Topics Last Week

No leak between the master and the booster. It only seems to be coming down near the areas where the brake lines screw in to the bottom of the master. I just thought it was odd that the rear reservoir (for the drums) has positive pressure on it when you take the lid off and the one for the calipers opens without a pop of pressure. Is there a pressure release valve in the reservoir cap that could be blocked forcing brake fluid to be squeezed out of the bottom when the pedal is pressed or something?

The reason I mess up when talking about ChatGPT with my colleagues on campus…

Good morning, I didn't realize that Junkyard Jenny had parts for sale. 7 pages from what I can tell. I purchased them late last night not sure the condition, the photos look good. I'll still purchase your plated version if that's an option. I'll go down to my local dealer ship this week with some part members for cross referencing to see how helpful they can be.

This bot is not like the others. The link actually leads to a real business. In Dubai.

Roof in really nice shape….a surprise. Frame rails, outer rockers and floors toast ….not a surprise. Firewall, spare tire well and inner fenders are nice..surprise. Tunnel and inner rocker area in great shape, perfect to attach new floors. Have rails, need both floors. I’ve seen gnose cars trim lips off the rear to allow wider/lower tires/suspension. Debating on leaving them trimmed off, or replace entire rear quarters to have the complete outer rear well.

The first picture from the left shows a completed repaired hi- lo beam switch circuit board repair. The next 2 pictures show continuity on both of the hi- lo beam switch closed circuits. In the mail on the way I have a parts turn signal switch with broken hi- lo beam switch circuit board. In the near future I can detail my repair protocol if there is interest out in Datsunland.

I also used an electric knife on my seat foam and it worked just fine.

Both the original tensioner and the new one have rubber type washers between the tensioner pad and it's housing.

Seek and ye shall find! I was able to find it and jumper the connection. It was really burried at the back. For others coming to this thread, when looking at the two wire bundles from the passenger side it's connected to the one on the right. It splits off from that. (see pic with finger pointing to it) Just grab the smaller taped up bit coming off it and start pulling. The Nismo pump is a bit noisier than I'd like but I'm really happy none the less. Initial pressure on start up is around 6psi and then once it warmed up it dropped to 4 to 4.5psi. I've moved the red wire from the + side of the coil to the ballast and it runs. But, I've currently got a intermittent misfire on two cylinders. Number 2 and 5. I found them by attaching the timing light plug wire connector to them and the light flash wasn't consistent. I've ordered new NGK plug wires, plugs, cap and rotor. I'm not sure of the cap and rotor though. I went ahead and assumed they're for an L28 though I could be wrong. How can I identify the difference between a L24 distributor and one for an L28? I'm guessing they're not identical. I know the 240Z had points and the 280Z didn't. As the car has a L28 from 2000 I'm assuming they also threw in a later distributor with the Pertronix. I pulled the plugs and they were really sooty. I cleaned them with a wire brush and that didn't really help. I'm wondering if it's my ignition or if I'm just running super rich. Both of those are on the most direct line from the carbs and I'm assuming would be getting a more fuel than the other cylinders to their sides. Brakes also need to be fully bled as I've installed the 8.5" booster upgrade from JDM-Car-Parts and new master cylinder as well. So it drives and stops and can be driven around a parking lot or paint shop if need be.

OK. Just got the last of the plugs in. I like the M16 x 1.5 low headed plugs to fill the inside ports of the intake when one has removed the water heating. Purchased them from Belmetric.

Well, Here I am, a year late, but better late than never! I paid $3,000.00 for my all original, 100,000 mile, 12/70, 1971 240Z in 2006.

Between Iran and Saudi Arabia

Cunifer! Found reference to it. Will see if it is something he'd make for me. If I do go this route opinions? From what i saw it was easy to work with, could be polished to a nice finish, but not sure how close that would be to "original cad type plated look".

Yes, with the parking lights dead, I still have the back feed

Hilarious, experienced all the same issues minus DBW. Really cool he documented the process, it's a journey. Congrats on the coil bracket.

You're welcome.

What year is your 280Z? Is it a bot also?

Good to see someone else rebuilding them. He did miss out one part on reassembly, there's a disc with 4 holes in it that goes over the shaft to restrict the flow of grease into the rubber boot that he deleted. Also the Nissan boot has a bleed nipple on it, they are still available.

Yeah, I saw this one on FB the other day.

I get a kick out of a big horn sound coming out of a weee Z car. 😎

The fit up looks good!

There is a point where the adjusters will cease to tighten. If they're working properly, they shouldn't be the cause of a sticky drum removal. There are other factors that could be the cause. IRL the drum shoe friction material isnt that thick and they don't see that much use so there really isn't that much re-adjustment needed over time. I daily drive my 260 and have changed shoes once in 14 years. After you have them set properly you won't notice much if any park brake handle lock position change.

Have a nice day, people!

Absolutely! Will take me a little while, but the quality and sound were great on the test run!

Yep, it's right 'chere: