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I am a babbling fool and thanks to you guys and gals that's okay. I won't be jailed or worse. Thank you for all you've done for us. Cliff

Thanks for the kind words Cliff. Keep on babbling. And all those years I thought I was just keeping the World safe from Communism. ? Dennis

Oh, you just wanted us to do the legwork for you.

Hey guys and gals, I’m a new member but have grown up addicted to z cars. Thanks for the add, I look forward to having some great conversations. Here’s a picture of my ‘75 280z which I’m in the process of painting. Also tightening up some odds and ends I don’t want to say restoring because I drive it a few days out of the week and it’s in a lot better shape than any I’ve seen around me. But it’s my pride and joy! I also have another ‘75 Only a few vin numbers apart but it does in fact need a full restoration. So needless to say I’ve got my hands full! -please give my instagram page dedicated to my cars a follow! @jones30_ -also my personal Instagram page! @jonesyjdm The copper z is my main car the blue z is my project

Who would have thought that the tools to keep a Z's rust habits at Bay could be learned keeping the rust off of the hull of a Navy ship. At least one doesn't have to go over the side or climb down an anchor chain to get a coat of paint on the Z. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Thanks Dennis and Mark and all the other vets around here!

I've sold a Zcar through ebay and BaT and have advertised on Hemmings, with Hemmings I got lots of interest but no sale after a month then I put the car on BaT and it was sold by the end of the week at my asking price. I got a good price on ebay but difficulty with the buyer and ebay was of no help there, once the auction is done and the fees paid ebay doesn't care about you. BaT on the other hand will help you every step of the way and follow up to make sure all goes smoothly after the auction, however BaT will want a low reserve which can be unnerving. If your car is a rust free and fairly low in the VIN numbers then you should get the best market value on BaT, the lack of the 4spd trans although inconvenient shouldn't affect your price too much. As mentioned above, gather as much documentation as you can as you can. Please post some photos, lots of experienced guys here.

I know, spark plugs are $2.50 each, its outrageous!

Thanks for the goodies today too Jim!

Tanks these louts and to all that serve!

The best desert boots I ever bought were Converse. They don’t make them anymore. Now I wear Rockys.

Just a simple way to knock the sweeper looose is to hit the black box on the afm with the unbussiness end of a screwdriver. Those small things get stuck by spider webs, tps and the vane. Did you pressure wash the engine bay? That could be an issue until it all dries.

Yes they do know our small market and keep us "fed".

Courtesy has a pretty good parts site but the best thing is, they are very supportive of the classic car segment. I like to see that rewarded

See the world they said... I saw a lot of sand...!

This will be very helpful. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Thank you and your friends @240260280 for this deep well of knowledge. It was and still is a life saver for me! ?

Thanks everyone. I have a charcoal canister on the way. Believe it's the three nipple, but will see when it gets here and dig into how to get it all connected. This info is all great. Also have found a timing light to use, so hopefully have that soon to test timing. Ordering some new spark plugs as well to do that testing. Progress.

I can control individual spark dwell with sequential. Can you do that with wasted?

edited for better English!

zKars took care of me!

Wasted spark is fine 99% of the time. I went with full sequential, just because of how easy it was, 3 wires and a cam sensor. I think it added 150$ to my install.

Check the air box and filter. Could be full of acorns. The sweeper vane on the afm could be stuck. Tps could be sticking on idle side. Fuel filter could be clogged etc. As Zed Head says more info.

I love that the OP has never posted back to his thread and yet it's taken a life of it's own...

The AFM plug has been known to fall off. Check that. Really need more detail though. Is the engine fully warmed up or cold? Has it ever run right? I know you've posted before but I can't remember the details. Add a a lot more detail. There's almost nothing in this post.

In other news, I went with undercoating on the floor, mostly to black it out when viewed from the side.

A) Yes, as in the rear fit is great for me B ) No as I need to measure what movement i've got on the front before the bar hits the rail, a little more thought would be nice. I actually fixed the rear problems, as one link should be longer than the other to prevent pre tensioning the bar(due to the mounting areas being flipped on the pressings on the control arms. However lets see how they work. The rear might be a a couple of MM too thick, although its thinner than other places offered!

Yeah it's better to have a professional shop do to the body work, and the rest YOURSELF. I learned the hard way to.. EVEN now I still have that on-going problem with my mustang automatic transmission as you know.. not much skilled people left these days, where the hell am I paying for ? I've prob could have done it better myself with a good book and patience..

There's a lot of information on this at HybridZ. I ran Megajolt on my previous 260Z, it's a relatively easy system to get running. The only real challenges are the trigger wheel and sensor, and those can be bought off the shelf to make it almost trivial.

I also picked up some rubber bits from the dealer.

