Leaderboard

Sound deadener and wiring harness is in, she's supporting her weight again and ready to install the engine/trans this weekend. The car will sit a lot lower when the weight is back to normal.

I got the oil pan off! The PLA wrench i printed didn't work but it gave me the dimensions I needed to get a couple of steel wrenches made. The oil pan is surprisingly complex with several baffles, screens, and 4 spring-loaded flaps. There was hardly any sludge in the bottom of the pan but the car likely had just 40K miles on it since the installation in the early 80's. I still see no reason for the second oil drain plug on top of the tank. I had to remove the plug to get even my modified wrench with a ground-down socket in there. I will need to cut or grind off some of the brim around the oil pan so that I can get that one troublesome bolt back in.

Verified the driveshaft has the preferred “droop” to keep the u joints working properly. Trans output is level, then checked the diff and it is level, then checked the driveshaft and there is about 2.5 degrees of drop down along the shaft to the diff. Very close to the “magic” 3 degrees!

I was on a roll this afternoon,

Pan in the arse for mr. Berk.

This is a great topic especially if your looking for a trickle battery charger or one to replace a dead charger. I had the tan 5 AMP charger pictured for over 40 years and it finally died. Well my neighbor helped by hosing down the charger with water. Anyway, Instead of replacing the diodes I just tossed the charger and started looking for a new one, what a shock. I tried three new charges that died before I went looking for a SEARS unit like my old charger. I found the two Sears charges as pictured on eBay. The 5 AMP is my " go to" and the 6/2 AMP is a backup. These are very heaving duty, work all the time and never overcharge the battery. I had to change the power cords and the battery clamps, but this is the only charger I will use. You can find them on eBay for no more $ than the newer chargers that are JUNK! SEARS use to contract different company's to build quality products , but that time has long passed. The garbage we see today is from CHINA! end rant

Sold $545k

In the final stages of completing the rebuild of a motor for my 77 280z. To go along with it, I wanted to upgrade the stock compressor to a Sanden 508 from Vintage Air. The simplest solution appears to be the slotted brackets welded to a steel plate such as what Freez74 did. I wanted the idler pulley for tension adjustment, so I sourced a alloy zx ac bracket and some 1/4" plate 6061 aluminum to fabricate a adaptor. First was the alignment of the idler & compressor. After a test fit of the compressor on the stock bracket, I had to move it back about 12mm so I cut the idler frame ears, removed the correct length, and welded it back together. Also had to grind some material from the stock bracket for compressor clearance. Next, I carefully measured the distance the stock bracket needed to move forward on the adapter plate to align with the damper pulley, about 9mm. Drilled the M10 bolt holes for the adapter plate to mount on the block and the drilled the offset holes for the stock bracket to mount to my adapter. Ran into a clearance issue with the lower right bolt for the stock adaptor too close to the oil pan, so I redrilled one hole up higher on both the adapter & the stock bracket to overcome this. Loosely assembled my creation on the motor with a belt and all looks good. Just need to do a few finishing touches, paint my adapter and the idler assembly block color, and replace the idler bearing with a new one. I will also slot the holes a couple of mm where the stock bracket mounts to my adaptor to allow fine tuning of the belt alignment.

Since it is 520 Day the 240Z wanted a photo with his garage mate. Keith

Maybe that top `drain` is for a turbo? you know the rules right? You have to turbo your motor now that your oil pan supports it. 😛 I dont make the rules i just point them out.

The guy from Edmonton who “owned” this car for a short time brought it to the states and raced it at Portland International Raceway and Seattle International Raceway (now known as Pacific Raceway at a couple of ICSCC club racing meets.

Dammit, that is a far simpler solution then I came up with.

Thats a nice pan!

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-56/ $500,000.00 now, ends in 2 hours.

The original clips are near spring steel. When they are plucked with your fingers when mounted on the car they have a high pitch (plink) if they are sound. If they make a duller sound (plunk) they most likely are cracked and won't adequately grip the finisher panel to keep it in place.

I bought once a charger with start assist.. never used it to start.. just keeping batteries alife.. and yeah after 1,5 year it was dead.. i repaired it but then lateron it is dead again.. pff Junk.. Now i have an old transformer from an old security system that i can dial into the needed voltage of about 12,5-12,6 volt to keep the battery from draining.. works very well (the old stuff!!)

Absolutely....Caught me sleeping, but caught up and passed him at finish line. The 336 rear does better than his 410 top end, and the SU’s once agIn proved they can play with the big boys!

My timing light lets me set at the full advance, 34 I think is wherei have it, then I run it up to 3,000 and the timing goes to zero. Can't esplain it though. I do what the voices on my classiczcars.com tell me.

Nice sound @moelk. Five Z crazies went to Dinwiddie for a little competition Friday nite. EA6A6DF7-C686-4CB6-BD8D-96BC0F5CA4F2.MOV

What the old chargers did with a lot of copper and iron (in the form of a transformer), the new ones do with semiconductors. And in today's age, silicon is a lot cheaper than copper. So the bottom line is that most of the new chargers now have silicon components where the old transformers used to be. The way of the world. Lightweight silicon and software instead of heavy copper and capacitors.

So the car meet I attended was started by people who used to go to Caffeine and Octane in the Atlanta area. They got tired of how big C&O became. There are so many new Mustangs and Challengers at C&O that it looks more like a dealer lot than a car meet/show. In order to keep the meet smaller, they hold it at about the same time as C&O. There is usually a good variety of cars, too. The Z cars are definitely appreciated. Here's a video I shot of today's meet:

Did a tranny oil change. I read a lot of posts about people with squeezy bottles and pumps etc to get the oil in but I just made one of these ... And did this .... Thought I’d share in case it’s helpful to anyone else. Strangely with MT90 the ‘box feels less slick and smooth. I will likely try swepco 201 next on recommendation of a highly esteemed Z club member who is a Z God! The later ‘77 European box has the Porsche style steel synchros so GL5 is reportedly not going to be an issue. Will run it a few miles and evaluate later though, at least it gives the MT90 a chance to give the ‘box a good flushing!