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Everything posted by dmorales-bello

  1. Once you corroborate that all the electrical sources of failure check out, you can also pull the sender from the tank, bend the floater arm downward about an inch (toward the bottom of the fuel tank) and reinsert in the tank. That should allow your fuel gauge needle to move to the right with the same amount of fuel in the tank. It will take some experimentation but you should be able eventually to get the gauge needle to go fully to the right with a full tank of gas. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  2. I described a tool I made especially for that task using pvc tubing. I couldn't come up with the link in my search but perhaps one of the guys here remembers it. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  3. I came across an IG post that caught my eye in which a fellow 280Z owner had LED lighting behind the Z emblems rearward of the quarter windows. Turns out a garage in Las Vegas that does a lot of Datsun work (Harmon Restoration) had done the work for him and would sell a kit with an amber LED bulb for each side which included all wiring with proper Datsun plug connectors for a seamless installation onto the rear lights harnesses. Since I love LEDs and this looked like a novel idea I ordered one such kit which I received a couple of weeks later. Their original kit was meant to work as an auxiliary turn signal light but I didn't like that idea, doubting it's legality and usefulness. I asked them to wire my connectors so they would work in conjunction with the parking lights, which they did. First I checked the lights by plugging them into both tail light harnesses (all good), then I loosened the interior plastic panels so I could run the new wire harnesses forward. After prying the Z emblems off, I carefully drilled 5/8" holes at the center of the vent holes and a second steel panel immediately behind it. I lightly sanded and repainted (satin black) the vent holes making sure the raw metal edges were covered inside and out. After applying a generous quantity of black silicone sealant around the light stalk, I installed it from outside and secured it with the included nut from inside the cabin. I finally put my interior panels back in place and reinstalled the Z emblems. When I tested the installed light the LED was way too bright, even brighter than the parking lights, and the glaring bulb was very visible in many angles! Not what I had hoped for at all! After some thought I came up with 2 light diffuser ideas. The first was a simple circle of "frosted" .5mm thick white plastic glued to the back of the emblem. It looked great when illuminated (although still too bright for me) but the white plastic was plainly visible when the light was off. Additionally, this option may have obstructed the air exiting the cabin to a certain degree. My final option was to construct a cylindrical "diffuser" which would hide the LED, direct light to the back of the emblem, reduce the intensity of the light, not obstruct airflow, and be pretty much invisible when the lights were off during daylight. I used a 3/4" amber translucent plastic tube (small prescription container), cut out to the correct length and angle. I then introduced a piece of the frosted white plastic inside the cylinder to diffuse the light, but covered 2/3 of the inside of this plastic with black duct tape allowing light to exit only at the end immediately behind the Z emblem. Lastly, I covered the outside of the tube with a layer of mirrored tinted window film so it would allow light to exit but reflect the black paint from the vent holes on the outside, rendering it close to invisible once installed. The diffuser was then hotglued to the back of the Z emblem and reinstalled on the car. It worked as intended and I now have subtle amber indirect illumination behind the Z vent emblems that don't telegraph any alterations during daylight or when the lights are off. I realize this isn't orthodox at all but I really like the cool factor on my restomodded 280Z. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  4. [emoji16] Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  5. Wow, Cliff! Thanks for the compliments! I'm honored in receiving such high praise from you. I have considered swapping out to the smaller 240Z bumpers many times, even purchased the mounting plates, but every time I think of doing body work and paint on the rear of the car I talk myself out of it. [emoji38] Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  6. You can also line the inside of the lamp (even refinish a corroded lamp reflector) with air conditioning silver foil tape which has adhesive backing and conforms to the curved shapes very easily. Very simple to do and that definitely increases the reflection of the bulb and the perceived brightness. Unless you're going for absolute originality, the advantages that LEDs give your electrical system made them the choice for me. I only kept a couple of incandescent bulbs in the dash so the light dimmer still works. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  7. So it seems like the EFI relay in question changed location from the '76 and '77 280Zs under the driver's side dash above the hood release to being housed inside the engine bay within the steel "black box" by the passenger side strut tower and the fusible links. Is it still the exact same relay as in the previous 280Zs? Will the Bosch 120 work in the '78 to replace the OEM relay? Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  8. They look really shiny and smooth! If you're not sure which way to go, you can have them vinyl wrapped in whatever color and finish you want to try (like satin black) and if you don't like it after a while you can simply remove the wrap with no damage whatsoever on your pretty chrome. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  9. Not really. You can clean and polish your original plates if you want them to look good. If they're not beaten up, they'll work just fine. I opted for a new stainless steel set of plates for durability and looks. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  10. Oh! OK, now I understand. I'm so happy she still has her current Z! Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  11. I'm happy for your friend and for the car but kinda sad Jai had to sell it. She really loved that car and it meant a lot to her. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  12. Beautiful job, great color. Is it still Jay's ? Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
  13. I used this method on my vacuum tank and it worked extremely well. Here's a comparison "before/after" pic. Top pic is after.
