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About geezer

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geezer last won the day on March 19 2015

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    Windsor Ontario Canada

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VeZeran (13/14)

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  1. After removing the tail light assemblies, you could adapt a few more fastening points using existing holes. Not a very good pic but it illustrates a very stable set up that I have used.
  2. Good to hear from you Jeff as well! Yeah, although Brian is a member here, he seldom posts. Give him a shout and he can fill you in on what he's been up to. I can say that he has solved his space problems and has even bigger plans for the future.
  3. Hi guys, gals! I'm still kicking as well and drop in every so often to see what's shakin in the Z world. Thanks for thinking of me Jeff, I am doing great but did downsize my car and motorcycle interests. I sold my Z and my massive Z parts stash and my Z library to our buddy Brian (think he has 5 Zs now). I still have my touring Harley, Model A coupe hotrod and a new minivan and that's enough to keep me busy. I know that our shared love for Zs, means that another could come along at any time though. I have often wondered what became of many former active members and appreciated being notified of this thread. Keep on enjoying the ride! Ron.
  4. Interesting question. I think the light is a visual aid as well as a failsafe in case the resistor suffers an open, ensuring the alternator field is energized. Likewise, if the light fails, the "mystery" resistor referred to would still energize the field winding. The diagram showing the resistor is probably not realistically illustrated but shown as an example of theory of operation. That leaves me thinking a fusible link is one means to provide the resistance value represented in the diagram. Just thinking out loud.
  5. I have a few sets of aftermarket, cheap fog lights that I put aside until I decide if I'll ever use them or not. I found a pair of the yellow glass lenses that fit the housings well but they are still a bit too yellow, compared to the originals. I think they still sell these fog lights at Princess Auto for not much $. There is a set with what appears to be different mounts shown in the Sports Options Catalog on the rally drop/split bumper. That's a different look. I'll dig up a pic.
  6. Funny stuff! My hats off to Alan and anyone else who attempts to educate the masses and I believe we are all the better for it. Nothing wrong with loving that velvet Elvis you have hanging on your wall but its still nice to get out to see the museum quality pieces.
  7. This is the problem that I mentioned before. There were many revisions made during the course of the early years of the S30 build. I'm not sure if all the changes made it into print in our manuals and if they did, as in the 1971 Revisions Manual, undoubtedly there will be variations from the previous printing. In a perfect world the harness part numbers would be tied to the relevant drawings with "from - to" VIN guides. That's why there are so many diagrams out there. Some of them are labeled as "early" or "late" or "basic" and that isn't taking into consideration the different models/markets that have other features, such as that "passing relay". Its long been a problem for some of the guys with the very early build 240Zs to find an appropriate diagram for their needs. I haven't proof read your entire diagram and I don't know if anyone could improve upon it or find any mistakes. Most would turn out to be just a case of the diagram not jiving with the particular harness because of changes made. Most of us probably have several versions, I know I do. I don't have my Z or any harnesses handy, but the rule of thumb for bullet connectors is, when unplugged the one that is still providing current should be "female" to prevent accidental shorting. Maybe, someone has a car handy, to check. I think the -20016 service manual has an explanation for the numbered connectors on that blower wiring loom. I'll see if I can find it. Edit: The only info for that particular drawing of the blower wiring loom is on page 27 of the '71 supplement manual. It wasn't in the earlier manual. 54 - Air conditioner power source - Blue 55 - Blower motor power source - Red 56 - Blower motor ground lead - Black 57 - Intermediate wire harness blower switch/motor
  8. Very nicely done! It will be suitable for framing and hanging in the man-cave where it will do the most good and look great!
  9. A few thoughts come to mind if an improved drawing was to be made. The accompanying pages Blue posted (post#33), as an example, would be great for reference, especially if the suggestion he already made, assigning ID codes to the connectors was included. They could be coded with a "F" or "M" as a prefix to the number assigned, on the wiring diagram to designate male or female as well. The wiring drawing itself could include other information such as wire gages, assigned circuit ID numbers, along with the proposed connector ID numbers. A color enhanced drawing does make color labelling on the wires somewhat redundant. The additional info sure would help to make it easier to troubleshoot problems with these cars and make the diagnoses something easily learned even if wiring isn't in your comfort zone. The examples, I posted (post#31) were just random pages taken from circuits that it was my job to proof read in 1994, two years lead time for our 1996 NS launch. They just show how much more info was included to aid in reference pages (and that was more than 20 years ago). Everything from connector info, pin out info, to circuit theory and explanations.
  10. Wow, beautiful work Captain! Temperature can play havoc with polyurethane finishes on wood. Years ago I learned the hard way that kitchen cabinets being sprayed in the garage as the temperature was on the rise, caused the air within the wood to expand and cause minute bubbles on the surface before completely drying. I since have learned to avoid this by spraying when the ambient temperature is on the decrease. The vacuum heat curing process is interesting and wouldn't surprise me in the least if it is found that the originals were done similarly. They did have a process that stood the test of time with the steering wheels as well making them very durable.
  11. Easy to get snow blind after looking at these circuits too long. Hey, you are doing great and we will all benefit from your efforts. Keep up the good work.
  12. The heated glass should get its ground from a door switch wire splice.
  13. Other markets/models had a button on the end of the turn signal stalk. When depressed the headlamps would momentarily flash, the same as our "optical horns" do today. The passing relay has 4 wires connected to it. The R/W (red with white stripe) is spliced into the headlight dimmer wire. The Black is a ground wire. The Red is spliced into the headlight 12V circuit via a fuse to the fusebox busbar. The B/Y (black with yellow stripe) makes a straight run to the passing switch, which is the white button on the end of the turn signal stalk, if so equipped.
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