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Cruzzar

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About Cruzzar

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Visalia, Ca.
  • Occupation
    Retired

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    Have worked on cars my entire life. This is my first Datsun Z. I purchased it from my neighbor who purchased it for his wife brand new in 1975. It has been parked inside for 22 years.

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  1. Called yesterday, the Z store MSA) is out of stock. I have the booster pictured on the right. Brakes were working just fine and then no assist, pulled hose and tried to pull a vacuum and could not get one, diaphragm appears to be bad. The booster is in really good condition and quite rebuildable. I want to send it in to a rebuilder myself and get it returned to me without going thru another set of hands. I want to get this car back on the road. Heyitstrama, this is just what I was looking for, I will give them a call, thanks.
  2. My brake booster just went out on my 75 280Z and I would like to replace it but suppliers are either out of stock, want me to send in my booster and they will have it rebuilt or sell me a newer modern booster. I want a replacement booster that has the vacuum port coming straight out that will align with the stock Datsun preformed vacuum line and not the generic one that comes out and then turns at a 45 deg. angle. I have already ordered two boosters (Autozone) that are direct replacements and they show up with the vacuum port that comes out and then angles which is not what I have stock on my
  3. I did make sure the wire ring was clean and made a good ground after I installed it. Do you think there is one wire or are more than one that transmits the varied resistances to the ECU based on the vane position? I did try to clean the female connector but I can't say I did a good job. Does anyone have a good way to cleans in between the metal connectors? I gave up on trying to clean up the injector connections and just replaced them. They were covered with green calk-like corrosion.
  4. Eureka!!!!!!!! One of the first things that showed a possible problem when I first ran into this problem was my AFM so I replaced it with a rebuilt one but checked it before installation. I tried increasing the fuel pressure as suggested by Siteunseen with no improvement. I was just about to pull the ECU plug and go over the testing procedures to see if I missed anything but instead I called a friend of mine who has some Z stuff to see if he had an old AFM that I could install and see if it made any difference. W E L L L L L L L L L ------- I install this used, grungy one from a frien
  5. Zed Head, In regards to the EGR, I have pulled a vacuum on the EGR valve and it holds a vacuum, I have plugged the vacuum port for that hose with still no change in engine performance, I even plugged both vacuum hoses going to the fuel canister with no change. Is it possible that the EGR valve is stuck in the open position and causing a vacuum leak? At idle when warm it pulls 18 inches. of Hg. so I think the pressure regulator is receiving a strong signal. I have not checked the PCV (I don't even know where it is) is it possible that it is stuck? I can pull the hose coming from the top of the
  6. Siteunseen, great idea, I have a tube clamping visegrip pliers and will try that, that should eliminate a lower than normal fuel pressure issue. This is why forums like this are soo good for car owners.
  7. 240260280, I unplugged the switch yesterday and problem still exists. I am wondering if it could be an ignition advance problem. I put my light on it and at 2500 rpms I can get about 25 degrees of advance. It it hard for me to get a good reading above that rpm because of the engine wanting to slow down.
  8. Roberts280z, when I replaced the fuel pump I checked the inlet screen and it was clean ( it was a brand new Nissan pump for the 280Z). I put a new fuel filter and blew out all steel lines before replacing the hoses. The fuel pressure check valve will lose about 15 psi overnight. The car will start up in a very short period of cranking and idles very well. Initially on start up it will be about 12.1 and within a short time go to 12.9 to 13. This a/f ratio will change with the changing of the gear in the AFM . The weather here is warm so I don't think the cold start injector is even operating. I
  9. Siteunseen, I have cleaned both set of points and checked their continuity, both are good. From what i have read the off idle should come off sooner than 2500. I have pulled the cover and can visually see that the idle points are open when the engine goes lean. I could bend the arm on the go rich (second set of points) and have it engage sooner but this was a running car in good condition when it was parked.
  10. I have had the fuel pressure gauge hooked up as I increased the rpms and it holds a solid 32 psi until it falls on its face at which time the psi goes up. I could do a flow test but at times I can get the rpms up to 3500 if I advance very slowly indicating to me that the injectors have the flow capacity and the a/f ratio is rich enough to maintain combustion. It is like I need to increase the the size of the accelerator jet in a carb. to make the transition from the primarys to the secondaries.
  11. First post here but have been a spectator for about 4 months trying to absorb as much information as possible. I recently obtained a 1975 Datsun 280Z from my neighbor who purchased the car new as an anniversary present for his wife. He owned the local Datsun dealership at the time so all maintenance was done by his dealership. She drove the car until it had about 106,000 miles at which time she got a new car with an automatic transmission (this was a 4 speed car). The car has had a pampered life. She always garaged it and took good care of it. He put a non op with the DMV, pulled the plugs and
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