Barefootdan

I used weather pack in my harness and I’d recommend them. Easy to crimp and pin…and de-pin! The only downside to them is they’re bulky. I used the 280 series if I recall correctly and the 6 pin isn’t small. I do know they have slimmer series though up to 12 pin I believe. But for the large bulkhead connectors I used a molex style. Deutsch has some nice connectors, especially if you want the whole chassis to be the same connector style. Definitely get a quality crimper!! For wiring I went GXL. I felt it provided sufficient coverage for regular driving. 11 colors was enough diversity for me to not get mixed up. But I did remove alot of the OEM options (door lights, buzzers, safety, etc). Wirebarn was a good source for this. Check out my build thread for more details on it and feel free to ask any questions!

I took apart the rear suspension again to loosen it all up. I was sure to tighten in the correct order and with the weight of the car on the suspension. I feel that this did help quite a bit! Although, I am not sure if my eyes are playing a trick on me or what, but I think I still see some toe happening. I may need to do a quick and dirty toe measurement with some plates to get a better idea! But for now I am moving on until I can get my hands on new wheels and tires. Other fiddling I did was fixing my fuel gauge. It was always showing empty and never even budged when I turned power on. I started to diagnose the wiring and was just about to pull the gauge when I found a good post suggestion. Grounding at the connector near the fuel tank will simulate a full tank of gas. And funny enough when I did this, the gauge started to come to life! It was definitely sticky and jumped across its sweep until it came to Full. I think it just needed some OOMPH to get it moving 🙂 Glad to see my fuel amount now!

@SteveJ Might have a lead on this. I know he worked on finding a good solution for the door seals!

I’ll give it a shot! Visually it looked okay but I black bushings with black chassis paint I could be off. Did you tighten the large bolts first or the two smaller carrier bolts? If I recall, poly bushings don’t care about the order of operations but I’d it’d just add some peace of mind.

I got everything torqued down and took her for a spin after a couple months of sitting around! Apart from some small annoyances like my steering wheel off center (fixed after the drive) the test drive went well. I have some small steering wheel vibration but I’m not worrying about this with the old wheel and tire combo that’s on the car right now. I am betting it is just an out of balance wheel. When I came home I did notice that my passenger rear wheel has some toe in. As these done have toe adjustment, something isn’t right. passenger side: driver side: I took off the wheel for any noticeable mishaps. Nothing looks out of place and bushings appear to be seated correctly. I checked for any loose bolts or nuts in case I missed my first round of torquing. Perhaps there’s a sequence I missed? I then measured the two control arms and both were very nearly identical. I also measured my hub to the back plate and I could tell it was off in the correct direction by about 1/16”. Although I’m not sure this measurement reference point is most accurate to use? I’m thinking the old sloppy bushings hid this well and putting in new poly bushings shed some light to the issue. I’ll need to investigate more but it’s a bummer after putting in all that work!

Same issue here during my install. The strut rod would spin as soon as any meaningful amount of torque was applied to the top nut. I ended up using a make shift strap wrench to get it tightened down more, but definitely not to the Koni specs still. I believe you can buy a socket with a cutout that will let you slide in a wrench to hold the strut...but who has time for that! 😂

I was able to wrap up installing all the remaining suspension bits! Definitely not a fun job alone 😅 aligning the diff, lifting the strut assemblies, and that damn sway bar! Overall it went in smooth with only two hiccups. First being I installed the passenger side control arm upside my first time around. Second was the spindle pin does have a direction! I must’ve guessed correctly on the passenger side because when I did the driver side I noticed the locking pin wouldn’t line up. Needless to say, I think the spindle pin curse struck me on install since I didn’t pay my dues during removal. I still have some finishing touches before I can take a spin. Bleed the brakes, adjust emergency brake, torque bushings, adjust toe and camber. For those that have tightened the bushing bolts without a lift, any tips on reaching all the bolts with the car on the ground? I’m looking around to see if any friends or family have some ramps I can drive up as that was my first thought.

Gorgeous!!! Love the ride height as well. Where are you in terms of stiffness on the Konis? i.e. how many turns out?

No I dont think a camber kit is needed. I only went that route since all of my isolator bushings were shot and it was the same price to get the camber kit as oem replacements. So the added adjustability is nice to have!

I can’t wait to try them out! I finished painting all the parts and removing the bushings. I’ve started to reinstall the front end and making progress but it’s definitely slower than removal!

What?

I have read this too. The aftermarket options don’t have nearly as large an opening as the OEM variant. I’m running a 280 radiator, two electric fans, and a full shroud. Inside is some distilled water with water wetter. No issues since I added the shroud!

That’s sick! I’m jealous of the shirt 🙂

Another side project I've been working on is creating a platform to sell some of the parts I have made during this build. Feel free to check it out: Hadashigarage.com Mods, please remove if not allowed.

Looks great. Those half shafts came out awesome. Did you install new boots as well?