Jump to content

Dave WM

Members
  • Posts

    3,230
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Everything posted by Dave WM

  1. are you going to use a radiator shroud? There are brass and copper radiators out there new. things to watch out for is the drain hole location if you still have the splash pan, and the filler neck overflow direction depending on how you want to deal with then over flow. I like the copper brass types over aluminum.
  2. guess I must be the exception here, never had that problem.
  3. OP one thing to watch out for, oven cleaner, there are some folks on internet that use this stuff, esp to clean alum, not a good idea, as it will dull and grey the finish and just not needed.
  4. works great I use it all the time with no issues, super clean, nice when looking for oil leaks etc as well. Main point is water is not good as it can promote corosion if not dried well. Its easy to over love an engine by thinking it needs to be all shiny, inside is what matters, this is for the OP as far as engine cleaning goes.
  5. I would recommend you stay away from cleaning with any kind of flowing water, If you must clean just use a damp cloth with some warm soapy water and wipe down where you want to clean. The engine does not care to be clean, except if you plan to open something up and there is a dirt that could get the engine internals. I hose down areas like that with brake clean. It dries quickly and cuts grease and oil. Use it liberally and you can just let he dirt wash off.
  6. I would certainly like to see some completed vintage air or others. For me I would see if i could adapt them to use the existing levers, prob not possible with out a LOT of alterations. The other issue I would like to see is how far they extend into the passenger foot well.
  7. from what I recall when looking the heater valve over, the coil is there to alter the fulcrum on the valve. I presume its supposed to allow more or less throw in the opening of the valve to compensate for how hot the heater core is getting, to try and keep the heat constant for any given manual opening of the valve. If I am right then I doubt its function is critical, and if its broken I presume the fixed fulcrum would not really be that big a deal, just reset the manual opening if the temp is not right after the car warms up. As for the AC, it works OK in stock form using R-12. I can not comment on how it works with conversion to other coolants, like R-134a or any of the R-12 replacement gases. I do like the OE hitachi compressor, sanden and sanden clones seem to dominate the after market alternatives. I have no exp with them but I do with the OE hitachi SWP123 Its a beast of a compressor, it has a wet sump for oil, and seems to be very well built. its heavy but I dont care bout that I just want it to work, and work it does, my car has I presume the oe from the looks of it and it works find, does not leak but is noisey. I have the stock OE fan motor, while its not a hurricane force blower it does ok. I would caution that if you "upgrade" the motor you consider the amp draw, and if it exceeds the stock motor make some wiring changes to allow for the increase. The stock fuse box is stressed as is (the max setting on the fan is for emergency cooling IIRC per the owner manual). The biggest limitation seems to be the ductwork when it comes to flowing air, there was a mention somewhere perhaps on this forum about a redesigned diverter on the front vents, dont recall any followup. All the aftermarket evaps and housing make no use of an fresh air supply from the cowl chimney. That has always bothered me. That and they do not use the levers or the logic of the lever as designed so all the markings are useless to functionality. They are universal HVAC systems and seem should not be considered a drop in replacement. You can buy brand new oe fitment evaps that use a standard tvx (not the NLA stock tvx). I have one of those purchased as a spare just in case my existing evap every goes bad. I like the way the system works and would suggest you try to preserve it if at all possible.
  8. i bought a new one from nissan, not a lot of money, I like to get OE parts where possible. opps did not notice the spring, my 280z that I was able to get the slave did not have one. Maybe 240z slave in NLA from nissan.
  9. if the engine is running well, no odd noises, compression checks out, oil pressure good, not burning excessive oil (a quart is less than 600 miles is considered excessive), head gasket ok (check for exhaust gases in radiator with simple test kit that looks for a color change in a fluid, sold at napa), oil does not seem to have water in it (milking looking). then I would just change the oil and drive it, see if those bits show up again at the next oil change. I generally do an oil change ever 3k miles, after adding 2 qts during that time (I burn about 1q per 1000 miles). That's using valvoline 20/50 racing oil in the summer and 15/40 rotella T4 in the winter. Its pretty hot where I drive so I use the high side of the recommended range of weights.
  10. I would avoid under coating just to prevent rusting, I know we dont have salt here but still eventually it will crack and let water get in, maybe trapped.
