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This is doable with a 3 liter motor but it takes about 12k to do it unless you are a very gifted engine builder. The head work alone is about 2-3k of that. Rebello or Datsun Spirit build them all the time but the real question is "How fast do you want to spend?" Very difficult for a DIY'er to hit those goals. These cars don't really need 300hp, an honest 200-225 makes them move really nicely without tearing the drivetrain and chassis up

Some random Zcon 2019 beautiful cars, some of the very best of Mr M's timeless vision .....

So Sean, agreed 100000% with Mr Patcon (at least I think he is a Mr! As for being a gentleman, the jury is out on that one)! :P My L28 with E88 head and mostly stock internals* + SU carbs is doing 232BHP / 210lbft. The tuner backed off @6400rpm even though the power was still climbing (he was afraid of it going too lean and melting a piston). From this point on each pony gets exponentially more expensive. The tuner tells me that with better top end fuelling / triples there is another 10-15% in there but that’s a lot of money for another, say, 20bhp. (By the time it’s fully rolling road tuned up I make it well over £2000 / $3000 additional spend). In all honesty the power I have is plenty enough for spirited driving on the public road and safely putting it ALL down. 60mph comes around in 5 seconds and the old lady regularly scares the pants off Subaru Imprezzas and other exotic machinery. But the greatest fun isn’t drag racing off the lights, it’s the lovely power around the twisty roads. Aim for a lovely beefy flat torque curve over headline BHP figures - you will enjoy it more and much more often, in any gear. My engine was built by very experienced chaps doing this for 40 years. They have built a 300bhp NA motor for their time attack machine (no diesel crank either). Don’t even think about what it cost them in parts, blood, sweat and time! Sadly they are all retiring :( As said already, the power in these engines is mostly made in the head. So time and money would be well spent there. Then there are the ancillaries that have to be matched, such as a decent ignition, exhaust system, carbs etc that make a huge and sometimes overlooked difference. There are a lot of very expensive carbs out there that are poorly set up, so budget for a decent amount of time / money on the Rolling Road with an experienced tuner. You could always head for Jenvey throttle bodies and EFI but then, as said before, it gets expensive. Good luck and watching your progress with interest. *Schneider springs / caps, 270 degree cam, 0.48” lift, fully ported head, flat top standard weight pistons 1mm over, larger 280 valves.

First image shows the notch on the sender and tab on the tank Second image shows feed lines inside the tank that the float has to go over, then under the lines. You'll need tilt the sender to do this Third images show the correct orientation of the two top posts on the sender once it is seated. This would be the angle of view if you were working in the hatch. It should seat easily but If there is any binding you'll need to readjust the sender by lifting it up and try again. You'll know when everything feels right.

Your '71 came with a jack, jack handle, lug wrench and wheel chocks. It did not come standard with any of the pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches shown in Kat's thread. Those tools were optional and would have been a parts order from the dealer. None-the-less, that's what they looked like.

@siteunseen You need a new seat:

? or a 42 year old newspaper in the hatch!

Where would we be without friends?@convertt stopped by with a new (to me) fender for me! Much better condition and near perfect fit! Thanks Kent!

Ahhh...you're chasing windmills. HLS30-08808 is the 240Z-R you are looking for. It was sold through Lynne's Nissan, according to Pete Evanow, which wasn't one of the named dealers in the Nissan documents. Displayed at the 1988 Z Car Convention in Albuquerque, New Mexico, it was a specialized "high-performance" version of the standard specification and build number 23 according to Pete Evanow's list. According to Carl Beck, it is in Stanhope, New Jersey and has an original build date of August, 1970. I don't know what was so "high-performance" about the build. It looks to be very similar to the car that was built for Keith Crane, publisher of "AutoWeek". I believe it is supposed to have distinctive upholstery, front spook, polished valve cover, and wheels. Carl's photograph of the car shows stock wheels and Pete's photograph shows the polished slots. No telling.

Here's the one I remember seeing on the forum...

I stuck a motorcycle engine in the freezer once to chill the crank for bearing install. funny what you can get away when left alone for a weekend.

Just because one can, doesn't mean one should!

Another reason why Colorado's legalized POT is not a good thing.

