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ensys

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About ensys

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  1. ensys

    Bumper rams

    Mr.EuroDat: My good Sir; your thoughtful shots are exactly what I need to effect repairs. I can't thank you enough for taking the trouble. The left one (which has a different bolt-row spread, and thus, different wall config as your fotos clearly show) was the particular issue of concern to me. And the flange edge shots are particularly helpful. Again, my thanks.
  2. ensys

    Bumper rams

    All: I am working to straighten out the effects of a long-ago rear-ender, and the issue comes down to the "before" configuration of the rear bumper rams on a '77 280Z (see fotos) . I think that the right (passenger) side ram bracket is the least deformed, and therefore is the closest model of original configuration, but it would help a great deal to have an unmolested unit on which to base remedial actions. So, can anyone out there offer a comparable shot of a pristine rear bumper ram to provide a model for restorative action? This would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  3. ensys

    parts wanted, parts for sale

    Are the louvers plastic or aluminum? How do they attach?
  4. Mr.Cpt.Obvious: I would note that you can't have it both ways; its either round bottom or round ends (now wouldn't that be an interesting "key" to machine with precision... imagine trying to extract that puppy at Factory fit specs). Mr.ZedHead: And when that end bolt either loses its clamp or the pulley develops sufficient eccentricity in rotation so as to develop tangenal rotational stresses... Well, I believe Mr.rcb280z has graphic evidence of the peril. There is a reason, beyond a passion for precision, that mfgrs. provide such close tolerances in any keyed assembly. It is the last line of defense for rotational continuity. Of course, splines (longitudinal or radial) would do the best job of rotational lock, but they are soo expensive to cut en masse, as opposed to a simple keyway cut. If it was just a matter of locaton, dimples/scribe marks in the parts, or perhaps a shallow longitudinal kerf and inside spur, would do the trick.
  5. Mr.rcb280z: First, the Woodruff key has a round bottom to fit into the only slot (round bottom) that can be machined into a crank (ever see a rotary tool that cuts a square-bottomed slot?). When assembled at the Factory, a key that was carefully machined to be tight, was snugly fitted into the slot. This is why every description of its removal demonstrates the need for force and finesse. If you're lucky, you'll find that the new key cannot be fitted properly without removing the front cover. If not, even the correct key will drop in easily. If it does, it means that the once parallel sides of the slot are now not, as one or both have become sloped, assuring further problems in the future. Theoretically, the key should never have come out easily in the last two operations in the first place. Perhaps the failed balancer pulley induced unusual stress on the key, causing enough wear on the pulley slot to hammer the key regularly. Again theoretically, the key should absorb the wear, as they are typically a touch softer than the crank they are fitted to. So, harsh as it sounds, I hope you will be cursing the need to pull that cover; the alternatives to anything more than a kiss-and-a-promise repair get ugly fast. Good luck.
  6. ensys

    Info needed: Block brackets

    Mr.HS30-H: Aren't those fine illustrations; makes one wonder what Futu-whoever used to make the copies found on their website.... carved wood blocks perhaps. As a bonus, your first fig. also introduces a third config of the lower-left block A/C bracket that while different from that in my fig.3, both diag. share the same tensioner pulley location (but not pulley brackets(!)) high on the right side, just above the water pump. Curiously, the bracket in my fig. looks the most (tho not identical) like the one in my 280, which mounts, as near as I can tell, the very same tension pulley bracket (as in my fig.3) below the distributor on the left side. The curious thing is that the block bracket in my fig.3 looks to be the only one that might mount the A/P bracket by its two lower lugs (tho I haven't a clue where its top third lug attaches... besides the lack of a threaded boss, seems like the breather pipe is in the way), tho its anbody's guess if it (the A/P bracket) would fit between the A/C compressor's top two mounting lugs. Mean while, I have no idea how the very early block bracket (shown in my fig.1 and your fig.2) "figures" into this at all. It seems to be getting murkier instead of clearer. Theories, anyone? PS: Does anyone out there have a foto of the A/P mounted to the block?
  7. ensys