  11. another consideration for a new Z owner, lately they have gone up a lot in value. IF you want to preserve this increase in value understand any deviation from stock is likely to reduce the value, perhaps a LOT. things like poking hose in consoles to install after market controls, getting rid of OE vents and heating systems, installing after market radios (and cutting up consoles to install) adding speaker where they dont belong... the list goes on but basicly ANY change is a down grade. SO if that matters to you be aware before making changes, esp ones that are hard to recover from. the Antenna is a perfect example, its very hard to find a good power antenna, so if it breaks you can fix it or replace it. replace it and you get off cheap and it works, but you just down graded the car in the eyes of a collector. So with respect the to AC, IF the above matters to you, you would want to go with the OE dealer type , and live with the limits of that system. Just understand it will not be like a modern car for comfort on hot humid days.
  12. AC on 240's is weak, the orig system which iirc was a dealer added option, was a evap added ahead of the fan, so you had to draw air thru it, and by the time the air exited the smallish duct work it was not very cold. the later models changed this up to a evap added at the very end of the system, just ahead of the ducts, works better but still not great. The real issue IMHO is just the lack of good duct work by coparison to a modern car. On top of this the orig systems were designed around R-12. Conversion to R-134a is generally done but I am unsure if the condenser and evap work as well after the conversion, of all that is done is to replace the refrigerant. I have heard of folks installing whole new hvac systems, this requires pulling the dash, fabrication mounting gear (its a generic unit, not designed as a drop in replacement), and using a different set of controls (not using the existing control levers). On top of all that i have not seen one of these ever hook up the fresh air back to the cowl air duct, the general response is if you want fresh air roll down the window. bottom line is if you want a 240 with cold air, be prepared for re engineering the hvac. i would recommend 2k budget.
  13. hmmm looks like i have to go review the FSM, a closer look at my z show to distribution blocks, one seems to function only as a place to activate the brake warning switch, then there is a whole other assembly that I presume functions as the proportioning valve. I "think" the one snagged from the izuzu does both functions. anyway fun to take a part and mess with..
  14. well upon close inspection the PV is not an exact fitment, but still looks like it would work in a pinch.
  15. will do have to find the camera
  16. 1986 nissan PU truck, pretty decent under hood inspection light, works fine, lens in decent shape. 1991 izusu pickup what looks a lot like a brake proportioning valve. two inputs F and R on the top, a single R on the bottom a F on the bottom and the side even looks like the bolt up location would match for mounting. blew thru it, not plugged. I was thinking of trying to disassemble to see how the slide piston works to operate the switch. the switch looks a bit smaller but i presume it works the same.
  17. I dont know if it's a franchise, but I had my tank redone by a "renew" place locale to me. was pretty expensive lIRC but its been fine since.
  18. for some reason I am recalling the OD switch having something to do with emissions.
  19. i like 280 up (or 82 or what ever it is, gets confusing with so many shared rd numbers) from tifton all the way to phenix city. nice divide hiway, very low traffic (until you get to columbus anyway) interesting sites (like the little grand canyon) along the way. just have to watch out for the dear esp around ft benning.
  20. for my dragon run i am going to look into us 301, looks promising
  21. an jeez my trip home on 75 was a nightmare i start south from tifton, all the way to the fl t pike, min speed in fl is about 80 lest you get run over, truck running 3 wide at times, at one point i looked down and was north of 95mph, and just keeping up... do my best not to get squashed like a june bug. next time i may go the fl/ga parkway a little on the west side of the state but very little traffic, comes up thru monticello then on to albany.
  22. recently retired (sorta anyway) so hope to make a run to the dragon soon, missed it last year, but now work is much less an issue.
  23. on a prior trip a strange fail, i would show sudden slight discharge for a second then a massive overcharge (like 30amp indicate by the ammeter) for several seconds. it was so bad that i was concerned with frying the ECU, so I would turn on the lights just to try to load down the battery voltage. This happened repeatedly for hours while on the same long trip I finally got to my location and was able to buy a replacement alternator which fixed the issue, I had to turn in the old alternator and was never able to autopsy it to find out what was the base problem. I eventually repaired my orig alt that failed early in my owner ship (shorted diode pack), reinstalled it and have been running every since. anyway my theory the fuse issue is perhaps those sustained high voltage/current event may have damaged the fuses (the head lights were MUCH brighter during the event, I am sure the higher voltage was causing a much higher than normal current in the head light circuit. I don't recall replacing the fuses after that trip, and a almost never run my lights as i generally avoid nite driving. I have inspected the fuses/fuse holder/combo switch all look very good, no corrosion at all. i have not checked the actual head light connection but will do that as well. I assume the head lights are stock replacements, based on the brightness I dont think they are high wattage.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.