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Car54280ZX

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Car54280ZX last won the day on August 18 2019

Car54280ZX had the most liked content!

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About Car54280ZX

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Springfield, Illinois 62704 USA
  • Occupation
    Retired Chief Structural Engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280zx
  • About my Cars
    1981 280 ZX purchased brand new on January 12, 1981. Currently has 25,500 miles on it. Engine is an L28E. Serial 535372 with a P79 Head. Manufacture date September, 1980. Color code 093 Lt. Brown.

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  1. From my extensive research on plating, I also believe that your explanation of the process is right-on! I went to the Caswell Store to see if I could do it myself. But after extensive reading about do it yourself blunders, I decided to have it done professionally. Home / garage doers need to perform this process in warm weather temperatures and with lots of ventilation. But, I’m not sure how they can polish the fuel rail. Hard to do on the fuel rail. In my case I think they dipped it in another chemical after the zinc plating, but before dipping it into the yellow chromate solution. In addition to the fuel rail, I had them apply the yellow chromate to several other miscellaneous parts like the hose clamps, small bolts, nuts and washers, and other pieces from the engine bay that had the yellow chromate originally. I believe they put these small parts in a basket for immersion. I can say that they did a great job and all of the parts carry that irradiance color. Beware. If you clear coat the intake manifold, it’s considered as a modification and you will lose points in a serious car show. Take it from me. I powder coated the intake manifold, the valve cover and transmission bell housing. Only to discover that I lose points for these minor upgrades. I hope I don’t get hammered by the web master when I explain that the firm who did the work was RELIABLE PLATING, located in Chicago, in a good neighborhood! Cost me $150 for the entire inventory of fuel rail parts including hose clamps, washers and nuts clamp bars, etc. This company did an excellent job, with a two week turnaround time. This company is a sizable outfit, but they do this plating all the time for small time automotive enthusiasts!
  2. Cost north of $60K? More than that. Yep. I’m embarrassed with the final numbers, but it sure looks like showroom again, even the underside is awesome. Approved by my wife!
  3. Cost of my restoration was north of $60k USD. No body work except for the air dam which took many scratches on those higher concrete parking lot stops. Damn those concrete parking lot stops. Almost All mechanical and some interior like headliner and hatch back interior back. Since I have 25,600 miles on it and I have fuel-up records of every time I purchased fuel, I’m not inclined to roll the odometer back. I think there is more value to the car with the fueling records. No kidding. I have all the fuel up records with dates and mileage. I used to keep it in a book. But the book got full, so I used the back of used postal envelopes to write it all down. And I have all of those too. Like writing on a bar room napkin. ??? I have no desire to roll back the odometer. I have all the records.
  4. I see the "can" type capacitor that is shadowed behind the the black taped wires, and the other "can" type capacitor near the bottom of the circuit board. Are these the ones you are referring-to in the first photo? These two might not be too hard to replace.Are these are power capacitors? The ones that look fried when they are bad?
  5. From the photo I posted earlier, see how sharp the engine looks? I had the fuel rail and numerous other parts re-dipped in cadmium. Not painted with the cadmium paint kit. It's the real thing. I had it done in Chicago. Please let me know if you want to know the name of the company. I highly recommend this company. They do a lot of industrial plating. The only thing is you have to clean the items first. Yes, you need to sandblast all of it, and then plug the ends of the fuel rail. But it comes back absolutely golden.
  6. Wowee Zowiee! I think that Piper might go a little faster than a ZCar but . . . I would recommend to take the plunge. What's important about doing your own restoration, you know what you have when you are done. You know what has been replaced and when; you know more about the engine and drive train; you know more about every little detail. And it's worth while. That's my opinion. Just my down-to-earth opinion.
