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I have a three bedroom house that I rent out and I live in the garage apartment in the back.

Congrats on the new digs. My long-time dream is a 3-car garage with a small cottage attached. Then my wife slaps me awake and says "You're having that dream again. It ain't gonna happen, deal with it!"

Just to confirm, from a 77'.

Take a new tool out for each job because you can't find the one you just used. Leave it on the closest horizontal surface when you're done. Swear to be more organized and fail immediately.

this is my adventure in rebuilding

get a hand held impact driver (the kind you strike with a hammer) to release those torx screws. Also make sure you know which direction to turn the output shaft nut to loosen. Pretty sure its a CW to loosen, CCW to tighten (reverse of normal). this guy has some good videos

It took me 30 years, but I was fortunate enough to purchase a home with triple front garages and a rear 24x24 shop. Having a separate shop is key to a long term restoration, as nothing in that shop escapes the dust and mess accompanying the restoration process. I would never want to work on a car like this in a shared parking space! I know, it is the case for many without options, but I waited an additional year after buying my project car to find a house that would accommodate a happy wife as well as a happy car nut.... Also, hang thick poly from the ceiling to create a separate work space to contain some of the mess. I used 6 mil vapour barrier. Good luck!

First, I wanted to thank those of you that responded regarding vintage dashes and the 240z. I also wanted to give you an update. I was able to connect with the vintage dash people. They are for real. They have developed multiple products. They are different than many vendors that I have dealt with in the past, namely they are very serious about producing a quality product. They appear to be very ethical. They decided not to take deposits in advance, unless they had product on the shelf. Quite admirable when you think about it. For whatever reason they were having a manufacturing issue with their mold. What they described to me was (in my opinion) a couple of minor aesthetic flaws. They believe that this situation is resolved and expect to have 240 product within 4-5 weeks. They do keep a list of customers that have requested product. My understanding is that it is based on emails that they receive. I believe that originally they were requesting a deposit, but as I said earlier they stopped that practice. So if you contacted them by email you are apart of their request list even if you did not provide a deposit. My understanding is that in the very near future they will be reviewing this list and contacting customers to validate interest. "Whee" is correct - a little more patience will be required.

When I first started working there one of "my" funny signs was OUR CHICKEN FINGERS ARE BIGGER THAN A BABY'S ARM That didn't make the news channel obviously but I still think it's funny.

I am assuming that the 280 location is the same or close to the 240 location

People have rebuilt severely damaged transmissions like yours and had good results but often when there is that much metal flying around there is a lot of extra damage. Beyond the damage a typical rebuild will fix. One damaged gear replacement could cost as much as having a used transmission shipped. Take some better closeups and post them. We like to look at damage.

Having done what I hope is enough research, I have started down the road on my next off-beat modification. I decided to pull the trigger to go with the Patton Machine fuel injection kit on my 260Z. I still think I'm going a little lean at times at the top end with my current SU setup, and I hope this will remedy that situation. The cost appears to be less than sourcing a non-egr FI intake, AFM, MS setup, etc., and it seems to be nicely sorted out. I'll try to remember to take a lot of photos for posting. I hope to get the setup in March.

Located in Los Angeles. Seller also states in the listing that the car has its original paint. Here's the link: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/los-angeles-1970-datsun-240z-4speed/6788751471.html

And I thought I was the only one........ As far as improving on the garage, I would install as many LED shop lights as you can.

Hi Odinspeenbone Welcome to the forum. As you probably already noticed, plenty of willing members to offer advice where needed. Looking at your photos, I would rebuild it. You mentioned in your first post, you found a tooth or a piece of one. Most probably from the reverse gear. The reverse gear can look very ragged, and still function well. Can you post a photo of the piece and maybe locate where it came from? Points to check before going forward with rebuild. - Look for cracks in the gears. A small chip will be ok, but cracks and signs of shattered teeth are a red flag. - Syncho rings. Was the gearbox changing gears without grinding befoe the bearing fell apart? If not measure the rings against the specs, see manual for guidance. The external teeth look OK on the photos, but that is not what makes a good synchro ring. The small grooves on the inside are important and the wear is determined by measuring the distance between the synchro cone and the gear. Note: Be carefull running your fingers around the inside. The small grooves can be razor sharp, especially on new rings. If the synchros are within spec, you only need a bearing kit and seals. - Once it's all dismantled, check the shafts are straight and within tolerance. Bent shafts can caused the transmission to jump out of gear. Didn't do it with worn bearing because the worn bearings had enough play to compensate. - Use a good quality GL-4 transmission oil suitable for brass synchro rings. Redline MT-90 or the GM transmission oil are commonly refered too. The GM part numbers are AC DELCO USA p/n: 88900399. GM USA p/n is: 12377916. I can post the part numbers for all the seals if you want to order then individually. Best would be to order a bearing kit and the rest of the seals, o-rings separately. A kit like this would be what you would want for the bearings. They also sell bearing kits with synchros, but I have had poor performance from the aftermarket rings and endd up sourcing the rings from Nissan. DTS-BK133 $129.89 http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan_f5w71_overhaul_kit.html

