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gnosez

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gnosez last won the day on November 26 2017

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About gnosez

  • Rank
    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L

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  • Map Location
    MA
  • Occupation
    environmental scientist

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    240Z 3.2L

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  • Website
    http://www.baddogparts.com

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  1. The best way but not one available to everyone is to put the car on scales, the ones used to corner balance the car and tighten until you see a difference in weight shifting from one side to the other. One starts corner balancing with the sway bars disconnected,
  2. Some of that is Wilwood comp pads and the other and primary source is the left LCA (just) touching the rotor under heavy braking. I moved the LCA pivot points to reduce bumpsteer so take a look again and see how little I need to saw the steering wheel back and forth. LCA has had a visit with the grinder (again) but it can't be tested until I get to The Glen next week.
  3. SCCA-NER/HRG at Thompson (all comers vintage race). Chasing a very nice 280Z part3thompson.MP4
  4. I have a FG hood from the early 70s that has the same workmanship. I need to go look at more closely after seeing this pictures.
  5. I agree with the blue (as opposed) to the red lock-tite. Belmetric is my go-to place but then they're located 15 minutes from my house. Great people.
  6. I have used the jack and wrench/vise grip trick a few times but mostly on the fill plug for the tranny. I once had the car start to lift off the jack stands the plug was so tight. Heat was the solution.
  7. A 1 inch piece of flat stock about 10 inches long with a 1/2 inch bar stock piece welded to the end. The I/2 piece was measured to allow it to just fit between the mustache bar and the diff for a normal cover. You can also just weld the short piece of 1/2 bar stock to 10 inches of 1/2 stock. The extra capacity cover has a side filler and is somewhat easier to get at with a 1/2 inch extension.
  8. I'm not a fan of sending dirty air from the engine back into the engine so consider a knockout catch can with a drain valve.
  9. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=%2fCyyKzce&id=D6DF55F4D0DE0A24FF9C5ADF54D5414B597764CE&thid=OIP._CyyKzcev0tcEueNbDozmQHaE7&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.conceptcarz.com%2fimages%2fDatsun%2f70-Datsun-240Z_DV_10-WG_06.jpg&exph=681&expw=1024&q=bob+sharp+racing+images&simid=607987100539618427&ck=B4108861B6E062FA12492BE08D672707&selectedIndex=96&ajaxhist=0 Same car with different flares and wheels?
  10. https://www.billstoler.com/#/gallery/2019-watkins-glen-vrg-event/wg2019-8881-ca247/ This is John Willey's very clean and well prepared 280Z. I ran against him and he is a very good driver.
  11. Whether it's at the track, prepping for the next race or at the end of the year, there's always at least one nut or bolt that was loose that would have made for a very bad day. The number of wire-tied, double nutted and new nuts and bolts increases every year. Every bolt/nut has a paint mark to verify it was torqued and a similar reference mark to show if it moved. The plug wires are individually zip tied to the distributor cap and the dipstick has a spring to keep it in place. Everyone of these things came loose at one point. Peace of mind.....
  12. I found a better picture. We bolted it in and backed up the metal inside the cowl area. On a separate note, once we added the bracing similar to ones used in the GTU car we had to come up with a way for the wiper arm to work since it's path was blocked by the tube connecting the driver's side strut tower and the upright tube in from of the shifter which ties into the cross=member under the dash. That side is higher to allow clearance for the carbs. We cut the lower wiper arm and fabbed an upside down "U" which was bolted in. It's hard to get a good picture but i think you're get the idea.
  13. Here's the one we have used for several years on the race car. This winter we expanded our bracing but will include the tower-to-tower piece.
  14. Just click on my name and it should take you to me. There's a private message button. Either day is fine.
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