Leaderboard

After playing around with my suspension setup and changing my mind a few times as to setting the dial on my adjustable Tokico Illumina struts, I got tired of broken and lost retaining pins for the strut tower covers and decided to fabricate an easy access port for the dial on the top of the rear strut. I used a 2.5" diameter screw cap and "neck" from a juice bottle (hard clear plastic) and adapted it to the strut tower cover. Took about an hour total time (and drinking tons of cranberry juice) but now I can dial in my rear struts as easily as my fronts now.

I think that access port will also be useful with the newly developed Koni Sport struts for the S30 being promoted by our pals at MSA (@Joseph@TheZStore) , which I think adjust in similar fashion as the Tokico Illuminas.

Damn talk about a good deal! Glad it all worked out Cliff---might cut into your nightlife budget a bit---but you'll still have the mirror years from now ---the headache and parched mouth from a big night out would only last a day or two at most.

OK, she is safely back home. The paint looks amazing, better than the pictures. Looking forward to finishing up the underside and then installing parts. The air intake ducts look amazing. Too bad no one will see them.

My my my how the world turns. Before I carried Zup's "pay it forward" mirror assembly to get the glass removed for installation into my car's housing I stopped by my local Nissan dealership to ask what he thought. The parts manager has taken me in like a bastard child of his. He looked up the mirror and wrote down the part number. Said they had 23 in Memphis if I broke Zup's and needed one, $115 plus tax was my price. I declined and he suggested the same glass shop I was going to use for the removal. They still have it. I just got a call from the parts guy, somehow he mistakenly ordered a mirror. Said he wrote down the P/N on his order pad and at the end of the day it got ordered. So now he has a brand new mirror assembly but if he sends it back he has to pay a restocking fee which we don't need to do. He's taken good care of me over the past few years for parts on my old Zs. I told him to keep it, I would buy it to keep the owner off our arse. $90 plus tax. I'll put the new one on when I fix the lock so I can go to see Arkansas's Jims at Chunkey Monkey's in Branson.

I've been looking for a project. I've been mostly looking at 4x4 old truck stuff. The other day a friend of mine asked me to help him move a 1984 veet that he just bought for $500. When we got there he mentioned there was a 240z there that the guy was also selling. I looked at the z took a few pictures and today the car is sitting in my garage. I had no idea my next project car was going to be a z car. I've always loved these cars. I was born in 1960, so the 1970 is just about the time I was starting to see and feel things. This car was one of my first loves. I've never drove one. This will be the first z I've ever driven. The man that owned it before me loved it. He drove it for years and then bought the 1984 vet and quit driving the z. It's been sitting covered for 15 years in his garage. He passed away and his son wanted the car gone. No problem. THe son also turned out to be somebody that recognized me from years ago. Our paths have passed in the past. I got in touch with Carl Beck. I knew very little about the car with the exception of how I fell in love with the car years ago. Carl provided me with enough information for me to make the decision to invest the $3500 in the car the seller was asking.

Very nice! The corks from Grey Goose are useful in many ways.

Once you get the drums off if you decide you need to replace the wheel cylinders you might find this thread of help. The wheel cylinders for that car are very expensive, but can be replaced with the much cheaper ones on the slightly later cars.

Comparison back of the solid emblem family. Kats

Hi Blue , thanks for the picture and your statement is very interesting, we need to discover it . Today I would like to show you this , A Fairlady-Z ‘s solid metal quarter emblem , an ultra early emblem . I have got this recently, and this is Right side quarter emblem as you can see “R “ on it . Attached pictures show the difference between hollowed metal emblem and solid metal emblem. I found the solid emblem is a little bit thicker than hollowed emblem. And it is so heavy to compare the hollowed emblem. I am impressed with this solid emblem is so clean and shiny, almost identical to the hollowed ones which are literally New In Box . I asked the seller if he has a solid Left quarter emblem, but he did not . As we already know , nearly 1000 Japanese Zs ( L20 and S20 models ) were produced by the end of Dec 1969 . This quantity is almost double of export S30s ( L24 model ) , but I cannot be optimistic, it is so hard to see the early production Fairlady Zs nowadays. Kats

You just won the lottery my friend, it looks like it is lovely condition and should be an easy clean up. They are lots of fun to drive.?

