Topics Last 30 Days

After replacing the insanely expensive cracked windshield in our 2025 Mazda CX-70 next week, I’m going straight to a shop to get Tera Shield installed on it. ZRAuto. Claims its three layers, clear for ever, blah blah blah. No idea about price yet. If it saves me one windshield it will pay for itself. That’s the brand the place I’m going to uses. I’ve looked online, and found a couple of retailers selling DIY kits in the $200 USD price range. Might try the DIY stuff on the Datsun just to say I did it.

The Good 'ol Boy way as was told to me by Fastwoman. Cost maybe $10? Don't drive around busy streets while watching the gauge, find a nice backroad and there won't be any issues.

Shimming the entire crossmember downwards creates a problem because it won't squish the front control arm bushings to hold them in place. It might be possible, but you would have to shim where the crossmember clamps those bushings as well. After thinking about options for a few days, I ended up grabbing a later front diff isolator (I had a spare) and modifying it. I flipped it around to work with my differential which is in the stock position (not moved back like the 72 model). I didn't take many pictures, but basically, I cut off the ears, flipped them over and swapped sides. I was very careful to tack and position them level to each other and in an adjusted (and equal) front to rear orientation. The net result was to lower the differential at this mount location by nearly 1/4", and to remove some of the angle that was manufactured into it. For the propeller shaft, I replaced the front yoke with a new one and got a local shop to balance it. I painted it and the mount: After installing both, and placing spacers between the body and the transmission crossmember, I took some angle measurements: pinion flange, crankshaft dampener, driveshaft tube in that order: I would have liked to have lowered the front of the differential a bit more, but the diff housing was nearly touching top plate of the diff isolator. And, I would have to add a much thicker spacer between the body and the transmission crossmember to get it down to 88.2. The bolts are quite long though, so maybe I will. Now the not so good news. There seems to be quite a large amount of movement of the new transmission yoke inside the tail of the transmission. I am concerned that the bushing in the tail shaft is excessively worn. This picture was concerning when I saw it. Maybe because of excessive wear in the bushing in the tail of the transmission, my driveshaft with improper u-joint angularity was vibrating around much more that it should have. I'll need to check for a wear specification. The 240SX transmission I the one thing on this whole car that I did not fully rebuild! Ugh!

I don't recall seeing any yellow double wire clamps on the car originally - hoops or otherwise, at least not yellow like the plating we see today. I was at Caffeine and Octane and a couple of guys who used to plate stuff as their business commented on my yellow chromate /zinc plating. They said something about how difficult it is to replicate the original yellow plating because the chemicals are different or something like that. They said we all have to put up with the 'really yellow' plating we have now. I am unsure of the accuracy of that statement. Others, especially original owners, should chime in here if possible, but my recommendation would be to go with clear zinc for all the hose clamps on the car because if you go with yellow chromate, you'll almost certainly end up with a much more yellow color than anything you see that originally had a very slight yellow tint. With my examination of the hardware on my car I found few if any exceptions to: clear zinc: all JIS (cross in the head) screws all clamps coil bracket spare tire hold down door latches and catches some lock washer and flat washers - as used with JIS screws I believe the hardware list I uploaded has the color listed. It is not exhaustive, but it is extensive.

I completely agree with you. PDF manuals are much more convenient..

Perfect....Many thanks...very appreciated

I think I'll just stick to the rear differential or the front crossmember pad, never had a problem with these points.

If your interested, here is my topic about the restore of my 280zx. At first i could not find it my own started topic, under "my started topic's" @Mike i had to do the search option? 280zx 1979 2+2 slick roof restauration - Classic ZX - 2nd to 4th Generation - Classic Zcar Community

Hello All, I am swapping to a 250z(N36) fan 240z(E46) balance tube. I'm trying to figure out which throttle linkage it requires. Do I need a full 240z throttle linkage from balance tube to fire wall or would replacing the shorter "J Rod" from the shorter 260z to the longer 240z be the only thing i need. Thank you

With 12 months and only 1 digit, what does Nissan use for the last three months: "A" and "B"? Or something else? I have caliper here that has "X" in this position. Maybe the 10th, 11, and 12th months are "X", "Y", and "Z"?

