Topics Last 30 Days

Yes. I've had the turbo motor sitting here for a decade, and the original plan was to go turbo, but I changed my mind and want to keep it N/A and make it what I might have done back in the day to hop it up for a, "somewhat period-correct street rod" that is clean and simple under the hood, with not a lot of spaghetti or that immediately looks like it has been modded. Of course, I want to keep it easily-returnable to its stock configuration and will be keeping the original, numbers-matching L24 and the rest of the original bits. My plan is to bore to 89mm add flat-top pistons and new rods, L-Spec Datsun-worked head (shaved, ported, new springs, SS valves, valve guides, stage 2 or 3 cam and cam tower shims). I just purchased the A123 electronic ignition distributor, Champion radiator with fans and will be doing the GM alternator conversion, light flywheel, performance damper, turbo oil pump and keeping the dual SU's. More than I bargained for, but I think I will end up with a really nice driver that will satisfy my butt dyno!

I am near Canada:)

Yes, nice shade of yellow. Looks a lot like mine. This is a Chevrolet color...'Rally Yellow'

$840 (plus shipping) at Motorsport Auto.

I've seen good results achieved by hammering the metal over the long edge of a length of 6" structural I-beam. Use Vise-Grips to clamp the metal to the I-beam. Then hammer from one end to the other, making 3 to 4 passes to get from flat to fully bent.

And a white picket fence… so American!

I don't think it did. However, test and eliminate.

I appreciate the clarification. The articles I read did not provide that information.

I wasn't there when they made the exhaust manifolds, but my assumption would be the same. I would expect they were raw uncoated cast iron. Maybe a thin coat of oil so they didn't flash rust in the parts bin, but that would burn off in the first few minutes of engine running.

Glad to help. Hope you make good progress and get things working well soon!

I stole this cassette from my step-a s s hole when I was a kid. When cassettes where still off white colored, before the clear ones. I listened to it so much I still know every word to all the songs but this was my favorite.

It doesn’t seem to be.

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/IMG_3902-1024x768.jpeg Happy 89th Birthday to our hero Peter Brock! You have been and continue to be inspirational to us Datsun fans worldwide. Here are a few pictures we enjoyed taking with you over the years: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/unnamed-1-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/DSC05510-1-e1637002594621-1024x1006.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/lagunaseca2004153-400x300.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/IMG_2311-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/IMG_9747-1024x768.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/sema-1024x1024.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/275435624_5253829184651694_278823018715978593_n.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/314962664_499938492181328_4586337483149355287_n.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/312177026_483959523779225_1687953212474383395_n.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/382583804_692126209629221_266883468108368867_n.jpg View the full article

$36,000

Thank you, Buddy.

Hi Bob: If you are still looking for a welder I would recommend Elhot Metal Fabrication. He is working inhouse at the Shop club on 6th Ave S. He has done rust repair on 3 of my cars over the last 20 years and he is top notch. Of course with 30 years of experience, he's not cheap. Cheers, Mark G

You are correct, I always has a very good pedal feel and then I did not. I think part of the issue is a bad check valve, and here is why I say that. I ran the check valve test with a vacuum gage installed down stream of the check valve in between the check valve and the brake booster. Warmed up the engine Let the vacuum gage settle down to about 45 mmHg or so (I think that was the number) Shut off the car and watched. The needle proceeded to drop and drop and drop and drop down to zero after about a minute or so. If memory serves last time I did this test, it held. So I ordered a new one. I will have to see if this helps or not. Either way, I suppose it is time to change it out as I installed that one back in 2009 according to my Z maintenance book I keep.

Update. It's been several months when I posted questions about a soft feeling brake pedal in my 79 zx. I checked the vacuun check valve and found it to be defective. I didn't even use my vacuum test equipment but instead just removed it and blew and sucked through it and knew it wasn't holding vacuum. I replaced it and now have very good, stock brakes again.

Yes, take it a lock smith. If the core can be removed from the cylinder it isn't that difficult to make a key. Key blanks are common. I can't recall if the core is wafers or pins. Come to think of it, it's a double cut key, so it would be a wafer lock. To remove the core from the cylinder without a key, not a big deal to pick the lock. I have no idea what a lock smith would charge, but it's not a big deal. When I closed my business I kept all the key blanks, I probably have what you need. Jim

This was a clue that it was an electrical problem. If the engine was still spinning because it was in gear then spark will still move the tachometer needle.

I think you may find @26th-Z and @Carl Beck already have most if not all of the documents. I've hoovered them up for my archive. Will be interesting to see what if goes for this time, I think it sold at least once or maybe twice since the last BAT appearance 6 years ago.

Any update. I suspect a gas tank from S30 World might be in my future along with Vapor Lines from Resurrected Classics.

I pulled the computer out and took it apart. It looks really good, so I put it back together and started on the ignition module replacement. I followed this diagram that I got from the knowledge base and tried it out, but no joy. I didnt see anything about needing to run it through the ballast resistor, so I left it out of the new circuit. Im not sure which side is + on the coil so I put the new green wire where the old one was. I found another post that had a resistance measurement for the pickup coil. Looks like its suppose to be around 720ohms. Ill check that next time im out. Im sure im missing something, but im was too tired to really use my brain. The module is bolted to the throttle body temporarily. And I broke out my new plug wires as well. Anyone have any suggestions?

@Yarb