We came upon a well preserved part that we took to a local paint supplier and had them match the color. We ended up with a quart can (from which we've done probably 5 blocks over the years and still have more than half) and eventually a couple of spray cans they made using that formula. We discovered that it's much easier to brush on than spray the block itself... Easier to spray the brackets and pulleys. We also learned from the 1975 Museum car we had in the shop that if you're going for authentic factory look when spraying, you have to overspray the bottom of the head about an inch or so...

grooves are normal.

Go to a ReStore shop and buy used all-wood cupboards to get you going. (Sort of like a goodwill but with building materials). You can get great shelves at home depot. Edsal make units and parts to customize nicely. They also sell under Husky and other brands. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Storage-Organization-Shelving-Industrial-Shelves-Units/Edsal/N-5yc1vZcksqZ1po/Ntk-tagger/Ntt-shelves?NCNI-5&storeSelection=2408,2414,2409,2407,2404

Holy moly. I found a Pick n Pull in Rhode Island. Might be worth a look. Pick n Pull salvages what they can before melting the cars down. They're owned by a steel company, the salvage parts are gravy to them. They make their money on the steel. Of course, the whole northeast and all of its states is about as big as Oregon so there are many options. Good luck.

Personally, I'd rather REFRESH a $300 - $400 trans from the wrecking yard than REBUILD a totaled one. Depending on the damage in the bad one (which is considerable) it may be cheaper and easier to refresh a different one. When you tear the old one down keep everything in order, (I've used wood dowels to keep all the parts in order and correct orientation) clean and inspect one part at a time. Lots of pics. Most of us are already trying to figure out what part of the trans went first and took out the rest. BTW, How much oil was in the trans when you drained it?

We got stomped and know it. Congratulations Clemson! Here's my sign for today's special. It made the local news. ?

Thanks Charles, So the stock hole is the back one then.

transmissions in your area appear to be $300-400 from salvage yards

Start here https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/15-300zx/ There are a few options for a FSM download. They are easier to use on a computer as opposed to a phone. There should be full tear down and rebuild instructions in there. If you shift too aggressively and flog these transmission they won't last. My2cents

You might say they were all out of whiskey!

Hello Kats, Your praise and enthusiasm for my site means a lot Kat. Thank you. It has taken a lot of effort, hours to do this site, whether tracking down period magazine articles from Japan (I am still missing some) and working every single kanji by stroke, finding it electronically, pasting into Word, the translating via Google. So far, I must be up to around 80,000 kanji done. (No, google translate image on phone won't work on old faded print, where I had to use a hand lens). Plus, it gave a feel/understanding of Japanese kanji, and Japan as a whole, doing it the "long" way. Making sure the english sentences are short/un-complicated, so Google can give a better (though maybe not correct) kanji for me to post up. It does bug me slightly that the Japanese is maybe not quite correct, but as long as a Japanese person can get the right idea of what I am saying. As HS30-H said to me, how maybe Japanese websites have perfect English. I wanted the CSP311/A550X/Toyota 2000GT/S30 (as all their stories are joined/flow) be as good as I could find. That meant bypassing most of what was/is written in the western print (though it was still researched, read and cross referenced) and going back to where the story happened. Japan. My hope Kats, is someone in Japan sees my site, and this helps me get more information, to make the story, better, fuller, with thoughts, ideas and drawing, anything. Patcon, I know. But it means that I have to go right back, no hiding, and it also means I can put my stamp on it, e.g. it will have larger fuel tank fabricated, and to match, I already have a refurbished/newly screen printed fuel gauge saying my larger fuel tanks volume, rather than stock. You won't notice, unless you know where to look. I am currently looking at doing some injection molding...

I realize this is a 6 year old thread, but @zspert does carry the correct color for you all. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRequests.php EDIT: @EuroDat @Arne already mentioned Banzai, I did not fully read the thread prior to posting. My error.

They are yours for the cost of shipping if I find them. They are in a pile of scrap metal outside.... under 22” of snow....

Thank you Mike.

? Hey welcome back to the site!! Glad to see you participating again. -- Mike

Here is the optional fan from my parts CD.

Sorry folks, not trying to sound like a jerk, sorry. I'll get back to everyone next week with details about the fan system. My fiche reader is at my shop and I'm off until Wed. Happy New Year.

I know your posting about engine paint colors here but, for what it is worth, my ... errr ... I mean YOUR 240Z is painted in a Subaru color --- from about 2004 as I recall! Alan V.

The Pontiac color is close, but not exact. If you want to get fussy, the paints from CDM or Banzai are the right stuff.