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ensys

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  1. " Can't believe a mechanic thought it might be $138K miles". Frankly, I'm with the mechanic. I find it improbable that in the first, apparently casual, 38K mi,. the oil press gauge would fail. Even more so that after mulling his options, he would elect to add an aftermarket gauge on his young and still newish Z. Further, if it were I, I'd be wondering about the paint thickness too. I think a leisurely exam of the undercarriage would be illuminating. Anecdotally, add this kind of moral ambiguity to the bald-faced baloney from the seller and the peanut gallery, how is it wrong to think life on the web is more s**t than Shinola. What is that old saying about a fool and his money? $.02 from a different peanut gallery.
  2. Cowabunga! The BIC pen gambit is a fine bit of inspiration. Sometimes the obvious solutions are the hardest to ken. Thanks Dennis. Ah, Mr.Kwin; nice to hear from a kindred spirit. As most of my posts were blown out in a zillion small pieces, I will have to make the most of the pen idea. The only issue might be plastic type, but I've just re-done the pesky console break using an Oatley multi-blend billed as good for ABS, PVC, etc., so we will see. So, its off to Office Depot for a few BIC sticks. Still cheaper than the rods I bought, and no careful drilling req'd. Now, if I can find the right diameter of thin wall tubing to sheath the posts (to prevent cracking when threading the first time), I'll have every base covered. On a related point, I set out to straighten the tall side of the console that had developed a very wavy edge that I figure induced additional stress on the short side where the breaks developed. It took some fair heat (handle with care), but I got it straightened out before re-gluing the opposite side. Incidentally, don't underestimate the ashtray frame's part in maintaining the console's geometry around the hole.. Thanks one and all for getting into this and for the excellent suggestions.
  3. That's roughly my plan, all right. Tho I don't figure to surgically remove the vertical bulkhead extension behind the seats, as tempting as the thought might be. Originality, and all that. Plus, it will keep loose luggage from striking the seatbacks. Also, I'm looking for a skinny spare on a 15" wheel to get the overall dia. closer to that of the road wheels. This will not fit into the well for a flat floor of course, but will occasion shorter (bolt-in) supports/belt mounts and vertical partition and at the edge of the spare. This will require new carpet pieces, so I figure to do edged cuts for the spare lid and on the actual floor over the bin lids. So again, anyone know where a fellow could get a pair of the Factory bin lids these days? Any thoughts on a fair price for them?
  4. That's roughly my plan, all right. Tho I don't figure to surgically remove the vertical bulkhead extension behind the seats, as tempting as the thought might be. Originality, and all that. Plus, it will keep loose luggage from striking the seatbacks. Also, I'm looking for a skinny spare on a 15" wheel to get the overall dia. closer to that of the road wheels. This will not fit into the well for a flat floor of course, but will occasion shorter (bolt-in) supports/belt mounts and vertical partition and at the edge of the spare. This will require new carpet pieces, so I figure to do edged cuts for the spare lid and on the actual floor over the bin lids. So again, anyone know where a fellow could get a pair of the Factory bin lids these days? Any thoughts on a fair price for them?
  5. The "fuel capacity" thing is correct (a real surprise for web info). The parts manual clearly shows the difference in the spare tire indentation in the top of the two tanks. I'm not sure about the "extra reinforcing" part, but the change prompted a vertical rise behind the seats and some bolt-on vertical risers (at the front of the spare well and a couple-four bent metal posts that also anchor the luggage straps) to support the new false floor. Oh yeah, and the change occasioned the loss of 5 or 6 cu. ft. of usable storage in the back. I've been trolling around for a "skinny" emergency spare that would allow me to reclaim much of the lost volume above the carpet, not to mention the use of the now-buried cubbies behind the front bulkhead. Speaking of which; anyone know a source of the original metal cubby lids? The aftermarket offerings generally suck.
