Ed Brock

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About Ed Brock

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Oak Gove, Pregon
  • Occupation
    Brock Industrial, Inc.

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  • Zcars Owned

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  1. Hi folks, Somewhere on this site I saw some metric bolt specs. Giving the numbers on the bolts, what those numbers mean, tensile strength, etc. Now I can't find it. It was the most complete bolt spec I have seen. Does anyone have that information? would you mind shareing it? Thanks Ed
  2. zclocks, Do you repair 240 clocks? Approximant charge? I know it depends on what you have to fix. Ed
  3. Not all the fuel senders are as easy to get to as yours. This car an early 71 series has the sending unit assess at the front of the tank (towards the front of the car). It is easy to get at, just not as easy as yours. Thanks Ed

    • WANTED
    • NEW

    In need of 6 each 40 F9 idle jets for Weber 40 Series 151's. Or a drill bit to clean out the passages on mine.


    - US

  5. View Advert Idle jets wanted In need of 6 each 40 F9 idle jets for Weber 40 Series 151's. Or a drill bit to clean out the passages on mine. Advertiser Ed Brock Date 05/07/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240Z  
  6. Thanks, I reread my post and discovered a typo. When I was saying empty was 0, I missed the 9. (should have written 90 not 0). Opps. Thanks for the refresher. Nice drawing however. Where did you find that picture? Ed
  7. Early '71 240. I am trying to find out the ohms reading for the fuel sending unit to fuel gauge. We have installed a AutoMeter Ultra Lite gauge that reads 0-73 ohms. Part of the problem is the person at Auto Meter states that 0 is empty and 73 is full. Then, I spoke with some one else at Auto Meter (for a different matter) and they say they own a 240, and the sending unit is 0-90 ohms but the gauge we installed is a 90-0 ohms. What is the ohm's on the 240 fuel sending unit? Which is the empty reading (should be 0 I believe). Thanks Ed
  8. Now now. Remember, I'm an OLD DINOSOUR. Tell me have to post (in detail) on this site and I will. Customer would like the feed back (so would our shop). I know how to send on Gmail, but that is my limit. We have LOTS of pictures of this build, I'll only use a few however. Ed
  9. Your white Z looks a lot like the Z we started working on 3 years ago. Only you have a rear hatch installed, ours was only a rolling chassis. This car also has the Rota wheels in dark gray and 16". Nice wheels, no mileage on them also, but they are about 4-5 years old. Holding up nicely in the shop. Ed
  10. A big THANK YOU to all how have helped get this issue resolved. What was the problem? Well, we goofed when cleaning the rear quarter panel wiring harness connecters (never removed from the car when it went to the paint shop). We never checked ohms on the defroster wires. Should have. That would have solved the problem. As for the problem, it was a disconnected/broken wire some where inside the quarter panel wiring harness. We ran a new wire from the 6 pin Molex connector to the kick panel area, from the firewall up to the rear defroster wire and connected it to the rear window. That SIMPLE job, required removing the passenger kick panel, seat, door sill kick plate and passenger rear quarter panel cover. Then fishing a wire under the carpet and out the hole in the carpet where the wires enter into the rear quarter panel. Then up the quarter panel and out the roof opening. EASY right? NO!!! The owner did have the car's FSM. He found them and we found some answers to my questions. Combined with information from 7tooZ and 240260280 as well as others, I have all of my questions answered. One of my questions was, does the rear defogger wires get all of the 12volts? The answer on THIS car (a early '71 model without a rear defroster relay) is no. It is reduced down to 6volts. How it is reduced is not mentioned. So, we added a resister (hiding it was easy) that drops the volts down to 6 volts. Plus a lot of testing as things progressed, just to make sure no problems developed in that dam wiring. Now, when you activate the rear defroster switch, you have power to the rear defroster. Also, if you scroll up to 7tooZ's pictures of the red/black wire combined with a black wire is for the "step light". Hope that helps some of you. Now, we are just waiting on the jets and the plastic pins that hold the rear quarter panel trim and the overhead light panel trim in place. Then we can finish the car, Hopefully in time, on his B. Day in about 2 weeks. Thank you again for all of your help. Ed
  11. Hi, I'm new to this site. I'm very impressed with the knowledge on this site. My question is about the rear window defroster on a EARLY '71 240. This car does not have a defroster relay. Does the rear window defroster wires get a full 12v? Is it resisted down and if it is what is the voltage at the wires? 7tooZ has supplied me with great information and thought I should ask the members. I just have this one question left so I can finish this job. Thanks Ed
  12. Thanks will do. Have fun on your cruse in. Ed
  13. Thank you. Your picture is the same as what I am talking about. I figured it had to be for the step light today. Only thing that made any since. I found the problem with the rear defroster (finally). The wire has been disconnected from the right side rear loom. In my research I found where that wire has a bullet connection on it as it connects to the rest of the rear loom (thank you spare wiring loom) as it goes through to the inside body panel. That wire is no-longer connected to any part of the car! I'm not sure which red/black wire in the loom is the rear defroster wire. If I wanted to undo all of the rear lighting wires I could easily find it. Not worth the time to do that. What we did was fish a new wire through the body and connected it to the rear defroster wire. Naturally we used the correct wire coding. Now the only thing left to is connect the new wire to the 6 pin Molex connector and put the car back together. That issue solved. What a pain, that's what we get for not checking the continuity of that one wire. Over all, not bad as that one has been the only bad wriing issue we have had in all of the changes to this car. One more question, Oh 240 knowledgeable one. Is the rear defroster receiving full 12v's or does it have a inline resister? I have read some do, some don't. Not really clear sort of like the relays to the rear defroster's for these cars. Thanks again for your time and knowledge. Ed
  14. Good Morning, nice to see another early morning raiser. You are so correct again. There are 2 three Molex connectors by the climate controller. Both do what you say they do. I made sure that the correct 3 pin Molex is connected to the proper item, Question for you, have you seen in your car or anyone's car a red/black wire joined by the factory to a black wire? This connection is a female spade with the factory clear plastic cover on it. The wire is located by the passenger's kick panel. I believe it is used more of a grounding wire then a power distributing wire. What is the best way to ID these cars? I'm a Chrysler guy at heart, those I know. Great job getting your camera up inside the dash to get a picture. Ed
  15. The center light in the fuse box cover lid I mentioned is the seat belt light. The 3 pin connector from the rear defroster switch (we changed that connector from a male to a female as the original harness had a male connector on it already. The connector changes the green/red wire to a blue/white wire, that wire goes into a 6 pin connector. That 6 pin connector is where the heater motor gets it power from. Ed