  7. Hello @hansmeister, I spent a boat load of USD's to get this back to original stock condition. North of $50,000. But my lovely wife encouraged me to get it restored, and so I did it with "my" money. Like others have posted, you can probably get an already restored one somewhere at a much lower price. But I can tell you that there's no better feeling in the world than to see YOUR ZCar back to show-room condition!! Hard work pays off. But my 280ZX is second love to my wife. I did what I had to do. I also restored the UNDERSIDE of the car. Sandblasted all of the parts and repainting. And replacing everything I could replace. I worked with the guy that did the restoration and I did a lot of research on my own. And I did not establish a budget going into it, because it will ALWAYS change. Time and Material. If i had to do it all over again, I would still do time and material. Go with the flow. And stay in continuous contact with the guys working on your ride!
  8. Yeah!! I've been having the same expreience. I ordered four wheel center hubs from someone in Bahrain. When I got them, they were too small. Now I'm stuck with four very nice shiny center hubs that don't fit. And I can't send them back.
  9. This "glow" is what I think I am getting. I visited the website you recommended and it's been very helpful!!
  10. Hello @Captain Obvious! I took the 280ZX out for a ride today to see if I could get a photo of the problem. Great news. I was able to see the display. This time it wasn't just glowing but it showed the "STOP" icon. See the attached photo. This is the first time it actually did something more than just a "glow." I had to mess around with the HVAC controls to get this to work. Strange. Maybe there is really a ground wire acting up! I'm pulling my manual up to see what more I can find. I'd really hate to pull the dash again to find the controller above the glove compartment.
  11. Many thanks to all of you for digging into this!! After seeing the photos posted by @dutchzcarguy I can confirm these individual "icons" used to work perfectly. I was always able to see the individual "STOP", "HEAD", "TAIL", "WASH", "BATT" and finally "OK" at the end - all in different colors. I don't think they are LED's since this is early 1980's technology. In the photo posted by @dutchzcarguy the only "icon" that I never see is the solid color "DEFECT" signal. I think that's good news. The layered glass is an interesting technology that's likely very unique to the Japanese engineers. And like Captain Obvious said, "It's a light pipe." Something like some early fiber optic technology. This has been a very "enlightening" (HA HA) discussion. Now that I see photos of the WARNING MODULE (thank you very much!!) I know what I'm looking for when I get under the passenger side of the dash. There are tons of wires over on that side of the dash . . . very close to the fuse box. Now that the weather is getting nicer, I can pull my Z out of the garage on a dry day and start looking. I also have tons of photos which I will go through. Another thing BTW! I have ordered an enclosed trailer, currently being assembled by ALUMA in Iowa. 8.5 feet wide, 18 feet long with a dovetail at the back door ramp. I put a healthy down payment on it, but that was before the stock market took a sharp nosedive. Now I'm concerned that many spring and early summer car shows are going to be cancelled because of the pandemic. I'm hoping to take delivery on this trailer in early May. I checked yesterday and their company is considered "essential" because of all the agricultural trailers they make, so I hope there won't be delays and I hope the car shows will go on as planned. HOPE. Thanks for all the great and helpful discussion! Keep it going! I'm determined to get that warning module working. Rich K = Car54280ZX. I will keep everyone posted!
  12. I'm looking for trailer-mounted cameras to observe traffic in the cabin. I ordered an enclosed trailer to take my ZCar on out of town shows and cruise-in's. It's 8.5 feet wide so I can drive buy car in and squeeze out without squeezing other personal body parts. Because of the width, I am looking for a camera (or cameras) to install on the back of the trailer that I can use on the highway when I'M CHANGING LANES. Okay, don't give me too much crap . . . I'm not a truck guy, I'm an SUV guy. So I have a 2020 SUV with a V8 engine capable of pulling what I need. The outside mirrors don't stick out like on a RAM truck. So I'm looking for rear trailer cameras. Does any one have recommendations on cameras I can mount on the trailer and then see the video on my iPad or on the video screen?
  13. OMG. I only have one ZCar. So I can't post a pic of a working one. This indicator is in the instrument cluster directly above the steering wheel. And there is a push pin to activate it to check status of various components - headlights (right left), tail lights (right left), brake lights (right left), and another item. At the end of the check, the display says "OK" in a green color. Right now, it just glows, showing all of the status symbols. The next time I see it happening, I will take a video of it on my iPhone and share it with everyone!!
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