  14. It sold for a bit north of 38K. Not bad considering the original auto tranny was swapped for a 4 speed (cool but not original to the car), after some rust repair the paint in the rear of the car didn't match the rest, rear deck carpet seemed to have shrunk somehow, etc. I think the whole car needed a good paint job to look really good but then the parts with original paint would be gone. I'm not sure how that would affect value. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  15. Beautiful depth in that paint. Great job! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  16. I wrote ZCD a couple of weeks ago and described the issue along with our conclusions (after so much friggin work!), and the "easy fix" of using a different resistance bulb. They thanked me for being so thorough, that my email would be forwarded to the "boss", but they had sold many sending units without any issues. They left it at that, regrettably. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  17. So sorry to see those pics! Hope everyone is OK. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  18. Oh, yeah. It's still completely closed. I've used "Gorilla" tape to hold cables to an outside wall exposed to sun and rain. That 3 foot long strip is still holding after 12 years or so. Once the glue on this tape cures, it's a very strong bond although I'm sure it'll depend on the type of material it's bonding to. I'm quite sure it's strong enough to hold the visor material closed for a very long time. BTW, "Gorilla" is a specific brand of tape (looks like duct tape). Here in America that company also manufactures several different types of glue and other tapes as well. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  19. I did not remove the mirror in my passenger side visor and simply worked around it. I'm pretty sure it's attached with some sort of rivets. It would have been cumbersome to take out and that's why I decided to work with it in place. Not a hard thing to do. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  20. It's nice to have softer closing doors but now you need to check how weathertight those Kia seals really are. When I changed my worn out original door seals for the Precision set I immediately noticed three things : 1- I now had to close the door much harder; 2- the smell of partially burnt fuel in the cabin virtually disappeared, and 3- wind noise at highway speeds decreased greatly. I would love to be able to close my doors softly but I'm quite content with less wind noise and virtually no fumes in the cabin. Please let us know how your Kia weatherstripping fares in those two regards. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  21. Antifreeze (ethylene glycol solution) with droplets of transmission fluid. The hydrophobic nature of the transmission fluid accounts for the "boob" formation. Capillarity accounts for the ring formation along the edges of the container. The lower density of the tranny fluid allows it to float on top of the ethylene glycol. How did they get to the container? I'm guessing you put them there? LOL!
  22. Update on my "bulb" trials. Bulbs 2, 3 and 4 are acceptable as workarounds for the disfunctional thermistor in the 2 ZCD fuel senders that I received. Those bulbs have such a faint glow when the malfunction happens (after about 25 minutes of running the engine) that they are pretty much invisible in daylight conditions and very hard to detect in a darkened cabin BUT they glow brightly once the fuel level drops below the thermistor, maintaining their functionality as a "low fuel warning" light. Interestingly they have cold resistance values that are very similar (12.7, 11.5, and 11.4 ohms respectively). BTW, bulbs 5 and 6 were very bright at the moment of malfunction. Bulb 1 was too faint when the tank was empty. Therefore those are not acceptable. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  23. When my original unit was working, the light would go on once the needle was past the E by maybe 1/8", supposedly with about 2 gallons of fuel left in the tank. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  24. Because the wiring harness isn't long enough you'll have to disconnect the sender in order to pull it out far enough for the thermistor to be above the surface of the fuel. Reconnect to the harness once the sender is out of the tank (tap out any fuel left inside the can) and turn the key to "on" and the "fuel" light should come on very soon. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  25. Huh, huh! We have an apparent trend... Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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