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Just had to run an errand for Mom. I panicked because I've not made a decent mask. I did however come up with something I'm pretty sure everyone has. I have a drawer full from reckless lifestyle. ACE bandages! I had a couple that were 6" wide, knee surgery. Wrapped one from below my eyes down to cover my chin. Worked great!

This worked in the last plague, much more stylish than a wash cloth.

Went for a walk today with the kiddies - this is our busiest motorway in the UK that is aptly named as London’s 8 lane orbital car park on any day and has constant traffic 24/7. It seems people are heading the government’s advice!! Very surreal - it’s like one of those apocalyptic movies where the population of the earth has been deleted!

Gents, I have friends on the inside that works on the Armed Services Committee. This came from the top. Moldy and Esper are just political hacks who want to keep their jobs. I also know Brett very well. He’s not stupid or unaware of proper protocols. We don’t let guys command nuclear Aircraft Carriers that don’t understand the Chain of Command. I’ve worked by Brett for over a year in the desk next to his. We’ve flow together, him in a Hornet me in a Harrier. I know this guy. We’ve smoked cigars and drank beers together. I can promise you this was done by him because the leadership above him wasn’t doing anything and he finally realized his men were at grave risk and fell on his sword to save them. He’s a true man of honor. You can support him by signing this petition. BTW, he just tested positive for COVID-19. https://www.change.org/p/usn-istandwithcaptcrozier-captcrozier-cvn71-reinstate-captain-crozier-as-commanding-officer?cs_tk=Aj7Q-dz5-fPTPx3BjF4AAXicyyvNyQEABF8BvBRuGaEZU5VbBOJfH1FFNJY%3D&utm_campaign=3a738dd5a7b04391b0d3a182df638f31&utm_content=initial_v0_0_1&utm_medium=email&utm_source=recruit_sign_digest&utm_term=cs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Using the attachments for my vernier calipers I measured 1.09mm thk for the rear 1/4's and 1.13mm thk for the front fenders (including paint). Obviously the measurements will vary where taken due to thinning of the metal where it is stretched during the pressing process. Just thought it was a good chance to try out my seldom used attachments.

If the tires have a wider wheel base their arc will be greater. The arc of the turn can also affect what the wheel hits. You could always "cheat" your T/C, Take the inner sleeve out and cut a half inch off. Put it back together and adjust to. Might get you there. Anyway, the reality is your new tires rub. And, tires can have the same specs and still have a different shape. I learned this in the past but the width number is actually the sidewall width, not the tread. I always thought it was tread width but it's not. https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/understanding-tire-sizes-and-types Section width of tire (Example: P 225/45R17 91V) The three digits following the service type prefix (if present) tell us the cross-sectional width of the tire in millimeters. In the example above, the tires width, measured from the widest point of the inner sidewall to the widest point of the outer sidewall when properly mounted, is 225 millimeters.

How thick is your spacer? Did you use the spacer with your previous wheels? The lower valence has some adjustment. Have you tried loosening that side to see if it will move forward? (We see quite a few Z's with this issue when owners are changing wheels and tires... I had this issue when I first mounted my sons Rota Grids on Goldie. -> airdam)

I experienced the rub when I went with bigger wheels, though I'm not sure you will like my solution. The lower valence was pretty beat up on my car, so I swapped out to an air dam. The air dam did not have the clearance issues that I had with the stock valence.

You can only adjust toe on the factory stock Z's. Here's some aftermarket stuff. https://www.cxracing.com/control-arm-camber-kit

Yeah yeah i know... "Gauge" Some mysterious number that when it gets bigger it means some diameter is getting smaller?? HUH??? Could we, as Datsuns are METRIC! use also millimeters? (I'm fine with a bit of use of feet, inches and fahrenheit ?… but gauge… i feel Always a bit sick haha ? ) Cables and sheet metal are in Gauge.. i'm not familiar with it and don't want to .. haha Cables over here (europe) are in mm2 the higher the number the thicker it gets!! (What i call logic?)

https://www.lifesitenews.com/blogs/disappeared-chinese-research-paper-traced-covid-19-to-china-biolab-in-wuhan

All signs are that a mask or face shield or piece of cloth in front of your mouth and nose has a significant effect on stopping the spread of the virus. you can be contagious for a week or more before you realize it, spreading the virus in droplets from your breathing, apparently. Please don't post conspiracy theories or comments about where the masks are going or therpaeutic cures or other things. Just mask or face shield designs, and/or the government guidance on using them. Maybe local guidance also. The focus is on having a mask available and using it to stop the spread to other people. zKars had a nice design for a very good mask over in the COVID-19 thread. Here is a link to his first post.

