in the upper left with the two bullet connectors just below. The dash is upside down on my work bench so it might be a little confusing. These must be disconnected by getting under the dash. For the rest of the wires I found that if I pulled the dash out about 4 inches, that I could simply look back there and disconnect them as needed. The third picture shows these disconnected wires. There are 3 bullet connectors, 2 'L' shaped white plugs, and 1 white single wire plug.

Wow…..Talk about a hijacked thread! Whatever happened to the new Proto Z?

I realize that I'm late to this thread, but I would like to add my experience while I recently brought my entire electrical system back on-line. Rather than use a battery, I used a cheap 'laboratory' power supply, capable of 12 volts at 10 amps. The nice thing is that you can put it in current-limiting mode to limit the current to, for example, 1 amp, or even less. This can let you do a lot of testing and probing without burning things up. It also lets you see the current draw of the working circuits.

This is a neat new thing @Mike has done for deranged praise seekers like me. I need to get out more but I'm a happy "safer at home" person too.

And another! I could go for days.

Here's another surprise to me. The guy is a chick magnet but he can play the guitar like a mother.

Bonamassa is a real talent, and he CAN play wonderfully. I saw him at Red Rocks this summer and both I and my friends attending were let down by his performance. When he plays, it's all about him. Endless guitar wanking, going on in his solos much too long, and too much emphasis on his own originals which designed to let him go on and on. When he steps out of his "look at me, I'm the star" mode long enough to try a traditional blues tune or let someone else in the band really take some solo time, he's really good. Otherwise, he wore out his schtick in about 45 minutes. I love good guitar, especially living and dead musicans like Danny Gatton, "Richard" Dale, Santana, Popa Chubby and many others. I love Bonammassa's technique, just not the way he uses it when he performs. (Got a chuckle from the website automatically turning Dale's first name into D***. Therefore, I used Richard.)

Actually, it would be from neutral to reverse. Straight right, then down. To get past the lockout mechanism. Just saying...

I think that many people just get offended by the lack of effort some people put out to understand how things work before removing them. And the fact that in many cases the car will stink more and run worse afterward. For example, the BCDD's purpose is to let air in to the intake system so that the fuel from the injectors can properly burn. Without the BCDD the injectors still squirt some fuel even with the throttle blade shut that passes through and out the tail pipe, creating the "old car stink" that anybody who's been behind one hates. Removes the cats - mores stink. Remove the EGR - you're contributing to smog. Remove the AAR - you'll have to hold your foot on the throttle pedal or blip the engine until it's warm enough to keep running on its own. So the engineering types who work in fields that actually created these amazing technological conveniences can get a bit offended. To anyone who does plan to remove these things, just take a little time and try to understand what they do and why they are there, instead of posting about removing "emissions crap". It only takes a little bit of time and gives you the ammo to say that you've considered it and made your decision.

I think you mean 5th to Reverse. The reverse lockout was developed to stop people hitting reverse when coming back from 5th to 4th gear. That is one of the reasons reverse gears are zo badly chipped in the ealy model 5 speed.

Not racing but pacing......

Road America

Edited, moving on

Wow, that’s a lot of work. Well done, you’ve been a busy beaver.

Nope. That's all I got. Close, but no cigar. I do, however, have a couple of pics that are simply loaded with GRAND MASTERS. Here's a couple of my favorites:

Do you have a link or a name? I'm sure Amazon probably has a list available but a starting point is always good.

This looks like math-nerd bench racing. No need to drive the cars, the numbers tell us what will happen.

I would follow Charles off a Cliff.

I don't know how many badges there are available... All I know is that we're all chasing Cliff! So he's got eleven and you've only got ten. The one that he has that you don't is "Well Followed". You need to have 10 people following you to get that badge and you've only got nine. So you need to lobby JUST ONE MORE PERSON to follow you and you'll have as many badges as Cliff. I'm two badges behind, and the one I'm chasing now is "Dedicated" (which you and Cliff both already have). It requires you to log in for seven days straight. With my hit-and-miss on-line presence, I've apparently never achieved that. I'm trying now though, starting yesterday. Haha!! Of course, if @Mike catches wind of any of this gaming of the system, it's all over. LOL. There are threads on the interwebs about this new badge system and turning it into a video game. It's designed to encourage participation and site traffic. Most people seem to like it.

