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Ok, so now they're just being silly. The car is a total loss! Not enough in parts to justify that price.

Thanks, I'm lucky enough to get get 4 months off each winter so for that block of time it's 8-10 hrs a day 5-6 days a week, I think I have about 2700 hrs into the car so far and I would guess about half of that is sanding and polishing. The paint is not perfect, there are flaws but I' m hoping they are just more noticeable to me. Aw shucks

All years of rear control arms are inter changeable it's just the 280 and maybe 260 rear control arms are beefier. While you are having a look through archives you could search differences between urethane bushings and original rubber, many members here have installed urethane kits only to turn around and remove them and replace them with rubber.

Welcome Oscar! If 12V direct to the pump does not make it hum then it seems to be dead. There is a device in the front of the car called an airflow meter (AFM) it has a mechanical switch that sends power to the pump when cranking. These can stick or corrode. Have a look here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

Have you checked for power at the pump with a gauge or test light? Try hitting the pump with a hard object. Sometimes, they just get stuck when not used for a while. Dennis

Dave you are correct there are 2 transistors in the control unit that are associated with the pulse to the injectors (FSM EF-51).One transistor is associated to injectors 1-2-3 and the other with injectors 4-5-6. I did this check with the 3 volt lamp as indicated in the manual and both transistors check out. This isn't an exact performance evaluation , but rather an overall output check. Funny I remember many years ago I had a lamp that was provided with a FI meter I purchased and no explanation of what it was for. I don't know what happened to it, but that was the lamp as mentioned in the manual. I also pulled the dropping resistors and cleaned everything including the connector contacts on both sides. All the resistors measured 6.5 ohms. After I reinstalled I checked that the power relay was working and there was battery voltage at the control unit pins for each injector. The car is running MUCH better and no backfire thru AFM. The drop outs are farther apart and very small compared to previously. I went back and retested with my Colortune unit and the visual blue flame is much better on cylinders 1,2,3. There are still some drop out or miss fires, but not as many. The intensity of the Colortune flame is much brighter. Cylinders 4,5,6 are unchanged, bright in color intensity and no drop outs. So, I think part of the problem may have been with the connectors on the dropping resistors or the control unit connector. What I am going to do is remove and clean all connections on the distributor, transistor ignition unit, and injectors. All my injector connectors were replaced about a year ago and I still have to replace the AFM connector. It looks good but the boot has deteriorated. I would like to dig into the transistor ignition unit and see what's going on there. I need to hunt down an OEM unit for testing. Anyone have a spare they would like to part with? I still believe there is a slight problem, but I think I'm on the right path. Thanks for all the inputs it's really helped. Ron

View Advert 1970 240z AM Radio and Antenna Switch FS Original AM radio with search feature and switch. From 09-70 240z. $1500 USD or best offer. Advertiser 240260280 Date 06/13/2019 Price $1,500.00 Category Parts for Sale

Woot! My yellow 240z was recently featured in the VTO Wheels Customer Spotlight! I was wondering why Alex wanted me to take some photos of the car.. Anyone notice the cat posing for the photo? His name is Mr Banks and will sign autographs. ? Thanks @VTOwheels Mike PS: One correction, I am running Tokico Illumina adjustable struts (it says I am running stock struts). p{ margin:10px 0; padding:0; } table{ border-collapse:collapse; } h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6{ display:block; margin:0; padding:0; } img,a img{ border:0; height:auto; outline:none; text-decoration:none; } body,#bodyTable,#bodyCell{ height:100%; margin:0; padding:0; width:100%; } .mcnPreviewText{ display:none !important; } #outlook a{ padding:0; } img{ -ms-interpolation-mode:bicubic; } table{ mso-table-lspace:0pt; mso-table-rspace:0pt; } .ReadMsgBody{ width:100%; } .ExternalClass{ width:100%; } p,a,li,td,blockquote{ mso-line-height-rule:exactly; } a[href^=tel],a[href^=sms]{ color:inherit; cursor:default; text-decoration:none; } p,a,li,td,body,table,blockquote{ -ms-text-size-adjust:100%; -webkit-text-size-adjust:100%; } .ExternalClass,.ExternalClass p,.ExternalClass td,.ExternalClass div,.ExternalClass span,.ExternalClass font{ line-height:100%; } a[x-apple-data-detectors]{ color:inherit !important; 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line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .headerContainer .mcnTextContent,.headerContainer .mcnTextContent p{ font-size:16px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .bodyContainer .mcnTextContent,.bodyContainer .mcnTextContent p{ font-size:16px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .footerContainer .mcnTextContent,.footerContainer .mcnTextContent p{ font-size:14px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } *|MC_PREVIEW_TEXT|* Customer Spotlight Mike Gholson of the Classic Zcar Club knows wheel fitment is key to getting the look that makes his car stand out. Mike came to VTO Wheels because he knew our fitment and customer service is the best in the industry. The VTO Classic 8 GTR 16"x7" wheels gives Mike's Z car a stylish finish, while the deeper lip gives a much more desirable and understated aggressive look. This yellow beauty is sitting on stock struts with Tokico springs that lower the car 1 inch. The VTO's are 0mm offset and wrapped in 205/55-16 BFG G-Force Sport 2 sticky rubber. No rubbing issues are reported, and the ride is said to be smooth and free of vibration. Thank you for your support, and please let VTO help you find the perfect fit for your next project, whatever the year, make, or model may be. Don't know what offset or bolt pattern to run? With us fitment doesn't have to be a guess! We will send you a wheel to test your fitment so you know that when you place an order, the fit will be perfect. Shop VTO Wheels Copyright © *|CURRENT_YEAR|* *|LIST:COMPANY|*, All rights reserved. *|IFNOT:ARCHIVE_PAGE|* *|LIST:DESCRIPTION|* Our mailing address is: *|HTML:LIST_ADDRESS_HTML|* *|END:IF|* Want to change how you receive these emails? You can update your preferences or unsubscribe from this list. *|IF:REWARDS|* *|HTML:REWARDS|* *|END:IF|*

"I know what I got"

ditto on a new pump, why trust it after sitting for two years, Personally I would get a new NISSAN pump, about 250$ but if the pump stops your are dead in the water, so I like OE.