Well, this isn't Hybrid Z but welcome anyway! I don't think you will find a more knowledgeable and friendly group of people any where. This site (Classic Z Cars) is a treasure trove of essential info on rebuilding or maintaining your Z. We love pictures. Sometimes they tell us more than words do, so start by posting pics of your new pride and joy!

Lets hope the bill gets some traction - but then its CA and mindless choices run rampant. In Texas we at least have some enlightened regs: A vehicle over 25 years old requires only a safety inspection for regular registration. The vehicle can be used as a daily driver. A vehicle over 25 years old is eligible for Antique Auto registration, requiring no inspection, the registration fee is $10/year. The vehicle cannot be used as a DD, "should" only be used for parades, club events, exhibitions, ...etc.

It will be interesting to see the results comparing piston lift to air flow. Both are different parameters that are related. Piston lift due to suction due to air flow can be different in each carb for the same airflow due to piston binding or lack of sealing or needle setting. If you can get your hands on a wide band O2 sensor, then run the car just on the front carb, then on the back carb and compare a/f for each. It should be ~29 for each.

If the drums have lots of wear, that produces a ridge of metal that makes it very difficult to remove them. It gets much easier if you get the adjusters to move.

As @Patcon suggested work on the adjusters and try to make sure they are retracted. Keep it up with the block of hardwood and big f'in hammer. They can be a bear to remove, but should eventually break free. I hope you don't damage the fins--the finned cast aluminum drums are another neat aspect of our Z's.

Can you get to and turn the adjusters?

I had a quick look in the parts manual for AU market cars and I see European (non European) Automatic and even Air-Conditioner fitted cars had different spring rates. Bit hard to make sense of it all to be honest. I see mention of spring rates, but not height.

Welcome @z8987 ! Tantalizing photo! Hopefully just the start of your Z story. If Carl steered you, you got sage advice regarding Z cars. A $3500.00 entry fee into this world is unheard of these days, so congratulations on your purchase. From the photo it looks to be a really nice start. Please post more. (your first project is to adjust the wipers to a proper park position---) Judging by what you have said, the Z may be among the best bucks you could spend to return to a remembered moment in your life. Again---Welcome---you've got a lot to enjoy ahead!

We just use our buffing compound and orbital buffer with a foam pad for plastic lenses. No prep and they polish right up... For rubber, vinyl, and plastic - Mequiar's Hyper Dressing.

I think that the tip of the plunger is called the pintle and it's often protected by a pintle cap. You can buy the pintle caps separately. I think that this link below, Z1Motorsports, might be a "Rick-roll" link. The header shows "never gonna give you up" but I have sound muted. Beware. Not sure why they call it a pintle. There's supposed to be a gudgeon involved. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pintle https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-rail-and-injectors/z1-motorsports/fuel-injector-cap-early-style-p-3225.html

Forget the dash... Are those un-rusted original frame rails? Don't drive it like you stole it. You totally stole it. Just don't drive it like that. It'll give it away.

Now's our chance to be heard. Maybe this time....we can only hope there will be a change California Bill to Exempt Pre-1983 Vehicles from Emissions Inspections Introduced Legislation (A.B. 210) has been introduced to exempt motor vehicles prior to the 1983 model year from emissions inspection requirement. Current law requires the biennial testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. The bill awaits consideration by the Assembly Transportation Committee. CALIFORNIA BILL TO EXEMPT PRE-1983 VEHICLES FROM EMISSIONS INSPECTIONS INTRODUCED

Fixed it. Thanks.

Thanks Zup for coming through with a door......awesome folks on this site! I’ll start a thread for this project next week. It ought to be fun! Thanks again Zup for going out of your way to help a fellow member. Guy

Luckily I am Electro Optronics tech and have the pins/skills to rebuild this. Just disappointed when things like this happen. Make-work projects that should be straightforward.

