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About ensys

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    America's Auto Heartland

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  1. ensys

    Fan Quiz

    Then there is this: I have found no reference to the piece of wiring harness that would connect to the main (by the glove box), and extend thru the engine room to the fan (which is shown mounted to the fan sheetmetal bulkhead in front of the radiator). In addition, as so ably noted by Mr.O, one wire is hot, and the other is switched, implying that there is a relay (and its harness) involved in the fan installation. Of course, the likely scenario would have the in (water) line switch (shown in the diagram) connected to this relay for automatic temp-sensitive operation; that would require yet another piece of harness... Interesting mystery, eh?
  2. ensys

    Fan Quiz

    All: This has been very informative, indeed. I too, am surprised by the location of the stub outs; I also was looking in the engine room for them, since the parts manual image of the fan didn't show a very long harness. Very curious. On the plus side, it promises to simplify my re-tasking wiring quite a bit. Tho my Calif. car w/A.C. had no such fan, I still think it was intended to address heat issues, particularly in urban situations (tho admittedly, it would be useless to combat heat soak). Still, it was offered; perhaps the key is "optional", and was born as a potential remedy for disgruntled customers in particularly hot climes. So, would it be correct to assume that no one has ever seen one installed?
  3. ensys

    Fan Quiz

    So I am wondering about the aux. electric cooling fan for the ('77) 280Z. - Most references call the fan "optional"; any opinions about how frequently 280s went out the Factory door with this fan mounted on the radiator? - Or was the fan more often an after-purchase, dealer installed kind of thing. - And now, the $64 question: exactly where are the two connectors for the fan to be found on the stock harness? Thanks for looking.
  4. ensys


    Well folks, I am still looking for blanking plates, both for the console's vertical upper group: - for the 45mm x 29mm "Seat Belts" hole (same as hole on the other end). - for the 23mm x 29mm center hole. Thanks
  5. ensys


    Mr.zKars: PM sent (I think).
  6. ensys


    Well, if one is picky, the issues of texture, edge finish, and attachment make a respectable fabrication unlikely. The blanking plate offers the best opportunity for modification that looks like it belongs without making an irreversible change to originality. Speaking of blanking plates, I find I also need the square one in the middle of the same grouping. Thanks.
  7. ensys


    All Today's adventure in Parts Hunting starts at the center console of a '77 280Z. Attached thereto is a "Fasten Seat Belt" light fixture, located on the upper vertical panel, just below the radio. It is this fixture that is the subject of the following questions: Hope no.1: Was there, in any model, an instance of a blanking plate for that hole size? If so, does anyone have one they would part with? Hope no.2: Does anyone have a "Seat Belt" fixture housing (bulb holder not required) they would part with? Hopefully,
  8. ensys

    Rust Advice 78 280z

    Mr.Patcon: Thanks for the attempt to translate, but in fact (and as illustrated in my story), "looks" are not the primary criteria at all, tho they do have a place in the equation. It is the experience of many people that with old cars, a long and often uncertain past should be enough to make one think twice all by itself, but add the element of a disreputable appearance, and refurbishment becomes a no-brainer. Especially if other tasks provide the easy opportunity to do the job, as in the case of Mr.Gothem22's in-hand injectors. This paradigm is especially true with cheap old cars, which only remain feasible when personal labor can stand in for money. See "taking the time to do it right the first time is always cheaper than making the time to do it over", above. Of course, I will concede that if one's past operations make doing more damage than good the likely outcome, I can understand their trepidation at doing what should be done. My personal issue with the caveat of "a man should know his limitations", is its application to one's level of skill implies "I can't learn more", which leads to "I give up", a form of defeatism that is too easily communicable. This is what leads to infectious despair and the sale of "projects" half done. I happen to believe that the point of this kind of forum is to provide a learning experience thru shared knowledge and enthusiasm. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think so.
  9. ensys

    Rust Advice 78 280z

    Mr.Head: Sorry you find the point obscure. I'll try one more time to be more clear; don't complain if you find it blunt. Only a fool trusts luck.
  10. ensys