  6. The repair of the first break by the ash tray actually went well (from some years ago), owing to the piece of compatible plastic I used for the bridging backing. The second, not so much so, as I couldn't come up with another good backing piece (a hunk of a poly-something battery case, as I recall) in my garage . The piece left a very clear impression in all the cyclo-crazy glue and epoxy that I used. The disappointment (an befuddlement) stems from the fact that all that adhesive did not hold the break together. I'm thinking to try roughing the piece up, maybe drill a few small holes, if I can't come up with another piece of styrene, since it seems unlikely that I will find a glue that holds both. I can see the merit of the fiberglas mat, but I would like something with some more body; that run past the ash tray hole is the weakest spot on the console body and needs all the strength it can get. But the Oatley adhesive looks promising. I'm still working out a strategy for the lid's shattered screw posts. Maybe I can find some ABS rod somewhere....
  7. The lid is original to the car and is shown in the parts manual, albeit rather casually. The lid is listed as one piece, as is the torsion rod hinge assembly and the latch (which is actually 3 pieces). To the best of my knowledge, there is no repro available; only highly modified replacements. While it was the broken screw posts that prompted the investigation, it's OCD that prompts an attempted "repair" of this original part. I did cruise evilbay for a while before buying a replacement lid that the seller pinkie-swore was in "very good" condition. Of course, it was not; in fact, it was worse than the original piece, not to mention the missing bits.. Well, we all agree that the Z's hard plastic parts are a styrene (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene). While ABS to ABS adhesives are available (tho repairing (with strength) the two breaks in the console body is proving tricky), bonding to non-ABS repair parts is an issue that I have not licked yet. I reckon I need to find different materials.... I'm open to more adhesive suggestions. I thank you for your attention.
  8. Subject: early '77 280Z. Today's Query is a multi-parter... - Any opinions about whether the console and it's armrest/lid shell are of a Styrene plastic? - Has anyone ever felt the need, by necessity ("stripped" screws no longer holding the bottom finisher (a not-Styrene) to the top (Styrene) shell) or OCD urge, to disassemble the console armrest/lid? - Were you crestfallen to discover that most (especially those for the lid hinges) of the top shell's (Styrene) cast-in screw socket posts, were broken/shattered hulks of their former configuration? - Has anyone attempted repair/replacement? That worked? - If so, would anyone in this narrow class of dedicated self-abusers, care to share the secrets of their success? Please be specific regarding technique and adhesives. I thank you for your attention. PS: An Observation/Rumination: There may well be an object lesson here, about why attending to cars older than the '70s, is more often a more rewarding experience, non-Pro fiddle-wise, than those of more difficult materials and technologies that followed. Bonus Bore: Are future Cars-of-Our-Youth geeks doomed to embracing what few Overpriced, Not-Front-Drivers, Not-Station-Wagons, that remain? Will there be a surge of appreciation for the very many fine Pre-(personal)Historic crocks that will have become Estate fodder? Will a Journeyman coder be able to afford anything worth driving/saving? Wondering/Wandering minds want to know....
  9. All: Well, this new first-hand evidence is certainly a compelling demonstration of the pitfalls of visuals over the web. The first fotos lead me astray regarding the actual hue of the blue, I reckon (tho the jury may still be out regarding the undercarriage...). So maybe it wasn't Col. Mustard in the Library with the lead pipe after all. However, I will reserve a final bark up this tree until after the car's first good wash, over and under. Still, spot on or off the mark, the exercise was an interesting diversion from the same old, same old.