Is it bad, I can quote that whole scene??? Actually, I can probably quote most of that movie...

But, Count De Monet (Count da Money) would also know that GRAND MASTERS only use their powers for good, not evil, on this forum. With awesome power comes awesome responsibility. You may quote me. 😎

I couldn't find where EGR was discussed in the new to me 280z thread. Was it on another forum? Nice car by the way. Deleting the EGR and catalytic converter from my '80ZX were one of the 1st things I did to it. Were you wanting to know what equipment and lines to delete? Or just whether or not the deleting it can have a negative impact? I don't really think it has any adverse effects.

Thats what i thought! i can't see any problem in your last topic about your 280z.. we let you do your thing.. helped where we could..

What's your point? I deleted mine without any problems just a lot of reading. It was all common sense but for you, an engineer, it should be much easier.

The only math I know is gas pedal+foot=speed

If you have 30 psi at idle, I would consider that very good

Thanks for the tips. I have only done a cold valve adjustment so I need to get it hot and do another adjustment . The engine has less than 30 mins run time on it so I’m slowly exercising it. Yesterday the oil pressure gauge looked low to me. The scale on the gauge goes 0-90psi. The needle was sitting around 30psi. Not sure yet if this is correct. Could be the sensor which is a ZX version (2 spade connectors vs 1 bullet). I made an adaptor plug to got from bullet to spade and left on spade fitting empty. Maybe that’s the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your car looks great! Congrats on the progress. I just hear normal injector tick, not exhaust leakage or valvetrain noise.

i'd have to hear it in person to decide if it's valve noise or just normal injector noise. In any event, the car looks great. I'm so happy you're getting some time behind the wheel!

I agree. It's a "clickity" sound not the "tangity" sound from exhaust leaking. A short piece of hose for a stethoscope would be helpful locating the source. Car looks great! It's been enjoyable for me reading your thread. You know what you wanted and now you have it. Well done!

Check valve lash. You sound like you have a noisy lifter or two. I don't think its an exhaust leak...

Didn't you get the memo? All Classic Z Car members must wear their requisite pieces of flair when posting 😉

But since when has (as mentioned in the BaT comments) the rather slippery concept of a "95+ Point Concours Restoration" become the standard by which a respectably refreshed daily/occasional driver level car should be valued? I don't know about anyone else, but I don't count the hours the work on my cars takes. It's a pleasure I'm happy to pay for when I can afford it. I don't tot up the hours I spend drinking beer, reading books or listening to good music either. I reckon many (most!) of the cars I've owned and sold have been negative equity propositions if judged purely in monetary terms. Well, so what? I enjoyed them when they were enjoyable, and was frustrated by the ones that let me down. That's the hobby. But the narrative from these over-invested grifters is that the only way is up, and they appear to judge the success/failure of ownership on whether they've made more than anyone else by bailing out at the right time. They're not connoisseurs, they're braggards. They don't hype these sales for the love and understanding of the cars.

I think it is always a good idea to post up resources for the community. That way we can support those vendors that help keep these cars on the road.

Pretty sure the switch (not a sensor) is a straight thread, not a tapered pipe thread like the plugs, and it has proper flats for a wrench. 17 or 19 mm if I recall right. Should come right out, your biggest worry will be damaging the wires which will be rock hard after 40 years of baking. Heat will have a big effect. Those plugs have been bathed in transmission fluid on the other side for years and are steel in aluminum. If they've never been out then they still have Nissan's super sealant on the threads. Heat will loosen the sealant. Heat. Heat. Heat. When I was removing my diff fill plug I could only get it to turn after heat. As it cooled down it tightened up again.