@ZCarFever The clips are now available for $30/set from Zeddsaver. He bought one of my sets and I am glad to see he is producing them and able to offer a better price. I recommend you check him out and purchase a set from him. https://www.zeddsaver.com/collections/miscellaneous-parts/products/datsun-240z-series-1-hatch-vent-clips-1

Oh, Seedroo, I just went back and read what you quoted. Ha! Just goes to show you. Don't believe everything you read on the internet! Ha!

"engine clean enough to eat off of". Not sure where the seller is used to eating. But, if it's out of a dumpster, he may be correct. Between covering the side quarter windows and blocking the rear window view with the ginormous tall spoiler he's certainly enlarged the driver's blind spot. Dennis

A drive train, a way to cool it, wiring harness, battery and a fuel supply

Thanks gents, got it all to fit.

Yeeaaa... I am going with 350 mile car!

Sneak peak...

I once "borrowed" a box of black hair dye to freshen up a set of cargo straps for a 240z, never heard a word about it, couldn't be me my hair hasn't been black for years. The cargo straps looked fantastic.

Use a 280ZX block....bore it .040 over, use P79 flat top pistons, use the modern P79 head or N42 head (not the E88 that you have). If you go P79 head, shave and shim it .080 and install a Isky Stage III Cam. Put your numbers matching engine on a stand in the closet. Now you’ve got a fun engine!

Having been one of the first 800 S2K owners in the country I used to love the bahhhhhhh above 6k rpm on EVERY drive. Then I drove my fiend’s BMW Z3M with the same headline 0-60 but that torque curve was just delicious! The Z is very similar in that respect. S2k was a motorbike on 4 wheels and you had to rag it everywhere to get the performance (and that was part of its charm). Z3M, any gear any speed would push you into your seat. Totally different ways to win your heart. Ask yourself what suits your driving best? High rpm / BHP and less low to mid range torque or good spread of torque and lower headline BHP? People buy BHP but drive torque!

Interesting. I am looking forward to having my engine dyno'd when done. It is a Stroker 3100cc out of @zKars old car and will have new life with a fuel injection system, Coil on Plug spark, Crank Angle Sensor and Haltech ECU. I am hoping to get close to these numbers with some fine tuning on the dyno.

It won't stress the u-joint but it might lead to vibration due to u-joint misalignment. The transmission output shaft and the diff input shaft are supposed to be parallel within a few degrees. Most people don't have problems with it though, apparently it's "close enough".

This could be what you are looking for Bruce. Zcardepot https://zcardepot.com/collections/exhaust/products/copper-exhaust-manifold-nut-set-240z-260z-280z

I like the louvers on the sides, I guess that directs the rain water up to cool the door hinges.

Thanks Alan , I feel more toward American people as I fell in love with my American 240Z . That was my very first experience and the passion for HLS30 is still glowing. I feel sometimes I am the only one who loves American 240Z deeply in Japan . ( yes the orange VZ’s owner Mr . Watanabe is exceptional ) So the statement “99 % of people in the US doesn’t care about JDM S30 models “ seems to me correct and I can say 99% of people in Japan don’t care about the US 240Z , this is my feelings over twenty years of my experience. But like me , if people in the US have a chance to see and get behind the wheel in a stock Z432 or 240ZG ( property maintained of course ) , they will be delighted and opened their eyes widely for sure . Even L20 Fairlady Zs , will bring you some excitement not only just being RHD , they have different features in a cockpit, and exterior. I have to find seriously of this red VZ which was sold to someone in Japan with a combo of Ferraris and some other marquees . I took some pictures of the car when I visit the show room in 1998 . This car is almost perfect original condition, it seems only a few small things need to be replaced if I were the owner .The only big work would be applied to the radiator core support upper , around the hood stay clip area should be flat for the early cars like this HLS30-00630 . Up to mid 1970 ? Someone corrects me please . By the way , I have four different Mr. Watanabe in my S30 friends . I am sorry if I make you confused. Kats

Hi Kats, Nice set! They look to be in good condition. I believe they are the 'old' type 44PHH-2, as fitted also to the U20-engined SRs. Nissan Sports supplied them in sets of three as a Sports/Race Option for the S20 engine, and Nissan's Works team used them on the first versions of their LR24 race engines (as tested by Kobayashi san for Car Graphic back in 1970). Did the previous owner put some reproduction A15 type stickers on them? Terashima san has a set on his PZR:

Well said Charles, but 300 hp is probably more like 20k plus....... 275C8E79-2576-48A6-8522-7995889F6CF7.MOV

https://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/d/orlando-old-model-datsun-car-for-sale/6922538597.html Reminds me of corvette summer. "This is a very old antique car, it is ready to go. Was well taken care of, exterior purple, interior black, and motor still runs. "

These posts have come up before . Google 200 RWHP Hybridz and read so,e of those threads . 200 hp is much more realistic and if you haven’t driven a Z with 200 you don’t have the objectivity to ask for 300. 200 would be a hand full for a street motor. People that have ridden in my 155 rwhp car swear it’s much more. Gearing will help with the fun factor . The advice above is realistic. These engines aren’t cheap to get that HP goals . Cams, cam gears, harmonic balancers , pistons , valves , port work, hardware, engine control( ignition and fuel) , triples or EFI , $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Unless it's a diecast or plastic model, I don't think a Z is going to fit on top of that bench.

hahaaha Dennis! Laugh of the day.... Thanks

My 1981 280 ZX sat in a farm house garage for 24 years (no climate control). Tires were flat but I filled them with air and they stayed full of air for 20 months during restoration until I put new tires on it earlier this month of July 2019. I never had my Z in rain or snow. Despite this, the under carriage looked terrible and my original exhaust system looked really rough. Impossible to read any stamped information on my original muffler. I have 25,530 miles in mine and I have all mileage documentation. I pulled my L28 and had it all redone. I find it hard to believe that there are only 350 miles on your Z. Hard to believe that the owner would change oil before 350 miles and put on a Fram filter. Original filters are baby blue. Pull the valve cover and the head (which you will have to do anyway) to see what the engine has been through. Check the anti-freeze in the radiator for more evidence. Pull the oil plug; drain the oil and check it. Check the air filter to see what’s there. Air filter should not be very dirty with 350 miles in the odometer. Check the struts for wear and leakage. Any mice infestation under the hood? In passenger cabin? Dust: My Z sat for 24 years and had lots more dust than what I’m seeing, and I kept my Z paint job in meticulous condition before I got too busy and let it go for 24 years. Has your Z been stored in a climate controlled space all this time?

And this is for @Captain Obvious, thanks buddy.

Well, I found a couple of crossed wires, and it will run the fuel pump like it should. Now I have to get the TPS adjusted (in part by using the right cover) and figure out how to break loose the plug on the O2 sensor bung. There's an outside chance I will have it done in time.

The good news is you don't have to drain or drop the tank to fix this. It can all be done under the back decking through a round plate on the passenger side. Clocking is important. There is a notch on the sender that lines up with a tab on the tank. Since it is a top mounted unit you have to be careful putting the sender into the tank. After your gyrate the float to pass through the opening, that float has to go OVER two hard lines in the tank. There is a good chance that you dropped the sender float and arm are on the wrong side of those two lines. That would in effect jam the sender are and not allow the sender to read accurately. I'll post some pictures shortly.

Some big progress today, bumpers on, dash in, emblems on. Just have to pick up a fresh battery tomorrow, throw the drivers seat in and take it out for a drive! In case anyone is interested the total weight of all the bumper parts comes to 80lbs.

LOL. I can park it in my wood shop and it won't take long to look filthy.

It won't hurt, depending on the car sometimes a bit of that area is visible. Besides, if you don't paint, it will show and you'll be kicking yourself.

I read these keep them away so I bought one and what I read was absolutely correct. They are horrible here and jeez louise do they have abnormaly huge balls! I don't know how they can climb so fast with those between their legs.

I'm in!

Finally cleared off the Z work bench after 2 years of "catch all junk bench'. Now to use it for a Z.

Make sure its installed correctly. The float needs to travel in a vertical line, if the sensor is not clocked correctly it will not travel its full arc. If it is clocked correctly its possible the sensor arm has been bent, easy fix, bend it like you would an old school toilet float until its right. If not done already, you can pull the sending unit out, clean it with some evap o rust and check it over closely. Install with a new O ring and you should be good to go. I am thinking of my 75, 77 may have a top mounted sensor, if so don't think the clocking is a problem but still would not hurt to pull it out to maker sure there is no corrosion limiting travel on the rheostat part, and the bend to fix still applies. You should get a resistance reading as well, I suppose the full tank could be reading right at the sensor and the gauge could be wrong. IIRC full should read around 10 ohms empty something like 90 ohms.

