The timing chain has the two-silver links and the top sprocket & the bottom of sprocket has little marks on them, and they need to line up, and I believe there's 42 links in between those two points. I did that & was 100 percent certain I was on top dead center # 1 and the crank wood drift key was pointing up; I assembled the new Sprockets guides and tensioner. One of the books I read said to rotate the motor two times making sure nothing's hitting which I rotated it multiple times got it back to top dead center, but I never did get my two-silver chain links to line up the way it did when I set it up originally.

My guess is that's normal, but my intuition is confusing my thought process at the moment. Anybody can help me out so I can sleep tonight that would be appreciated.

And the magic number is 11 rotations of the cam, or 22 rotations of the crank.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62752-bright-links-on-timing-chain-line-up-every-11-rotations/

Now get some sleep. 🙂

I really appreciate that thank you. I was certain I did everything right I just didn't get to number (11) eleven. I saw your 2019 post and your mathematical computations Cheers

The timing chain Guide bar has a slot for adjusting tension. Is there an ideal tension to Set the guide at?

I made mine as tight as I could on the slack side, the one that curves. I pushed the tensioner in all the way and put a zip-tye on it then pushed the curved guide as tight as I could and tightened it down.

For some reason I'm thinking there's a white plastic washer that goes on the tensioner between the housing and the pad but it's not visible in my picture. Maybe you can confirm that and don't forget the oil slinger that goes on the crank nose.

Yes, I set mine as tight as possible end of the slot. My slot is on the top side pivots from the bottom. My original bolt had a flat washer to cover the slot.

The oil Slinger is sitting in position same as your picture. I'm going to attempt to put the cover on today without removing the oil pan. Not sure if that's possible but I'm going to give it a whirl.

Both the original tensioner and the new one have rubber type washers between the tensioner pad and it's housing.