I've been reading another thread that focuses on the new floor and frame rail stampings being offered by a shop in Florida (name?). I noted that there seems to be uncertainty over the actual OE panel thicknesses used for the S30's panels and stampings. Given the shear number of experienced S30 restorationists who have been participating in the CZCC website over the years, I'm a little surprised that we don't already have an in-place consensus on the gauges of the factory floor and rail stampings (not to mention all of the rest of the S30 structural and body panels). One would have thought that this would have been discussed and agreed upon long ago? @Patcon @ConVerTT @grannyknot @240260280 And yet... I've never come across a posting that pulls all of this information together in one place. So... here's a table that shows information that I've either collected from others in old posts or measured by myself from pieces from my 1970 and 1972 Z's (and the replacement frame rail that I ordered from ZeddFindings) (worth noting that measured thicknesses don't always line up cleanly against American gauge specs. My guess is that its because the Nissan OE panels were created from metric-spec steel sheet sourced from Japanese steel mills.) If you have a panel thickness measurement that you'd like to offer for any of the S30's panels or major stampings, maybe you'd like to consider posting it here so that we can build up a more complete library. Or, if you already have your own table of panel thicknesses, why not post it here so that everybody else can benefit? Panel Location Measured Thickness Gauge (reported) Gauge (derived by Namerow) Measured (or reported) by Front Apron (under Battery Tray) 20 Grannyknot Tabco replacement panels 20 manufacturer Thicker-gauge panels & pieces (locations?) 18 2manyZs, kmack Lower Front Frame Rail 0.050” 18 Carl Beck Lower Front Frame Rail - Zeddfindings 0.062” 16 Namerow Upper Front Frame Rail (‘Horn’) 0.054” ~ 16 Carl Beck Front Valence Panel 0.032” ~ 20 Namerow Front Crossframe 0.076” ~ 14 Namerow

This is a job for an nice tight o-ring and/or a sharpie to mark that 14mm line on the tubes. Maybe some thin pin stripe tape? What the heck won’t wash off with gas though? Oring is fine, but it can move.... Set it then crazy glue it? Use a square cross section o-ring? Maybe turn a shallow groove in the tube? Just enough to leave a mark.

Out of hibernation, still kicking down the road. Dash is cracking up, but no biggie, ?

I read an interesting (perhaps over simplified) article about the Covid-19 virus, don't remember where now. The outside of the virus has a coating of lipids (fat) that acts as a protective coating much like our skin. Once that lipid layer has been compromised the virus will soon die. That's why grease cutting soap, hot water (min. 140`f- 150`f is what I've heard) and min. 70% alcohol are recommended. Following that logic any good heat source (boiling water, oven) or grease cutting solvent (lacquer thinner, acetone, etc.) should do the job. Lacking an oven, I'd boil water and the mask in the microwave to ensure even heating.

Controlling the brightness works best by using a PWM. Read the attached for a quick overview. ApplicationNote_SE-AP00040-E.pdf

No good... Better...

The fuel in your tube should be level or even with the top of that rectangular square in this photo. The green arrow points down to a red line on bottom. In between 2 red lines that say "23mm". The lowest red line in that photo.

@HS30-H probably has gauges for 432-R (not including the FPR parts) ? It could make another column.

Yes, sir.

Thanks for starting this thread. One detail I’m trying to find clarification on, related to the issue of the mask as a preventative measure in the OUTWARD direction, ie if the user has Covid-19, is if they expire any raw covid 19 virus particles, or only larger droplets of whatever the body produces for fluids that CONTAIN the virus. This is critical, because in the latter case, darn near any old piece of cloth is likely to useful in capturing the fluids/droplets. If tiny virus particles only stuff is also there, then you need a finer material that will capture them. And of course none of this is an absolute all or nothing action. 50% reduction is transferring the virus is HUGE compared to nothing. At least get the mask to fit well enough so that the majority of your breath goes through the cloth and not around it. Get used to the new normal of wearing a mask while out. Put it in the oven in the evening at 170-200F to sterilize and dry it out to get set for the next wonderful “what will happen today?” world. Now I just need to make a mask with a pair of BRE red/blue stripes and I’ll be safe and stylish.

Per the MSA site, the foam cushions are NOT L/R specific. You should be able to swap them from one side to the other. BTW - if there has been some crushing over the years, consider adding some upholstery foam sheeting. It is available in various thicknesses. Been there, done that!