Since you directly connected the pump to the battery and it didn't turn then the pump is dead. Just go get a new pump or try @psdenno's idea and give it a smack. Also, if you have the ability (air hose) try and blow out the metal fuel line (with the pump and fuel filter hoses disconnected of course.

I got married last week, so progress slowed down. Hopefully driving it this weekend. The e-brake is in. Basically attached right up. I used a simple C clip to hold it in. It doesn’t need it. But I thought it would help. I need to adjust it currently it too many clicks up, the goal is 5-6 the e brake calipers lock the wheels down crazy tight. I have installed the master. I found a write up on here about bench bleeding. I tried this method. I really liked it. Zero air left in. I’m going dot4 race fluid from stoptech. My favorite drive is a 10 mile 2k vertical hill climb to my local ski resort. Brakes get hot on the way down. I hate brake fluid. Hate it. Somehow I got some in my eye.

Just picked up a 72 this past weekend and i'm looking forward to tinkering. Matching #s, 1 owner, original plates, and a ton of history. It sat for almost 10 years and only being a block from the ocean means some surface rust in most places (see engine bay). Only 1 spot of significant rust I could find so far (tail end of the passenger side rail). Still runs, drives, and more importantly brakes! The previous owner also did a glass out paint job and redid the interior in 08 (I think they might have gone darker than the original blue and i think the seats and door panels aren't original (no buttons on seat and no strip along the top). Random question. The air filter housing is light blue. most of the ones I see are orange but this one has all the factory stickers on it. Is it original?

The urethane is harsher too and ride quality can suffer. A G35 has a much more refined suspension and is much quieter overall

Been there, done that!

btw I will guess the 4/2 came about like how they added 2 cylinders to an existing 4 to make the L24.

Are those new mustache bar mount bushings (the serrated ones)? If they are, where did you find them?

We are our worst critics . Looks like you are doing this at your own garage and not a paint booth . I can see how straight the doors are from the pics . I am retired now and still would have a hard time dedicating that much time( energy). I would like to work on Z ‘s in retirement for some fun and mad money for myself, but it’s still work at times.

Beautiful car!! So glad you have joined the crew and look forward to many interesting posts from you in your ownership of this gem. Magnificent paperwork! You've got a real keeper.

@240260280...clearly you are correct. I thought I had read 3/3 somewhere but clearly it is 4/2. Probably just an assumption I made with two casings / harnesses. Apologies for the incorrect info.

You could always make your own like AK260

I put that on my big screen and my dog watched every bit of it! He likes it? I do not.

Great photos and a beautiful Z @Mike I am looking at VTO wheels for the future.

Cliff, then try this one for a little variety, Dennis

I hate this song!

Nice! Looking forward to rocking my own VTO’s...

So paint is done and finally starting to put her back together.

Mike! This has been maaaajorly helpful information. Also, your wiring diagram shows me that I’ve got the right idea. However. You have a tach adapter in place in your schematic. Is this a necessary component in getting the car to run?? If so, this may in fact be my missing link. Thanks much!

The old single flange design would be a lot easier to replace (because you just press the old one out and press the new one in. The later two flanged design is a little more involved. This is what I did. First, I cut a bunch of slots in one of the flange ends with a thin cutting disk: Then, using a couple punches and a hammer, I peeled up the "petals" of the flanged lip. Worked my way around the bushing: Once those petals were peeled up, you can push the old bushing out of the bar and press the new bushing into place. No pics should be required for those two steps. In order to form the second retaining flange on the new bushing, I made a pair of press forming dies for the hydraulic press. Here's a pic of a new bushing and the dies I made. I made two dies to form the flange in two steps. First flaring step is a simple taper (on the left), and second step flattens the lip after the taper die has bottomed out: Here's another view of the dies. Preliminary taper form on the left, final form on the right.: Once the new bushing is pressed in place, I used the preliminary form to flare the metal outward: And then once the flare was formed, I switched to the final form die: And finished the flare flat into the retaining flange:

Yeah, that sounds painful, esp to an electrical guy like me.

FWIW, that shouldn't be a "wire around a nut" but an insulated ring terminal that seats under the nut...

Great conversation! How anal does it get over here at ClassicZ ? Or...is this a symptom of my "Low VIN" disease? How many great resources we have! Kats, you MUST make a DVD of your films! The scene shows exactly how fragile the early fuel doors and that plastic knob were. Notice how the door bounces? No spring. And notice how difficult it was to close the latch. I see that after a couple of fumbles, the knob closes in the North / South position. Confirm that, right-waist! I thought the "extra plate" was the spring plate also. Not the weld tab on the door. Over time, the weld tab pulls away from the door and rusts. Mine are all pulled away some. You bring up a good point, Mike. Did the S30 come equipped with the sprung door and the S30-S not? Big question.