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gnosez last won the day on November 26 2017

gnosez had the most liked content!

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About gnosez

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    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L

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    environmental scientist

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    240Z 3.2L

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  1. A similar opening can be found on the race cars that run in the NASCAR series. They even have detachable covers to increase/decrease the opening. Much less drag. We ran the MSA type2 front spoiler for a few years with everything blocked off except for a 14 X 5 inch opening. We constructed a shroud that expanded as it got to the radiator. Once we moved in vintage racing, off it came (not period correct) so we are running with the mouth of a basking shark.
  2. gnosez

    the rear end clunk

    That loose hose looks to be just the end of what was likely connected to another hose that goes to the overflow outlet on the driver's side of the tank. Get it reconnected before driving the car again.
  3. gnosez

    the rear end clunk

    Normal for a stock R180 that came with the car and a 4-spd. A 3:90 ratio with a 5-spd would run around 3000@80mph if you happen to drive over the posted speed limit that is.
  4. gnosez

    Lightweight Flywheels

    I have had the Arizona Z Car 12 pound flywheel in my street and race 240Zs for more than 10 years and love it.
  5. Sitting in my garage after they decided to put on different wheels on the 280ZXTT. Has the BBS fan blade wheel covers to aid in cooling the brakes.
  6. Either it's an actual race car that was entered and ran in a sanctioned event or it isn't (no log book). If the latter is the case then it means it isn't a vintage race car and my comment about the two in the back (BRE 510 and BSR 240/280/GT2) being the only real vintage race car is correct.
  7. You misunderstand my post. While that sports car in the foreground is not a race car the two vehicles behind it are in fact historic race cars, so the photo does belong in this thread.
  8. Conedodger - you're wrong regarding that picture you labeled as "not a race car" (it is very nice however). It's the two historic race cars behind that interesting blue Nissan - the BRE 510 and the BSR #33 240Z (the second 240 not the preproduction Z). Lumens - I agree that orange Z is very well put together but I'm not keen on anything other that water (drinking or cool suit related) in the cockpit of a race car.
  9. gnosez

    Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    This is what was done on the L-series race engines built by BSR. The radiator was tapped to run to the "T" fitting welded on the thermostat housing which was plumbed to an expansion tank which then had a line to an overflow bottle. The expansion tank has the pressure cap. The radiator tap, the thermostat T and the expansion tank are all positioned as high up as possible. I doubt you want to ruin your Z with these modifications and I show it only to illustrate how some folks tried to keep these engine from overheating.
  10. gnosez

    Metal Throttle linkage Ball Joints?

    Just my $.02 worth of wisdom regarding these ball sockets - keep them greased.
  11. gnosez

    Sway bars

    If you do decide to use the ST sway bars, you're absolutely correct on needing to off-set the bar about 3/8- 1/2 inch back using a spacer. I have had one on my 240 street car for more than 12 years and it as had those spacers installed from the beginning. I should be coming down for ZCON/Atlanta and hope to see you and your Z there.
  12. gnosez

    Sway bars

    The real question is how do you intent to drive your car? A rear sway bar is a great addition to a street car and larger fronts or rears will reduce body roll. Some of us racing Zs don't run rear bars and have larger fronts. As to a larger front bar causing some inner engine bay metal to detach from the engine bay frame rail, that will happen if you run the car hard and with sticky tires. It's why I added reinforcement plates. Remember that sway bars are just one part of your entire suspension set-up (shocks, bushings, springs, alignment, corner balancing, wheels, tires and tire pressure). Just adding a bar, front or rear will change how your car handles but in which direction is unknown unless you tell us more about your set-up. And how you attach the end links can alter the set-up (too tight on one side, over tight on both sides, too loose, etc.). Scales will tell you when you have it right.
  13. When I suggested slotting the tops I had in mind that one would weld in the plates once one had enough money to do so. You would need some form of camber bushings (front and rear) to make that work but those are cheap as opposed to a full suspension upgrade. We ran -3 degrees using this method before welding in TTT plates and adjustable control arms. Granted this was a race car and overall looks were not important. Those done by Mark are very, very pretty. Nice work.
  14. Coil-overs and then just slot the existing strut tower mounts if you want to save money. You can always add camber plates later. Driving around with more than 2 degrees of front negative camber may not be to your liking. It requires your full attention and both hands on the wheel.
  15. I would be happy to buy those Mikunis

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