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gnosez last won the day on November 26 2017

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About gnosez

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    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L

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    environmental scientist

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    240Z 3.2L

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  1. The answer was simple (35 divided by 8 = 4.375) Ring - 35 and Pinion - 8 It will serve as the back-up to the R180 Giken 4:38. Thanks for your suggestions and inputs. I was hoping for something really rare but another 4:38 (not in a "K" case) is great. Been brain dead for the past few days after working on a new project.
  2. I have looked all over that ring gear and have diffs from 3:34 to 5:38 (hill climb or stump puller). Those are the only markings.
  3. I would but what car did it come in?
  4. I opened a diff I just got with a lot of parts and it has the following stamped markings on the ring gear: 35 X A C 5 - 11 Anyone have a clue as to the ratio?
  5. Might I suggest that the outer tie rod be inverted as in the picture it is upside down.
  6. Based on the wide flares this is a GTU car that wasn't running slicks (dries) but rather what appear to be rain tires (wets). There wasn't a wide (15 inch rim) rain tire I believe available back then. Of course they could have removed the slicks and left the car sitting on the wets for some reason.
  7. That pan has internal baffles allowing oil to be sucked up into the engine even when the car is traversing a hard corner. I have had one in my street and race car for over 15 years. My dad ruined a nearly new Cadillac engine attempting to get a glider airborne - race down the runway, not fast enough, hard left turn, fast down the runway, over and over again. The dealer says he never had an engine fail so quickly after purchase.
  8. So the ATI dampener requires a crank bolt longer than stock so off to Bel-Metric I go to get a 16 x 1.5 x 50mm Grade 10.9 bolt. We used a similar bolt on the last race engine without issue. Now I'm waiting on some very short valve seals. The stock ones would have been hit due to a very aggressive cam.
  9. It will be going back as soon as I have some free time. The concept that you need to some how keep it from rusting is nuts. Bare metal that is exposed to the elements with no thought on some form of protection. I sprayed it with oil before and after running in the wet.
  10. The first photo is of the internal scoring on the dampener. There was no marks on the snout of the crankshaft and the machine shop was of the opinion that the damage was caused during the installation process. The second shows how a three day race in the pouring rain can result in some serious surface rust.
  11. I had an ATI dampener on last year's race engine and we had no issues. This year's engine is a rebuild using parts from an earlier race engine. That engine had a BJH dampener which if not kept oiled begins to rust pretty quickly. Inspection of the crank months ago revealed no damage or scoring. Today I got a call telling me that the inside of the dampener was damaged. I will post a picture tomorrow once I get a chance to go see it. An ATI is on the way. We did not install the BJH so I'm unsure why.
  12. Smitty - even with my bondo and spot putty dust covered glasses I have no idea why I should even think that the 280 shown was Flagg's 260 2+2 salt flats car. Too many hours getting the car ready and still I'm a good three weeks behind. Are you running that car (CP, GTU, GT2) and if so with what organization?
  13. I stand corrected. After getting back home from working on my Z and switching glasses, I looked at the photos and I saw similar but slightly different angles. Not the #33 car.
  14. Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil. Let sit for a day or two. Add more to the spots that aren't shiny. Wipe off. Coming up on 47 years.
  15. The above photo is of Andy Flagg's record setter and those B & W photos are of the #33 GTU BSR shell. They were on a roll of undeveloped 35mm film that was part of the trailer full of BSR parts we purchased several years ago.