Let's see, redline is 7,000 with the yellow zone starting at 6,500 RPM. Keep revving it to 8,000 RPM like you describe and your problem will eventually be solved when you have to replace the engine after it blows up! Oh, when that happens, you might want to select a different engine builder than whoever built this one. There is NO REASON for revving it like you describe, unless you have a death wish for the engine.

My Dad always preached to not put old parts you can afford to replace back on the car. Lots of exceptions to that statement but you all know what I'm saying.

The front end look great! It could easily be changed by the new owner. I suspect if he couldn't figure that out he probably would not be interested in buying a really nice z car.

I got the SU Carburetors back from the doctor. When they were done in 8/2000, with updated throttle shaft bearings at that time, there were 2 holes inscribed "inject grease". I believe the grease I injected caused the seal to leak. With the idle screws turned all the way out, I couldn't get it to idle below 1000 rpms, and I couldn't balance them. Ztherapy got rid of those older style bearings, re-machined the bodies, and plugged the old grease holes. I actually have to turn down the idle screws now to keep it running, unlike before.

time flies guys. My new alternator comes in Monday. I will try just adding the regulator cap to see if that fixes things before I swap out the alternator. I have high hopes

I had mentioned in an earlier post to seek out @zclocks. He has been a consistent contributor to the forum and welcome to questions and advice.

So @Mike , I tried to delete the old obsolete incorrect previous version of the wiring diagram (version 6.0 on page five of this thread), and the edit privileges will not allow me to do so. I'm assuming there is a time limit on how far back in time one can go to edit something? And that post on Feb 11 has exceeded that time limit? Can we change that? Or at least, can YOU delete it if you won't allow me to do so?

I got my Datsun Z Car Series Oil Sending Unit Relocation / Remote Block done! I have only one for sale now, but more are on order. I am pretty proud of this design. Three outlet remote oil sending unit block. Metal 3D printed out of aluminum to look stock and mimics the 240z, 260z and 280z brake proportioning block design. Block has 3 outlets, all are 1/8 NPT. Comes with a custom length -3AN hose and one 1/8 NPT -3AN fitting and either a 1/8 BSPT or 1/8 NPT for the engine block side of the hose. Stock sending unit on a 240z is BSPT, this will require a NPT sending unit like this. [https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137](https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137) No sending units come with this order. Pictures of sending units are just for reference. Link: https://www.m2racing.com/shop/p/datsun-z-car-series-oil-sending-unit-relocation-remote-block

Well he is a mechanic and used to also race a camaro single carburetor car. He is 69 years old. Ill guess ill just wait for the new parts to arrive.

A possibility of fuel starvation. The end of the return of the fuel rail is restricted so there is some back pressure on the supply side to the carbs. If the lines were reversed that back pressure won't be there to feed the carbs.

I did but to no avail. I even ended up blasting the old grease/dirt out with brake cleaner and then relubing it with sprayable silicone lubricant but the squeak didn't go away

Cool. And those wheels did clean up nice!

Fortunate to find an early antenna with the bullet tip. The Nut wasn’t available. Any help will be much appreciated.

I hope you strapped them down to the headlight scoop for the drive, although I think you'll need to wait a while before opening them.

Thanks, and that is interesting. Google Translate serves its purpose well. Is there a Japanese Wikipedia? Any thoughts on where that "new" N42 casting comes/came from? There is a disconnect between ATK Vege (which seems to be a combined company, looking at the logos and the descriptions) and the KSS that comes up through that Japanese ATK link. 1936 versus 2003. North America versus Japan. From the web pages - https://atkvege.com/about-atkvege/ About ATKVegeATK North America is the largest private label Crate Engine Remanufacturer in North America. Partnered with our sister company, VEGE de Mexico, ATK VEGE has a history of Remanufacturing that dates back to 1936. https://atk.co.jp/company/ name KSS Co., Ltd. Representative President and CEO Keiji Okawa Established August 2003 Capital 3 million yen