    Info needed: Block brackets

    Mr.HS30-H: Probably a glitch in my less-than-cutting-edge browser, but as your references are neither illustrated nor active, I can only regret missing the potential enlightenment. So, it would seem that between '73 and '74 one could have both an Air Pump (per regs) and A/C. Of course, this still begs the question about where/how the A/P bracket attached to the block, with or without A/C. Does anyone have something to offer about the square bracket in my fig.1? This doesn't look like it could mount any kind of compressor that I've seen, and it doesn't look as if it could accommodate the A/P's triangular bracket either.
  8. ensys

    Info needed: Block brackets

    Well, Gentlemen, it's my pesky curiosity that keeps buggin' me about that transition period between the (presumable) intro of A/C in '73 and the end of the Air Pump in '74, not to mention the curious assortment of brackets thru this period. First, there is the bracket shown on the L24-26 block diag. (fig.1, hopefully... first time trying to integrate images... fingers crossed) Then there is the bracket shown in the diag. with the Air Pump to '74 (fig. 2)... And then there is the bracket shown in the diag. with the A/C from '73 (fig. 3), which would seem to indicate a pulley for the Air Pump shown above the compressor (part no. 173)... Now, if Mr.esmit208 is correct, it would mean that for a year, A/C equipped cars would not pass Fed and Calif. smog tests, a condition I can't help finding untenable. As noted above, fig.3 seems to indicate that A/P and A/C co-existed, tho I haven't the foggiest where the A/P bracket was spudded onto the block. And I still don't get what/how the odd "orig." bracket in fig. 1 was used. Perhaps my confusion is the price of geezerhood....
  9. At the risk of exposing more of my considerable ignorance, I would pose the following: Working with the well-known on-line parts manual, I have come up against an issue of production timing that has me confused, and I am hoping for some enlightenment from this forum. My puzzlement is centered around the period between the start of A/C in Aug ’73 and the end of the Air Pump in Aug. ’74 (dates as per diagrams… are these good?). Part I: Since both apparently occupied the same space (the front lower left side of the block), how were there Air Pump equipped cars provided with A/C? Part II: It is not apparent from the diagram for the Air Pump just how the 3-point bracket shown is attached to the 4-point mounting provided by the block. Part III: The bracket shown for that corner on the (L24-L26) block diagram, looks neither like that shown on the A/C compressor diagram, nor like it would accommodate the A/P bracket, nor like it would mount any kind of compressor. What was its function and when? My thanks for your attention.
  10. I believe the biggest problem is the tail pipe. Possible fixes could be an extended tailpipe, one that curves downward, or one that turns to the side. Any of these would direct the exhaust out of the turbulence at the tail.
  11. ensys

    Alternator I.D.

    Well, I stand corrected. I actually gleaned the list of alternators offered from the Parts Manual. As this is at odds with the FSM (as implied by my Service Manual and ably illustrated by the excerpt above), I wondered about the possibilities of unknown substitution.
  12. ensys

    Alternator I.D.

    The FSM cites 4 possible alternators on a '77 280Z (a 40amp, 50amp, and 2 60amps), but I cannot find any external markings on my unit, which I believe to be original. So, I am wondering how I can tell which unit is installed. I would appreciate some enlightenment. Thanks.
  13. ensys

    Spare tire rim question

    Anybody know for sure what are good donors for a 15", Z-bolt pattern space-saver spare?
  14. Having just finished this operation on a 280, I can state that all the threads are conventional. And, it's a matter of taste I suppose, but many think the lever type of tapered pin joint removal is superior to the old pickle fork. Harbor Freight has a serviceable version of this tool also.
  15. Two 5-speeds; how posh. For those of us in the Heartland, where old cars in a junkyard are but a fond memory, this is called an embarrassment of riches, for that overdrive gear can be put to very good use in a Z. It allows one to take good advantage of the six's easy availability of good low-speed torque that makes relaxed cruising, without stress, between 2 and 3K rpm in any situation. Around town, I am fond of 2K and skip-shifting to get around. There is nothing like an inline 6.
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