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About Mikez73

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 19474

  • Title: Registered User

  • Content Count: 289

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  • Joined: 12/02/2009

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    Houston, TX

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  1. I'd go with thermal coating. Functional and looks good. This is mine :
  2. I think my next car will be a 280z or a z31. I'm a non purist and if I buy a 280 it will get an L28et and a standalone engine management. The obvious benefits are that I'll have no emissions testing and I can get rid of most of the cluster**** of wires and hoses. Anyway...like it or not, I'm still lurking
  3. I just used some common rubber bushings of the appropriate size. I believe it was John Coffey who said the main point of using rubber isolators is to protect the aluminum radiator from radiator core support flex which will destroy the radiator.
  4. A z31 friend asked me to measure the hatch or the hatch glass of my car. It was a real hectic day all around and I forgot to get the measurements. Now my car is gone so I can't do it. Anybody want to help out?
  5. Good luck and I hope things pick up soon. I have a good working radiator I'd give you if you weren't so far away
  6. Thanks Bob. They used to use that or water back before Seafoam right? At any rate the carbs are not gong back on the car. Since I can't seem to sell the car I'm trying to sell the carbs, motor, tranny, header, gas tanks, etc and install an L28et. EFI + turbo=happiness to me.
  7. Thanks guys but the carbs are off so taking the car out and driving it are out. I don't think it's that serious but that's just my opinion. The motor is strong and when I last drove it I could smoke the tires which seems pretty good for an L24 with 245/50 tires. But when you're trying to sell a motor and the compression test says problem then it is a problem. Thanks
  8. My car hasn't been driven very much since I bought it last November..maybe 6 times total for less than 5 miles each time. It's been driven once in the last six months...about a one mile drive. The previous owner rarely drove it. I did a cold compression test today. I figured this engine had high compression pistons but the piston, cam, and any other specs were known only to the original owner who is unfortunately no longer with us. Well, it has high compression on 4 cylinders . I'm not sure what to make of the results. Too much sitting up or sticky valves or both. Rings? Any thoughts? 1-185 2-200 3-100 4-195 5-185 6-115 I tried 3 and 6 again after a couple squirts of oil. 120 on both.
  9. I don't know anybody else here but with the guys I came up with, turning over means the starter is turning the engine rotating assembly. If the crank ain't turning then it isn't "turning over"
  10. Pick-up coils are cheap and easy to replace. Measure the resistance between the green and red wire. Should be 1 to 2 ohms according to the electrical guru at HZ. I don't think it's bad from what you've written so far. New wires and cap should help a lot if you have visible arcing.
  11. It's going to be a fun car regardless of which engine you use. I'd choose "none of the above" and get a turbo EFI engine. Second would be Bruce Palmer's suggestion. A well built L24 w/ triple Webers is fun too.
  12. Damn...it was only 7pm when I posted so I don't even have an excuse
  13. Is this the same car referenced in the original post???
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