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About Pomorza

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 18958

  • Title: Registered User

  • Content Count: 744

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  • Joined: 09/04/2009

  • Been With Us For: 4476 Days

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    Tucson Az

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  1. Hi mates I have a weird issue I hope someone can help me with. A few months ago I installed a brand new master cylinder and a complete rear disk brake conversion (with SS lines). I have a weird issues where it seems that the front brake reservoir is draining into the rear one. Example. This evening I drove my Z from my parents place back to mine, roughly 30 minutes of driving. When I was leaving the front brake reservoir was on Low and the rear one was on full. Get to my house and the rear one is completely overflowing and the front one is slightly lower then it was before. Is it possible that I have some sort of back flow issue here? This isn't the first time this has happened (actually the second) and I thought I had fixed it. (Mind you I haven't driven the Z for more than about fifteen minutes in about four months). Thanks mates Cheers Jan
  2. Zed Head. Yea I understand the fuel pressure drop after the pump is off. I run an updated EFI system so I can pressurize the system before having to start it. Thanks for the advice Cheers Jan
  3. Let me rephrase that. I've did a really quick google search last evening on adjustable FPRs for 280z. The third link down was Zcar depot which has a whole rail and FPR setup. The FPR - based on their information - runs at 40 psi. Clearly this wasn't an intensive attempt at research but I figured a few people here might have updated their fuel rails and was wondering what FPRs they use - I guess I may have asked the question incorrectly. Cheers
  4. Hey mates Has anyone updated their fuel rail to something like the pallnet or similar and run an after market adjustable FPR? Which ones do y'all use? The ones I'm finding are all 40 PSI + which is ever so slightly above the stock 36 PSI. Thanks Cheers
  5. Hey mates A few months back I completely R&Red the cooling system on my Z. New Radiator, hoses, pump fan and fan clutch - everything but the radiator was from Zcardepot. Also did the thermostat and gaskets there. The cooling system works wonderful the only issue I'm running into is that the fan is on, all the dam time. It was never like this before I replaced the clutch and it seems a bit overkill to me (I know I live in Arizona but still). I know these clutches can be rebuilt but has anyone run into this issue with a brand new clutch? Thanks Cheers.
  6. Hey mates Since the temps are over 100 here in the desert I figured this weekend would be the perfect time to replace the u joints on the half shafts (axle shafts). I spent most today getting the U joints out of the axle shafts. Before putting the new ones on I ran into the dreaded "while I'm here" moments and inspected the boots. While they aren't in the worse shape both seem to have small tears in them. Replacing these requires disassembly of the axles, which I went ahead and did. Does anyone have an recommendations on what type of grease to use on the inside of the axle shafts? The FSM doesn't really define it in a meaningful way other than multipurpose. Would plain wheel bearing grease do the trick? Thanks Cheers Jan
  7. Hey mates This up coming weekend I'm going to be replacing the shocks on the Z. While I have the front struts out of the car I figured (..you know while I'm already here...) I might as well do the strut bearing - the bearing on the top of the strut. Does anyone happen to know off hand an off the shelf part number for these? How difficult are they to do? Thanks Cheers Jan
  8. Mate that looks fine, I can more than likely fix that. If you're serious about sending it let me know Cheers Jan
  9. Hey mates Quick question. Is there any difference between the steering column covers between years (as in will a 240 one fit on a 280)? The lower section of my 76' was left in the Arizona sun (...yea smart on my part) and deformed to the point where its unusable. Thank you Jan
  10. The charge light was not on no. By no charge I mean the gauge was showing me 12V. When I got to work and turned off my headlights the fan started blowing a lot more. The L wire on the T plug, which wire would that be? Cheers
  11. Hello all This morning - it was 28°F - while driving to work my alternator decided that it had enough of my crap. Gauge showed absolutely no charging and the fan was having a hard time blowing any amount of air with the headlights on. Got to work turned the Z off. Got a DMM out start the car and magic the alternator works again. Its been making bad bearing noises in the past couple of weeks so upon arriving home I decided to just swap it out with a refurbished one. Come to find that the little capacitor looking thing - I'm guessing it would be the condenser is no longer connected to any part of the loom. So a few questions. 1. Is the condenser needed? I don't actually have a radio in my car and I've read that this is what this is for. 2. My voltage regulator is rather new - its 9 years old and its the newer type regulators (i.e not the massive one with the posts and all from the 70's). Are these prone to going bad? 3. Anyone ever have an alternator stop/start working randomly? Cheers Jan
  12. It was just a flat piece and I figured it out literally a few minutes after I posted this. There is a tube that runs under the throttle body that allows air from in front of the butterfly into the intake - and this flat piece sadly does not stop this air. Ruined a perfectly good throttle body gasket to figure this out. Would filling this with some good old silicone do the trick (black RTV letting it dry over night) or should I do a more thorough job? Cheers Jan
  13. Hi mates This afternoon I took the throttle body of the Z to get rid of the BCDD - it hasn't worked since I bought the car and I got a block off plate for Christmas. Took everything part and cleaned with engine degreaser, water and then blow dry with air. (I don't have a TPS I use aftermarket EFI so there are no sensors on the TB). I left it out for about an hour to let it dry even more. Put everything back together - I used RTV sealant on the block off plate and have a new gasket between the throttle body and the intake manifold. I noticed the idle screw was in as far as it could - the throttle body was as shut as it could be. Start the car and the damn thing goes to 1700 RPM right away. I've tightened the bolts down as much as I'm wanting to as I don't want to break them. Any ideas? Thank you Merry Chrismas Jan
  14. Shims? I did not know that the hatch had shims, I didn't see any when I took mine off.
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