@outlawswine A small thing, many of these threads get broken links in them months or years later when the pictures are no longer hosted where ever (photobucket sucks) If you upload them to the site. The administrators will make sure they last and others can learn from these threads with the pictures still present...

Not sure if this program cover has been posted previously. If it hasn't been - Enjoy! If it has been - Here it is again! A Porsche friend sent it to me because of the 914 pictured, not realizing I also have a Z. Dennis

Run! Run!

Pics from 1972. Got tailgated at a stop light....went back with black laquer.

Then there is this: I have found no reference to the piece of wiring harness that would connect to the main (by the glove box), and extend thru the engine room to the fan (which is shown mounted to the fan sheetmetal bulkhead in front of the radiator). In addition, as so ably noted by Mr.O, one wire is hot, and the other is switched, implying that there is a relay (and its harness) involved in the fan installation. Of course, the likely scenario would have the in (water) line switch (shown in the diagram) connected to this relay for automatic temp-sensitive operation; that would require yet another piece of harness... Interesting mystery, eh?

Yes, I have given up trying to figure that out. Datsun/Nissan had 4 different part numbrrs from 12-1974 through to the last S30 in 78, but JECS seemed to have used their own numbering system when you look at the MSA site. I have four units and I have run three of them om my car and they all worked fine. I had to jig the fuel switch to run two of them. It might be a case of parts swapping and JECS just keeping track of it that way. Or minor improvements for emmisions etc. The 22680-N4202SV is the Bosch unit and I have seen it referred to as the A31-000-050 I have a A31-000-427 (p/n:22680-P6600) from a European 280ZX na from 1981. Those numbers don't show up anywhere on the two lists for US models. So if you look at the 280ZX na version as well, the list is extensive.

I have never seen one or heard of anyone seeing one. It seems to coinside with the change to the N47 head. My guess, it's probably prep werk, but never made it further than that. The developers probably thought, "if it becomes a problem, we can offer it as an option or do a recall, and the harness will be ready." I think trying to find one would be like trying to find a woolly mammoth;)

In the original post are two 280Z quarters. Which year 280Z? They changed about half way through the 280Z series. They might have been when they changed the bumpers. Not really fare comparing them with 240Z quarters. I don't know what 280Z quarters are worth, but they probably won't fetch as much as 240Z panels. Won't be far behind them in price either. Can you read anything on the white label on the last photo? Just because it's black, doesn't guarantee it's nos. Still look really neat. Goodluck with your sale.

A while back I cleaned my 280Z fuel pump and replaced the o-rings. Its running ok and I compared it to an old reserve pump. The reserve pump delivered about 75% of the flow compared to the one in the car. Since these pumps are getting harder to find in good condition I decided to take a closer look at the spare pump. The outside looked shocking, corroded and rusty so I cleaned and painted it to make it look respectable. After opening it up Im wondering it was worth the trouble cleaning and keep it as an emergency unit. The inside is showing a lot more signs of wear compared to the one in the car. There are possabilities to improve it. I was thinking of making a new center section (intermediate part) and maybe new rollers. The inner ring of this part has vertical lines which reduce performance some and make it noisy in operation. These parts are made from hardened steel, maybe steel type S890 (890MPa tear strength) would be suitable. Not sure what it would cost to make. The inlet end plate could be surfaced 0,1mm to remove most of the wear. That would increase the crush on the o-ring, but it should be ok. That should improve the output and reduce the noise a little. Opinions welcome. Here are some photos of the worn parts and a drawing of the part for possible replacement. PumpRing1_Rev0.pdf This post has been promoted to an article

I wonder if this is where the "lost" chassis HLS-00009 to HLS-00012 went? Geneva certainly had one in March however later production Z's were arriving in NA by then so it may not have been one of the "lost". For "very" early Z's to be in Europe, one would expect an arrival of Sept/Oct 1969 like in North America.