ensys

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  1. Mr.Grit: Well, you've certainly been given a whole bunch of issues to attack, eh? That's called "mental dazzle", and is the enemy of a methodical approach. If I may be so bold, I would suggest that since you know the injectors work just fine, the logical place to begin is with the Cold Start Valve. When you look it up in the Shop Manual, you will see that it is itself, a single injector mounted in the intake tract before the manifold. It's job is to act as an electronic choke that enriches the starting mixture for a "cold" (a term that has more to do with engine temperature than air temperature) engine. It is controlled by the Thermotime switch, much like a choke pull-off. Your job is to first see whether or not it is squirting at startup, usually by dismounting it (still connected electrically) and aiming it into a jar while someone starts the car, as the Manual directs. If it squirts (which I doubt), you can check it off the To-Do list. If not, the fun begins. The Manual will guide the way. Bon chance
  2. Well, I'm no "Pro" either, but.... Generally speaking, a head is considered flat if it is within a few thousands across opposite corners. Presumably, if he wants to cut .005", the amount of "out" is likely on the order of something between .001 and .003 and he wants, of course, to cut thru it to "flat". Were it I, keeping in mind that once cut, you can't put it back, and that every cut is another chance for an error that can easily exceed the presumed current amount of "out", I would demure the risk, figuring that torquing it up would pull things right. Besides, be aware that every head cut complicates something; in this case, the cam timing. If you must have an increase in the C.R., I would suggest it would be better worked out with pistons for more control. As for the seat condition, it would seem your machinist has a talent for understatement. While I don't know everything that can happen to a valve seat, that is certainly the most remarkable situation I have ever seen. As I don't believe it's possible for a solid seat to vertically shear off an outer segment against an alloy socket, I cannot help but deduce that some mope has tried to shim a seat into an enlarged/poorly cut pocket. And from the look of things, it seems very possible (even if a "guide-centric" cutter was used on the seat) that the valve that lives there has been hitting the seat off-center since the bodge was perpetrated. Since it would seem he has not noticed as much, I would suggest a second opinion regarding valve/guide wear and square. In any case, this will take some talent to rectify, and you might want to wait for the outcome before making any decisions on other operations. Ironically, the owner who commissioned this bit of whimsy, probably trusted his machinist to make all the decisions. $.02 from the peanut gallery.
  3. While this is evolving toward the zietgiest of trophy shows, I would digress to the original question; "why me?" I would guess that the judges saw what was evident even in the low res foto, i.e. the surface texture (not the color). Remember, the covers are cast into a finished metal mold, so the surface of the cast piece should be as tight and smooth as the mold. One could presumably re-create an out-of-the-mold surface after abrasion by sanding, burnishing, etc., but then there is the issue of color. Of course, it is presumption on my part, but I should think the only way to avoid this "overprep" pitfall, would be to refrain from any abrasion treatment in the first place. I should think a more productive approach would be a chemical treatment that would homogenize the color without effecting the surface. Just $.02 from the "I never show" gallery.
  4. Speaking of options.... Were there any of the very nicely fabbed headlight covers (glass(?) with chrome edging(?)) from the Factory? Maybe as a JDM item? They'd be almost worth drilling holes for (if they were verifyably Factory). Just curious.
  5. "now am not getting enough fluid to the rear brakes" While bleeding? In operation? Did you ever get the second piston out of the Master Cylinder? All things considered, have you given any thought to installing a fully refreshed MC? Just a thought.
  6. <bump> Still looking...
  7. Hello, All: I'm looking for two OEM FI hose clamps to replace damaged ones on my '77 280Zs very original engine. While aftermarket versions are working for now, I consider them a temporary solution. Thank you for your attention.
  8. A casual poke thru the Parts Manual shows that the 280 oil pan part no. was first used in the fifth mo. of '71.
  9. Now folks, show some respect for what may be a very valuable car. According to the owner, you are looking at the world's only Front Wheel Drive Z. Ought to be worth a fortune.
  10. I'm showing my age of course, but trying to buy a car off the web reminds me of Blanch's signature line from "Streetcar Named Desire", that "I have always depended on the kindness of strangers", a metaphor for tragic naivete. Ya gotta evaluate in the first person to do yourself right. Take the Z that started this thread. Only a personal visit could validate the possibility that it's wearing more original paint than just in the engine room and at the tail/around the hatch. Heck, my orig. '77 looks that good with a wash and a wax. It's possible. One might think curiosity alone would be worth a magnet and a good look at the underside of that puppy. So maybe the seller is as honest as Trump; you can still make a better deal with first-hand info. You'd be surprised how many sharp-dealers will cave in the face of the obvious. And after all, you've got one thing going for you; most rainbows for pot-o-gold cars end in California. But you won't find it sitting behind a computer. Just a thought....
  11. I have always used the same product as the Factory (asphalt-based undercoat) because: - It is an effective, durable, and workable undercoating that seldom separates from the substrate when properly prepped or painted. - It blends well when patching or expanding the coverage. - It maintains the look of originality. - Application is nearly foolproof; just wash and let dry as prep. Also cleans up with WD-40. - The good stuff is still cheap.
  12. No "lace-on cover" there. Looks like it (whatever it is) takes a pretty common 6-bolt adapter.
  13. Mr.Z650: Well, since you asked... Disclaimer: these decisions are highly subjective and depend upon one's personal vision of use. I chose to continue the Z's role as a driver, biased toward open road work. Clearly, not a "boy racer" solution. For joints, I used names (like Moog) that I know and that provided service ports, i.e. "grease zerks", to provide safe operation and extended service lives. I replaced the ball joints, strng. rod ends, and top strut bearings, whether they needed it or not (last front end re-build was about 100K mi. ago (none actually "needed" replacement, thanks, I reckon, to regular servicing)). I replaced the old KYBs with new KYBs because they worked well with good control, lasted a long time, and remain very cost-effective. Interestingly, these were not used up yet either. New rubber bushings all around (particularly on the compliance rod ends, as I think some "compliance" is important here on a road car), with the exception of the lower control arm's pivot bushes. Urethane here because that's all one can use with the adjustable pivots. New rubber boots on the struts, and bellows for the steering rack. The top strut bushes (snubbers) did not require attention. I kept the original springs as they were not compromised by age/usage, and I like the one coil cut I put on them about 100K mi. ago. That's pretty much it, I guess. Of course, all the suspension pieces were cleaned and re-coated for preservation prior to re-assembly. All now good to go for another 200K mi. That was my approach.
  14. Mr.650: Given the car's age and condition (by now you realize the mileage is likely more like 130K, right?), and since you figure to perform tweaks that will require extensive disassembly anyway, it would be wise to rebuild all of the front suspension, replacing all the joints, and probably some of the bushings Helpful tip: whenever available, always use joints that can be serviced (and do so regularly). "Sealed for Life" guarantees a short one. Just an observation... PS: I can't say exactly how much I've lowered my '77, but I've been quite happy with 205/65 15s for quite some years now.
  15. " Can't believe a mechanic thought it might be $138K miles". Frankly, I'm with the mechanic. I find it improbable that in the first, apparently casual, 38K mi,. the oil press gauge would fail. Even more so that after mulling his options, he would elect to add an aftermarket gauge on his young and still newish Z. Further, if it were I, I'd be wondering about the paint thickness too. I think a leisurely exam of the undercarriage would be illuminating. Anecdotally, add this kind of moral ambiguity to the bald-faced baloney from the seller and the peanut gallery, how is it wrong to think life on the web is more s**t than Shinola. What is that old saying about a fool and his money? $.02 from a different peanut gallery.