Bring a Trailer is a good venue. However, that group of prospective buyers tend to be very needy in the information department. Be prepared to have a solid understanding of the car you are selling. I mean history of the vehicle, any previous body work, condition of the mechanical, etc... Be prepared to include lot of pictures in the post, to include the obligatory shots of the battery box and doglegs. You will be asked a myriad of questions and be expected to answer them promptly. I have also seen many auctions where strong personalities with their own agendas dominate the discussion on a vehicle driving the dialog off the rails. That said, if you do not want all the hassle, try advertising on Hemmings Motor News first and see where that goes. Good luck.

I've been casually rolling some ignition stuff around in recently as well. Stuff like who controls the dwell and advance, etc... Different options and the like about that. Here's a bunch of links I was poking around on: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/convert-a-ford-or-chrysler-ignition-to-gm-hei/ https://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech/spark-it-up-how-to-convert-a-ford-or-mopar-distributor-to-gm-hei/ http://megasquirt.free.fr/sources/MS/manual/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm http://www.megasquirt.info/HEIgn.htm https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2008/11/The-lost-art-of-servicing-GM-HEI/1719426.html https://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?PHPSESSID=m15m00cdf1sj27pk5r472sjv05&topic=11116.15

From page 62 of section EFEC:

Many of us would opt for computer controlled cars if funds weren't an issue. There are some really nice things about computer controlled cars. The late 70s and early 80s cars require a logical mechanical mind to sort out, but it can be done. They ran great when new, so it can be done. Many of the cars have been neglected and hacked on by previous owners but this forum sorts out a hand full or more of these kinds of cars and associated problems every year. I suspect you have a bunch of vacuum leaks to start with. It's just my opinion, and worth what you paid for it, but a 4 barrel is not a good choice for these engines. If I was adamant about going carburated, I would bolt on a set of SU's. They are simple and very effective. They also have a more even fuel mixture over the 6 cylinders, that the 4 barrel won't and you don't need a box full of jets to get the mixture right

It doesn't. You can download a service manual from the site's downloads area. Read the EFEC chapter, it describes the EFI system. The Electrical chapter describes the ignition system.

What if someone had a spread sheet with all the Z part numbers from carpartsmanual.com? There is only about 17,000 or so.... Shirley your Nissan parts friend could put those in manually and see what pops up, right?

Got on with some bits i'd been putting off due to the 'fear' of doing it. There was a tiny bit of over 'blasting' from the second round of paint that left the bottom of the rails looking like they could suffer, along with the lovely original panel joins in the wheel well, that would be prone to water ingress, so it was stripped, etched/sealed/primed/stone chipped and painted. stone chip all under the front also. Then paint Once that was done, subframes and ARB's. Rear wheel bearings finally sorted. I've got a technique now, after all the practice I had! I shimmed the companion flange 1mm using 0.5mm shims, wheels turn nice and freely. A dry build of the front suspension I've an issue, where the lower adjuster on the front strut hits the balljoint thread. only needs 3mm to clear However a set of RCA's/bump steer spacers will do the job. Common american ones are 1" which I think is far too much, 15-18mm would do myself fine. I've concern over how close to the frame rail the front arb is. I can't remember how close the standard one is. a 'fix' would be to increase the thickness of the spacer/spreader plate under the chassis rail and cutting some length out of the distance piece on the arb link. I'll measure how much travel I get before it hits first. I did drop it on its wheels for the first time in 7-8 years.

hello siteunseen again, I had my gap set to .050 with my set up and today I changed my plugs to the ngk bpr6es-11 gap that I had laying around . the ngk factory setting was at .041 and the car ran better with the closer gap. we spoke the other day about my carbs and I finally finished the float setting . I had to have the wife blow in the gas inlet tube as I set the floats to .55 and now my mixture screws are set at 2 -1/2 turns down . I had a slight stumble of line but I corrected that with a slight increase in idle speed by about 40 rpms and the stumble is gone. so know I am just playing with an ignition tune- up . but the car ran better going from the plug gap at .50 down to .041. if I decide to go lower I will order the plugs with out the 11 at the end. just looking to see what others are set at also . thanks for your reply

matching glove box cover is on my pipeline.