  10. Mr.grannyknot: With all due respect, Sir, I'm not sure I get your point. Even taking into account the florescent lighting and the iffy quality of the foto, the only thing i can say for sure is what the color shown isn't; it is not the same color as the blue on the exterior of the Z under discussion, paint code notwithstanding. Whether or not the color you show is the same color as on the interior tunnel is moot; the point is that the exterior and interior colors do not match. I attach a shot of my 200K mi. 280 to demonstrate the relevance of this point. The relevance of the second foto is completely lost on me. As I noted in my last post, my deductive conclusion remains only that the undercarriage clearly shows more than 350mi., without trying to predict the true mileage on the chassis (I attach a shot of my 280 (again, 200K mi.) to demonstrate the futility of trying to guess a true mileage based on visible condition alone). My first guess was based on the idea that the odometer belonged to the subject vehicle; I believe my theory about the dash and its instruments negates that preliminary mileage supposition without discrediting the original assumption (more than 350mi). It is a fine mystery indeed.
  11. First, Clarification: I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade. But there is a rather interesting conundrum here, and I never could resist a good mystery. Anyone ever play "Clue"? Now, I realize this is a lot like the blind men and the elephant, but somehow the limited clues make things all the more interesting. I checked and found I was wrong about the exhaust shielding thing; that was only on Cal. 280s like mine. However, the exhaust pipe looks awfully fresh in those surroundings, and with a finish that looks more aftermarket than Factory. On the other hand, I am confident in stating that all 280s were sprayed on the interior (including the tunnel) with the body color, and barring a misleading color rendition, the ash tray pocket seen at the top of the tunnel is not blue, nor is the flat area in front of the shifter. I am also confident that the undercarraige shots clearly indicate a fair number of miles on the chassis. The roll bar and its fixing bolt head, as well as the forward faces of the susp. arms are definitely not just muddy. Going to the interior again, the steering wheel, the seat covers, and the shift boot show the kind of dust consistent with that found on the engine and exterior, while the rear carpet and tower vinyl look very fresh. And so does the spotless, blemish-free dash and its very, very clean gauge lenses. Now, the fact is, that there is no reason to remove the center air grills to replace a radio. But one would have to do it to install that flawless dashboard. I'm inclined to propose that the 350mi probably came with the dashboard, that was not on this car when it left the Factory. The whole paint issue is fascinating. It will be interesting to see what the first good wash reveals. I can hardly wait for more clues
  12. "If something looks too good to be true...." No offense, but I see something else again in the available fotos. Between the re-paint (look at the ash tray pocket on the tunnel, always the exterior color), the road rash on the leading face of the suspension, and the discoloration of the exhaust (and where is its heat shielding), my dough's on 100,350mi. Another $.02 from the peanut gallery.
  13. Would I be correct to assume that the end being pried is that at the door trailing (latch) end, and if so, then Step 1 would be to remove the window frame above the door? Thanks.
  14. RE: '77 280Z Gentle Readers: I need to understand the procedure for gently removing the door's upper chrome moulding (w/squeegee), to be accomplished without (with the emphasis on "without") any damage to the existing (in this case, original) paint on the door or surrounding elements. As I understand it, there are no actual fasteners involved, and that the moulding mounts with clips. Can it be done with the lowered window in place, or must it be removed from the door? Would it help to cut off the original (and now ossified) rubber squeegee? What about the inner fuzzy strip? Must the window or door card be removed? A couple of the few "first-time" efforts still left to me on the Old Z Drvr, and I am loathe to cause any damage while I replace some perished soft parts on the doors. Your suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  15. RE: Happy Ending As I stood on the threshold of seizing recent opportunities, I stubbornly said to mySelf; "Self, one more time". So I donned my HAZMAT gear to troll the turgid nooks and crannies of my overstuffed garage... And lo and behold, there they were, in plainer sight than I care to admit, wrapped in an unexpected guise still fresh in their last coat of paint, and chuckling to themselves over their cruel joke. Thus, my search is absolved by the return of the prodigal wipers To those who troubled to offer suggestions/opportunities, my thanks. Stout Lads. Semi-interesting footnote: My Original wiper arms are of the configuration (side-post pivot) shown in the FSM, but which is rarely seen in the wild, aparently. Even the web Parts Manual shows a blade-to-receiver joint to the head. Who is crazy, or is it just another reality shift.
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