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gnosez

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gnosez last won the day on November 26 2017

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About gnosez

  • Rank
    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L

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  • Website
    http://www.baddogparts.com

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  • Map Location
    MA
  • Occupation
    environmental scientist

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About My Cars
    240Z 3.2L

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  1. gnosez

    Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    This is what was done on the L-series race engines built by BSR. The radiator was tapped to run to the "T" fitting welded on the thermostat housing which was plumbed to an expansion tank which then had a line to an overflow bottle. The expansion tank has the pressure cap. The radiator tap, the thermostat T and the expansion tank are all positioned as high up as possible. I doubt you want to ruin your Z with these modifications and I show it only to illustrate how some folks tried to keep these engine from overheating.
  2. gnosez

    Metal Throttle linkage Ball Joints?

    Just my $.02 worth of wisdom regarding these ball sockets - keep them greased.
  3. gnosez

    Sway bars

    If you do decide to use the ST sway bars, you're absolutely correct on needing to off-set the bar about 3/8- 1/2 inch back using a spacer. I have had one on my 240 street car for more than 12 years and it as had those spacers installed from the beginning. I should be coming down for ZCON/Atlanta and hope to see you and your Z there.
  4. gnosez

    Sway bars

    The real question is how do you intent to drive your car? A rear sway bar is a great addition to a street car and larger fronts or rears will reduce body roll. Some of us racing Zs don't run rear bars and have larger fronts. As to a larger front bar causing some inner engine bay metal to detach from the engine bay frame rail, that will happen if you run the car hard and with sticky tires. It's why I added reinforcement plates. Remember that sway bars are just one part of your entire suspension set-up (shocks, bushings, springs, alignment, corner balancing, wheels, tires and tire pressure). Just adding a bar, front or rear will change how your car handles but in which direction is unknown unless you tell us more about your set-up. And how you attach the end links can alter the set-up (too tight on one side, over tight on both sides, too loose, etc.). Scales will tell you when you have it right.
  5. When I suggested slotting the tops I had in mind that one would weld in the plates once one had enough money to do so. You would need some form of camber bushings (front and rear) to make that work but those are cheap as opposed to a full suspension upgrade. We ran -3 degrees using this method before welding in TTT plates and adjustable control arms. Granted this was a race car and overall looks were not important. Those done by Mark are very, very pretty. Nice work.
  6. Coil-overs and then just slot the existing strut tower mounts if you want to save money. You can always add camber plates later. Driving around with more than 2 degrees of front negative camber may not be to your liking. It requires your full attention and both hands on the wheel.
  7. I would be happy to buy those Mikunis
  8. gnosez

    S30 Frame Construction

    We make and sell the following parts: 240/early 260 frame rails - these start 9 inches in front of the firewall and end were the OEM version does. It covers about 2/3 of the TC rod box and are made from 13 gauge steel. Sold as single or as a set. Can be used as a complete replacement or a slip over to existing rails. 240 optional rear rails - a personal design piece that was never offered. It connects the under seat rails with the rear of the car. Sold only as a set. A stock rear sway bar will not fit but a Suspension Tech will 280/late 260 rails - made to match the contours of the 280 floor pan. Sold as a pair or a single rail. Same thickness as the 240 rails. These will not fit aftermarket 280 floor pans which are flat. Our 240 rails can be used. Sway bar plates - used to keep the engine bay rails and fenders from separating under high stress when a larger than stock sway bar is used. Single point jack plates - used if you want to change both tires on a side using only one jack point. 240/early 260 seat brackets - replacement mounts sold by side
  9. gnosez

    Quest for More Power

    Reduce the weight of your Z and get the feel of added HP.......
  10. gnosez

    S30 Frame Construction

    Factory replacement rails were sold as a one piece item, starting at the radiator support and ending behind the seat mounts. I have one side which was used to develop our 240 rails.
  11. gnosez

    Difficult time fitting swaybar end links

    Assuming you get the sway bar bushing end bolt to fit, remember that you now have lots of suspension setting options (ride height, toe, camber, caster) you didn't have with the stock set-up. You should include corner balancing to your checklist and don't forget to loosen the end links and then once you're happy with the balance and while the car is still on the scales, tighten the an end link until you see a weight transfer. Back off until it returns to whatever it was before and repeat for the other side.
  12. gnosez

    OER dripping fuel inside barrels

    What filter(s) are you running? A large (100um) from the tank to the pump and a small (less than 10 um) to the carbs? Float needles get stuck. I have been adding Marvel oil to each fuel jug after the middle carb float stuck closed causing a lean and expensive incident. No issues since.
  13. gnosez

    5-sp Tranny Detents

    Thanks for great picture! Perfect. My issue was similar. It would pop out of third when I lifted to brake at 7400rpm. My planned solution - put a ball bearing on top of the spring and use washers to position the bolt. Too much tension and you can't get it in gear. Too little and it pops out. A Goldilocks situation.....
  14. gnosez

    5-sp Tranny Detents

    I am aware of three detents on the sandwich plate. Two on the driver's and one on the top right. Can someone tell me which one is for 3rd gear? The top right one seems to be 1st and second.
  15. Rebello uses N42 heads on his high performance and race engines so, yes, $70 is a good price. Grab things that are still in good shape - glass, trim (in and out), wheels, electrical items, any body parts like fenders or headlight buckets, etc.
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