Zup

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Zup last won the day on October 12

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About Zup

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    Frogsquisher

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  • Map Location
    Bentonville, AR.(not Arizona)
  • Occupation
    project manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
    300zx
  • About my Cars
    2- 240z'z (1970 and 1973)<br />
    1-300zxtt (1990)

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30 167424
  • Zcar 2 VIN
    HLS30 7032

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. That's the most thorough hoover job I've ever seen!!!
  2. Finished booking rooms for the Arkansas Jims. Funny---before you couldn't get 2 double beds---now you can't get King size. Some things aren't quite right but maybe it will get sorted. Kagy (the wifey) and the 2 white furry varmints are hanging-on for the duration unless they get 11th hour cold feet.
  3. Jay reproduces the downpipe as well. Can't believe he hasn't developed and offered the resonator/ mid-pipe section yet! Hopefully he will in the near future.
  4. Zup

    The blue 510

    Make that COLD STORAGE---
  5. Courtesy of an unfinished project I still intend to do when I enlisted the incredible help of Jim Karst @zKars Jim compiled this 18 page .pdf of photos with description of the number required, size, thread pitch and length for many of the fasteners as removed from a 12/70 240Z (if I remember correctly). 2 large boxes with altogether about 60 lbs. of parts. s30_Hardware_pictures.pdf Some techie may be able to open the .pdf and display them in a sticky post for easier access on this site. alas I am too challenged to do it myself.
  6. I stand corrected Captain. Seems my "clarify" was cloudy!! Thanks for setting the record straight!
  7. It is. They are the same parts--you gave much more complete photos. Looks like a very nice set you have there Martin!
  8. To clarify-- The 73 240z did not have shock absorbers incorporated into the bumper support mounts---that actually came late in 74.5 260z and into 75 in the 280z when the bumpers became the really large projecting "parkbench" type. The bumper support mounts were a very heavy stamped steel plate assembly with a round steel tube transversely mounted at the end. These are much more massive than the thin flat metal strapping that mounted the earlier bumpers and was indeed a design change to make the front bumper assembly more crash worthy. (If you agree that deformation of the bumper would still occur, but no "crush" of the bumper into the radiator support or engine compartment at a 5 mph frontal impact was an improvement.) As crash standards evolved to higher speed impacts (15 mph??) the transition to the shock absorber (controlled crush tube) method was implemented. Your car has the correct mounts and bumper. The plate you mentioned is not for reinforcement, but is merely a filler to close the otherwise large gap, and is correct. You are missing the front bumper over riders (or as some describe them "bumperettes") and the rubber covered filler pieces that fill the gap between the steel bumper and the headlight buckets (sugar scoops) above the turn signal indicator lights at the far ends of the bumper. The steel bumper covers most of this piece at each end. This is a photo of the passenger side filler. The drivers side is reversed. If the bumpers "fit terribly" as you state, it was the poor assembly work of the last person that mounted them. If done properly they fit quite well. Finding the rubber filler end pieces in restorable condition can be difficult in my experience. Many have deteriorated to the point of being very hard and cracked even if you do find them. Better candidates can be restored by applying many layers of a paintable rubber compound such as "Plastidip", drying between coats and sanding with progressively finer grits, then finishing with a final spray of Duplicolor "Vinyl Fabric". If you decide that this is too much to go through--- you can remove the 73 bumper, all of the filler pieces entirely, remove the heavy stamped steel bumper supports and replace them with the earlier type strapping supports, and source a used or new early bumper which will fit up much closer to the body. The earlier 70, 71, 72 240z bumpers are different from the later 73 240z bumpers in shape. Fortunately the mounting holes with concealed weld nuts for the earlier bumper supports are still present on the 73 body and can be used to mount the earlier bumper supports and earlier bumper.
  9. YOUSE GUYS ARE KILLIN ME WITH KINDNESS HERE! Thanks for the thought Philip,and the possible offer, Mr. Frankenstein. (is that steen ? or stine ?---) I doubt that a single point deduction of the valve cover finish will make or break my chances at Nashville. Each year it is usually my own fault due to some neglected bits of dirt or overlooked insect carcasses that cumulatively do the damage and throw the spanner in the works. It's OK. I'll keep trying.
  10. Sure hope you and family are O K Jim!!! Your Arkansas Jims are thinking of you!
  11. Zup

    240z Seat Strapping

    @kats Zed2, Seems Kats had some very nice clear photos of the re-webbing in one of his many authoritative posts.
  12. Timely post for me (and anyone else interested in a correct stock restoration) that you made here Philip-------and exactly as you said in your reply just now Charles!! How would you describe the finish as shown in the photos of this NOS valve cover?? Raw aluminum, as from the mold, satin finish??? Do you think there were any additional treatments or processes used to remove casting flash or surface/ finish irregularities? Attached is the judging sheet I received for entry of Zilver, my 1973 240Z, at the 2019 ZFest/Zcon held in Branson this past summer. 1 Zup Daniels 240Z stock.pdf The most difficult point deduction for me to understand regarding the comment of the judges was regarding the finish of the valve cover. ENGINE and ENGINE COMPARTMENT Comments Deduction 2. Engine block / oil pan / cylinder head valve cover finish blasted 1 My query is this: What is one to do? This photo is from engine restoration prior to Zcon 2015 in Memphis when I entered Zilver in "240Z Street Modified" class----before I made the conversion back to the original flat tops. After 47 years of accumulated use, (being subjected to oil changes, valve adjustments and all other manner of possible maintenance issues) certainly most, if not all, valve covers will need some form of restoration back to "as from factory" condition. Paint, polish or plating are obviously not correct finishes. At the time of my restorative efforts I chose to have the cover bead blasted with a very fine USED glass bead. It almost had the consistency of flour and the cover was gone over several times until there was an even surface appearance and texture. Satin finish---no gloss or swirl---it looked very much to me like the NOS example you linked above. I then applied GIBBS BRAND OIL to the cover liberally, several times, removing the excess after several minutes so there was no pooling or surface wetness. The GIBBS penetrates into the pores of the metal and (because it is there first) prevents the entry of anything in the way of water, other oils, dirt or combustion soot from adhering or accumulating and its anti-corrosion properties prevent oxidation of the aluminum (white spots or flaking). A simple rinse with Dawn detergent mixed with water over the surface followed by a thorough rinse from the garden hose with clean water, allow to dry, and a re-application of the GIBBS oil has maintained the cover for the last 5 years. Zilver is no "garage queen". The car is frequently driven locally and has been driven from N.W. Arkansas to and back from each of the Zcons attended. (Memphis, Austin, Atlanta and Branson) I don't know of any other way. In agreement with what Charles said above----What would the judges have us to do if not bead blast???? This is not "sour grapes" or meant to be a slam on the judges but----- BE REASONABLE!!!
  13. and make them black while you are at it--------------