Firstly, thanks for starting this body metal thickness topic. Interesting a couple of days ago I was looking up some fastener specs and came across some info regarding BW vs Unified threads. It seems that BW system predates unified, In the UK Joseph Whitworth was the first to develop a standardized fastener system. Decades later American William Sellers, building on the work of Whitworth, proposed the another standardized system that became the unified system we use today. His system was cheaper to manufacture, sacrificing some features relating to fatigue performance. Here is an interesting fastener history link: https://www.nord-lock.com/insights/knowledge/2017/the-history-of-the-bolt/

Have you had it on the ground or are you turning the wheel while the wheels are hanging? And where, exactly is it rubbing? The "bumper" is that chrome covered thing on the front of the car.

Well, it could be a lot worse, you know. In England, they came up with something called the 'British Whitworth' system for fastener threads and that is a standard that defies comprehension (I can hear keyboards in Britain warming right now and I expect that we'll shortly be seeing explanations about why BW is actually the best system in the world ?). Here in Canada, our government decided way back in 1967 that metric was the way of the future and decreed that it would be the national standard from that point forward. Unfortunately, our neighbours to the south didn't completely agree (although large parts of the American industrial community did, including the auto manufacturers). Canadians of my generation (boomers) have adapted reasonably well to jumping back and forth between pounds and kilograms, and inches/feet vs. centimeters/meters. Depending on what you're shopping for, the preferred measurement could be metric or it could be fps (sometimes both!). Some of our food containers have truly unfortunate metric sizings (454ml, for example), because the container is actually sized in the old 'quart/ounce' system but labelled to adhere to the legal metric requirement. Speaking of quarts and ounces, did I mention that our 'Imperial' quarts and ounces are not the same as our American neighbours' quarts and ounces? I suspect that younger Canadians can only function in metric. All of these measurement standards have been made to work acceptably* when kept confined to their own geographic sectors. It's only when you start mixing them that things get difficult. (* Well, sort of acceptably. In engineering calculations, the fps system requires an unfortunate concoction called 'slugs' in order to make things work out.)

My dealer installed the aftermarket A/C by cutting holes in the inner fender and floorboard for the freon lines. I measured the panel thickness at 0.032" and picked up a piece of scrap at a salvage yard to make plugs to flush butt-weld into the four holes.

You won't find those on an early, but my 260Z has those outlets. (had. I have them but they're not currently installed) and my son's '76 280Z has them. Both are factory A/C cars. I don't think those are installed on Bob's '75 280Z museum car. It doesn't have factory A/C.

Thank you for your response. I too have a wife, but not quite as much encouragement. Also, I have a Piper Twin Comanche that occasionally needs attention, but is at least in good shape.

Yeah!! I've been having the same expreience. I ordered four wheel center hubs from someone in Bahrain. When I got them, they were too small. Now I'm stuck with four very nice shiny center hubs that don't fit. And I can't send them back.

Here is a link to a very recent story that goes in to great detail about how masks or face shields are effective. Also, the link to the CDC page recommending them. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2020/apr/04/why-wear-a-mask-may-be-our-best-weapon-to-stop-coronavirus https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/prevent-getting-sick/prevention.html?CDC_AA_refVal=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cdc.gov%2Fcoronavirus%2F2019-ncov%2Fprepare%2Fprevention.html Cover your mouth and nose with a cloth face cover when around others You could spread COVID-19 to others even if you do not feel sick. Everyone should wear a cloth face cover when they have to go out in public, for example to the grocery store or to pick up other necessities. Cloth face coverings should not be placed on young children under age 2, anyone who has trouble breathing, or is unconscious, incapacitated or otherwise unable to remove the mask without assistance. The cloth face cover is meant to protect other people in case you are infected. Do NOT use a facemask meant for a healthcare worker. Continue to keep about 6 feet between yourself and others. The cloth face cover is not a substitute for social distancing.

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-8188159/Did-coronavirus-leak-research-lab-Wuhan-Startling-new-theory-no-longer-discounted.html

I kind of like the effect of the white bulbs in the center gauge and tach. Are either dim-able? And lastly, why is your car upside down? ?

Sure is pretty!! I wish my paint still looked like that! The PO did a clear coat and it started getting dandruff a year or so ago. All the sky-facing surfaces have peeled up like a 3rd degree sunburn.