The method of setting float levels where you turn the mixture screws 10 turns down, remove the domes, and set the fuel level so it is even with the top of the nozzle tops has been written about many times on many sites. The site / article where I was first introduced to the method is at the link below. https://zcarguide.com/tuning-adjusting-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/ I learned a lot from the article but 4 key things in particular. First, adjusting SU carbs really hinges on getting the floats set right first. If you don't have that right, then I find that everything else ends up being a compromise. BTW, some disagree that setting the floats is super important but I am a believer and kool-aid drinker on the theory. If you don't get the fuel level set right in the floats then you end up setting the mixture level significantly different than 2.5 (plus or minus .5). When you do this you end up shifting the needle zones up or down and outside of the intended range in the power band. Worse, if the float adjustment is off by enough, you can't even get the mixture adjustment screw to cause any change. Again, this is all my opinion...and is shared by some and disagreed with by others...which is fine. You will figure out what works for you. Second, the 10 turn down method was the only method that, for me, was exact and repeatable. I just could never get the .55 hanging down while sucking (no comments Site) or clear tube set to 23mm or whatever to work for me. No doubt, it works for some. To me though all of the other methods, at the end of the day, are trying to get the fuel to a certain level in the nozzle (10 turns down), so why not measure using the goal? Third, once you have the floats set, using a Color Tune to set the mixture works really well for me. A couple of Color Tune tips though. 1) use the Color Tune in the dark...or low light. This will let you see the colors better. 2) Clean the Color Tune often. Once the engine has been running with the Color Tune for 1 minute or so, I find that I cease to be able to see the distinctions between Red (rich), Blue (ideal), and White (lean). So, I pull the Color Tune plug and clean with carb cleaner spray often. It is a kind of tedious process but it is accurate and repeatable. Fourth, I use the Color Tune at two rpm levels- Idle and about 3k rpms. I let idle run a little rich (red)...which makes 3k end up being about right (blue). Also worth checking if you are having fuel delivery issues is the little flexible hoses that connect the float bowls and the nozzles. Make sure you use ZTherapy or similar hoses that are super flexible. And, make sure the hose is not creased...impeding flow. I assume that your nozzles are moving up and down correctly and closing fully when choke is off and opening when choke is on. Stay with it. You will figure it out. EDIT: One more thing...and many may disagree with this too. I have never had any success getting the 3 screw carbs where one float bowl lid has longer ears and you use a longer needle jet to work. This arrangement causes the float to remain angled lower in the float bowl, which I think causes it to get hung against the float bowl wall. So, if you have a carb set where one has the lid with long ears and longer needle jet, and you can't get the float level set exactly and reliably, consider locating another short ear float lid. You can use any short ear float lid from any round top carbs. I had an extra set of 3 screw carbs sitting around and scavenged the short ear lid from that set of carbs.

I agree whole heartedly......in the 70’s, these cars were driven off the show room floor and immediately began the transition to being personalized to become a car to be driven. Stock restored Z’s are cool to look at, but if you have one beside it with some goodies to bring it up to snuff, you are going to climb in the modified Z every time. In the 70’s, you noticed the lowered, spoilered, wider wheels and tuned exhaust Z’s with a lot more respect than the stock cars. John Morton and Pete Brock and Bob Sharp were responsible......these cars are easy to modify and a blast to drive hard.......they are all cool cars, just some cooler than others!

Wow! Just a great project! Thank you for sharing with all of us. What a stunning car!

I posted the pic of my #305 code roof to illustrate how easily this colour can change it's appearance depending on the available light level when the pic was taken, from my experience the colour of the OP's exterior and ash tray cup could easily match. Now that the OP has posted a pic of the trans tunnel we can all see that they do match. To me it shows no such thing, what I see is virtually no miles but 43 years sitting. @brunodoggy, I don't know what you paid but you got a great deal regardless, take lots of pics.

Ok. Here are some more pictures. I am comfortable stating that the 350 miles are true. I pumped up the original tires and they held air! Released the brake and was able to push the car by hand. I was not expecting that!.