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No electrical power after trans replacement


Rick Q.

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Hi, I would appreciate any info on how to diagnose this problem. I replaced the 5 spd trans in a 72 Z ( 2.8L) to another 5 spd from a 83 non turbo.

The problem is I have no electrical power at all, none. The batt is new, ground cable from neg post is on trans mounting bolt and is not broken or dirty. I hooked up the reverse switch with 2 bullet connectors. There were also 2 more bullet connectors a couple of inches away. I could not see anywhere were they should hook up.

I think there has to be some kind of a neutral safety switch that is not hooked up. Anyone know where these connectors go or any ideas. The car was fine electrically before the trans replacement.

Thanks

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Either you knocked it off, or it was badly corroded, and you jiggled it the wrong way, causing it to come apart and/or die. (That happened to me once.)

Yeah, they can be bad about doing that. I've been lucky and caught it before it broke.

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Thanks all, would a bad fusible cause 100% power loss?

I do not even have overhead or any dash lights. The fusible link wire is not melted from the outside.

I am now going to start replacing wires one by one. From the starter,battery to chassis groundsand fusible links.

I am a photog not an electrician!

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Thanks all, would a bad fusible cause 100% power loss?

I do not even have overhead or any dash lights. The fusible link wire is not melted from the outside.

I am now going to start replacing wires one by one. From the starter,battery to chassis groundsand fusible links.

I am a photog not an electrician!

The fuse-able link is the main fuse for the car. If it fails you will have no electrical power anywhere.

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Thank you ladies and gents for the help. It was a simple malfunction. Live and learn.

After tracing wires, bypassing the fusible link, changing out the ground wire, changing out another spliced wire and the car still would not start. So thought maybe its the battery cables? I had one of those terminals where you can remove a screw to disable the battery. Sure enough I cut it off, and touched the cable to the positive terminal the car starts up! Wasted 8 hours, never made it to a huge local car show. Time to learn how to use a meter and some basic car electricty.

Keep it simple.......................

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Make sure you remove your fusible link bypass.

I did remove it, thanks. I only cut it out and bypassed it to rule it out as the problem. I have a question Escalon, this link is just a high gauge wire , nothing special right? I figure its good to have some in the car in case it burns up.

I will be buying all of Dave Z's upgrades in the near future. This will be the winter project for the 72 and 77.

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Wrong! A fusible link is usually about 4 gauges smaller than the wires it protects, but the insulation is designed not to burn up. In that way, it is similar to a glass fuse where the element blows, but the glass remains intact. You can buy a fusible link from auto parts stores, but the 240Z has a connector on it.

You can get pre-made links from Banzai Motorworks. You can also buy the connectors from Vintange Connections and put them on an auto parts fusible link. Both businesses are run by stand-up guys. Frankly, I'd just spring for a couple from Banzai if you're worried about it.

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