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Zup last won the day on October 12 2019

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About Zup

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  • Map Location
    Bentonville, AR.(not Arizona)
  • Occupation
    project manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    2- 240z'z (1970 and 1973)<br />
    1-300zxtt (1990)

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Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30 167424
  • Zcar 2 VIN
    HLS30 7032

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  1. Great reference material Jim! When I posted above I had not yet read your exchange with Rich (motorman7) regarding creating the cables using the Pep Boys type terminal ends. You guys continually amaze me in your inventiveness and adaptations using off the shelf pieces, getting very acceptable (reasonable) results. To Everyone: Please accept my apologies if my comments appeared to be disparaging of anyone chosing to make their own. That was not my intent.
  2. Hi All, I started following this thread when I got back from an extended work trip and thought this link might be helpful: https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/7319377 Although these may be too pricey for some, Steve Nixon reproduces the cables and they are perfect replicas. I suggest that instead of creating another replica, time and money might be better spent supporting the efforts of those that have already done it. In reference to a few of the questions above: The Z Store does not have any of these original cables in stock and it is highly unlikely they will ever have them again. I purchased some of the last ones they had several years ago and have found a couple of sets from a Canadian source since, but recent inquiry informs that they are now unavailable. There is no discernible difference in the 70-72/ 73-74 cables. I have them installed on my 73. CanTechZ is correct. The positive cable is the only one that had a terminal insulator cap originally. Steve's reproductions have them on both in an abundance of caution. (Many Z owners do not purchase batteries with the correct terminal orientations) zKars your photography skills are really getting better---great closeups Jim!
  3. Zup

    Bolting in Seats

    I use white lithium grease and a fine tooth racheting box end wrench. (Gearwrench: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GearWrench-KDTools-Metric-7-Piece-Flex-Combination-Ratchet-Wrench-Set-9900-NEW/300930317149?epid=1717817801&hash=item4610d83b5d:g:yp8AAOxyAc1SPMfm ) This method has saved most of my cuss word vocabulary for other issues.
  4. Keep your meter right where it is calibrated Captain! That stuff has to be called out to keep us straight with the truth and you would be a pilot.
  5. This photo doesn't begin to do the craftsmanship justice. Beautiful and crisply executed in a manly manner. (if you get the point) My personal favorite is the one in brass. I'll be installing it on Zilver soon so it will always be with me on the car. A cherished possession crafted by my skilled Captain! I know Jim Frederick of Z Mecca fame------we've been friends for a long time. His offerings are genuine and real--no worries there. Pricey?? Yes, but when was the last time you saw a NOS one. A lot this Z stuff has gotten out of range of most of us. I agree with the Captain---if it came with the box and original packaging (if any) it might be worth it. His garage has ~20 pristine 240Z cars. He doesn't need the money, so I'm surprised he is selling.
  6. Right on Site!! Coop----sounds like this is under your control now. Best of luck with your conversion!
  7. You are in truly GREAT hands using the Captain's explanations and advice, but I will chirp in here with some comment. This is all dependent on a "given" that you intend to convert to round top carbs from the flat tops. The lower thermostat housing that you have with the blocked off port is interchangeable in mounting with the earlier lower thermostat housing. The upper housing caps are the same. You could swap out the lower housing, install an earlier manifold water fitting and reduce some of the clutter and previous owner damage. When and if you decide to change over to the earlier balance tube you will also have the opportunity to change to the earlier type water piping at the rear of the engine block. This would eliminate capping off the now un-necessary water lines on the water piping used on the later flat tops in that area. The routing of the water lines with the "Y" connection shown in your lower photo is on the wrong side of the block/ valve cover. It should be on the opposite side ---mounted below the spark plugs. It reduces in diameter and converts to a hard metal pipe the wraps behind the engine and connects to the rubber coupling shown above the heat shield on the lower photo. If you have on hand all of the parts shown in your photos you have most everything you need to make a complete proper conversion. I don't know if you have on hand the earlier metal water pipe that wraps around the rear of the engine. The capped port on the balance tube shown in your third photo should be plugged just like it is on the very end. Just a plug, instead of a fitting with rubber hose and a bolt. The remaining fitting is where you obtain vacuum for your brake booster and can be left there (vertically) or moved to the end (horizontally) depending on which hose type you have coming from the brake booster. I did the complete round top conversion on my 73, but then later made the decision to return to the "original" flat tops with all the associated air/ water/ vacuum plumbing in going back to a "stock" configuration.
  8. That was lifted from frost fighters website. Apparently there is no residual material after application---only the lines. A purpose built grid that matches in lengths, spacing and element thickness should be as close to original as one is probably going to get and in my mind would likely be a better performer than a mix of old and repaired segments or a new conductive grid with irregular thickness (hence resistive) properties. I appreciate your "do it myself" approach and applaud you for it. My only intent here is to see if there is interest in a quality one source solution that virtually anyone can purchase and install with a minimum of hassle and a maximum of performance.
  9. Dave, Late to this discussion but--- I made readings from a NOS hatch glass with horizontal defroster grid that I was fortunate enough to find and purchase recently. Using the 200 ohm setting on the VOM 1.6 ohms was the resistance value measured. I've thought in the past when S30driver and I were discussing this that we might reach out to frost fighter and see if they would consider a purpose built replacement grid for our Z's that would exactly register over the original element lines. Since almost all defrosters on our cars are non-op and that no source currently offers replacement hatch glass with the lines, there might be enough of a market that they would go for it at some price point. I'm reluctant to utter that iffy phrase "Group Buy" , but pre-sales might provide leverage as an inducement to them.
  10. Sounds right to me Jerry. That would match what I have observed and done on my resto's. Mike McGinnis would have the ZCCA correct Datsun blue. (middle of page) Ask Mike for confirmation of the smog pump back plate color when you call him with your order. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRequests.php
  11. It isn't. For the quality of your restoration this won't do. Weld it up or find an original unaltered tank. The long board coupled with repeated taping of the line and working both above and below the tape is how my painter established the line on Zilver.
  12. @LBO730 Bryan reproduced and sold the shift lever, handbrake lever and wiring harness wrap several years ago in both vinyl and leather material. The quality and accurate appearance he achieved was exceptional. Most everyone (including me) that purchased them were very pleased. Possibly he will see this and comment.
  13. I'll put one in the mail for this endeavor tomorrow Cap'tn.
  14. Pretty sure the red one and the one in the bottom photo are aftermarket. I have 2 of the original metal fans with original clutches---both are identical to the fan/clutch shown in zKars photo and as described by AZ240z. The factory service manual describes dis-assembly and replacement of the viscous fluid in the clutch.
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