This looks to me like fuel has been leaking from somewhere for a long time, given the color of the stain. Here are a few things to check. First, make sure your float level is not set too high. If it's too high, gas may be coming out the vent tube on the fuel bowl lid, or more likely, given what I see in your pictures, your float bowl lids need new gaskets. Still it's unusual for this to happen unless very aggressively driving and sloshing fuel. I would also check to see that your fuel is not leaking due to a pin hole leak or poor sealing of the hose clips. Obviously this is an issue you should address ASAP. One of two conditions would cause that fuel stain

This was an insurance ad in the netherlands

How to be first in line when you hear that the price of a gallon of gas just dropped below $1.00. Dennis VID-20190618-WA00291.mp4

Any of the starters from 1970 to 1983 (ZX) will work. The ZX starters are gear reduction, higher torque. Any will bolt up and wire up and work fine. If you want it to look correct then 1970 - 1978 (?). The big ones.

I spend much less time feeling I should be doing something more constructive.

The problem is those replacements are also 40 years old and have or get the same problems.. no, for me i would restore the unit i've got already.. and let me ad, i've got the feeling, Ebay isn't anymore what is was.. lots of cheap junk for to high prices, and stuf that looks nice but is in fact almost junk.. as a friend aways says, "They (the buyers) all are like crows, if it shines they like it" !!

I can avoid people without seeming like an arse.

More great pics. Yeah, those blue blobs are tantalum caps and are probably fine. As for the rest of it, it looks pretty straight forward (easy for me to say, right?). Pair of analog multiplexers/demux, a counter to spin them through their paces, and a bunch of logic gates (AND/OR/NAND, etc), and a crystal to drive the whole thing. I'm guessing it's just a big ol state machine that cycles through eight states when the "start" button is pressed. Some analog conditioning on the front end for each channel, input mux connected to those to funnel it down to one signal as the counter counts to eight, a bunch of logic for the decision making, and an mux on the output side to direct the result to one of eight output transistors to drive each of the bulbs. Block diagram is pretty simple. So even though it's probably not that complicated, as long as replacements are available on ebay, I wouldn't get into component level troubleshooting.

Raymond Loewy designed 1955 Jaguar XK 140. Body by Boano. I have another of his classics parked in my garage, a 1963 Studebaker Avanti R2. You can see some aspects of this car (rear fenders and glass) in the Avanti design. Loewy did some interesting car designs over the years. Check this link for more on this car and others: https://tinyurl.com/rcpmq3b Loewy and I exchanged letters back in the days before email when people actually wrote letters on paper to each other. Loewy's letters were handwritten, not typed. I treasure them. Dennis

So some of the LEDs (SteveJs suggestion -thanks) that I ordered, came early, the clear version is (as luck would have it) still not scheduled to arrive until 4/21. I tried the red version (brake Light Failure) and the green version (turn signals) and you have to be patient - there is no abundance of clearance when installing the LED into the socket, but it fits. I then plugged the sockets into the respective holes. They install as they should and you will have no trouble with them bottoming out in the gauge causing the socket to become dislodged due to vibration ...etc. I was going to wait for the clear to finish this portion of the dash effort, but I am not the most patient person and I noticed all of the socket holes have green filters. I ordered 10 green and used two. I need 7 to light the tach, speedometer, and the 3 gauge set. I decided to populate the remaining 7 with the green LEDs. Could not stand not knowing what it would look like so I wired the lights to a battery. Yes the dash is upside down as I am testing the harness. And yes the gauge faces have a fair amount of dust on them but you get the idea. The wiring on this car separated the 3 gauge set lights from the speedometer and the tach with regard to the dimmer. When I was redoing the harness I tied all 7 bulbs to the same ear on the dimmer - so they all dim at the same rate. So these LEDs are a lot brighter than the incandescents. If they are too bright I can dim them down. I don't recall anyone ever claiming that the z gauge incandescent lights were overly bright. Once again, thanks SteveJ - I appreciate the help. regards, ron

Gundee, Thanks for responding. I am sorry to be the bearer of mixed news. The URL that you sent has a 360 deg view button, one of images is a dimension view. This is the url for that dimension view. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/. I have some of these and I believe that they fit in the speedometer and tach (will check if you need me to), but they do not fit in the gauges - oil temp, amp fuel or clock. As you can see the length is 26 mm for this bulb. The length of the bulb listed by SteveJ is 18 mm and I believe it will fit everything. ps 1 (3/23/20) I just checked and the 26 mm does fit in the speedometer and the tach. ps 2 (3/24/20) sorry to do this but I did not want to mislead anyone. I was working on the harness in my dash, and inadvertently put just the slightest amount of tension on one of the bulbs for the speedometer. It came out of its socket. So it turns out that the 26 mm LEDs do in fact hit the green lens inside the speedometer and the tach. I was fooled because one of the bulbs seemed tight enough, but it would be a mistake, in my opinion, to use the 26 mm bulbs anywhere on the dash. So to tie a bow around this the original incandescent length is approximately 20 mm. The alternative that SteveJ has suggested (thanks again) is 18 mm. There is one more critical dimension. There are 2 posts that extend out of the barrel of the bulb. they provide a key/locking scheme to keep the bulb in the socket. I apologize if I am confusing anyone. Anyway, on the suggested alternative there is a collar. That collar is no doubt larger than the socket, so the distance from the post on the barrel to the collar could be, likely is, critical if it is too short then you will not be able to get the bulb in the socket. This dimension is not available, so I cant be certain that the alternative will work. I will update this when I get the bulbs that I ordered. Sorry for the confusion. regards, ron

