Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,085 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
The last couple of days I have been having problems with my turn signals not functioning properly. Usually the left signal would work and the right front would not. I took it upon my self to refresh the switch the usual way by opening it up and cleaning the ball, spring, and contacts. I have probaly opened this switch up four or five times as the repair doesnt seem to stay working for too long and now the tabs have broken off. So I just replaced them with plastic clips held down by the screws on the side of the case. However, that isn't the problem I have now. Whenever I turn on my left turn signal it causes the ignition to cut out in time with the blinker. The AMP mete…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 5 replies
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Hello well im new to the forums and i have spend the whole afternoon looking for answer in this forums and i only found 1 post with my same problem but no way to fix it Well I got my 72 Z back in december and been working on it since then, my fuel gauge was working fine when i first got it but later i had to remove the gas tank due to some leakeage on the hoses,well after replacing all the hoses on the rear end and placing the tank back my fuel gauge was only reading to 1/2 tank it been 4 month since then so today i decided to replace my sending unit since according to some post thats seems to be the problem sometimes (i did check that the fuel gauge was working by ground…
Last reply by Kathy & Rick, -
- 12 replies
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Why not here. I rebuilt my Weber DCOE40 18 carbs. One of them leaks fuel out the horns, mostly the right barrel. All the obvious possibilities have been checked. No, the intake valves aren't sticking. Yes, the floats are adjusted and are functioning. The needle valve is fine. The venturi's are snug and secure. I've asked and searched at HZ and tried google and sent emails to Weber shops and tech forums.
Last reply by ChrisZ, -
- 11 replies
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Hi Z guys, I am friends with 2 guys trying to get a 76 280 out of mothballs. One guy's wife owns the car which sat indoors for about 6 years and was not touched. The other guy is a professional mechanic. Car is in good shape and she has had it since it was new. Fluids were drained and refilled, valve cover removed top end and timing chain lubricated, fuel lines cleaned, new fuel pump and filter, fresh gas. Engine would turn over, but not start, injectors tested found to be bad, new injectors installed, ECU and MAS tested and found to be good. Engine started ran pretty good, slight miss/hesitation at part throttle. Ran engine about an hour, shut off, changed oil and f…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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After reading past threads relative to my question on this site and others for information I am not quite satisfied. I apologize for improper forum etiquette if I should have resurrected an old thread instead of starting a new one. My car: I have a 71 240z. Everything is stock, l24 motor, dual hitachi sidedraft carbs, etc. Carb Question: I am in the process of syncing my carbs with a Synchrometer. After talking to those knowledgeable in the field they stated that as long as the airflow readings are the same for both carbs, I would be fine. I wanted to know if there is an optimal reading in which I should achieve for each individual carb in kg/hr. By evaluation usin…
Last reply by olzed, -
- 8 replies
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Hi all, i have two problems i just can't put my finger on to solve, 1. I have an electrical problem, it first raised it's ugly head ( about a year ago ) when i stalled the car at a busy red light, nothing happened when i turned the ignition switch ( like a dead battery ). i did not find anything loose or disconnected, i wiggled the pos and neg cables to the starter and she started right up. No problems until yesterday, same thing at a traffic light on my way to help out my mom, stalled her out and had to do the same thing to get it started. I loosened all connections at starter and battery, sprayed a little wd40 on the connections and tightened everything up. No go, it…
Last reply by kjphilippona, -
- 11 replies
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Hi, I would appreciate any info on how to diagnose this problem. I replaced the 5 spd trans in a 72 Z ( 2.8L) to another 5 spd from a 83 non turbo. The problem is I have no electrical power at all, none. The batt is new, ground cable from neg post is on trans mounting bolt and is not broken or dirty. I hooked up the reverse switch with 2 bullet connectors. There were also 2 more bullet connectors a couple of inches away. I could not see anywhere were they should hook up. I think there has to be some kind of a neutral safety switch that is not hooked up. Anyone know where these connectors go or any ideas. The car was fine electrically before the trans replacement. Thanks
Last reply by Rick Q., -
Overheat again! 1 2 3
by Reverend- 31 replies
- 4.4k views
I recently got rid of the overheat problem by changing alternator belt and thermostat. Now its back and worse than before. Car warms up normally but soon heat starts to rise and nears red. I switched it off and i could hear "gulp gulp gulp gulp" kinda sound from the engine/radiator and there was white smoke coming from carbs. Also i noticed that there was water dripping from water pump area. Could this be water pump related problem? I found it hard to believe but my head is empty and i cant figure out anything else..:stupid:
Last reply by Z train, -
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
The red circles are where the leak is occurring. when the car is on, boy is that thing leaking. Thank goodness I noticed the smell when I first started the car :tapemouth. Also, is this an easy fix? Like just replacing the hose and the connector?
Last reply by Mike B, -
- 11 replies
- 1.5k views
Hey guys Earlier today I was doing some minor cleaning in the engine bay of my Z when I smelled the distinct smell of fuel. I started the Z and began to investigate from where the smell was coming from. The number 5 injector seems to be the culprit. The rubber hose seems to be leaking from where it enters the little metal collar. (I have no idea what this is called sorry, but the injectors have a metal collar looking deal where the hose enters). The leak isn't "bad" but any gasoline in or near the exhaust makes me rather squeamish. Has anyone ever dealt with these? If so how hard is it to get the hose to stop leaking? Jan
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 0 replies
- 964 views
Hey guys - here is what I am looking for for my latest project(71). Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.. Left rear Tail light fuel pump rear valance better dash heater control face AM Radio seats distributor an coil All stainless for passenger door These are jost the starters :stupid:
Last reply by lbpdz, -
- 22 replies
- 1.8k views
the rims with several holes in them , like on ChrisZ's signature pic....? I love that style and might want to switch from mine...which, btw are called??? thanks for your help, george
Last reply by slingblade,
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