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Cruzzar

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About Cruzzar

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Visalia, Ca.
  • Occupation
    Retired

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    Have worked on cars my entire life. This is my first Datsun Z. I purchased it from my neighbor who purchased it for his wife brand new in 1975. It has been parked inside for 22 years.

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  1. I thought I would post what I have done to complete my retrofit from R12 to 134a. I ordered a Vintage Air 12" x 24" condenser from Summit Racing since the old condenser was a 12 x 24. The new condenser comes with #6 and #8 male o ring fittings. Since I am trying to keep this retrofit stock looking as possible I found that you can remove the stock condenser's brackets and reuse them on the new condenser with a little modification. Since the new condenser is slightly wider you will need to slot the 4 mounting holes about 3/16" toward each other. The only other modification needed is on the left
  2. It sounds like you need is a crimping tool that is small enough to put enough pressure on the top antenna section to hold it to the filament. I have made a simple crimping tool using a vise grip pliers and a Dremmel tool with a small cut off wheel. You need to grind a small groove into each side of the vise grip's jaws that is slightly smaller that the antenna's porting that is to be crimped. It would be helpful if you had several test pieces so the amount of crimp could be adjusted but that may not be possible.
  3. Just checked the old oil and it looks like clean engine oil. No evidence of oil breakdown or contaminates so I will drain the new compressor and reload with 6 oz. of Ester oil. I am still waiting for some fittings and will post when all is back in working order. Thanks for the tip on the Ester oil, I really didn't want to break the oil ring seal on the expansion valve.
  4. Dave, I am replacing: the compressor, the condenser with a PF unit from Vintage Air, the drier and the low pressure hose. I have heard of using Ester oil because of its compatibility with the mineral oil but have never run into a situation where I would use it. I am going out today and draining the old compressor's oil and will take a good look at it to see if there is any indication of contamination, if it looks good then I guess I drain the new compressor's oil and replace it with Ester oil and I should be good for vacuum and recharge. Sound OK or have I missed anything or any other area tha
  5. My understanding is that the original compressor oil is not compatible with the new pag oil for the 134a. If the mix they have a tendency to coagulate. Do you think if I try to flush with the expansion valve in place that I will get enough volume of cleaner to flush out any remaining oil in the evaporator. The system has always had pressure in it, I am making the change because the original Hatachi compressor was starting to make noise. I don't know what the origin of the noise was but I did not want to chance it plugging up the expansion valve because of its unobtanium supply. I am open to a
  6. I need to flush my evaporator and I am wondering if anyone has any experience doing this? The problem that I see is how to backflush. I have never flushed an AC system so any help will be appreciated. I am assuming that I have to take the expansion valve out of the system. can pull the existing expansion valve and flush the #10 line going to the firewall but how do I flush the other direction? How do I insure the flushing liquid goes thru the evaporator coils before it exits back toward where the drier hooks up? Do I need the make a fake expansion valve the will have a barbed end to attach th
  7. I forgot to mention, the correct length belt for this new modification is a Gates XL 9350 (15/32" x 35 3/8" or 12mm x 899mm). I barely fits over the pulleys with the tensioner pulley completely slack and when the tensioner pulley tightens the belt properly it still has about 3/4" of travel up.
  8. Switch the two wires on the fuel pump, if they are backwards the pump runs but runs backwards and it will never start. Ask my how I know.
  9. I thought I would share how I went about converting my old R12 system in my 1975 280Z to R134a. My system charged up OK after sitting dormant since 1995. It still had a charge in it but not enough to cool the air. Once charged it put out about 50 degree air on a 102 degree day (good) but the old Hatachi compressor made some really nasty noises (bad). The compressor was louder than the motor while driving down the road. I worried that the dying compressor would contaminate the system and if it plugged up the expansion valve I would be up the proverbial creek without an adequate means of propuls
  10. S30, the condenser that I am using (new from Vintage Air, 12" x 24") has #6 and #8 0 ring fittings. I will try to run a hard line from the #6 condenser fitting to the drier. The drier I have has #6 male flare fittings so the exit side of the drier will mount up to the stock hard lines going to the evaporator. I am going to use one of NostalgicAC's flare to o ring adapters. I will probably have to replace the stock Datsun #6 hard line that goes from the condenser to the drier with a hard line that has o ring fittings on both ends.
  11. I am aware of using a flex line between the compressor and condenser. My question relates to the hard line from the condenser to the drier.
  12. Before ordering you might check with the supplier about the availability of the carpet. I ordered a rear carpet (loop style) from MSA in February and it is still on back order. I have called them on three occasions and they tell me the supplier has not been able to secure the products necessary to make delivery.
  13. As mentioned above I would like to keep the engine bay stock looking . I would like to keep the hard lines going to the compressor which would entail using a drier with compression fittings. I will be upgrading to a new condenser that will have o ring fittings. Hooking up the condenser to the drier would require going from an o ring (on the condenser) to a compression fitting on the drier which would be easy if I were to put a hose in the process of connecting the two. If I try to run a hard line between these two then the only way I see that this can be done is to use an o ring to compression
  14. S30Driver, thanks for the links to drier and pressure switch. I have seen this drier on a Utube video. Question: on the second link (for the pressure switch) shouldn't the pressure switch be a high pressure switch not a low pressure switch as what was originally installed ?
  15. I need to replace my Hatachi compressor and in the process I will convert to 134a. I need to find a replacement for my drier. Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement that has ports that are close to matching up with the existing hardlines. I read somewhere that the later Nissan AC systems used a drier that was a close fit. Does anyone have an application or part number to suggest. I know I can just get a generic drier and make it fit but I would like to keep the installation looking as stock as possible. I have a '75 280Z.
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