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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. I doubt a seal would stick a valve under running conditions . Does sound like the oil burn is a valve seal though. This is a problem I’m having now is finding the source of oil. Like you said , a leak down test won’t help find it.
  2. There’s no specific numbers I can brag on , but there’s no contest , especially if you want to run a performance cam or performance engine . I run 45 degrees at cruise and can idle at 18 degrees . You can’t hardly get a dizzy to do that since the vacuum advance is linked to the total advance . Cam sensor really helps for smoother idle and getting that last % of precision from EFI .
  3. I would argue the statement of probably not better power . Timing control is a big part of these motors . To have full control of timing in any load situation is a far and above the compromise of a dizzy - however it might be recurved . I think it’s safe to say power improvements are about guaranteed . Cam sensor is nice , but not necessary . I’ve run years without it .
  4. Well you’ll need a way to control the spark - ECU . Then you need a way to tell the ECU crank position . Then you can do what you want . The options are many .
  5. With 3.90 gears I drive around town in third gear with my TEP lightened flywheel . That was with a 2.4 with a 490 cam. If your engine is strong with those gears you will be fine.
  6. I realized after rereading the thread that this is an untouched used bottom end - so your numbers are healthy for sure . I would be happy with the vacuum readings for sure . I have a 54 block with 110k miles that I need to put a head on . I don’t plan on touching it either since the bores look perfect .
  7. I forgot to add that the other good thing was my cable linkage has been flawless so far - but I probably jinxed myself now -lol
  8. It’s a bit contradictory that you have that high of vacuum numbers but 12% loss on leak down? My engine runs 10 at idle but only 3-5% leak down per cylinder . Plugs don’t look terrible, maybe still burning of residual oil?
  9. Not yet . Put everything back together and drove it and she ran good . Got back home and noticed a puddle of oil under the car after parking . I caught the oil pan seal putting the cover on and tore it. So off with the oil pan . Today I drove around and noticed the engine wasn’t building temp. I could hear the fan still turning hard when the engine was cold. Checked to find my clutch fan had gone bad. I’ve had this a long time so I can’t complain too bad - but damn it! i ordered a new clutch. Currently the engine struggles to get to 170. It has always ran right up to 180 and stayed . Temps dropped around here but I think the stuck fan is prolonging warm period to the point that it’s showing on the plugs - but there’s more. THEN I drove it some more to find my brakes were weak. Checked out my vacuum was low - why? Eventually found PCV elbow was torn around the clamp . Now troubleshooting some dirty plugs on 5&6. Thought the worst - HG- but engine leak down test, coolant pressure test, vacuum test are all good. So at least the long block is sound . Power is great, but could be better . Last time I had the mysterious miss it was my fairly new plug wires were bleeding over to each other . This seems similar , but not a dead miss, just carboned plugs . I think I knee jerk reacted to the last issue and went too cold on my plugs. I have 8’s in there now to compensate( at least I thought) for the increased CR. I am putting 7’s back in for now and maybe I’ll find my way back to 6’s yet. I’ll run the 7’s and see if that makes a difference . Good things? The new CV axles are great. My clutch MC fix transformed the shifting experience of the car . It lightened the pedal pressure by 25%.
  10. I just picked up some 1k resistors . My circuit is not set up correctly from what I read . It needs a pull up resistor and the pots adjusted before I can try mine . Waiting on a knock sensor kit before I break into the “box” to do that .
  11. Question regarding the cam sensor . Since my pigtail came as a kit I had no ID on colors and thus no idea on pin out. Have you got yours working or do you know the pin out for the 3 wires? thanks
  12. I believe Chrysler is the closet match . What was the final word on the head? Sounds like it needs to resurfaced . Some warpage and corrosion could lead to seal issues. He shouldn’t take enough to affect anything including timing chain .
  13. I thought MSA was selling an updated version. Better than the old Precision type , but not sure on this .
  14. I would drain coolant , and use a drill bit or mini file to clean hole and rough insides of hole if you can. Blow it out good and follow instructions with JB. Drilling and tapping would work , but maybe feel more comfortable not drilling . You won’t know if you drill into a completely open cavity or partial which would make tapping a little harder. There’s not much pressure there so some kind of epoxy would work. Also heat wouldn’t be bad since it’s a coolant passage . Just my thoughts
  15. Well this build is testing my endurance . Got it up and running and noticed coolant coming out the alternator bracket bolt . Tore it back down to find a failed -new- gasket . Material was thin around that particular hole and I guess it wouldn’t hold. First time for that 😡 Good news is the motor sounded nasty! My neighbors got to hear open headers for a minute - 😝
  16. Back in the hole. Worked on getting my cable throttle hooked up. Pretty stoked the way it came out , pretty much invisible! So glad to be done with the linkage . I went all the way to the pedal too. Feels silky smooth. Now I can completely shave the intake if I want .
  17. Ideally yes . It also seems odd to me and I am going to re trace my steps again tomorrow . As I said I have quite a bit shaved off the head and .005 off the block , so that would add slack. Even knowing that I still scratch my head a little. I even have the shiny links to reference and I also counted pins .
  18. About a day away from MN/47 part 2. Just finished adjusted chain guides and tensioner to take up some slack! I gained about an 1/8” or so on the chain tensioner which meant the plunger wouldn’t be hanging out as far. I probably have about .030 removed from the total distance , so the slack was real. It actually seemed more prevalent then my L24 set up where I had as much as .050 removed. This time around I’m installing my newly acquired G- Force T-5 . It has a McLeod hydraulic TOB , we will see how that works . Also bought these sweet CV axles from Datsun Garage. Very nice pieces . This might be a whole new driving experience 😎
  19. Budget in another 10$ per rod for sizing. You need to resize the rid big ends if replacing with ARP. Cutting the head face is a straight forward process. It’s not risky , anymore risky than not resizing rod bolts or installing valve guides. Head needs to be perfectly flat and a fresh finish also helps guarantee a good seal with the HG. MY 2 cents .
  20. Might want to be sure what you intend to do with the motor since he’s going to shave it. Want to raise the CR more than just a .005 cut? Now is the time . It wouldn’t cost anymore to take .020 off than .005 Not even sure what I’m looking at with those seats . So that raised portion is actually part of the seat? WTF! Head looks pretty clean other than that.
  21. So here’s what I did . I guess I slept since then and couldn’t remember , but easy to see with an empty bay. Looks like I used the original supply line as my return since I ran a new 3/8” supply. A 1/4” line would be quite a bit bigger and would probably work.
  22. It goes to the vent box in the rear quarter . You should have 3 lines running along each other under the car .