Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Barefootdan

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 35153

  • Rank: CollaborZator

  • Content Count: 168

  • Content Post Ratio: 0.52

  • Reputation: 82

  • Achievement Points: 1,090

  • Member Of The Days Won: 0

  • Joined: 03/13/2021

  • Been With Us For: 321 Days

  • Last Activity:

  • Currently:



  • Map Location
    Peoria, AZ

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Barefootdan's Achievements


CollaborZator (7/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Reacting Well Rare

Recent Badges



  1. Take whatever time estimate you have for a wiring job and double it 🙂 So many lessons learned and I cant wait to share them all with you when I am finished. But for now I was working on fixing my turn signal stalk. The PCB board was so brittle that when I disassembled to clean the contacts, it was just falling apart. I was a bit upset that it came apart and I started to look into replacements. I really wanted to keep the OEM stalk and not go aftermarket. Everything was fairly pricey though, so I looked into fixing myself. I found this thread on HybridZ where a toggle switch accomplishes the same function of the OEM switch. A quick print for a bracket and new slider and boom, we're back in business! The switch in the Off position: Then each direction works flawlessly. It retains the nice CLICK as well.
  2. Thanks @Av8ferg! I will totally print up a set of the bumper plates. One thing I am wondering is, are all bumper cut outs the same size? I only have my '75 to measure. If you get a chance, can you let me know the dimensions of one larger and one of the smaller cutouts? Just want to make sure before I send something that doesnt fit 🙂
  3. A few updates since last month. I’ve been able to find the studs needed to mount the mikuni manifold. Cleaned and painted it as well. Can’t wait to clean up the carbs next. I’ve been playing around a lot with the 3D printer. I created a faceplate adapter for my switch panel. Slides into my center console and I will be able to screw on the actual switch panel to this adapter via the four screw holes. Looking at original center consoles online, it looks like mine was hacked up for an aftermarket radio at one point so it was missing the upper material. This new adapter should add back in some rigidity. I also toyed around with some filler plates for the rear bumper. I know the proper way is to weld in blanks, but this was just a fun side project 🙂 they clip in and are fit very nicely! And then the big project of wiring has started. The engine bay is getting a full new harness, then I am creating adapters to plug into the dash and body harness. Originally I wanted to redo the full body harness as well but all of the connectors inside were fine. Laying out the harness side by side for lengths. Organized chaos! Luckily, my wife is out of town this week so I’m taking advantage of making the dining room a workshop for a bit. Test fitting in the bay before I start adding plugs! So satisfying to see it come together. My little helper! Im about 80% done with the fuse box side of the harness. A few small fused items left to run and then I can start working on connecting the engine bay side. During this I deviated from my original schematics so I will be needing to update that for future reference. I removed my shunt, externally regulated alternator, and all original relays/flashers. I won’t be running my amp meter, instead going for a volt meter. All relays are now modern bosch style, albeit the micro 280 series size to fit within my distribution block. I have a main 125amp circuit breaker in place, continuous duty relay as a main power trigger, and all new weather pack connectors with GXL wire. There a few circuits I’m slightly confused on so I’ll need to finish those up in car to trace all of my leads accordingly. Surprisingly I barely used my schematic I made. I used the OEM wiring diagram more often. Maybe I need to trust myself more 😉
  4. @Av8ferg I won’t be using any of my oem hvac system besides the control panel. I can send you some photos of what I have in hopes it can help. I’m not sure how operational it is since I never tried to use it and it sat for 20 years. Let me know 👍
  5. I took mine out about a month ago, I can snap some photos if you need any. But pretty much, remove all the screws 🙂 there were a couple screws holding it to the firewall (I believe on the driver side) that I missed for the longest time. I pulled the core and HVAC controls all together. You’re on the right path by removing the blower first.
  6. My suggestion would be to remove the line that goes from the back of your block to the front and plug both ends. It would mimic the OEM heater core when you’re not running heat in the car. Hopefully improving your cooling issue?
  7. I know I said I wasn’t going to do work on the Z because of the holidays, but maybe this counts as holiday decorticating?😅 I felt the bay needed a splash of color
  8. Quick question I haven’t had much luck researching on…in my last photo of the manifold, there are 3 locations for studs. The center, larger, is what I plan to use, with a smaller hole on either side. What are these for?
  9. I would replace the metal too if I had access to a welder. Since you’re there, might as well. As for the sound deadening, I just did mine but only the front so total opposite of you! I can say it was definitely on there well. Dried ice helped a ton and made it come off in large chunks. Maybe do a test piece that’s smaller to see? Worst case is only about a couple hours to get it all off anyway.
  10. The last photo looks like your heater core is bypassed? I’ve read about bypassing it and that it’s better to plug the fitting at the back of the block rather than looping it. I guess this is how the factory heater core works (stopping flow, not rerouting). Perhaps this could help?
  11. I spoke with Taka over at Kyusha House, very nice by the way, and we identified the manifold as a Mikuni. Even though there is no stamping, Taka let me know that there are version with and without stamping. I opened up one of the carbs to get a better idea of the inside condition and luckily it was not bad at all. No jets appeared clogged and there was no gunk in the bowl. I think (and hope) an ultra sonic cleaning will suffice. From there I would like to get all of the hardware plated so I will be researching recommended places to send the hardware off to. Also, it is nice that rebuild kits are easy to come by. Even the diaphragms are available which I will replace just in case. The jetting installed looked to be the original jets and choke size, so I will start with these and see how she runs. I will take a break from working on the car during the holidays, so I have been playing with Fusion 360 in my spare time. I came up with a simple velocity stack design, 100mm long. No idea if my initial radius are optimal, but its an easy change. I tried to maximize the diameter of the trumpet without causing interference with its neighbor. The flange was super easy to create! Up next will probably be a throttle cable bracket as I am missing that piece on my first carb. Everything will be printed in ASA, which should have enough heat tolerance for this application. A heat shield under the carbs will also be used.
  12. Took out the old efi setup and manifold. Wow it’s so clean now without all these wires! The butterflies has a stamping of 175 which leads to the 44mm version. This should play nice with the high compression pistons and eventually a cam. I mocked up the new manifold for fit and just to get a sense of everything. I wasn’t able to find any stampings or markings on the manifold, does anyone recognize it by chance? I also noticed the top 4 mounting holes won’t fit the oem style bolt since the runners are so short. I’m assuming I’ll need to switch to a stud and nut setup? Next tasks to figure out are the mounting studs, linkage setup, choke pull (is this needed in Arizona temps? Sorry this is my first carburetor!) and rebuild kits. I’ll grab a low pressure fuel pump and regulator to get around 3-4psi of fuel and use my return line as well. I might print my own velocity stacks in the mean time since they go for a pretty penny.
  13. Wasn’t expecting to pick up these beauties. But they came up locally for an amazing price and I couldn’t pass them up!! im not sure yet if they are 40 or 44mm or the intake manifold brand. I’ll be tearing them down for a clean and rebuild which should answer some of my questions. I can’t wait to get all of the ugly EFI components out of the bay…and one less harness to make! Time to read up on these bad boys 🙂
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.