I am also in the beginning stages of doing this research and was planning to do some sort of write up on it. I just reached out to Wheee! and have been digging through Duffy’s thread to get started. I think this thread is as good a place to compile notes as any. This is what I have gathered, plus contributions by @Zed Head, @duffymahoney, @wheee!, and @madkaw (please suggest edits as appropriate): Benefits Better Performance? - Yes, in the form of hotter spark, less chance of misfire, more efficient combustion, and better emissions Better power? - Maybe. Full control of timing in any load situation is a far and above the compromise of a dizzy - however it might be recurved. Lower cost? - Not initially, but parts are easier to find that the original setup once a system is in place. Tunable? - Yes. Programmable ignition curves allow you to optimize for power and efficiency. Required Components Coils (6) Spark Plugs (6) Coil Bracket Camshaft Triggering Device / Position Sensor / Angle Sensor Crankshaft Triggering Device / Position Sensor / Angle Sensor Ignition Control Unit / Module Battery Wiring Harness Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Tachometer Signal Converter Considerations Cost - Is the cost of the system worth the benefits for your car vs OEM parts or other options? Availability - Can you find replacement components to get your build finished and keep it working? Difficulty - Will you need to have help getting it installed, tuned, and keep it working? Appearance - Which of each component is right for your build style? Heat - How will heat be managed to ensure proper function and longevity? Positioning - How will you route the wiring through firewall and what mounting points will work for each component? Accessories - Will you be running AC, the headlight relay harness, non-original alternator, other hard-wired electronics, etc.? Glossary Smart Coils (from AEM Performance Electronics) “Smart” Inductive Coils are designed for use on applications that do not have an external igniter. Wasted Spark (from Wikipedia) In a wasted spark system, the spark plugs fire in pairs, with one plug in a cylinder on its compression stroke and the other plug in a cylinder on its exhaust stroke. The extra spark during the exhaust stroke has no effect and is thus "wasted". This design halves the number of components necessary in a typical ignition system, while the extra spark, against much reduced dielectric resistance, barely impacts the lifespan of modern ignition components. In a typical engine, it requires only about 2–3 kV to fire the cylinder on its exhaust stroke. The remaining coil energy is available to fire the spark plug in the cylinder on its compression stroke (typically about 8 to 12 kV). “If you're running a wasted spark system, you don't need cam sensor. Two pistons will be approaching TDC at the same time. Of the pair, one of the rising pistons is approaching TDC on it's compression stroke, and the other one is approaching TDC on it's exhaust stroke. A cam sensor would allow you to differentiate between those two, but if you're running a wasted spark system, you don't care... Just spark both of them at the same time. If you had a cam sensor, you could spark just the cylinder on it's compression stroke alone without "wasting" a spark on the other cylinder.” - Captain Obvious COMPONENTS: COILS ACDelco D585 Nissan R35 COMPONENTS: COIL BRACKETS Blake Machine Co. http://blakemachine.com/performance_parts_by_blake_machine/datsun_coil_on_plug_brackets_6__4_cylinder List of Options for Crank and Cam Position Sensors @ Hybrids -https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126710-list-of-options-for-crank-and-cam-position-sensors/ COMPONENTS: CAMSHAFT ANGLE SENSOR Jeep 4.0 CAS in stock distributor location https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125904-jeep-cam-angle-sensor-for-l-series/ 1998 Nissan Quest (PN: 22100-P8500) https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58568-duffys-171-series-1-240z-build/?page=19&tab=comments#comment-582356 COMPONENTS: CRANKSHAFT ANGLE SENSOR 1982-83 280ZXT distributor with DIYautotune wheel XXX Austin Hoke Bolt-in-Kit http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/l-series-crank-angle-sensor https://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/l-series-crank-angle-sensor-kit BJH Dynamics / Robello Racing XXX Damper-mounted universal or OEM trigger wheel XXX Flywheel Hall Sensor XXX Top End Performance Trigger Wheel fab Service XXX COMPONENTS: ECU Crane: Electromotive: Haltech: https://www.haltech.com/ MSD: Megajolt: https://www.autosportlabs.com/the-new-megajolte-mk2-is-here/ https://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb-edis-installation.html https://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p72.html

I forgot to show off my '71 240Z Vintage Dash. Love it!

I think you really need to find the clearance on the thrust bearing and measure properly so that it is repeatable, so you're getting consistent reading on both sides using the long screwdriver to pry.

My parts manager sent me pics...

Not any mechanic I would use. Like Wheee said, I don't do burnouts in my car why would I let my mechanic do it.

I will have to walk away from the pissing contest about the dashes on this BAT thread. Do not wish to hi-jack it and detract from the auction. For those actually interested in the difference between the the two dashes, other than the huge price difference, my thoughts are as follows. Personally, I believe the exterior plastic is exactly the same for both dashes, and both are installed the same way (vacuum forming). Both have the exact same texture which does not match the OEM texture, but looks good. The difference is the foam portion. The Vintage Dash foam is molded and is a single piece. Just Dashes removes the outer plastic skin and trims the foam where needed and then re-foams and shapes the dash. I think the problem here is that there can be areas of the Just Dashes dash that are not replicated as well. One of those areas is the center cluster where the three instruments are located. You can actually see the difference in the pics below, Just Dashes dash is on orange car, Vintage on the blue. The 'Deja Vu' Dash is from Just Dashes and was purchased, I think, before Vintage Dashes was in existence..or at least in it's infancy. The Just Dashes 'scallops' are a bit fat and rounded, where as the Vintage Dashes 'scallops' are a bit more sleek. I did a visual check with my '70 and feel that the Vintage Dash replicated this area much better than Just Dashes. I did not check other areas of the dash. Instrument fit is similar for both dashes. The one negative for Vintage Dashes is that they omit some of the flaps in the glove compartment area. Not sure why that is as it would seem pretty easy to re-produce. The flaps are not visible once the glove box is installed. Anyway, just my opinion for those that are interested.