    Rust Advice 78 280z

    (accidental duplication)
  11. ensys

    Rust Advice 78 280z

    Mr.Head: Word-wise, what I intended was: "responsible", as in "to one's self" "prudence", as in "taking the time to do it right the first time is always cheaper than making the time to do it over" And you're right: "could" is the guts of that matter. To each his own of course, but I tend to believe that gambling with the results of one's work, is generally a lazy sucker's bet.
  12. ensys

    Rust Advice 78 280z

    All: Well, if anecdotal evidence is going to supersede responsible prudence, I will tell my story. My Z's mechanicals were in very good condition, outside and in. But the soft parts were old after 200K. mi., and refreshing the engine included full hose changes. Since they were on the bench, I naturally checked them and found that their volumes and patterns varied some, making a simple cleaning a no brainer. The operation was brief (in relative terms) and successful. Sidebar Note: Yes, I should have mentioned the need to "backflush" the internal wire screen (which, at the time and in retrospect, seemed a better idea than trying to remove/replace same). It was the last step of the clean cycle (which pointedly excluded H2O, of course), which had removed nearly all the trapped matter. This final step was accomplished by powering the valve open and applying low power compressed air back up the orifice. This was followed with a final "frontflush" with cleaner. I believe you stated that you wanted this to be the last time you wanted to do a major service on your engine, which has had a full life already... in someone else's hands... with who knows what kind of maintenance (including filters, condition of the tank, etc.). In short, its a crapshoot situation. I believe you owe it to yourself to be as thorough as you can within the given parameters. Or not. Your dice.
  13. ensys

    Rust Advice 78 280z

    Mr.gotham22: I admire your youthful enthusiasm and gritty determination. I hope it is enough. Given the shots of the car at the curb, I can understand your hopefulness. Regardless of how it looks under the new paint, it looks like any shiney side issues will wait well enough. Just be careful of your working heats. While it is not my intention to deal in discouraging words, I will, in the name of reality checks, note that your biggest handicap is not the rust, but the lack of a secure enclosed work space. If there is a garage on the premises, commandeer it; the wife will probably understand. If not, try to make some arrangement with a neighbor. At the very least, build an 8'x10' shed to hold your tools (a few small things like a bench grinder and a place to paint will make a difference) and keep vital parts from "disappearing". Plus, winter is coming and enough said about that. Another suggestion: buy a large blue tarp to go over the cushion of the car cover. The tarp will give better weather protection (winter, remember) and make the cover last longer. Plus, you can get a better "wrap" from prying eyes. One more: You might think about some concrete pavers as a make-shift "floor" for the body that would be above the ground water and snow. Practical ideas: I would suggest that the engine should be stripped down to the long block to allow the extensive re-conditioning obviously required for all the vital systems/plumbing on the engine (opening the distributor should be interesting). Plus, you'll need to replace the manifold gaskets anyway. The fix for the broken exh. manifold studs (at each/either end) will probably require removing the head to do it right. Note: the best repair for broken studs (head, manifold-tailpipe joint, etc.) is a careful drill-out, in steps of larger bits, to the point just shy of the threads. Done carefully, one can then just peel the stud threads out, leaving the body threads intact. Be wary of easy-outs; when they break, they are worse to drill out than the original bolt/stud. Have you got a Factory Shop Manual yet? Seriously; Good Luck. The rest is up to you and the good folks on this site.
  14. ensys

    In case you missed it

    If I may be so bold, I would note Mr....88 that your body did not figure in Toyota's demographic calculations for what was intended as a Japanese market only image car. The bodywork reflected the best of contemporary styling but with a distinctive interpretation that did not betray a derivative approach. The lines are simple and effective without a trace of cliche. But like people, one has to look below the skin to understand what makes it tick so well. DOHC in-line six with triple carbs and cross-flow heads, 5-speed gearbox, wishbones at all four corners, LSD, and largely hand-built. At the time it was released, it was well known that the GT was sold at a "subsidized" price as a halo vehicle. This was a whole different league than the Z, which is reflected in the current values of each. The GT's rarity is just the icing on the cake of investment collecting
  15. ensys

    Bumper rams

    Mr.EuroDat: My good Sir; your thoughtful shots are exactly what I need to effect repairs. I can't thank you enough for taking the trouble. The left one (which has a different bolt-row spread, and thus, different wall config as your fotos clearly show) was the particular issue of concern to me. And the flange edge shots are particularly helpful. Again, my thanks.

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