Did the warning system work properly before the dash was removed? Honestly I'm pretty sure the instrument cluster just houses a series of bulbs that light up when commanded by the control amplifier. So basically, unless there are broken solders or circuits on the circuit board of the instrument cluster (unlikely), I doubt it's the problem. I would double check all your connections, especially those running from the control amplifier (underneath the glove box) to the instrument cluster. If you want to start with the basics, make sure the control amplifier is being provided proper power and ground. 12v power is provided from the 2nd to the bottom fuse in the left column of the fuse box, through a green wire to the connector at your control amplifier. Ground is a black wire 2 cavities over from the green wire in the control amplifier connector, which goes through a junction connector and then to body ground. Since you pulled the dash, there's a chance you may have a loose ground or poor connection here. Page EL-83 in your FSM illustrates the wiring schematic you'll need to follow, but what I listed above will be the basics to get you started. If you suspect you have a faulty control amplifier, I have an '82 turbo parts car that I can send you a replacement for. I can't promise they're 100% compatible, but I doubt nissan would make changes to that particular system in 1 year. But I would first verify your harness integrity. And I can also assure you that mice, rats, squirrels etc. will absolutely chew up these harnesses, as I have seen first hand.

G'day Maddos, I like the photo of your zed. Mines the same (except the wheels). I think the metallic blue looks fantastic. As for the clock, you've noticed the tranny is an 828 (or something that you can't get anymore). I used a BC337. It is just a basic npn BJT we stock at my work. I am sure most common npn BJTs will do the trick. I found that when working, the 828 (or whatever it was) didn't have much grunt and replacing it with the BC337 gave it a bit more. The pin-out is different though! I have started writing up what I did and sketched a pin-out comparison between the two and another common BJT. You see the little copper-looking metallic disk. It appears to be made up of two windings. From what I gather, one is a 'pick-up'. It detects the magnets on the oscillating disks as they pass. This then creates a pulse, which drives the transistor, which then uses the second coil to give the oscillating disk magnets a little nudge as they pass the coil. Sort of like giving a kid on a swing a push each time they swing past you. I looked at the voltages at the transistor with an oscilloscope and the 828 didn't seem to give much of a push. I don't know if this was a design parameter or if the transistors back then were just junk. The replacement transistor gave it a stronger push and mine has been going strong for over six months now. Hopefully I will have some sort of write-up in a couple of days to post with pin-outs and waveforms. I will try to make it interesting.

I was stuffing around with a few Z clocks and found there were mostly two types. The one described above, and the one in my 260Z (a Kanto Seiki). The one I had was driven by a small electric circuit rather than a motor. I couldn't find any schematics so I got the oscilloscope out and traced it out. Of the three I got working again, one had failed capacitors, one had a failed transistor, and one had both the transistor and capacitor failed. I changed these to equivalents and presto. This was six months ago and they are still going... I think I will look at a way of putting the circuit, waveforms, diagrams (equivalent transistors will have different pin arrangements), and photos into one document and posting it. It should make a nice little article. Stay tuned.

Mask up! Effective today, Riverside County California made mask use mandatory for everyone outside their home - no exceptions. Not sure how it will be enforced, but I'm sure a lot of people are cutting up towels, t-shirts, and pillow cases to make masks like those shown above. I made mine last week with new, clean, shop rags and a hot glue gun. Not enjoying the New Normal. Dennis

Gents, not good news on the home front here. Today I started having some concerning symptoms. GI issues and a mild fever and chills. Hoping it subsides. Wife also got an email that they’re probably going to let her go. Hospital is losing money since there are no elective surgeries now and revenue dropped 65% in the last two weeks. They can’t afford to keep some salary employees. This sucks! I was supposed to go back to work on Monday but just called in sick. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk