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I've had the RT mount for few years and used 3 or 4 diffs over that time. The diff is squashed between the RT mount and the Nissan mount. I have no noises unloading the diff (with any of the diffs) , but on the first diff and the current one I could get the clunk on loading it. The one that had no clunk ever did develop a serious whine and on checking, the pinion is worn. My conclusion is that the clunk in my case is down to the clearance between pinion and crown wheel, and I'm happy to live with a clunk occasionally if It means I'm not killing the diff!

The head doesn’t need to be removed to change the valve stem seals. We covered this before.

I think if I have a brake line leak, I'm replacing the whole thing unless there is obvious external damage

I still get a thud unloading the drivetrain at low rpms in a higher gear . I still dance with the clutch to avoid the thud and I have the sandwich set up . Sometimes I think my r-180 moustache bar is not up to the task of 230 ft pounds and posi tract rear . I’ve about given up trying to figure it out what the noise is . I can drive my car hard and never hear a thud , but under certain circumstances i get a distinct thud . If I cruise around 40 mph in 4th gear and keep the throttle steady and push the clutch pedal in and out , it will thud every time letting the clutch out . That’s releasing the clutch swiftly . Granted - I don’t drive that way - but wonder where all that movement is

The replacement rubber piece is done in black from 240Z Rubber Parts. Less expensive option.

It looked like this when new. Still available from Nissan. $21.47 each

Deleted everything I had here before because it was wrong. Here's a pic from ebay with a pair of those in pretty good shape. I think this is what they looked like at one time. Not sure if they changed the color of the rubbery nugget over the years though.

You could run a new line in areas that you can reach and just leave the old line in place until you remove the transmission for other reasons. An in-the-meantime solution that will fix the leak.

I got my vaccine not only for myself but for my Z friends and everyone else I come into contact with. I want to be part of the solution, not part of the problem. I want to visit with my Z buddies. I want to go to a Zcon and sit with a whole bunch of Jims and not take the risk of giving any of them a potentially deadly illness. And there's a way to make sure I don't. Get my vaccine. I'm all for personal choice as long as it doesn't endanger other people. In other words, if the only person who is put at risk by your personal choice is YOU... Then go for it. But if your choice puts other people at risk that's not cool. You're removing their right to make their own choice by making it for them. "If you're afraid of getting covid, you have a choice... You can choose to stay home." "If you're afraid of getting vaccinated, you have a choice... You can choose to stay home." Here's the difference: If I don't have covid and I go out, I'm not putting anyone else at risk. If I don't have the vaccine and I go out, I AM putting other people at risk.

View Advert Door parts There are several door parts mentioned in this ad. The picture is just one of them. See last line in this add for pricing. I have door catches with shims that go above the main photo part. Window cranks. Door handles, inside and outside (picture of outside door handle makes unit look much worse then it is). Door panels, in good condition. Door window parts . Door locks, sorry no keys. Door lock pull knobs. Hatch hinges, hinge catches and the stops. Hatch strut mounts. Series 1 hatch vent parts. Prices; depending on the item. Contact me I will give you a price for the items you need. All prices quoted do not include shipping. Advertiser Ed Brock Date 05/07/2021 Price $10.00 Category Parts for Sale

It was many years ago that I used a Precision weatherstrip kit on my Z . I remember how the door seals just didn"t work. You had to slam the doors and they didn't want to break in . I eventually went with Kia door seals , but they discontinued them. I thought that I had read more recently that their design had changed and folks were having good luck with them. Well I just received a full kit and the door seals still suck. Same deal-doors have to be slammed against the hard rubber . I just ordered the spendy Vintage rubber set -hope I'm not disappointed again.

If he has an dark plug at #4 have the plug wires been swapped around as a test. Loose fitting wire caps could be an issue with a lot easier fix. Just saying but I'm sure I'll get flogged.

You may have seen my post on the other thread with my homemade Mount - I too can get that thud if pressing on hard and changing up at peak torque. The issue as far as I can see is simply that the mount / arrester is storing the energy and giving it back to the diff when you come off the power. This causes the diff mount insulator to connect with itself. Top part joined to the diff connects with the bottom part joined to the cross member. I haven’t made a permanent fix for it yet, but I found that adding a bit of rubber between the diff mount insulator’s top and bottom parts makes it stop! I will probably modify a compression rod bush for this duty as they too are designed to take a lot of squashing!! If you had to use a jack to squash it, then I would be pretty sure that is your problem! Imho you definitely need a gap between the snubber and the diff.

And no, it’s “ridiculous” :p

The head doesn't have to be removed to change the valve seals. You can do it.

@madkaw do your doors still have that rubber that’s supposed to be on the the cam that latches to the body? it might be unrelated to the issue you have at hand, but I wonder if that is also preventing it from closing with enough force to compress the material down. just for a note if you have to change the seal, I used: 1120A333 Water- & Weather-Rst Rubber Push-on Seal with Bulb on Side, Hollow, for 3/16" Edge, 5/8" High, 25 ft. Length from MCMaster-Karr.

I would. At least contact 240zrubberparts and see if he can make a set for you. He lists "Out of stock" a lot, but will make things if requested. They hold the spring in place and act as a stopper for the white plastic slide piece. The little feet on the sides hold them in and often break off. Used ones like CO's eBay set would also be a way to go. I might even have an extra set.

Hihi.. yeah.... But Dutch is in a simular way.. I remember that i used to say jam.. (Say J-A-M.. at once.. J without your D!) we say sjem.. you say djam (like the strawberry-JAM.. ) but i got corrected in time, i was about 8-9 years old then haha..

I am pretty sure that is correct. These and the piece on the hatch itself are both clear zinc. I see some people yellow them as well as a lot of other parts that should be clear.

Your new door seals didn't "relax" after hot days and being compressed? Mine took only a few days after installation and leaving the car sitting in the sun before they allowed the doors to close normally. Maybe the 115º temps here at the time helped the process. Regardless, they quickly conformed.

Another opinion? "Ewwwwww!"

It was white in the beginning I believe...

Perhaps it would be good to stay with a Japanese theme, to go with the Z-cars?

Thank you, I will look into them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Planning on doing timing right after I finish installing radiator, I also need a timing gun for that which i don’t have sadly. Thank you for advice I will definitely look into valve lash adjustment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had not... but anything is possible! I would like a hat with the same logo in black and chrome with the silver thread... The rising sun image I used is the one from my hood design (which I paid copyright to use) I do not have permission to use it for other advertising, so that's why I would like to do a line art version of my own in black and chrome...

I think the classic styles should be considered. 3

ROFLMAO!!! We are having internet issues with Virgin today so strange things are happening here. I was editing it to correct spellings and add the bit about the diff arrester. Hidden it now. It's Ali - as in Prince Aliiiiiiii, handsome is heeeee, Ali of Abwa!

Both the window net and the air scoop from that BSR 280 CP race car now reside on my 240Z race car. Neither make me as fast or as good looking as PLN.

One I’ve never seen of PLN...

Maybe my eyes are getting old but this looks awfully video-gamey to me 😉 They're pretty realistic these days: https://www.bsimracing.com/raceroom-nissan-300zx-gto-and-mustang-imsa-gto-previews/