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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. If you are trying to find a coolant leak in the timing cover you need to pressurize the system. Go to Oriellys or Autozone and rent a coolant pressure tester . Put 15lbs on there or so and take the valve cover and listen. It will hiss if it’s pissing coolant . You might even be able to see it will a flashlight looking down the chain .
  2. Impressive for sure . I bet that ride is a rocket!
  3. I mounted my MS3 on the trans tunnel on passenger side . Since I decided to run my harness thru the AC holes I figured I would keep the ECU closer to that . Not sure there is a right or wrong for location- it depends on the owners set up.
  4. I used my AC holes since I don’t have AC. Where are you mounting the ECU? I split up my harness running my sensor wires out the opposite side of the engine using the choke hole.
  5. Even running Rotella for a long time now . Drive my car hard ! Cam looks new every time I look at it
  6. It will be tight, but you don’t need a lot of room for the connectors. My set up didn’t give a lot of room for the connectors either. In fact, you learn that there’s not a lot of room for this whole project and you wind up doing three versions before something works right. I must say I am really digging this because of the use of the smart coils and the clean look of these R35 coils compared to my D-585.
  7. Damn- id have my 10mm working overtime
  8. Sweet! They look better than my d585’s
  9. Sorry , but trying to follow too many threads , but are you running a Haltech? Shouldnt you refer to their manual as far as wiring ? There might be a method of wiring it for sequential but firing it wasted spark. This way if you get a cam sensor it’s just a software update and not rewiring issue
  10. Really didn’t state it as unreliable , I meant to say that a flywheel reading would be more accurate . The 123 is relying on a shaft driven off a gear that would have some lash or play. Under load might help mitigate slop, but how often do you drive under constant load ? We are probably splitting hairs at this point , but maybe a degree or two might mean the difference of detonation or not under full load.
  11. Could t agree more with the flywheel being used. Like said above , a CAS alone will run your motor just fine .
  12. Nice work . Too much sloppy from that oil shaft for a good CAS, but at least you made good use of it for the cam sensor. Pretty engine compartment - neat and tidy is the way I like it
  13. My point is you don’t have to remove the valve cover to find TDC compression stroke.
  14. Pretty sure you will need an additional sensor for sequential . That one wheel can’t do it all . Maybe you misunderstood them. Still- I’m only running wasted spark and it’s still light years ahead of a dizzy
  15. Fancy! Beware condensation in the MAP sensor line will roll down hill right into the ecu and kill the sensor . I had to go external . Unless you can use a newer style that uses no hose to the ecu
  16. You have a link to this product - I can’t find it . I thought 60-2 wheel is just another version of a 36-1 wheel. I thought two separate sensors were needed or two separate wheels to run sequential
  17. The wheel is for a crank sensor , Im not sure how it works for a cam sensor .
  18. Yeah- stalled and he kept the parts folks let him borrow to make this work - real nice.
  19. How does the wheel support the cam sensor?
  20. TDC COMPRESSION STROKE!!!!!! Pull #1 plug and shove a vacuum plug that just fits the hole in there. Turn over motor till that sucker shoots across the room- you found compression stroke . Now line everything up
  21. It has been fun for me to play with all the numbers . With complete control you can run a ton of advance and run the motor lean without worrying . Cruise at 16AFR and 45 degrees all day . The beauty of having a well engineered mechanical platform and modern technology to run it
  22. Haltech should be great. What MAP sensor are you going to run and where are you installing it?
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